This week’s tablehopper: start me up.

what’s cookin’

Hi frenz. This week’s newsletter is going out a day later than usual for supporting subscribers, and I’m just sending the same version to everyone all at once in an attempt to keep things simple, short, and sweet this week. I’ve been dealing with some personal matters over the past few days, and let’s just say they took precedence over everything. (I’m okay, to be clear—but I’m just having to deal with some unexpected and serious shizz right now.) It’ll be great to blow off some steam tonight at the Rolling Stones concert, I’m ready to be properly distracted. Gimme shelter.

Since it’s finally starting to feel like SF summer, I want to help elevate the vibes with a big tablehopper summer subscription sale! I haven’t run an offer on an annual subscription for a while, so it’s time for me to put an umbrella in your glass and make it feel like happy hour.🍹 

You’ll be living your best SF life on the other side of the paywall, with complete stories, insider hopper tips and faves, access to the weekly archivist section (featuring fabulous vintage SF ephemera!), and I’ve been working on some special subscriber-only content for you! (Hint: 🤌) 

Each and every subscription makes such a huge difference over here, truly. Thank you to all of you for supporting my work (and the folks who help research and write for tablehopper!). Your annual subscription provides much-needed stability for tablehopper to continue as an uplifting voice of SF and help promote so many local and small businesses and events and organizations and rad people. I deeply appreciate your generous help in securing a bright future for this independent and member-supported publication, 18 years and counting. MWAH. 💋

In other news, I wanted to share this wonderful piece in SFGATE about the rich history and legacy of Celia’s Mexican restaurants. What an amazingly generous and big-hearted woman she was. Enjoy reading it and be inspired by her magnanimity. 

It has already been such an intense time in the news, mamma mia, and sadly, the food world has been devastated with the horrific news of chef Naomi Pomeroy’s unexpected death on Saturday in a tubing accident. Huge condolences to everyone who knew, loved, and admired this singular, talented, and powerful force of a woman, mother, chef, and change-maker, a pillar and pioneer of Portland’s culinary scene.

Sigh. Tough stuff. With everything going on in the world, I know many of us are just so damn tired. I sure am. It’s hard to slow down, but deep down, we know we need to rest. Hey, if you’re doing your best, that’s really all you can do. And perhaps you need to give yourself permission to do less than your best (you have my blessing!). Downshift a little. And go have some fun. (Don’t forget fun, ever.)

I’m sending hugs (I love how they work both ways). 

XO
~Marcia (rhymes with Garcia)

the chatterbox

The Sorrel Team Is Opening a New Project in the Former Slanted Door at the Ferry Building

A few weeks ago, I reached out to chef-owner Alex Hong of Sorrel in Presidio Heights to follow up about a few rumors I heard that he was taking over the Slanted Door space at the Ferry Building Marketplace. Since the lease wasn’t final yet, he couldn’t say anything definitive. But the paperwork is now final and he has a 15-year lease in hand—along with Sorrel director of operations Joel Wilkerson—to open a new concept in Suite 5. 

According to the release: “The new yet-to-be-named concept will be a large format, full service restaurant offering a seasonal ingredient menu rooted in the bounty of the California coastline. It will feature an open kitchen, seated bar, floor to ceiling windows and outdoor seating with stunning Bay Bridge views. A connected bakery focused on laminated pastries will open to the nave inside the Ferry Building. It is expected to open in early 2025.” So, that’s all we know for now.

Hong’s background includes Quince, Jean-Georges in New York, and Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado, while Wilkerson was the GM and led the wine program at Atelier Crenn, was a GM at Benu, and director of operations at Gabriela Camara’s CALA, before becoming director of operations at Sorrel in 2021. Since opening in 2018, Sorrel has maintained its Michelin one-star status each year. 

The duo is excited to become part of the historical landmark and “thrilled to bring a fresh, approachable dining experience and we can’t wait to share our new concepts with the public seven days a week.” Offering dinner service will help activate the Ferry Building in the evenings. Stand by for more in coming months.

Presidio Trust Announces New Food Hall and Market at Presidio Tunnel Tops

by Savannah Leone Bundy

Presidio Tunnel Tops is getting an all-day food, beverage, and retail destination. Though an official date has yet to be determined, The Mess Hall plans to open in 2025 with a vast array of fast-casual, made-to-order, grab-and-go food options, plus a café, and a full-service bar. Visitors will be able to enjoy meals at varying price points in the food hall while taking in the incredible Presidio views—and have the option to pick up picnic essentials at the Mess Hall’s provisions market for the ultimate Cute Day Outside experience.

The food and beverage curation comes from the minds of chef Peter Serpico (MOMOFUKU and STARR) and barman Zach Negin (owner of Tabula Rasa Bar and Shopand Silverlake Lounge in LA, and partner in SF’s Dolores Deluxe), who are working with Rob Gaon (Bay Area resident and a principal of The Mess Hall Group) and director of operations Nate Israel (concept developer and brand management specialist), who aim to provide meticulously crafted menus that satisfy the diverse palates of the community. We can’t wait to see what they come up with! 201 Halleck St., Presidio.

New Openings Include Estrellita’s Snacks in the TL and Sweet Glory to Inner Sunset

I always love to see a La Cocina-born business graduate to opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant. This time, it’s Estrellita’s Snacks, run by second-generation-owner, Estrella Gonzalez (a.k.a. Estrellita)—it was originally founded by Estrella’s mother, Maria del Carmen Flores, who grew up in a small village in El Salvador and worked as a street food vendor. The business was most recently a kiosk at La Cocina’s Municipal Marketplace, and is now open at 483 Ellis Street (previously Marakand SF).

Gonzalez will be serving their handmade pupusas (with so many different fillings) and tamales, as well as new dishes showcasing dishes from both El Salvador and Oaxaca, where she was born and grew up. Check out the menu here, which includes entomatadas and enfrijoladas for breakfast, and tlayudas, enchiladas, and pipián de res (beef ribs in red mole) for lunch. Sign me up for all of it. Don’t forget to pick up some of their plantain chips to bring home. Open for breakfast and lunch to start Tue–Sun 8am–5pm. Dinner service is arriving in coming months. 483 Ellis St. at Leavenworth.

Thanks to tablehopper reader Wendy T., I learned a second location of Sweet Glory dessert café just opened on 9th Avenue between Irving and Judah. (Their first soft opening day was on Friday July 12th.) The popular dessert café’s original location on Larkin Street is known for their multiple varieties of mille crepe cakes (like Thai tea and passion fruit) and toasts, like kaya/pandan and crème brûlée. Open Wed–Mon 12pm–5pm for now. 1336 9th Ave. at Irving.

Over in SoMa, Northern China BBQ has opened in the former Kama Bistro (and Schnitzelhaus, awwwww), offering an array of skewers (including lamb, beef, tendon, oyster, chicken skin, chicken wing, corn, tofu skin, scallions), plus dishes like Mandarin pancake with sausage and egg, spicy pig ear with cucumber salad, a honkin’ lamb leg, spicy fish pot, and sweet and sour seaweed. Open Tue–Sun 11am–11:30pm. 294 9th St. at Folsom.

Also in SoMa and closer to the Financial District is Japanese House, now serving appetizers, bento boxes, sashimi, sushi rolls and nigiri, ramen, tenzaru soba (cold), and curry rice. Yelpers are praising the low prices (take a look at the menu here). Open Mon–Fri 11am–9pm, Sat–Sun 11am–3pm and 5pm–9pm. 510 Mission St. at 1st St.

Rize Up (Again and Again) and Help Support Dirty Girl

It breaks my heart to see Rize Up Bakery owner Azikiwee Anderson and his team suffer through yet another incident at their SoMa bakery, this time it’s flooding due to a fire at a nearby business on Natoma. The poor guy got the news about standing water in the bakery on his 50th birthday, so rude, and after being knocked out of full operating commission over the past couple weeks, they’re looking at around $45k–$60k in losses (goods, repairs, wages), according to this post on SFGATE and their GoFundMe page (which was set up to help with their recovery). Go buy some bread (or some stickers or a bag or a tee!) to help, they appreciate your support getting back on their feet and rising back up.

I was also dismayed to read in SFGATE that Dirty Girl Produce is going through some unusually tough times (with rising costs across the board), and needs some help to get through this final month before their beloved dry-farmed tomatoes 🍅 can be harvested. Farm owner Joe Schirmer created a GoFundMe to help get through this rough patch. Support your local farmer!

Chapeau! Gets a Revamp

After being in the Richmond District since 1996 (and at its current location since 2008), the family-run, neighborhood restaurant Chapeau! has a refreshed new look (both inside and out). There are also new additions on the classic French bistro menu, with chef de cuisine Andrew Gardelle (son of owners Philippe and Ellen Gardelle) leading the helm—he has also worked at Spruce and The Village Pub. 

Seasonal dishes include roasted tomato soup, roasted beet salad, and black cod with summer vegetables in a frothy coconut broth, studded with trout roe. Don’t worry, their classic dishes remain, starting with their housemade personal baguettes, as well as escargot, and cassoulet. There is also a new prix-fixe wine pairing menu available Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. Open Wed–Sun 5pm–9pm. 126 Clement St. at 2nd Ave. 

Seafood Specials: Double Happiness Meal at Mamahuhu and a Seafood BBQ Pop-Up

Nope, this isn’t your usual Happy Meal! Launching on National Caviar Day (Thursday July 18th), Mamahuhu is teaming up with local sustainable caviar purveyors Tsar Nicoulai Caviar to offer a Double Happiness Meal. You’ll receive a box with the Mamahuhu fish sando (crispy seasoned sea bass patty on a brioche bun, a Taiwanese-inspired pickled tartar sauce, Napa cabbage pickles, and an herby slaw of chrysanthemum, scallions, and cilantro), and a half-ounce jar of Tsar Nicoulai’s Estate White Sturgeon caviar, with a customized mother of pearl spoon (the grown-up version of the toy!) to scoop the caviar onto your sandwich (or directly into your mouth). The Double Happiness Meal is available at Mamahuhu’s three brick and mortar locations while supplies last. $49.

I have heard chef Peter Hemsley of Aphotic makes some fun and unique dishes for his seafood BBQ pop-ups (and I have tried his seafood hot dog!), and there’s one coming up at Old Princeton Landing in Half Moon Bay on Sunday July 28th at 2pm. No tickets required. There will also be live music from funk band Los Improviders. 

the lush

Wildhawk Has Refreshed Its Nest and Ginger’s Has Reopened for Regular Business 

After taking a short break for a little refresh and some maintenance updates, the swanky Wildhawk Cocktail Bar has reopened in the Mission. There’s also a new bar manager, Chason Huggins (previously at White Cap in Outer Sunset), who has added some new cocktails to the menu, and you’ll also find some snacks, including tinned fish by Jose Gourmet with crackers, caviar by The Caviar Co., and 4505 BBQ Chicharrones. New hours: Mon–Wed 3pm–12am, Thu–Fri 3pm–2am, Sat 2pm–2am, Sun 2pm–12am. 3464 19th St. at Lexington.

After reopening for Pride weekend, Ginger’s (FiDi’s only queer-identified space) is opening for regular hours and fun programming this week. There will also be food pop-ups every night, so you can grab a bite while you’re there! Tonight, Wednesday 17th is Ginger’s Reopening: First After-Work Karaoke Night with Emeli's Pupusas; Thursday July 18th is Drag-O-Licious with Olivia Hart: She’s Back! and Jungle Dog; and Friday July 19th is Haus of Cream and Bette’s Parm. Doors open at 5pm each evening. 86 Hardie Pl. at Kearny.

Prospect to Host a Tequila- and Mezcal-Based Cocktail-Making Class

by Savannah Leone Bundy

On Saturday July 27th, Prospect is hosting an agave-centric cocktail class for a limited number of guests. Led by bar director Abraham Flota (recent Grand Prize winner of the Boston Tripleseat Cocktail Contest), the workshop will focus on tequila and mezcal-based drinks and include cocktail-making techniques, mixology history, and hands-on practice. Each guest will receive their own cocktail kit—complete with a branded shaker—and enjoy an afternoon of handmade, boozy* fun. Tickets are $120 and available here. Sat July 27th. 2pm–4pm. 300 Spear St. at Folsom.

*Don’t worry, they’ll also be serving snacks. 😉

the archivist

Actually, read this article first. Embrace Frisco. Just don’t call it San Fran!

I included the back of this postcard (postmarked 1974) because I love the illustrated caption:

…IT’S SAN FRANCISCO — “The City”

Aptly called Bagdad-By-The-Bay, San Francisco at its best with Fisherman’s Wharf, Chinatown, Unique Flower Stands, Coit Tower, Golden Gate Bridge, and World Famous Cable Cars. 🌁