what’s cookin’
On Monday night, I attended the California Michelin Guide Ceremony at the Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay, in partnership with Visit California and San Francisco Peninsula. While the Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay, was an excellent host at their beautiful venue (we even got a sneak peek of the updated Navio restaurant, reopening August 16th), and thanks to everyone who was part of the luxe reception and post-event spread, the actual awards ceremony programming was an absolute debacle. Pretty un-ceremonial, actually.
I didn’t even get home until after 11pm, and I stayed up way too late writing today’s piece and transcribing quotes from attending chefs so you could do a drive-by of an unbelievable event oversight by the Michelin borg. Time for some new tires.
I posted some stories on @tablehopper from the awards, with pics of the reception (let’s hear it for tastes of three kinds of jamón Ibérico from Fermín, and the shrimp toastie from Hilda & Jesse, and a beguiling bite from Meteora) and some fun chef candids, too. To be clear, the night wasn’t all terrible, but it wasn’t right, either.
Since I’m short on time (and forever long on words), I’m cutting this intro letter short. Grab your bag of popcorn.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Hey, Michelin, You Had One Job!
Monday night’s Michelin Guide California Awards were a rollercoaster, and it wasn’t just about who won (or lost) their stars. The event started off on a high note, honoring the hard-working and talented Rachel Sillcocks of Hilda & Jesse for Outstanding Service, and then springing a one-star (their first!) on Hilda & Jesse co-owners Sillcocks and trans chef Kristina Liedags Compton. Double play!
At the end of the night, Liedags Compton commented to me, “It has been a rough two-and-a-half years, and this is a great morale-booster for the team. It’s nice to have all the hard work we put in recognized.” Sillcocks added: “We’ve been a well-kept secret for a very long time, and we’re just excited for our staff and the people who have supported us and come out for us and been there for us to be able to really see us (hopefully!) thrive and come into our own.” Cheers to that. It was my favorite moment of the night to see some shine for this magical queer restaurant (and to have emcee AJ Gibson make note of Compton’s “Protect trans youth” t-shirt while on stage, bravo).
Next up: we cheered for bar director Trevin Hutchins of Aphotic, who won the Exceptional Cocktails award—so well-deserved (and another wonderful moment of recognition for such a talented member of SF’s F&B industry and queer community). And then there was another local double play: John Wesley of Kiln won the Young Chef award, as well as earning one star for the new Hayes Valley restaurant. Ian Krupp of Anajak Thai in Sherman Oaks won the Sommelier award.
The program went on to announce the new one-star winners (congrats to 7 Adams, a satisfying moment of vindication for David Fisher and Serena Chow Fisher and the Hi Neighbor Group, who launched this restaurant in Lower Pac Heights after the Fishers made the difficult decision to walk away from their previous one-star Marlena, when their business partnership with the owner went south). New one-star winners in LA included Holbox, Meteora, R|O-Rebel Omakase, and Uka.
And then, suddenly, the new two-stars were announced (locally, Sons & Daughters gained a new étoile, congrats, as well as Aubergine in Carmel-by-the-Sea, and Vespertine in Culver City). But, hold on, what about all the one-star restaurants that retained their star? There was no mention, no acknowledgement, no video showing all the one-star restaurants on the screens. Sure, there are over 60 one-stars on that list, so maybe they couldn’t dedicate the time to welcome them all up individually, but Michelin certainly should have read the restaurant names and showed them on-screen. Isn’t that why we were all there? The speech from the President of Consorzio Franciacorta (no offense, I loved having them there as a sponsor) was granted more stage time than what it would have taken to say all the one-star names.
The confusion and awkwardness in the room was growing, with chefs and owners and media looking at each other and left to wonder if and when the restaurants with retaining stars would be acknowledged. When chefs are invited to the awards show, that’s always a great sign, but they have no idea what they’re receiving until their restaurant’s name is called. Some were nervous that they may have slipped a level (from two to one), while others who have multiple locations were left in the dark about which of their establishments had stars and which didn’t.
For example, Pim Techamuanvivit of Nari and Kin Khao had both of her horses in the race, but who knew if they each retained their star this year? Chef Peter Hemsley of Aphotic, who won a star and green star last year, had no way of confirming if both of those stars were still in place. (California is notably the home of 16 green-star restaurants, and every restaurant should at least be named—so much work goes into running a restaurant sustainably.)
The emcee then announced it was the grand finale, and called out the three-star restaurants, which were all restaurants that retained their three stars (Addison, Atelier Crenn, Benu, The French Laundry, Quince, SingleThread), but to add to the confusing format, no new additions were announced.
At that point, it was painfully clear that the one- and two-star (and green-star) restaurants with retaining stars were not going to be named at all. To add to the awkwardness, the emcee then tried to call “all the chefs!” to the stage multiple times, while everyone in the crowd was left looking at each other, asking, “Do we go up? Did we even win?” Some were furiously typing on their phones to look at the Michelin website and see if the winners were posted and where they placed on the list of macarons. (You can view the entire list of winners here.)
What an anticlimactic moment—it was offensive, actually—and can you imagine if you were a chef who flew up from LA, and your restaurant doesn’t even get acknowledged? What a waste of time. The last time I checked, this is an awards ceremony, first and foremost. I don’t know who programmed the run of show and wrote the script, but it was like they didn’t know what the Michelin Guide awards are (but they certainly knew to highlight sponsors multiple times—CapitalOne got more mentions than LA chef Jordan Kahn, who received one star for Meteora, and two stars and a green star for Vespertine, so, a lot). Who signed off on the programming? An intern?
Look, the Michelin Guide awards are already frustrating and deeply flawed and Eurocentric and elitist and miss the point every year, but there is no denying the massive impact they have on a restaurant’s business—even a Bib Gourmand can keep the lights on at a small, family-run place that is struggling. So how could Michelin act so utterly clueless about the importance of acknowledging all starred locations and chefs, especially while in the room of their peers (and their idols!) and media, let alone the failed livestream of the awards they managed to fuck up as well (always a problem for Michelin). How can such a bumbling company be the arbiters of so much power that judges this industry so mercilessly, and run their awards ceremony so thoughtlessly and disrespectfully?
It wasn’t until the cringe photo opp on stage was over that they started rolling a video of all the winning restaurant names on the stage side screens at probably the most chaotic moment in the room, when many guests didn’t even know to look at the screens. I had chefs standing next to me, breathlessly watching to see their restaurant names come up, and confirm whether they kept one or two stars. Unbelievable.
While I was happy to see chef Corey Lee receive three stars for Benu for the tenth consecutive year, such a feat, where was the commendation for chef Suzette Gresham, who was also celebrating ten years in a row of two stars for Acquerello? A massive oversight. It’s like the Academy Awards doing away with announcing the Best Supporting Actor category and leaving it for the credits on a screen at the end because they wanted the show to go faster.
I spoke to numerous chefs and industry folks about the debacle, but they all asked to remain anonymous for fear of pissing off the kingmakers.
“Just list the names, it’s that simple. There’s a lot of anxiety for us chefs, especially if you’re trying to go from two to three or you’re afraid of losing a star, you just want to see your name.”
“It’s wonderful to welcome new folks, but what about the ones who have been upholding the standard for who knows how long? That level of expertise and dedication should not go unrecognized.”
“As someone having a lot of friends in the restaurant world, when they didn’t announce the people who kept their stars, the first thing I did was go back and Google for the press release because I need to know who to comfort, and make sure how to handle all those emotions. This is something we work really hard for.”
On the way home from the unceremonious ceremony, one chef texted me, “Here, I have the title of your article for you: ‘Michelin should lose a star’…then maybe they’d understand what it’s like to live under standards that you uphold every day, while some other entity decides if you’re good enough. I’m embarrassed for all of us that not 10 seconds, not 10 minutes could not have been spent to at least read the list of those who maintain and elevate this profession daily and have done so for years.”
So, hey, Michelin Guide. If you’re going to run an awards ceremony, you should make that your priority, full stop. Show some respect for all these professionals who work so hard for your capricious approval, let alone the time it took to leave their restaurant (not everyone is closed on a Monday), travel, and spend their sole night off to attend the event. Maybe it’s time to go back to the phone calls: “Good morning, you have a star!”
Personally, my favorite restaurant experiences are usually not at a Michelin-starred place that most people can’t afford, but the restaurant world is comprised of many levels of restaurants, and there are some extremely hard-working, talented, inspiring, and hospitable people who are operating at a high level and deserve recognition for their long hours and pursuit of excellence (and mentorship).
I want to take a moment to recognize Restaurant Gary Danko, who lost their one star after 17 years (I remember that first year, when Michelin launched in the San Francisco Bay Area in 2006), but what a run! There were industry folks and fellow media in the room last night who commented that Danko was the first Michelin-starred restaurant they ever dined at, or the first fine-dining restaurant they visited when they came to San Francisco; many people have fond memories of dining at this elegant stalwart that has been with us since 1999, and I look forward to raising a glass in honor of their 25th anniversary.
At the end of the evening, one chef summed it up: “I think it’s a reminder that you can’t be doing it for this, whatever this is for you—it could be good for your PR, it could be good for hiring, it means something to the staff, but you can’t base your fulfillment in this career on what some outside company does. They like what they like. All you can do is what you do at the highest level you can and hope they like it.”
Of course, I can’t help but notice all the white and male privilege in the room, and for Michelin to take away the acknowledgement of many of the one-stars meant erasing the slim representation that is usually found in that group: the chefs of color, queer chefs, female chefs, and the talented scrappers who don’t have investors.
One chef commented to me, “It should also be more inclusive for everybody. Do we want this to continue? This is the only body that governs restaurants. Ask the other chefs, ‘Is this what we want?’”
Excellent question.
A New Omakase Experience Launches at The Bungalow Kitchen by Michael Mina
A sure-to-be welcome addition to the Tiburon dining scene is Secret Sushi Omakase, a new dining experience served upstairs at The Bungalow Kitchen by Michael Mina. Manning the counter is chef Yukinori Yama from Osaka, who has over 30 years of experience, and worked with the late Ken Tominaga at PABU Izakaya. He is thrilled to be serving 12 guests per night at the upstairs bar (and some tables), with seatings at 5pm, 6:30pm, and 8pm.
The tasting menu ($150) features seven courses (actually eight if you include the two waves of nigiri, seven pieces in all). The opening zensai course is pure decadence, with a poached and plump Kusshi oyster draped over silky salmon with truffle crema, and his notable ankimo (monkfish liver) from Hokkaido, which tasted so clean and didn’t have a trace of monkfish’s occasionally strong and muddy flavors, which can be so off-putting to some diners. Masterful!
The almost-translucent madai sashimi was served in a richly flavorful dashi ponzu (made with madai bones and head), with texture from some daikon, and smoked trout roe (we drank the last drops of dashi ponzu from our bowl, yes we did).
Chef Yama’s miso-broiled sea bass was a dream dish, so aromatic and flavorful with its ginger dashi—such a nourishing and soulful dish.
A fun twist was the cold chawanmushi, a traditional style which really highlighted the Hokkaido scallop, uni, shrimp, and ikura—we requested more of chef’s fantastic marinated wasabi, made with sake, mirin, and shio koji. However, the yakimono course of thin slices of Miyazaki A5 wagyu didn’t really speak to me—the fattiness and the miso were all a bit much.
Chef Yama’s nigiri was unique, with petite bundles of shari (sushi rice), and it was a treat to try unique selections like nodoguro (black sea perch) and some excellent katsuo (Japanese bonito) with a salted green onion topping that really wowed us. The sushi finale was a torotaku hand-roll (with chopped toro and shiso), which made me think about Ken for a flash—he loved his temaki! I just wish the nori was crisper and crackly, I always adore the contrast of textures with temaki.
Dessert was a trio of tender mochi (black sesame, matcha, and mango), a refreshing ending. I’m going to sound like such a San Franciscan for saying this, but what a great tasting menu for $150. It was delicious, abundant, well-sourced, and chef Yama is a delight.
A full sushi menu is being added to the brunch and dinner menus, so if you want to order some à la carte selections, you can add them to your meal in the dining room.
The one clunker of the night was the really hokey playlist, with Elvis and The Isley Brothers (Shout!) making me feel like I was listening to a DJ at someone’s 50th wedding anniversary. The space deserves a soundtrack that is a little sexier and more atmospheric.
But what a fun field trip out of the City—make an early reservation so you can enjoy a drink at the downstairs bar beforehand and take in the scene (and scenery—what a view). We spotted the flawless Yurie Pascarella and her husband Carl perched at the sushi bar, while D.A. Brooke Jenkins was dining at a nearby table, and chef Michael Mina hopped around the room and checked in on guests. It’s a fun night out. 5 Main Street, Tiburon.
A New Spot in the Mission Is Serving Japanese Sandos, Onigiri, Tea Drinks, and More
Bellota Sets Their Closing Date, Please Help Keep Beloved Cafe Open!
Some sad news from The Absinthe Group’s Spanish outpost, Bellota: they have announced that their closing date (after eight years in business) will be August 17th (the Chronicle first wrote about the impending closure here). Their farewell note on Instagram says, “After eight wonderful years at 888 Brannan St, we regret to announce the permanent closure of Bellota. Despite our best efforts, we haven’t been able to regain financial stability since the pandemic.
“Thank you, to our loyal patrons, dedicated employees, trusted purveyors, and talented musicians. Your support, hard work, and passion have been the heartbeat of our restaurant. As we reflect and plan for the future, we hope to try to open a new restaurant at 888 Brannan later this year. Stay tuned for updates.
“Join us for our last dinners. Our final day of Bellota service will be Saturday, August 17th. Our chef, Gonzalo Tecuaque, will have a several-week pop-up in our space after that to feature his favorite regional Mexican dishes. Thank you for being part of our journey. We hope to see you again.” Swing by for a final gin tonic and sherry on tap. 888 Brannan St. at 8th St.
I was dismayed to see a post from my beloved Beloved Cafe in the Mission that they are closing after seven years (since 2017)! Their post said: “Thank you, San Francisco, for 7 glorious years! A Final Farewell - Beloved Cafe will close it’s doors! It comes with a lot of sadness (and gratitude) in our hearts to announce that Beloved Cafe’s final day will be Sunday, August 18th.
“We want to send our deep appreciation to our community that has so generously and lovingly supported our mission to serve the highest-quality healing foods from the heart for the last 7+ years. A special shout out to those who have come in every day since our last call for support to help keep Beloved going (you know who you are 😉)! We want to encourage people to keep coming in and enjoying every last drop of Beloved—this helps us tremendously!”
But, fabulous plot twist: a follow-up post shares their managers want to take over Beloved Cafe and keep it going! Here’s more: “After we announced the closure of Beloved Cafe last week, our managers Ana and Jenny and their sister Yohana (a former manager of Beloved) expressed their desire to continue operating Beloved Cafe and carry on its mission as its new owners.
“We are deeply touched by their commitment to seeing the cafe forward and acknowledge the tremendous undertaking of being a restaurant owner-operator. Jenny and Ana are urgently asking for your support in raising money for early operating costs. Please read their message below... 🩷🙏”
A message from Jenny & Ana:
Dear Beloved Cafe Community,
We need your help to continue working at a place we’ve called our second home for the past seven years.
We were initially shocked and sad about the news of Beloved closing after so many happy years serving the community, but there’s a silver lining for us if we can get your help. The owners have given us the opportunity to continue Beloved Cafe as the new owners.
We are so excited about this opportunity!! But we need your help, or it will be lost. All donations will be used for start-up costs which include staffing, inventory, equipment and building maintenance, licenses and legal fees, along with many other items. Please consider donating today!
Yours truly,
Ana & Jennifer
Here’s the link to their GoFundMe—they have raised just over $10K of their $50K goal. Please help keep this truly unique Mission café going—there’s a reason it’s featured in the Mission video on my homepage by New Chapter Creative Studio! There’s no place like it in the City, and I adore their Golden Milk Latte powder, a staple in my pantry. Let’s show our love for Beloved! Open daily 9am–4pm. 3338 24th St. at Bartlett.
Restaurant Updates: Progress at Palmer’s Tavern, New Owner at Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack
Back in November, I shared an update on Palmer’s Tavern on Fillmore, which has been closed from a flooding incident in September, and here’s the latest from owner Sam Fechheimer: “After almost 11 months, we have a quick update. Permits approved, contracts signed with a contractor, and work has begun.” They are planning for a mid-winter opening, maybe January. He mentioned the dining room will “look as close to identical as possible, only new. But we will use all the same materials and so on to keep the feel. The city has required us and the building to be brought up to current code, so that is where the delay has come from.” I’ll keep you posted on their progress. 2298 Fillmore St. at Clay.
Broke-Ass Stuart reports Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack has changed hands after 23 years: founder Emmy Kaplan sold her longtime business to bartender Mike Irish, who’s going to bring back the midnight hour drink special on weekends, later hours, and service seven nights a week. Long live Emmy’s! 3230 Mission St. at 29th St.
the lush
Bay Area’s First Black-Owned Comedy Club Finds Its Home in SF
by Savannah Leone Bundy
This past weekend marked the grand opening of the Bay Area’s first Black-owned comedy club. Co-founded by comedian Stroy Moyd, The Function will feature nightly comedy shows (7pm and 8:45pm) and serve as a “much needed late-night destination” in the City. The team includes Johnny Hayes (known as Johnny Funcheap, the founder of Funcheap.com) and nightlife denizen Ludo Racinet (behind Tunnel Top and Bar Fluxus, and co-opened Madrone Art Bar and Bouche Restaurant).
In addition to laughs, the club is serving up twists on classic cocktails, with drinks like the Stroy Moyd—aka Negroni Please (mezcal, Campari, rosemary vermouth, orange bitters, smoky rosemary) and the Cancel Me Kicktail (vodka, coffee liqueur, hazelnut cold brew, cocoa cream). The Function’s daily happy hour (5pm–6pm) will offer $2–$3 off cocktails, $1 off draught beers, and The Hot Spot Special—an homage to the bar’s former incarnation— which includes a beer, a shot, and a Lotto scratcher ($11). There’s also an industry special that gets food and beverage workers an extra 10 percent off after 10pm.
Future plans for The Function include an expanded food menu, weekend day parties, burlesque nights, daytime coffee service, themed weeks (think “Summer of Rum” and “Mezcal vs Tequila”), and exciting kickbacks. Open Mon 5pm–2am, Tue–Fri 3pm–2am, Sat–Sun 5pm–2am. 1414 Market St. at 10th St.
