what’s cookin’
How on earth is it already Thanksgiving next week? And has it really been one month since I moved to my new apartment? Whut. What a whirlwind. Last week, I had my first dinner out in six weeks (can you believe it?)—I’ve been spending every spare minute on this move, and I’m still unpacking (it’s endless) and getting this place into shape. So much work!
But this past weekend, my tablehopping ways were back in action. It was such a perfect welcome back moment to dine out at Tommaso’s—my friend Arthur and I cozied up in a booth for a hearty dinner of Coo-Coo clams, garlic bread, antipasti, shrimp and crab ravioli, lasagna, veal parm, and shared a cannolo for dessert (of course). Gotta love the big girl pours they serve. We rolled out of there (with leftovers, don’t you worry).
Saturday was a gorgeous fall day, so I took a field trip with my friend Coco to India Basin Waterfront Park, where we grabbed lunch from Lil’Alijo at The Food Pavilion (the crab and shrimp lumpia and seafood corn chowder hit the spot). We also hung out in the afternoon sun over a coffee at Cafe Alma, and checked in with Reese Benton at Posh Green Collective dispensary. That night, I went to the recently opened 200 Channels in SoMa for the late show, what a blast. Look for a writeup from me next week on this new party theatre.
Sunday included a visit to the Alemany Flea Market (I’ve been having so much fun hitting up flea markets again), and in today’s column, I have a writeup (for subscribers only) of a deeeeeelicious lunch I enjoyed after my treasure hunting at a new Vietnamese place that recently opened.
Last night (Monday evening), I left my desk on a rare deadline night outing to check out the latest incarnation of Park Tavern, which is opening Friday—their PR team promised me a press release and menu so I could write it up in time for today’s column, but unfortunately, that didn’t happen. Stand by for a missive from me very soon.
In other North Beach news: after I mentioned the soon-to-reopen North Beach Restaurant in last week’s column, a reader let me know the sad news that business partner Peter Fazio unexpectedly passed away last month, just after his 87th birthday—I didn’t see it in the news, but here is his obituary. Back in 2009, Fazio opened Vicoletto in North Beach with fellow Calabrese Francesco Covucci, who went on to open Il Casaro, Casaro Osteria, Barbara Pinseria, and California Fish Market together—at least Pete was able to enjoy a birthday dinner at North Beach Restaurant before he passed. Condoglianze to his family, many friends, and business associates.
One more note: I have noticed a flurry of folks leaving rotten X/Twitter/Xitter, and flying over to Bluesky as an alternative to the cesspool. You can find tablehopper here!
OK, gang, buckle up for this atmospheric river (five days of rain, here we go), and I’ll be swimming back into your inbox soon enough.
Soup’s on!
~Marcia (rhymes with Garcia)
the chatterbox
GiGi’s Wine Bar Opens Friday November 22nd in NoPa
Back in October, I mentioned the upcoming opening of GiGi’s in NoPa, a Vietnamese-influenced wine bar from chef Tu David Phu (along with founders Arthur Leung and Vincent Lo, and managing partner and director of events, Karen Wong). After my piece went out, I learned the talented Madison Michael (previously co-owner of Merchant Roots, and general manager of Osito and Birch & Rye) was going to be the GM and sommelier—she’s picking up from consultant/advanced sommelier Justin Chin (Hina Yakitori, Gary Danko) who worked on the opening wine program. Expect a mix of Old World and New World wines—from classic producers to Croatian and Hungarian wines—along with sake, beer, and a handful of non-alcoholic options; prices start at $10 for a rosé by the glass and $50 for bottles. If you want to get the party started, there are also going to be Chambongs (glou glou!). There will be a retail/bottle shop open Wed–Sun 12pm–6pm.
In my earlier piece, I mentioned Phu, a Top Chef alum, will be offering small plates inspired by his childhood in the Bay Area (Phu’s father was a fishmonger). You can come in for bar bites like cured meats or milk bread with scallion butter, plus raw dishes like ceviche (salmon, pineapple, niyog, lemongrass vinegar; $18) and carpaccio (tuna, fish sauce, chili, herbs; $21). Salads include a Vietnamese Caesar (Little Gems, anchovy, Parmesan, grilled rice paper; $17) and bún (rice noodle, cucumber, peas, pickles, bean sprouts, coconut milk, fish sauce, peanuts; $17).
Mains feature the previously mentioned Saigon wagyu dog ($18), along with a version of bánh mì with cold cuts (artisan salumi, truffle pate, cucumber, pickles, jalapeno, cilantro; $17), and mapo tofu noodles (shiitake, eggplant, fermented fava, bean sprout, chili pepper; $20). Desserts include Parisian matcha flan and Basque cheesecake (jackfruit, lychee, fortune cookie bits), both $14.
The former Wholesome Bakery space was given quite the transformation from interior designer Margaret Ruiz of The Strand (Bar Gemini, Voyage and Souvenir Bottleshop in San Anselmo). The cozy space has 14 stools at the bar with custom lighting, plus a communal table, and a back corner that you’re going to want to nestle into with friends or a hot date, with warm brick red banquette seating and plush padded stools.
It has such an inviting look, with natural materials like Asian-inspired wall panels with grasscloth and elm trim and tongue-and-groove wainscoting, plus burgundy walls and brick. It’s going to be quite the haven during our upcoming winter weather. The opening date is this Friday November 22nd. Hours will be Wed–Sun 4pm–9pm. 299 Divisadero St. at Page.
A New Neighborhood Eatery Opens in Bernal
A star tablehopper reader let me know about a new restaurant that just opened in the former Bernal Star space—which closed after the landlord squeezed them out with a jacked-up rent—and was previously Liberty Cafe. The new, women-owned business is The Crumb, from the founder of Bernal-based catering outfit, On the Roll Catering: owner and head chef Masha Matveyeva. With her catering background, it makes sense that they have quite a variety of international small plates on their menu ($14–$22), including mini blini with black caviar...
A Recently Opened, Low-Key, Vietnamese Gem
On Sunday afternoon, after spending my morning trawling through the Alemany Flea Market (thank goddess the market was saved and didn’t go away), I worked up an appetite and was excited to head over to the recently opened...
This Weekend Is the Grand Opening of Dabao Singapore’s New Metreon Location
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On Friday November 22nd, critically acclaimed chef Emily Lim is opening a brick-and-mortar location for her popular Dabao Singapore concept. After four years of successful pop-ups, catering, and meal kit delivery, her Singaporean street food will find a permanent home in the Metreon food court.
Lim (who wowed us earlier this year at the POC Food and Wine Festival with her beef cheek rendang toast) will be offering authentic dishes like poached Hainanese chicken rice (lemongrass-ginger chicken, rice, cucumber, ginger-scallion sauce, umami sauce, calamansi chile sauce; $16.95) and seafood laksa (rice noodles, spiced coconut broth, shrimp, fish balls, fish cakes, sambal, puffed tofu, egg; $18.95) that honor the street hawker foods that she grew up with. Open Tue–Thu 11:30am–3:30pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–7:30pm. 135 4th St. (FC03) at Minna.
West Portal Gets a Seafood and Vegan Sushi Restaurant
Soft-opening this Wednesday November 20th is Lion, a seafood and sushi restaurant (using wild or sustainably source seafood) that will also serve innovative vegan sushi, using plant-based seafood (tuna and salmon) from local company Impact Food.
Special Deals and New Bites Around Town
Oh hey, it’s Tuesday, which means you can enjoy 50 percent off any bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine 🥂 at Montesacro Marina. Scroll down the bottom of the wines page to see the fab bottles, including producers like Deutz, Yves Jacques “MCM32,” and Domaine Lagille. 3317 Steiner St. at Lombard.
This Friday November 22nd, Sam’s Grill & Seafood Restaurant, the fifth-oldest restaurant in the United States, is celebrating their 157th anniversary with $10 martinis, Drake’s Bay oysters on the half shell (4 for $10), and live classic jazz from The Nick Rossi Trio on their patio atrium. Cheers! Starts at 4:30pm. 374 Bush St. at Belden.
Above China Live is the swanky hideaway Cold Drinks Bar, where you can now enjoy a bite with your after-work cocktail crafted by lead bartender Yong Zhu. The new food menu includes boneless S&P chicken wings ($16), Indochine lobster imperial rolls ($25), and grilled Mongolian lamb or cumin-spiced mushroom skewers ($16–$32), plus caviar service, and their Peking duck fat popcorn. Available Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm. 644 Broadway at Stockton.
the lush
Bitters & Bottles Is Opening a Bottle Shop in San Francisco, Cheers!
I can’t believe I move away from the NoPa neighborhood, and now one of the Bay Area’s best bottle shops is opening a second location, just down the street from my former apartment. Of course!
Due to open in second quarter of 2025 will be a second location of Bitters & Bottles from owners Joe Barwin and Meredith Lantz. The new location will be opening in the former Bank of America space across from Falletti Foods in the plaza on Fell Street at Broderick. The duo opened their first location in South San Francisco in 2013, and when they finalized their business deal and partnership, they prophetically had their celebration lunch at Nopalito. And now, here they are, opening their SF flagship in the same plaza.
They always imagined they would end up opening a shop in SF, and started their search for a location in the beginning of 2020. They will be doubling their square footage with this second location, and are excited to be in such a vibrant neighborhood that is so central (it will also be easier for their North Bay customers to visit). Not only do they sell a well-selected and vast lineup of craft spirits, but they also have non-alcoholic spirits/aperitivi, bar tools, mixers, and bitters. Another thing that works out well is Falletti’s only sells beer and wine, and B&B does not, so it will be quite the symbiotic relationship. Barwin mentioned they plan to secure the ability to host tastings down the line as well. Stand by for updates. 1275 Fell St. at Broderick.
