This week’s tablehopper: sparkly. (free)

what’s cookin’

Wow, it was another day in California paradise with this insanely lovely weather—what a treat. Sis and I (AKA Biscuit and Champers) headed out for our annual holiday spirits tour on Saturday night, and I didn’t even need my heavy holiday coat! I will post a recap of where we went on @tablehopper on Instagram this week. It was so great to see the City looking bustle-y, with busy bars and friendly vibes everywhere we went. 

Another fun outing: my friends and I played hooky last week to go see the fabulous Tamara de Lempicka exhibit at the de Young (up through February 9th, 2025). My Art Deco queen. What a life, such talent and vision. Don’t miss it.

I spent most of my weekend doing new apartment–related chores (still getting settled over here), and getting my holiday décor up (sissy brought me a gorgeous wreath from Cole Hardware, which smells so good every time I open my door). If you’re looking for some festive tunes while you trim your tree or have friends over for holiday cheer, here’s my Top It Off mix I made for a tablehopper holiday party some years ago.

Last night, as soon as I hit send on this thing, I went to a special performance at Club Fugazi of Dear San Francisco/This is Our City with KRON4’s Vicki Liviakis (did you see my recent video?). Dear San Francisco is running a special holiday show, and the troupe of acrobats is amazing! So strong, sexy, and energetic, and breathtaking to watch. Go check it out!

Wishing you a festive and fun week!

XO
~Champers 🥂 (AKA Marcia)

the chatterbox

A Refreshed Magnolia Brewing Co. from New Owners Is Now Open in the Upper Haight

A few months ago, I wrote about the trio of local hospitality pros—Kevin Kynoch (Fly Bar, Fishbowl, Polo Grounds), Brandon Phillips (21^st Amendment), and Brian Reccow (Specialistas Hospitality)—who took over Magnolia Brewing Co. from New Belgium Brewing. After closing for a few months to update the space and develop a new format for Magnolia, they just swung the doors back open of this iconic location last Thursday December 5th. 

I spoke with Kevin Kynoch about the changes and updates, and he shared the overarching ethos is about being community-oriented and welcoming to all, from Magnolia craft beer aficionados to cocktail lovers, whether you’re looking for a bite or a full meal, on a date or with a group of friends. 

Their consulting chef is Tony Alcala, who designed a family-style, small-plates menu of elevated pub fare. Dishes on the opening menu range from garlic-miso wings with Calabrian chimichurri and chive crema (say that five times fast), to whipped feta or white bean dips, a nice-lookin’ smoked tinned fish presentation, and vegetable plates like charred broccolini or roasted fennel, and a Little Gem Caesar or the full send salad, with crispy chickpeas, kale, arugula, pecorino, shaved beets, granada, and candied lemon vinaigrette. To go with your beer, there’s a double smash burger, crispy chicken sandwich, and brewery shoestring fries with pecorino, herbs, and malt vinegar aioli. Look for more to be added soon. 

Some great brews news: former Magnolia brewer Jon Taylor is coming back to helm the on-site basement brewery—for the past few years, he was at Trinity Brewing in Colorado Springs during the pandemic. He will be brewing three Magnolia classics (Kali Kolsch, Proving Ground, and Fivey Time), as well as some new brews “with a twist” (I hear he’s planning to release a pale ale). I look forward to tasting what this Black craft brewer has in store for us with his return to SF! While they’re waiting for the TTB to give them the all-clear to produce beer (hopefully in two–three weeks), they’re going to highlight local beers for now on the 12 handles, like Harmonic, Ghost Town, and SF Brew Co., and there are two N/A beers on offer.

You’ll also find a couple wines on tap from Sonoma and Healdsburg (at a friendly $10/glass), and bottles, including a non-alcoholic blanc de blancs. The new spirits program has a cocktail list with eight selections (all just $12!), and a few drinks pay homage to the neighborhood’s hippie history, like the LSD (lemon sage daiquiri) and Psychedelic Sunrise (Mezcal Unión, grapefruit juice, prickly pear syrup, chili half rim), as well as the Drogstore Old Fashioned, which is a reference to when the storied location was The Drogstore Cafe in 1964. There is also a boilermaker option (add a select shot to any beer for $6).

The space was updated to feel more open and provide easier access to the bar, so the booths that were in the center of the room were moved to the side, and replaced by high-top tables in the middle. Some of the walls feature eclectic memorabilia, plus there’s a fresh paint job and plants, while the original tile from when it was Schumates Pharmacy remains.

It’s important to the group to be stewards of the history and legacy of Magnolia (founded by Dave McLean in 1997), which has personal meaning to them since they have been in the local F&B industry for over 20 years. They want to be accessible to the neighborhood in many ways, so they’ll be open Sun–Thu 12pm–12am, and until 1am Fri–Sat; kitchen until 10pm. Brunch will be served Fri–Sun starting the first week of January (Friday the 3rd). There’s nothing like this corner restaurant’s outdoor tables and a cold beer on a sunny day. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic. 

La Sarrasine Morphs Into Bistro La Chaumière, Bringing French Mediterranean Dishes to Divis

Over in NoPa, Kamel Bouzidi’s galette-centric crêperie La Sarrasine on Divisadero has closed and morphed into a refreshed reincarnation, La Chaumière (“the cottage”), with a new chef and expanded French Mediterranean menu. Chef de cuisine Francesco Brevetti (Ristobar, Poesia, Bettola) is bringing some fresh interpretations to a classic (French) table.

The all-day neighborhood bistro will offer baked egg dishes (including their fantastic shakshuka) and sandwiches for breakfast (until 3pm!), while lunch brings onion soup and salads, croques, moules frites, and their trademark savory galettes made from imported French buckwheat flour—I am partial to the Campagnarde (crispy bacon, caramelized onions, asiago, and sunny-side-up egg). Dinner adds on dishes like bouillabaisse (with rouille croutons), branzino, steak frites (with hand-cut fries), duck confit with French lentils, a burger, and save room for creme brûlée for dessert. The menu will expand in time as the kitchen adjusts.

Open for breakfast/lunch Tue–Fri 11am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm; wine and beer Tue–Sun 3pm–5pm ($3 off on all by the glass wines/beers + apéritif snack menu), and dinner Tue–Sun 5pm–9pm. 607 Divisadero St. at Grove.

Positive News Updates Around Town

I was thrilled to hear a rumor last week that La Méditerranée on Fillmore (2210 Fillmore St.) got a lease extension—it was looking like their new landlord was potentially going to evict La Med when their lease was up in May, after 45 years in the neighborhood. A press release/joint statement confirms owner Vanick Der Bedrossian has secured a multi-year extension of La Méditerranée’s lease through the summer of 2028. After the public outcry and rallies, they were thankfully able to reach an agreement with their new landlord, the Upper Fillmore Revitalization Project (which is “a community reinvestment project” run by hospitality entrepreneur Cody Allen, with $100M in funding from Neil Mehta) and keep this longtime and legacy business in place for at least a few more years. 

As part of the agreement, La Med is going to be open again on Sundays starting in late January, and “will look to extend its hours of operations over time, as evening foot traffic is rebuilt up and down Fillmore.” I had a quick call with Der Bedrossian, who said, “It’s a good day for Fillmore Street and small business.”

There were a couple more updates/clarifications included in the statement: “Many of the properties in the Upper Fillmore neighborhood were vacant or had been neglected by their previous owners, suffering from significant deferred maintenance issues. Mehta committed $100 million to the UFRP and its mission to rejuvenate the Upper Fillmore commercial district, subsequently contributing the entirety of his stake in the project to a nonprofit, meaning Mehta does not own nor have any financial interest nor will he benefit from the properties.” 

I was also wondering about Ten-Ichi, which just closed in September after 46 years on Fillmore, and there was this mention: “Despite the enormous investment the UFRP will make in the acquired properties, the Project has demonstrated its commitment to its mission by offering new or extended leases with no increase in monthly rent to some of the existing tenants, including Ten-Ichi Restaurant, at 2235 Fillmore St. Ten-Ichi declined the offer in favor of signing a termination agreement with the former landlord that included roughly $100,000 in debt forgiveness, free rent and cash payments.” We’ll have to see what else is coming up for Fillmore Street and its many storefronts that seem to be in flux right now.

Just down the street: after temporarily closing for a seismic retrofit, The Anchovy Bar is back as of this Friday December 13th. It’s time for anchovy toast! Reservations are open. Hours are Thu–Mon 5pm–9pm. 1740 O’Farrell St.

Across town, it appears that Turtle Tower Bistro is opening in the former Barbacco in the Financial District. Owner Steven Nghia Pham closed their longtime location in Little Saigon and their second in SoMa back in 2023. SF Business Times spotted the permit activity first, and reported “Serial hospitality investor Arash Ghanadan is behind the new venture’s permits and an associated LLC,” but he didn’t respond to a request for comment. Stand by for updates on this unexpected potential comeback. 220 California St.

One can only hope for a positive outcome for Sam Wo Restaurant, which has set the date of its closure for mid-January, when head chef David Jitong Ho can finally retire after 40-plus years. Sadly, a deal has not been finalized (yet) to buy the family-run business and keep the iconic 116-year-old restaurant in Chinatown going. Read more in these pieces in SF Examiner and SFGATE to understand what some of the potential outcomes and scenarios could be to keep Sam Wo going. For the love of goddess, please, let’s figure this out. 713 Clay St. at Kearny.

Holiday Sweets and Traditional Treats

So, in last week’s tablehopper, I focused on holiday gifts, and this week is all about holiday treats and special food items (some also make great gifts). 

Let’s start with panettone. I love having a few around—sometimes you want traditional, and sometimes you want a slice of amarena cherry and chocolate. It’s great for breakfast, or an afternoon snack, and to offer a slice to impromptu guests. I also make French toast with any that I have leftover in January that needs to get eaten. A panettone also makes a great gift if you’re going to someone’s house.

Every year, I look forward to my first slice of Veneziana panettone (studded with candied orange zest and topped with almond paste, coarse sugar, and toasted almonds) from Emporio Rulli—it’s how I know I’m officially in holiday mode. Baker Gary Rulli has been at it for years (making good panettone is such a craft), and he offers a few kinds of panettone, as well as panforte, and you can order it all for delivery. (Throw in some coffee, too, I love his rich espresso roast.)

A16 La Pala has been carrying Namesday Panettone, lovingly made by Alex Lovick of Namesday Bakeshop, and this year, he’s making traditional candied orange and raisin (glazed) and by popular demand, triple chocolate (unglazed). You can preorder yours ($48)—email to order, for availability, and pickup locations: info@a16sf.com. Available now until December 31st.

Another fresh and locally made panettone is the slow-fermented panettone from Starter Bakery in Oakland, either traditional, or filled with Italian candied orange peel and 72% bittersweet chocolate. The delicate texture is extraordinary. Preorder for pickup or delivery at either of their locations. (There’s stollen as well.)

Perhaps the most beautifully presented panettoni are from Loison in Vicenza, which are imported by Casa de Case, and they are as delicious as they are elegant (did someone say pistachio-matcha?). You can shop by flavor or presentation (how about one in a hatbox, or with the cutest stuffed animal—I die over how cute they are every year), but stock is limited! You should also pick up some of their olio nuovo from Olivestri while you can—the Cases started importing olio nuovo 25 years ago, and their love for this special seasonal product is what started their business.

Market Hall in Rockridge always carries an extensive array of top-quality, imported panettone, panforte, and cakes, including Rustichella d’Abruzzo, Pasticceria Filippi, and there’s even one with balsamic cream from Acetaia Leonardi, wow. Some have already sold out, so don’t wait too long. (From Market Hall Bakery, there is also really good fruitcake, bûche de Noël, and stollen, too.) You should also look at their shelves of olio nuovo—there is a rotating selection based on the harvest timing, but right now these are in from California: Frantoio Grove, Séka Hills, and Bondolio, and from Italy, there is the fab Tonda Iblea (Capezzana from Tuscany will arrive in about a week or so).

The panettoni (and a pandoro) from Infermentum have arrived in the Donato online store, and they always sell out! You can order online for delivery or pickup, which is handy if you’re on the Peninsula. This is another spot where you will want to add some of their delicious espresso beans from Laboratorio di Torrefazione Giamaica Caffè by Gianni Frasi (the Giovanni Erbisti 1947 is a pleasing medium roast of four Arabica beans).

I heard that Poesia Café head baker Giovanni Liguoro is making three kinds of delicious panettone, which you can pick up at the cafe in the Castro, but hey East Bay folks, it’s also available by the slice ($7.50) at The Caffè by Mr. Espresso in Oakland, so you can dunk it into your cappuccino. You can also purchase a whole panettone ($56)! They will be offering the classic made with candied orange and raisins, and a chocolate-covered panettone with a coffee-infused dough, brilliant.

Another festive thing happening at The Caffè by Mr. Espresso in Oakland is their chef collab with Craig Stoll of Delfina: the Bicerin alla Menta, a festive twist on the classic bicerin (beech-eh-reen), the OG mocha that is famous in Torino, Italy. Craig’s version uses TCHO drinking chocolate, a double shot of Mr. Espresso’s Neapolitan Espresso, and a topping of airy peppermint whipped cream. Available through December 23rd, and 10% of every Bicerin alla Menta sold will be donated to Community Kitchens Oakland, supporting their incredible work for food justice in Oakland’s underserved communities. (You can also bring home a bag of their limited-edition Caffè Festivo espresso blend!)

If you’re looking for untraditional yule logs, there’s an ube yule log at ABACÁ, with yuzu mousse, macapuno, and coconut ($65, serves approximately 10–12). Available for pick-up Monday December 23rd from 2pm–6pm; pre-order via OpenTable.

Now for a few savory items:

If you don’t have a family tamalada to be part of, you can preorder all kinds of tamales (including vegan and sweet corn) from La Palma Mexicatessen in the Mission this month ($40 per dozen; $25 for six). They produce their own nixtamal and make their own masa on-site every day from GMO-free corn; open since 1953, and a San Francisco tradition for stocking up on Nochebuena tamales (and holiday masa to make your own).

Looking for something special for Christmas? You can pre-order The Morris signature smoked roasted duck to cook at home—each whole ($110) or half duck ($55) comes with sauce and roasting instructions (and don’t forget to order the duck noodle soup kit to savor your leftovers). Deadline to order is this Friday, December 13th.

Mestiza in SoMa is offering a Kamayan feast to go for the holidays, full of meat, seafood, and vegetable bites and sides and sauces and treats (available 12/20–12/24 and 12/28–12/31). Each box serves six for $220 (get ready to eat with your hands—no dishes to do!) and comes with instructions for serving at home. Limited quantities (10) available each night for pickup between 4pm–6pm. Available for preorder only on Tock for pickup or delivery ($35).

Next week, stand by for latkes and Hanukkah treats!

the sponsor

Hey Restaurant and Bar Owners, How’s Your Holiday Marketing Going? Need Help with Your Social Media? Check Out These Exclusive Offers to Boost Your Biz!

Some of you may remember the awesome PopHop giveaway we did with Popmenu a couple years ago, when you could nominate a local, independent restaurant to win a complete website upgrade and free marketing for six months. Well, it’s the holidays, and they have another gift for the industry. Keep reading!

My friend who works with Popmenu just walked me through their latest features, and I was pretty blown away with their new offerings, like an AI-assisted marketing calendar and social media post generation and handling your phone calls. It’s so hard to be a small business owner, and Popmenu can really help you get a leg up when you’re trying to do everything yourself. (Ask me how I know!)

My friend is offering tablehopper referrals a $500 credit if you sign on for any of their offerings, from a website upgrade with the add-on AI Marketing calendar planner, or just get the AI phone answering. She’ll also hook you up with exclusive rates (get AI Marketing for just $99/mo., $200 off the regular price of $299/mo.) and VIP attention. 

Even better: sign up for a Popmenu-powered website this month (by 12/31/24) and they will waive the standard $1299 one-time onboarding and implementation fee that supports the dedicated team that builds and designs your site, hooks up applicable integrations, and more. (Take a look at sites like the brand-new Gigi’s, GIOIA, and ROOH!) It’s a sweetheart and exclusive deal for friends of tablehopper, and she can’t do this come 1/1, so hop to it.

Curious? Hit reply to this newsletter or email me and I can connect you (it’s the only way to get the special tablehopper pricing). She’s in town this week and would love to meet you and walk you through all the ways Popmenu can help you increase business automatically and start the year strong. 💪

the lush

A Couple More Holiday Options for Your List

I wanted to add a couple more fun holiday outings for you. Last year, my friend and I had the best night at the Evil Eye in the Mission—husband-and-wife team Piper and Matt Norris really decorate the bar beautifully with eclectic vintage style, and their festive cocktails are so well-executed and downright fantastic. Their holiday list just went live: I loved the creative Evil Nog (rum, brandy, pandan, egg, toasted sesame, peanut, oloroso, nutmeg, amaro), and the clever Cold Fashioned (milk and cookies washed bourbon, winter spices, bitters, orange oil, big cube). Want a hot drink? Their Hot Buttered Rum is on another level (aged rum, evil spiced butter batter, salted amaro whipped cream) and Abuelita is a strong hug (mezcal, green chartreuse, dark chocolate, coconut milk, cinnamon, chili). There are seven in all. 

Need a break from all the holiday cocktails? Don’t miss their Liquid Sunshine (tomato gin, basil eau de vie, peach, manzanilla, dry vermouth, served up with a twist), a brilliant cocktail that actually haunts me. Time for another! They also have a killer kitchen, cranking out really tasty bites that will make everyone happy and keep you from getting wasted, from carrot and urad dal mousse (candied peanut, curry leaf oil, makrut pickle, radish, sumac salt, cilantro, grilled sourdough), to braised pork tacos (recado negro pork, oregano crema, pickled onion, radish, cilantro, cotija), to a Chicago beef dip burger (or an Impossible dip burger). Mon–Thu 5pm–11pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–12am, Sun 4pm–10pm. 2937 Mission St. at 25th St.

the socialite

Where to Eat This Christmas Eve (and Christmas Day)

by Savannah Leone Bundy

With Christmas rapidly approaching (and it’s squarely midweek this year, no less!), figuring out what to eat can be a stressful endeavor—but we’ve got a list of Bay Area restaurants that are open during the holiday. Whether you’re looking for a traditional Italian Vigilia di Natale dinner, or a good, old-fashioned steak, we’ve got you covered.

Montesacro Marina is hosting La Vigilia from noon ’til 8pm on Christmas Eve. The eight-course, prix-fixe menu ($75/person + $33 wine pairing) is a celebration of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, and features rockfish crudo, crispy oysters, grilled octopus, and more.

Montesacro SoMa is offering a three-course prix fixe ($65/person + $45 wine pairing) with a mouth-watering selection of classic Italian fare and pinsas.

54 Mint’s Vigilia menu will be a three-course, family-style meal ($80/person + $55 wine pairing) with porcini lasagna, braised cuttlefish, and seafood risotto as the main dishes. Served from 1pm–8pm.

The casual Bettola in the Inner Richmond will celebrate with a family-style meal ($65/person) that features an array of antipasti (fritto misto, giardinera, crostini with anchovies, and baccalà croquettes), cannelloni, and lobster broth cioppino. 11am–9pm. 

A16 (SF and Rockridge) hasn’t released their annual Festa dei Sette Pesci menu yet, but there will also be vegetarian options and wine pairings available for the Christmas Eve festivities. Reservations can be made here. 

In Berkeley, Donato & Co. will serve three courses ($70/person) of Venetian seafood dishes—although chef Gianluca Guglielmi isn’t calling it the Feast of the Seven Fishes—and panettone bread pudding until 9pm. The regular menu will be available all day as well. 

Donato Enoteca in Redwood City will offer a similar prix-fixe menu ($75/person), with each dish available à la carte. 

Frances will have a family-style meal ($125/person + $65 wine pairing) with black cod and wagyu petit filet as entrée options. 

Octavia is offering dishes like fresh spaghetti with mussels and pork coppa as part of their Christmas Eve prix-fixe menu ($125/person + $65 wine pairing), with chocolate bûche de Noël served alongside hazelnut ice cream. 

The Vault Steakhouse will have a four-course prix fixe ($115/person), with classics like beef tartare, a short rib Wellington, and baked Alaska as options. You can check out the menu here.

Bombay Brasserie will serve three-course meals on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day ($85/person + $55 wine pairing) in its festive room, featuring duck pâté, scallop moilee, and filet mignon—with caviar supplement options. Reservations can be made here.

Brenda’s French Soul Food is serving their regular menu on Christmas Eve, but on Christmas (Wednesday the 25th), they’ll be serving a host of crab dishes—think crabcakes, crab beignets, crab croque monsieur, etc.—and introducing lobster Boudreaux. The deep-fried turkey plate will be available, too. You can reserve a spot here. (If you want a Christmas feast at home, order one of Brenda’s Cajun Prime Rib Feast Kits—$295, feeds 4-6.)