what’s cookin’
OK, I have had enough of this bratty weather that keeps trying to catch me without an umbrella. Sneaky! And then we had a lil’ earthquake thrown in to keep us on our toes. No, thank you! But, something I was saying, “Thank you, thank you!” to was the never-ending flow of bites and mini kouign-amann at last night’s pre-opening party for b. Patisserie at Union Square. (Read last week’s piece for all the details.)
It was quite the gathering of chefs and industry folks on the patio, including Kim Alter of Nightbird, Craig and Annie Stoll of Delfina, Shelley Lindgren of A16, Michelle Mah of Slanted Door Group, Corey Lee of Benu, Francis Ang of ABACÁ, Debbie Zachareas of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, Gianina Serrano of Sixth Course, and Harold McGee! Instead of a ribbon cutting, Mayor Lurie came by to paint one of the “i”s on “b. Patisserie” on the mural behind the pastry case. It was such a lovely kickoff event—here’s wishing the team much success over the next year. And you heard it here first: b. Patisserie Union Square opens...
Last Thursday, State Bird Provisions held an incredible event in conjunction with Emiko-san of Emi no Mise (Okinawa, Japan), thanks to host Japan Airlines. The charismatic Emiko-san (76) is a renowned expert in the longevity cuisine of the northern Yanbaru area of Okinawa (a Blue Zone, one of six in the world). SBP chefs Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski traveled to Okinawa for an immersive cooking (and lifestyle!) experience at her restaurant, and then Emiko-san came to San Francisco (her first visit to the United States) to collaborate on this special event’s menu of Okinawan-inspired dishes (I need to have her Okinawan rice balls in my life on the reg).
I’ll be posting my pics on @tablehopper stat, but for now, enjoy this precious video recap of the event. You can see more about Brioza and Krasinski’s visit to Emiko-San’s amazing world in this post, which includes a video, check it out. (It should make you want to book a trip to Okinawa. Here’s to long life!)
I have a fun giveaway to thank you 🙏 for your subscription and much-needed support! This Wednesday March 19th, my dear friend and artist Rob Delamater, co-founder of Lost Art Salon, is giving a talk (Impressionism to Pop Art: Art History for Interior Designers & Design Enthusiasts) as part of Saint Joseph’s Arts Society ArtTalks Series: “Join us for a dynamic presentation exploring the major art movements of the modern era. From Impressionism to Pop Art, discover how to identify and appreciate these iconic styles and their lasting influence on interior design. Whether you’re an interior designer seeking inspiration or a design enthusiast eager to deepen your knowledge, this session offers valuable insights and practical takeaways.” Doors open at 5:30pm; talk starts at 6pm. 1401 Howard St.
So, I needed to pump the brakes for this week’s issue after writing last week’s beast, and I lost a few hours attending the b. Patisserie pre-opening party last night. I’m also just so damn tired—I was home over the weekend fighting off a cold that was trying to sink its sicky claws into me. Noooooo! Fortunately, I gave it the smackdown.
Shoutout to a couple bowls of soup from my new-to-me neighbors that helped me course correct:
Happy spring equinox! Hello, daffodils and baby green plants and asparagus and mustard greens! This Thursday, I’m excited to head out of town for the spring “valley to coast tasting menu” at The Restaurant at North Block in Yountville, with wines from Aonair Napa Valley; there are still a few tickets available here.
Just a quick heads up that next week’s issue will likely be sent a day later than usual—don’t be surprised if you don’t hear from me on Tuesday.
Yours,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
It’s a New Era (and Neighborhood) for One of San Francisco’s Oldest Upscale Vietnamese Restaurants
Tough News for the Divisadero Corridor: Ragazza Is Closing After Almost 15 Years
Triste news on Divis: owner and pizzaiola Sharon Ardiana and business partner Greg Hinds have announced the upcoming closure of Ragazza, after almost 15 years of lovingly feeding the neighborhood. The last day of service for the adored neighborhood pizzeria and restaurant will be Monday March 31st. I remember when Ardiana was looking to expand her successful line-out-the-door Gialina Pizzeria in Glen Park, and was scouting around the NoPa neighborhood. I (somewhat selfishly, ha-ha!) suggested she look into taking over the restaurant that was in the former Metro Cafe, Metro Kathmandu, and she ended up getting the space! (Here’s the pic of her when she picked out Ragazza’s cherry red Wood Stone pizza oven.)
Ragazza occupied a special spot for the neighborhood, a fulfilling place that was open nightly where you could enjoy one of her delicious salads (that Green Goddess kale salad!) and iconic, seasonal pizzas made with top-notch and market-fresh ingredients (I was asking if she can source and offer the famed nettle pizza before closing). Don’t forget the beloved baked rigatoni special with Fontina béchamel, butternut squash, sage-brown butter, and amaretti.
Everyone had their favorite Ragazza pizza, from the amatriciana (mine), to the Moto, to waiting for the creative seasonal pizzas to come in, like the current Brussels sprouts pie (caramelized onion, thyme, Fontina, and smoked bacon). It was an easy spot for a glass of wine and arancini (while admiring the cute pictures of the women in her family on the walls), and I have attended such fun dinner parties in the awesome party gazebo in the backyard. Everyone was welcome, and the kind staff always remembered regulars.
In an email to me, Ardiana shares: “Well queue the Queen song, ‘Another One Bites the Dust!’ You have heard it all before… sales just are not what they were pre-pandemic, customers just not dining out as much, and the lease coming up for renewal. Unlike other landlords, ours would really love for us to stay, but with numbers being what they are and the ever challenging climate of tariffs on imported goods, I just don’t see growth and future economic success for Ragazza.
“It has been such a pleasure to serve the NOPA corridor for almost 15 years. So many great memories and customers. I feel truly blessed that I had such a great run!” She adds: “I think mostly what I want you to say to your readers is that if they love a restaurant and have not visited in some time, to please try and support them by visiting them if they are able to. It all helps!” Ya heard?
Fortunately, Gialina Pizzeria is faring better in Glen Park and will remain open (you can go there when the itch for a New York, New York pizza strikes). Many thanks and best wishes to the Ragazza team for keeping the light on for the neighborhood, offering such delicious, seasonal, heartfelt cooking and pizzas for all these years, and staying open for another week so we can say, “Arrivederci.” Ardiana had one more musical note for us: “It makes me so sad to say goodbye to Ragazza, but like Kenny Rogers said, ‘You gotta know when to fold ‘em!’” Meow. 311 Divisadero St.
Onsen Bathouse Is Now Booking Reservations for the End of March
Last October, I wrote about the impending reopening of Onsen, a combination bathhouse and restaurant in a former auto shop in the Tenderloin. The new operator is Adam Wren, who worked at the bathhouse when it first opened in 2016. Onsen sadly closed during the pandemic, and when owners Sunny Simmons and Caroline Smith were unable to find the right buyer for the unique space, they reconnected with Wren to work out a deal to reopen it and run it. In our call, he said to me, “I am living the dream! It’s hard to be able to open a restaurant in SF, and I feel happy and so fortunate to have this space.”
After making some updates and getting things functional again (oh, and he just got married this past Friday!), the bathhouse is going to open on Thursday March 27th—it will be open Thursdays through Sundays, 10am–10pm. There’s a sauna, steam room, and soaking pool, with numerous handcrafted wood features, a skylight, and plants. It’s a true urban oasis.
There will be men’s (bathing suit optional), women’s (bathing suit optional), and coed (bathing suit required) days/nights you can book (for two hours). I brought up the anti-trans/discriminatory policies some local spas have attempted to put into place recently (at Archimedes Banya—and here’s the follow-up on that story—as well as Imperial Spa) and Wren was quick to comment: “San Francisco is a place for freedom and expression. Visiting Onsen is a place for the community to be together and most of all a safe space.” At Onsen, guests who are non-binary or trans can choose the gender-specific or coed session they identify with and will feel most comfortable with. As it should be.
Stand by for more! In the meantime, I know we could all use a good soak and steam. Ahhhh. 466 Eddy St. at Hyde.
Quick Opening News: Tacos and Turkish Pide
Tasty Deals for You!
I know, it’s tough to live and eat in this expensive-ass city (thank you for helping me survive with your subscription!), so I have a couple deals for ya so you can try to live a little large! Over at Perbacco in the Financial District, they just updated their happy hour at the bar (Tue–Fri 3pm–6pm). You can get a Negroni, Martini, Italian 75, or other cocktails for just $10, as well as three kinds of wines, and $6 beers. Snacks include supplì (crispy mushroom risotto croquettes, truffle aioli), fried Brussels sprouts, and a pizzetta fritta (just look at that bad boy). Check out the menu here. 230 California St.
Do you have a sweet tooth? Love carbs like your life depends on them? (I see you!) Then you should know that every Thursday from 9:30am–12:30pm, the baking program students of City College of San Francisco (CCSF) hold a bake sale pop-up at The Educated Palette café in SoMa. Come by for an array of crazy-affordable goodies, including croissants, turnovers, Danishes, scones, and brownies, mostly for $2.50–$3.50, plus cookies for just $1.25! There are also lemon meringue tartlets, NY cheesecake, baguettes (for $1!), focaccia, grissini, and more for $5 and under. Pace yourself. 88 4th St. at Mission.
the socialite
Oakland Restaurant Week Begins Thursday! Plan to Dine Out on The Town March 20th–30th
Oakland Restaurant Week is back, offering 10 days of exclusive menus, special deals, and unique dining experiences across the city. With over 120+ participating restaurants, it’s an opportunity to explore Michelin-recognized destinations, neighborhood favorites, and emerging hotspots. Restaurants will feature a special offer or experience with traditional lunch and/or dinner menus offered at six different price points: lunch: $15, $25, $35; and dinner: $35, $45, $65.
Have you been wanting to check out Popoca, Burdell, the new Jaji, or the buzzy Chimmelier Korean fried chicken? Baking superstar Starter Bakery has a special offer, and even the new Tarts de Feybesse has something! It’s also your last chance to visit Perle in Montclair Village, which chef-owner Rob Lam just announced he is closing after eight years—the last night of service is March 31st. Be sure to look through all the listings and menus and book your reservations.
In addition to exclusive restaurant offerings, Community Kitchens is launching the inaugural Oakland Food Futures Summit during Oakland Restaurant Week. The Summit will bring together chefs and hospitality professionals to collaborate on strengthening Oakland’s local food ecosystem as well as feature a series of engaging events, including the Future Chefs of Oakland: a pop-up series showcasing aspiring chefs from diverse backgrounds, offering unique dining experiences.
Next Saturday: Celebrate BIPOC Women Makers at the Ferry Building on March 29th
by Savannah Leone Bundy
In honor of Women’s History Month, Foodwise continues their Pop-Ups on the Plaza series with a specially curated event that shines light on BIPOC women. The market will feature 15 chefs and makers from around the Bay Area, including Lil’ Alijo Catering & Events, Pleasure Principle Supper Club, Smoke Soul Kitchen (who recently opened a restaurant in Bayview), Tonantzin Mexican Cuisine, Papa’s Dumpling, and more.
Admission is free and there will be a DJ, along with a chef demonstration from Leisel Whitlock Petersen of Sainte Sophie Creole Confections. Saturday March 29th. 9am–2pm. 1 Ferry Building.
