what’s cookin’
Oh hey, it’s me, a day later than usual. As you may know, I almost never go out on Monday nights since I need to stay home, focus, and crank this mutha of a column out every week. But when chef Dominique Crenn invites you to dinner so you can preview her new menu, well, I’m sure you understand why I opted for a table at Atelier Crenn instead of my desk on Monday night. Priorities! Deadline, you can wait! The menu featured quite the tour de force of creative flavors (uni and hibiscus!), with stunning presentations that not only honored West Coast seafood and peak season ingredients, but also paid homage to the artful beauty of nature. More soon from me on this evocative meal, which was my favorite menu from chef Crenn and her team yet. Merci, chef!
However, it was a bit disappointing to come home from dinner (at 11:30pm, LOL) and find out Bay Area restaurants didn’t bring home any awards at Monday’s James Beard Foundation ceremony, for the second year in a row. Eh! (Although Sonoma County farmer Mai Nguyen won a leadership award, and Mandalay received an America’s Classics Award earlier this year.) Congrats to the finalists—it’s still a blast to be there in the company of so many industry folks, and we all know Burdell is a shining star, with or without the medal. (Pssst, I see reservations open for Sunday/Father’s Day, it would be just the thing.)
I was so saddened to read Aaron Peskin’s tweet that beloved SF author and journalist David Talbot (who wrote the extraordinary Season of the Witch—which is mandatory SF reading—and the founder of Salon.com) recently suffered a near-fatal stroke, just when he and “his wife, Camille, were having to move out of their family home of over 30 years.” Please read more on their GoFundMe page about how you can (please) help with their extremely difficult situation, and they are also grateful for any leads on housing in SF. Thanks for looking out for our deeply dedicated chronicler of our city. Best wishes for his recovery.
Speaking of Supervisor Peskin, tonight/this Thursday is his 60th birthday Roast & Toast at Saint Joseph’s Art Society, and is sure to be entertaining: “Watch me get roasted by my esteemed panel of colleagues, friends, frenemies, and foes.” Brave man, I can only imagine who’s on the lineup! There will also be music from Bar Part Time resident DJ Skyler Redondo, The Chairman food truck, and some major people-watching. 6pm–9pm, roast begins at 6:45pm. Tickets/donations to his campaign here.
Another big birthday that’s coming up: I did a double take when I read that The EndUp is turning 50 this weekend! I know many of you fellow former T-dancers are on this list, so I wanted you to be sure you knew there’s a day party in Union Square this Saturday June 15th with OG house DJs, and that night, back at The EndUp, our fabulous Steve Fabus is playing a one-hour set at 11pm! (He was a resident at the club in 1980, read more in his bio here!) Yay, we’re (still) alive. Shake a tail feather and celebrate. Divas to the dance floor plllllease.
Tonight, I’m thrilled to see the father of Ethio-jazz, Mulatu Astatke, perform at The UC Theatre. He’s over 80 years old, and I can’t believe I get to see and hear him play. Legend! He’s also performing Thursday night, don’t miss it.
I hope to see you out!
~Marcia (rhymes with Garcia, in case you run into me)
the chatterbox
An Early Visit to Lunette, San Francisco’s Latest (and Only!) Cambodian Restaurant
Last week, I was excited to swing by the Ferry Building Marketplace to visit the just-opened Lunette for a quick lunch. Cambodian chef Nite Yun closed her Fruitvale restaurant Nyum Bai in 2022, and now SF is fortunate to have her latest project here, which is (shockingly) the sole Cambodian restaurant in the City.
Yun ended up in the Ferry Building thanks to fellow former La Cocina entrepreneur Reem Assil (who also has a stand in the FB)—she knew Nite had a dream to open a small noodle shop, and made the introduction to the Ferry Building folks. Yun laughs and says, “I’m following Reem! I followed her to Fruitvale, and now to the Ferry Building!” While Yun originally envisioned a 7-seat shop, she currently has about 30 seats. A friend helped her create an AI image of her intended look and design, which she presented to Studio BBA, who did an amazing job bringing her vision to life.
Walking up to her stand (the former Prather Ranch), it had so much more atmosphere than I was anticipating—it was designed to feel like a 1940’s Cambodian diner, with retro diner-style chairs in French’s mustard yellow, and a touch of director Wong Kar-wai-inspired visual drama from milk glass pendant lights illuminated with red bulbs so they look like lanterns, plus jaunty striped awnings, hanging ferns, and a stunning mural by artist Nak Bou, which reportedly took HOURS. Be sure to look closely at it to admire all the layers and textures.
You order with the cashier, and then, if you’re me, you grab a seat at the kitchen counter right next to Nite, who was busy expediting all the tickets pouring in while the kitchen line cranked out orders at the wok station. The menu is divided into the sections Eat Noodles (“nyum mee”) and Eat Rice (which it what “nyum bai” means in Khmer, as well as “let’s eat!”), listing seven street food dishes in all, each $21 (Nite didn’t want the price to influence people’s decisions on what to order—she just wants them to get the thing they want!). There are also some sides, salads, and a sweet.
While her iconic and bestselling K.T.P.P (kuy teav Phnom Penh) rice noodles with shrimp, pork three ways, crispy garlic, cilantro, and scallion in eight-hour pork broth was calling me for a reunion, I tried her new “student noodles” (lort cha), which are wok-fried pin noodles (the rice noodles are just slightly chubbier than the bean sprouts in the dish), with chives, and smoky, unctuous pieces of brisket from Tacos El Ultimo Baile (which is the business that moved into Nyum Bai’s former spot in Fruitvale). You can also have a vegan version featuring FB neighbor Far West Fungi mushrooms.
She told me lort cha is a dish you find all over Cambodia and is cooked on a plancha—it’s also a fast dish people make at home, sometimes with the addition of a sunny side egg. When she was first traveling in Cambodia, she said she ate it a bunch since it was all she could afford—it’s very popular among students, so that’s why she named the dish student noodles. It’s so scrumptious—especially since the smoke from the wok and the brisket really bring the flava—be sure to add a spritz of lime!
Another new dish is the bai cha fried chicken, which I was admiring for its high cronch factor on @lunette_cambodia. Nite shared her favorite dish is stir-fried ginger chicken (with its amazing rice that you throw in the pan after sautéing the chicken, and it integrates all the lingering ginger flavor). Unfortunately, it was going to take too long to make it for the busy lunch crowd, so she made a fried chicken version of the dish instead.
She told me the cutlet “sleeps” for 24 hours in a brine with fish sauce, chile flake, sugar, water, and a sprinkle of MSG before it’s fried in rice flour, which is awesome news for gluten-free folks. The flavorful ginger-scallion rice was the first thing I noticed, and then I dipped the chicken in the accompanying chile sauce, and was losing my mind trying to figure out everything in this downright seductive sauce. Nite said her sous chef Jakob Polaco came up with it, using charred California chile and scallions, plus toasted rice, lime, and palm sugar syrup. It’s citrusy and smoky and I hope they decide to sell it someday! I also loved the pastel pink and powder blue melamine oval plates everything came out on, so retro.
They’re also making KFC (Khmer Fried Chicken) with salt and kampot pepper ($16 for an appetizer-sized dish), and shaking beef (lok lak) is coming soon, as well as a grab-and-go version of the prahok kiss (minced pork dip).
Yun has been happy with the warm reception for Lunette, with people telling her they have been waiting for it to open ever since the project was first announced. Customers have missed her K.T.P.P. soup (they have been going through 80+ quarts of broth every day), and since her personal goal has been to have people crave Cambodian food, she is quite pleased to see it really happening. From being born in a refugee camp in Thailand when her parents escaped the Khmer Rouge regime and genocide in Cambodia, to growing up in Stockton in a Cambodian American community; and later following her curiosity and the call to learn more about, cook, and preserve Khmer culinary history and her family dishes, to now opening Lunette in one of San Francisco’s most iconic culinary destinations… Yes, it’s quite inspiring to see this self-taught chef and tenacious entrepreneur begin another chapter of her journey where she can continue to share the stories behind each dish and ingredient with us, while providing a place for the Cambodian community to see and enjoy their cuisine being represented so lovingly and deliciously. Brava, Nite!
You can dine in (there’s wine, beer, and sake) or do takeout. Hours for now are Wed–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm, and Sun 11:30am–6:30pm. 1 Ferry Plaza, Ste. 33.
New Openings Include Galinette and Mama’s Luncheonette, and Andytown Is Coming to the Mission
Just last month, I wrote about Galinette, the “beach bistro” opening in the former Hotline in the Outer Sunset from the team behind Bouche on Bush (chef Jeremy Blaringhem and Julie Fulton, and now with longtime friend Oriane Paul). Guess what? They’re soft opening this week! Such a fast turnaround! They opened today (Wednesday) for lunch (9:30am–3pm), and Friday will be open for dinner, walk-in only.
Above is a first look at the menu, which has a delectable apéro section with duck confit croquettes and brandade and hand-cut steak tartare, while the sandwich lineup includes jambon beurre ($15) and “le” burger with caramelized onion, triple cream brie, bacon, aioli, and green peppercorn ($21). I’m always happy to see a Lyonnaise salad on a menu ($16), a personal fave. Their signature dish is bourride, (A.K.A. “the fake bouillabaisse”) with catch of the day, shellfish, potato, fennel, saffron, and rouille ($35). Entrées feature bistro classics like P.E.I. mussels marinière ($21), roasted chicken ($23/$33), and hanger steak frites ($25), all for such neighborhood-friendly prices.
In the mornings, there will be croissants and coffee and espresso drink service. Since their ABC license is still pending, the first week will be BYOB until they can let their Frenchie wines pour freely!
There’s a large communal table they put in, and have a no phone policy: “Yeahhhh let’s break bread, meet, and talk to each other.” It’s a lovely concept, let’s see how it goes when you tell someone (like me, for instance, ha-ha) that you can’t take pictures of your dinner. But I love it, talk to your fellow diners! There’s a fab mural inside by Carlotta_Ink, and it sounds like another is coming outside. Moving forward, hours will be Mon–Fri 9.30am–9pm and Sat–Sun 9:30am–11pm. 3554–3560 Taraval St. at 46th Ave.
Coming soon: a tablehopper tipster wrote in to share that it looks like Andytown is opening a new location in the Mission at Harrison and 17th, inside/next to Gus’s Market (the café is being renovated). I reached out for details, so stand by for updates on when the snowy plover will be buzzing around the neighborhood. (They’re hiring, too.)
Kim Alter Debuts NightJar, a Private Event Space That’s Also a New Nest for Her HOPR-Inspired Pop-Up, PrimeBird
Chef-owner Kim Alter of Nightbird and The Linden Room continues to prove how clever and creative she is as she expands her Hayes Valley nest. Opening tonight is NightJar, a new 10-seat space that adjoins the restaurant (with a pass-through window from the kitchen), where she will be hosting her new pop-up series, PrimeBird, as well as using the space for events and private dining groups. Alter says, “We’re also looking forward to welcoming guest chefs, winemakers, music partners, unique pop-ups, and hosting private events.” The space was formerly a flower shop, and designer and decorative painter Caroline Lizarraga—who is behind the moody, gold-dripped walls inside Nightbird—has custom designed and painted the walls here as well.
The PrimeBird pop-up (launching tonight!) is inspired by Kim’s love for House of Prime Rib, and her three-course menu ($80) features green garlic Goddess salad; Flannery Beef prime rib (wet aged), served with three sauces: smoked wagyu béarnaise, housemade A.1., and herbed horsey (horseradish) cream, accompanied with creamed spinach, truffled Yorkshire pudding with aged cheddar sauce, and mini loaded baked potato. DREAM DINNER. Dessert will be whipped cheesecake on graham cracker crust with strawberry and rhubarb.
Partner, general manager, and beverage director Ron Boyd has assembled a selection of martinis and Manhattans, as well as wines by the glass to accompany the menu. The pop-up will run for three months or so, when Alter will launch a new theme. NightJar is open Tue–Thu 5pm–8pm (when the space isn’t hosting other pop-ups or private events). Reserve here. 334 Gough St. at Linden.
Noosh on Fillmore Has Been Closed for Six Weeks
Brunch Launches at Gola, Aperitiviamo at 54 Mint, and a New Menu and Chef at Red Window
This one is for my fellow shakshuka lovers: Gola, the Tunisian restaurant and bar on Valencia in the Mission, has launched weekend brunch service (Sat–Sun 12pm–3pm). The menu includes four kinds of shakshuka, including the memorable one I tasted at a preview meal before the restaurant opened, made with housemade merguez (lamb and beef sausage), along with sweet peppers and potatoes in a spiced tomato sauce. (It’s fantastic.) Chef-owner Rafik Bouzidi is also making four kinds of Benedicts, plus brunchy beverages, and I imagine serving up some exotic beats as well. Hop on over. 819 Valencia St. at 19th St.
Aperitivo weather is here, and 54 Mint has one of my favorite patios to enjoy a spritz and bites (somehow it doesn’t get totally pummeled with the wind). They just launched Aperitiviamo, every Thursday from 5pm–7pm. For $25, you’ll enjoy complimentary happy hour bites, beverages, and live music on the patio (this Thursday June 13th is Javi Jimenez & Ross Howe, and Parlor Tricks is playing June 20th). Reserve your outdoor table here. 16 Mint Plaza.
Some changes at Red Window in North Beach: after three years, chef Adam Rosenblum has moved on, and chef Milenko Scepanovic is now running the kitchen. The half-Chilean, half-Croatian chef has worked in eight countries over his career, and while Red Window was focused on Spanish tapas, the new concept is “Bistronomy in the Bay.” Scepanovic will be adding a broader European style to the menu (including dishes like porcini risotto), as well as a Latin component, and a focus on seafood. Fret not, the epic patatas bravas will not be going anywhere, and talented beverage consultant Elmer Mejicanos is staying on, so you can still enjoy his creative cocktails and spritzes in their sunny parklet with live music. The new menu launches Saturday June 15th during the North Beach Festival.
There will also be some updates to the offering from Little Red Window, just around the corner. You’ll want to swing by this Thursday June 13th, starting at 5pm, when they’ll be giving away free empanadas to the first 100 people in line (one per person) who follow @littleredwindowsf on Instagram. 500 Columbus Ave. at Stockton.
A Treat Fit for a Kouign
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Next Thursday June 20th is Kouign-Amman Day, and there’s going to be an epic collaboration between pastry chef and K-A king Brian Wood (Starter Bakery) and Tyler Florence (Miller & Lux Provisions) to celebrate: behold, the kouign-amman ice cream sandwich. Offered with traditional or churro kouign-ammans, the crossover confection will be available exclusively at Miller & Lux Provisions in Union Square on the 20th. They’re $9.50 each, and will be available while supplies last. 225 Stockton St. at Geary.
the socialite
The 70th Annual North Beach Festival Returns This Weekend (Both Days!)
by Savannah Leone Bundy
This weekend marks the 70th anniversary of the annual North Beach Festival. This year’s celebration spans 11 blocks and boasts over 200 vendors—including North Beach Cantina, Curry Up Now, Wooly Pig, Cassava (who’s offering a reprise of their famous fried chicken sandwich, served on steamed buns this time around), and Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. The party goes from 11am–7pm—and with even more food options, live music, performances by Club Fugazi acrobats, beer gardens, wine tasting, interactive art, and kid- and pet-friendly activities—is sure to have something for everyone. Saturday June 15th and Sunday June 16th. 11am–7pm. Columbus and Grant Avenues, North Beach.
Some More Father’s Day Ideas
Father’s Day is Sunday June 16th, and here are a few special menus and events for you to consider to celebrate Pops, Gramps, or any father figures in your life.
Does Dad like wearing cologne? My grandfather used to call it “foo foo” as he’d slap it on and it still makes me laugh when I think of it. This Saturday June 15th, 1 Hotel San Francisco is hosting a Craft Your Own Cologne Workshop, featuring Bay Area-based brand, Juniper Ridge, on Terrene’s patio. This hands-on workshop will guide you through the process of blending all-natural scents so you can craft your own custom cologne for your dad (or yourself) just in time for Father’s Day. 2pm–4pm. $40. 8 Mission St. at Embarcadero.
I am absolutely smitten with Lord Stanley’s Father’s Day menu for this Sunday for $90, plus supplements ($145 with wine pairing). It’s total 𝘊𝘢𝘭𝘪𝘧𝘰𝘳𝘯𝘪𝘢𝘯 𝘉𝘪𝘴𝘵𝘳𝘰 𝘥𝘦 𝘓𝘶𝘹𝘦, and you can reserve here. 2065 Polk St. at Broadway.
Have you been wanting to check out Chotto Matte San Francisco, the splashy Japanese-Peruvian rooftop restaurant in Union Square? If Dad is a bit of a party dad or likes some flash and pizazz, you should know they’re offering a BBQ feast for $80. The prix-fixe menu includes dishes like bluefin tuna tostada (premium tuna, wasabi, jalapeño, coriander cress), wagyu spring roll (caramelized plantain, black bean mole), Father’s Day BBQ feast (smoked lamb, rib eye batan salsa, chicken miso skewers, BBQ wings kara-age, grilled corn, huacatay broccoli), and amarena cherry ice cream martini (matcha, crispy raspberries) for dessert. Bookings available online. 50 O’Farrell St. at Stockton.
This Sunday, Pizzeria Delfina is serving their buttermilk-brined fried chicken for pickup and dine-in (sorry, no delivery). You get a plate (or a box if you’re doing take out) with a juicy leg, thigh, and wing topped with a shower of fried herbs, served with PD Calabrian chile oil. $22. Available at Pizzeria Delfina Pacific Heights, Palo Alto, and Burlingame.
And just to throw out a few more quick ideas: I’d look for a table at...
The SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival Is Back in August with a Bang!
by Savannah Leone Bundy
13-time world pizza champion Tony Gemignani (of Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, and numerous other restaurants and North Beach businesses) is bringing back the San Francisco Pizza, Bagel & Beer Festival for its second year on Saturday August 17th. In celebration of the Holy Trinity of carbohydrates, dozens upon dozens of local pizzerias, bagelries, and breweries will come together to bring you a delicious afternoon of food, fun, and community.
Pizza titans like Del Popolo, Flour + Water, Il Casaro, A16, Little Original Joe’s, Capo’s, Hella Pie, Montesacro, and PizzaHacker will be serving up pies, while women in pizza will have a strong showing with Laura Meyer of Pizzeria da Laura, Leah Scurto of PizzaLeah, Mel Fucilla of Peace of Pizza, Leith Leizer Ludlow of Psychic Pie, Cristina Aceves Smith of State of Mind Pizza, and Kira Zabrowski of Much Ado About Pizza. There will be visiting pizzerias, like Squared Up Pizza (Arizona), and makers, like O.G. Papa Fern (Brooklyn, NY).
Bagel-makers like BagelMacher, Dago Bagel, The Laundromat, Kaz Bagels, Boichik Bagels, and Wise Sons Jewish Deli will share samples of their favorite offerings. Check out the impressive list of all the participants here.
The festival will also feature SF’s first annual Ooni Pizza Championship, where pizza enthusiasts and home chefs can compete in a pizza-making contest moderated by Pizzaiolo’s Eidref Laxa.
Tickets are available for purchase here on a tiered basis. VIP tickets ($275/person) include pizza and bagel tastings, unlimited beer tickets, one-hour early entry, access to a private lounge and open bar at the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club, charcuterie board bites from Columbus Craft Meats, and a gift bag of Italian specialties; general admission tickets ($80/person, 21+) get you pizza and bagel tastings, and 4 beer tickets; and youth tickets ($60/person, 13+; $30/person, 5–12; free for 5 and under) include pizza and bagel tastings. Saturday August 17th. 12pm–4pm. Stockton and Filbert Streets, North Beach.
