This week’s tablehopper: storied. (free)

what’s cookin’

Why, hello there. Is your head still attached to your body? The news cycle this past week initially gave me whiplash, but now I’m head bangin’. 🤘 Let’s rock (and save democracy and bodily autonomy). Go Kamala!

More banging on Sunday: I had my car door slam onto my foot, 10 of 10 do not recommend! I was on my way to my dear friend’s 50th birthday party, and was parked on my classically steep SF hill. As I was trying to get into my car with my voluminous dress, the door suddenly stopped holding and slammed onto my foot. No you did-uhnt! Fuck you, gravity!

Thank goddess I didn’t break anything, and ice packs, elevation, and an ACE bandage have each served their purpose remarkably well for the past 48 hours. It’s looking good, so we won’t have to amputate. (I kid!) But on top of last week’s personal shituation, I really didn’t need to hurt my paw as well. Rude! A friend observed it’s likely why it happened—I’ve been stressed and wasn’t paying attention. True dat. Breathe, Marcia!

But in the super-fun department, I gotta tell you guys, the Rolling Stones were fricking epic last week! I did not expect to be so completely blown away! Talk about true rock stars. From the next-level stage production to the iconic setlist, plus their insanely cool wardrobe (show us how to look at 80, thank you!), high-octane energy, fellow talented musicians and singers on stage, and really fabulous sound, it was a SHOW. We had GA rear floor tickets (it was at Levi’s Stadium), but I kept bouncing around the edges of the front seating (so sneakyyyy 😎) and captured some great footage (so cool with the almost-full moon above the stage)! I’ll be posting my video recap soon!

It was a joy to run into some rad tablehopper readers on Saturday at Tsar Nicoulai’s 40th anniversary party at the Ferry Building, thanks for saying hi. I loved meeting the original founders, Mats and Daphne Engstrom, who had a vision of starting a sustainable caviar farm in Sacramento and launched Tsar Nicoulai in 1984. So many SF restaurants feature their excellent caviar, and provided tasty bites at the event. From the Aphotic martini to endless flutes of Domaine Carneros 2019 Estate Brut Cuvée, caviar bumps abounded! 

When the party wrapped up, I brought my +1 birthday boy to the bar at Boulevard, where we celebrated him officially turning 50 with a sunroot and Brillat-Savarin soufflé topped with Australian winter truffles and a candle, you can’t beat that! His mother even called right at his birth time. Awwww. (Thank you to the Boulevard team for making the moment so special!)

They also have a brilliant cherry, watermelon, and Treviso salad on the menu—peak summer flavor—and such a clever spin on the classic SF chowder bread bowl: how about escargots with garlic and basil butter, artichoke, and Ibérico ham tucked in a baby rustic roll? Yes, please. There’s nothing like sitting at the new and gorg blue onyx bar at Boulevard, it was so perfect for an impromptu celebratory moment. (And you saw my post about their new Thursday night soft-shell crab dinner, yes?)

One more tasty treat...

Wishing you a sweet week!

XO
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Longtime Owners of Tommaso’s in North Beach Are Retiring

Mannaggia, it’s happening. Back in April, SF Standard announced the news that the Crotti family—behind the legendary and legacy business Tommaso’s Ristorante Italiano in North Beach—was looking to retire and pass the torch to the right buyer. Well, that bittersweet moment has arrived—I was sorry to see this post on Monday from the Crotti family (Carmen, Agostino, and Anna Crotti) confirming that their last night of running the restaurant will be December 15th, 2024. They certainly deserve their hard-earned retirement—they have owned the restaurant for 51 years (since 1973!) and over three generations. At least we have time to go back in and enjoy their coo-coo clams!

According to SFGATE: “Though details are slim, Carmen [Crotti] told SFGATE via email that nothing will change under the new ownership, including the restaurant’s menu, name and staff — many of whom have worked at the restaurant for decades.”

The Crottis didn’t mention who the buyer is (yet), but I’m so grateful that whoever they are, they’ll be keeping Tommaso’s going, so that’s wonderful news (and they have almost five months for a careful hand-off). But who knows how much they’ll preserve the unique vintage interior (I adore the carved wood booths and murals of the Bay of Naples). Don’t touch a thing! The memorabilia on the walls is really personal—from the Coppola movie posters to the family pictures and past articles—so I imagine the Crotti family will be taking some of it with them. 

One thing that obviously will remain in place is the historic brick pizza oven—when the Cantalupo family first opened Lupo’s Famous Pizzeria and Neapolitan Restaurant in this location in 1935, it was the first wood-fired pizza oven in the neighborhood, and reportedly the first on the West Coast! (Check out today’s archivist for a look at the vintage Lupo’s menu I have in my collection and some amazing restaurant history.) They still use oakwood to fire the oven today. 

Be sure to visit while you can and soak in all the vintage patina and truly authentic, old-school vibes of this deeply rooted Italian family restaurant. Enjoy some eggplant or chicken Parmigiana (or lasagna!), veal rollettini, or make it a pizza night (the calzone imbottito is another specialty of the house). Save room for a freshly filled-to-order cannolo. It’s such a North Beach time capsule. Even though the restaurant will thankfully stay open, it’s certainly the end of an era. Cent’anni! 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

A New Greek Restaurant Is Opening Downtown This Week: The Parthenon

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been checking in with owner Cem Bulutoglu of Gyros & Tzatziki in the Mission about his new downtown project, and he’s planning to open The Parthenon (Mediterranean Wine Bar & Mezes) by the weekend! His new restaurant is opening in the former Hogwash on Sutter, and his designer (Burcin Kubra) and contractor (Flower Construction Company) have given the space a sleek update, with tall and curved mirrors, punchy green tile behind the back bar, a textured ceiling, and custom light features. (You can have a sneak peek of the space on their Instagram account.) The restaurant has room for 40, with a variety of seating options, from the banquettes and tables in the front, to seats at the bar and at high-top tables in the back. 

While Bulutoglu (and one of the chefs) are Turkish, he notes all the crossover between Turkish and Greek cooking: “Back in history, it was all one country at one time!” The Mediterranean menu will include some Californian healthy influences and a number of vegetable dishes, and will feature top sirloin souvlaki (or kebab, in Turkey) and other shared dishes, like fried zucchini cakes (kolokithokeftethes) and dolmathes, Turkish manti (beef dumplings), and a number of seafood dishes, including mixed seafood pasta with ouzo, and iron skillet mussels with retsina. Bulutoglu mentions the pork chop with fig sauce is really tasty, as well as the lamb chops with fries. 

Since his restaurant is located near a bunch of hotels and Union Square, Bulutoglu imagines his diners from out of town will be keen on ordering California wines, but he will include a few Greek selections as well. There will also be wine flights, wine-based cocktails, and beer.

The Parthenon will be open for lunch and dinner daily: 11am–3pm and 4:30pm–10pm to start. Check @theparthenon_sf to confirm the opening date this week. 582 Sutter St. at Mason.

Manora’s Thai Cuisine in SoMa Would Love to See You (and Make It to Their 38th Year in Business)

Another SF old-timer and family-run restaurant you should visit soon: Manora’s Thai Cuisine in SoMa has been open on the corner of Folsom and 12th Street for 37 years, but Broke-Ass Stuart reports owner Manora Srisopa is having a tough time keeping the business going of late (for a variety of reasons). Manora’s (with their gleaming neon sign) was such a hotspot in the 90s—I loved going there before a night of bar- and club-hopping in SoMa. It was also a great spot for an affordable date because it over-delivered on everything: a charming interior, friendly staff, and delicious Thai food. 

I was happy to see this piece in SFGATE on Monday that mentions Manora’s is where Vice President Kamala Harris had a bonding lunch with Mayor London Breed over 20 years ago. (Good timing for the restaurant to get some more visibility when they really need it.)

Remember, you gotta eat it to save it. Go visit for lunch or dinner! Lunch Mon–Fri 11am–2pm, dinner Tue–Thu 5:30pm–8:30pm and Fri–Sat 5:30pm–8:45pm. 1600 Folsom St. at 12th St.

A Note from the Hopper

You have one more week to take advantage of the tablehopper summer subscription sale! From now through July 31st, enjoy 25 percent off an annual subscription (normally $149/year). And: you get to lock in the $111.75 annual rate forever! Hubba! 🤘 Live your best SF life for just $9.31/month. Thank you for supporting my reporting!

Previews, Pop-Ups, and a Paella Party!

Back in a May newsletter, I mentioned Stephen Wade and his partner, Edwin Stoodley (alums from Union Square Hospitality Group, Sightglass, and Philz) are opening The Nosh Box SF in the former Sluts wine bar (previously Terroir) in SoMa-West, the neighborhood that is home to the Leather & LGBTQ Cultural District and nightlife district. They have been hard at work (hello, sweat equity) renovating the space and getting ready to open their coffee, wine, and snack bar (hopefully) in August.

Since this weekend is the Dore Alley/Up Your Alley Street Fair (on Sunday July 28th), the gents are offering a sneak peek (they want to “bring a soft touch to this hard hitting weekend”)! They’ll have some liquid refreshments (including some fun sangiovese sparkles) and noshes like tomato pie slices, blackberry jam scones, and some surprises to keep fair-goers powered through the day. Some minor construction dust will still be happening, but it’s a chance for folks to get a look and taste of this upcoming project. Sneak peek: Sunday 9am–3pm. 

In order to get over the finish line, they also launched a GoFundMe (with some nice perks!) so they can overcome a few unexpected construction hurdles and costs. Help this queer-owned business get over some final humps, so to speak. 1116 Folsom St. at 7th St.

Do you recall my recent tableshopper piece about the brilliantly versatile Yuzukararin yuzu and chile condiment at Bernal Cutlery? This Saturday July 27th, they’re hosting a pop-up with Milk Cloud Bakery, featuring a one-time/exclusive sando to celebrate the rad ingredient (which is magic on summer vegetables): a corn Yuzukararin sandwich (Milk Cloud’s famous shokupan stuffed with sweet summer corn seasoned with the Yuzukararin).

Also on the menu:

11am until sold out. (And pick up a jar of Yuzukararin to bring home.) 766 Valencia St. at 19th St.

How does a Sunday, Mediterranean-vibed day party on the rooftop of The San Francisco Proper hotel with paella and rosé sound? Yeah, fun! Book your reservation and head upstairs to Charmaine’s for unlimited paella cooked over fire ($30 per person, excluding tax/fees, two-hour duration), and you can enjoy glasses of rosé from their wine list to go with it (not included in the price). Sundays, reservations from 11am–2:30pm. 45 McAllister St. at Leavenworth.

Just a quick note: do you remember the $5 breakfast sandwich deal at Brenda’s Meat & Three I wrote about a couple weeks ago? Well, Brenda’s French Soul Food on Polk just got in on the action as well. You can come by Mon–Fri 8am–11am for five kinds of $5 breakfast sandwiches, and sides for $1.99 (with purchase of a sandwich). 652 Polk St. at Eddy.

Become an 18 Reasons Member in July and Get 25 Percent Off!

tablehopper isn’t the only one running a membership special this month! Until the end of July, 18 Reasons is offering individual memberships for $75 instead of $100 for a year, a 25 percent discount. Your membership helps support their free programming, while enjoying discounts on cooking classes and great events at 18 Reasons! 

You can apply your member discount on the very last ticket to the cider dinner on July 31st with Bi-Rite Market’s Sam Mogannam and Oregon cider producer Son of Man. (They are collaborating on a limited edition Basque-style cider that will be available at Bi-Rite Market stores.)

the lush

The Red Tail to Open Second Location Next Month

by Savannah Leone Bundy

The Red Tail—a craft beer and wine bar of Inner Sunset renown—is set to open a new Mid-Market location (in partnership with Market Street Arts) in the former Waystone this August. Red Tail Theater District will be an offshoot of the original, pouring hand-selected wines and local craft beers, while focusing on building community and fostering connection on their sidewalk patio. Hours will be Thu–Sat 4pm–11pm. 992 Market St. at 6th St.

the socialite

Get Your Early-Bird Ticket Now to Mr. Gumbo’s Annual Seafood Boil

by Savannah Leone Bundy

Next month, Dontaye Ball—aka Mr. Gumbo of Gumbo Social in Bayview—is hosting his fourth annual All-You-Can-Eat Seafood Boil and Birthday Bash at the Outer Sunset Farmer’s Market & Mercantile on Sunday August 25th. Early-bird tickets are available from now until July 31st for $29.99/person—regular price will be $45.99/person.

Each guest will receive a vessel to fill (and refill!) with all the classic Cajun boil they can handle (seasoned shrimp, smoked sausage, potatoes, and corn), along with live music and good vibes in the outdoor setting. Larger groups can reserve a table ($400) for up to eight people. Group and individual tickets are available here. Sunday August 25th. 12pm–2pm. 1994 37th Ave. at Ortega. 

the archivist

With this week’s news about the longtime owners of Tommaso’s Ristorante Italiano retiring and selling the business, it’s time to look at the space’s original tenant: Lupo’s Famous Pizzeria and Neapolitan Restaurant.