what’s cookin’
Hello hello! Your hopper has descended from the mountains! (Although I was driving a Fiat instead of ridin’ six white horses late Tuesday night.) I’m coming off of two blissful weeks up at our family cabin in Tahoma (on the West Shore of Lake Tahoe), and I really helped it live up to its reputation as Stayhoma: I enjoyed cooking (and grilling!) dinner at home and watching movies and documentaries every night (my favorites: Nada, a fun slice of life kind of story about an aging food critic in Buenos Aires—Francis Mallman was the culinary advisor, and Robert De Niro has a charming part in it; Becoming Karl Lagerfeld—Paris, disco, fashion, the ’70s, yesssss; and I finally watched Summer of Soul, a fantastic doc about the 1969 Harlem Cultural Festival, directed by Questlove, all on Hulu!). Fortuna was the cutest cabin companion, she really got into it this time with her daily walks in the backyard. Here’s a fun video of her summer vacation.
I got so lucky with the weather this year, it was pretty dreamy and hit 77–81 degrees almost the whole time—which meant I got to ride my Mom’s vintage 10-speed Bertin bike to my favorite peaceful beach every day, swim in the crystal clear and downright bracing water (it definitely felt a bit more chilly this year), and I managed to read two books while soaking up the afternoon sun. Lots of daydreaming and microdosing. A sad part was watching the billowing plume of smoke across the lake from the Davis Fire south of Reno the past few days—fire season is such a heartbreak.
I finally feel like I had a proper taste of summer—I was spending too much time in our cool grey city of love, and when I had to cancel two of my warm weather getaways, I started going a little stir-crazy. I couldn’t stand reading all the end-of-summer food articles—I was like, shut up, I haven’t even grilled any burgers or corn yet! I think I managed to eat a peach every day (with a whole lot of tomatoes and burrata and eggplant and figs), thanks to Tahoe City’s fabulous weekly farmers’ market. And besides, September and Rocktober are SF’s finest months, so here’s to an endless summer.
I was supposed to drive home on Sunday, but when the weather app kept showing 77 in the forecast, I had to stay over and squeeze in a couple more days. Because: YOLO. It was just too beautiful up there, so I decided to swap my deadline for a better tan line. Hilariously, the cabin Wi-Fi kept going out my last couple days, it was like the universe was telling me to just go to the beach already. OK, fine!
Fortunately, SF is a wonderful city to return to (so pretty today!), and besides, I have something big to celebrate: this month marks my 30th year in San Francisco! I can’t believe I moved into this apartment in September 1994. What a time. I have more to say about all this, but for now, I am definitely feeling the feels!
When it was my 20th SF anniversary, I met up with some longtime friends at bars we used to hang out at, like Club Deluxe and the Palace Hotel and Tony Nik’s. I think it’s time for me to plan another progressive evening of barhopping and tablehopping and dancing.
Here’s to all the memories, past and future. I have been living my best SF life for 30 years, and you are a big part of it.
Thank you, love you! 😘🥂
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Nari Is Launching a New Lunchtime Khao Soi Pop-Up This Weekend
Some exciting news for my fellow khao soi lovers: chef-owner Pim Techamuanvivit of Nari and Kin Khao is launching a khao soi shop pop-up at Nari on Friday and Saturday afternoons, starting this Friday September 13th. Anyone who has enjoyed Pim’s khao soi at Kin Khao (whether at the downtown location or when Kin Khao had a location in Dogpatch) will be happy to be able to enjoy it at Nari’s more central location in Japantown, along with some other dishes on the compact lunch menu.
Nari’s tropical-chic dining room is so beautiful during the day with its many windows and plants and tall ceiling—it’s like being inside a greenhouse, which inspired Pim to want to offer lunch so guests could enjoy it. But starting full lunch service would require even more labor, which poses many challenges these days. So, Pim came up with the idea of utilizing Nari’s mezzanine space as the perfect and flexible location for this lunch pop-up. There are all kinds of seating options on the upstairs mezzanine, from the lounge area to the bar, and private rooms.
Khao soi is a Northern Thai noodle dish in an aromatic curry broth. Pim’s khao soi is made with her housemade curry paste, and the coconut broth is infused with spices that will wake up your palate, but it’s not too spicy—that’s what their special accompanying nam mun prik chile oil is for (you can dial your bowl to your preferred heat level).
She has the egg noodles made to her specifications by Mon Sing Noodle Company—they’ve been making noodles in San Francisco since 1932, first in Chinatown, and now in Bayview. (And if you eat gluten-free, you can order it with rice noodles instead.) The bowl includes torn chicken, pickled mustard greens (which provide a much-needed note of tangy contrast), cilantro, lime, and fried shallot and garlic, topped with a mound of crispy egg noodles. It’s a deeply satisfying bowl that hits all kinds of flavor notes and is quite the crowdpleaser.
At the pop-up, you can swap the traditional torn chicken for some decadent additions, like chicken leg confit, duck leg confit, or short rib confit. A bowl of starts at $19, and goes up from there with the optional premium proteins.
Another dish that that will be appearing on the menu was briefly at Kin Khao Dogpatch and was a hit with the neighborhood: maesai noodle, a dish from Chiang Rai in Northern Thailand. It’s a similar set to the khao soi, but instead of the spicy coconut curry, it’s a lighter pork-based broth made from a tomato and pork relish that is loaded with umami, and an aromatic curry paste that isn’t quite as spicy. (But again, you can add their nam mun prik chile oil, to dial things up.)
And here’s another tasty treat on the menu: their fried chicken sandwich with sriracha mayo. I enjoyed it at a Bubb Club event, and let me tell you, there’s a reason it’s very popular at Kin Khao. There will be a couple cocktails and spritzes, along with wine, so you can make it a proper fun lunch, and there’s even a surprise bite for dessert. They want to make it easy and affordable for guests to come by for a bowl and a glass of something-something in such a cool space.
Served Fri–Sat 12pm–2:30pm. Enter on Post Street (the door is across the street from Daeho) and walk up to the mezzanine. 1625 Post St. at Laguna.
Upcoming Changes at Eight Tables by George Chen
A tablehopper reader let me know about some changes at Eight Tables by Geroge Chen—chef Floyd Nunn is no longer with the China Live group (who came on in July 2019 from Quince), and the restaurant is temporarily closed. I reached out to chef-proprietor George Chen for details, and his team forwarded this statement: “Eight Tables by George Chen is currently undergoing a reconceptualization. We look forward to reopening soon with a new chef and a revised menu.” It’s such a beautiful space and unique experience there, I look forward to hearing what Chen dreams up next. 8 Kenneth Rexroth Pl.
Quick News Updates
I was thrilled to hear Lindsay and Michael Tusk will be reopening the City’s chicest wine bar, Verjus, in October. They announced the reopening on Instagram, and according to the Chronicle, “When it reopens this fall, Verjus will no longer have a retail wine shop. Details about food were not yet available, but Michael Tusk and executive chef Walker Stern are working on a menu ‘that’s in keeping with the original Verjus framework,’ Lindsay Tusk said.” Stand by for more. 550 Washington St. at Montgomery.
I was sorry to see this post from Sam and Suzanne of Bartavelle Coffee & Wine Bar in Berkeley that they are closing after almost 12 years of business on Sunday September 15th. As for why they’re closing, they share: “We expect this may come as a big shock to many of you, but the fact is that even a seemingly busy restaurant is operating on razor thin margins and it’s gotten exponentially harder since the pandemic.” It’s a tough one. They launched a GoFundMe so they can make final payroll and pay their vendors, and they just posted about their final hours this week: “We’re open 8-3 every day for cafe service (kitchen closes at 2pm). Wednesday, Thursday and Friday we will reopen at 5 for bar sardine. 5-9pm wine bar vibes.” Tip big. 1621 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley.
Expansions Around Town
Another Cow Hollow Redux
I previously reported on the update at The Brixton on Union, and now Palm House just did a revamp for their tenth anniversary, with a new look and new menus. They have reimagined the space to be reminiscent of a 70s beach bungalow, with vacation-inspired menus (including a special late-night menu Fri–Sat 10pm–1am) designed to go with their list of cocktails (which includes a Palm Whip Slush, their spin on the Disney Dole Whip). There are also new weekly events, and their “Work From Palm” offer welcomes workers Tue–Fri from 12pm–4pm, with complimentary coffee (with purchase), high-speed Wi-Fi, and a sunny patio to work from.
To kick off the relaunch, they are giving away 100 of their brand-new, jerk fried chicken sandwiches to the first dine-in guests to order it starting at noon this Friday September 13th. 2032 Union St. at Buchanan.
Joy of Pizza Author to Take Over Ovens at Flour + Water Pizzeria for Fall Pop-Up
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On Monday October 14th, Flour + Water Pizzeria in North Beach will be hosting a one-night-only pop-up featuring acclaimed chef Dan Richer of Jersey City’s award-winning Razza pizzeria. Richer (who also wrote The Joy of Pizza and has appeared on more than a few best of lists and T.V. shows) is teaming up with Flour + Water’s own Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow to create a four-course menu inspired by the early fall bounty of Northern California’s farm-fresh ingredients.
Antipasti, salad, and bread courses (including Razza’s famous cultured butter) will be followed by a choice of four pizzas: Early Girl Margherita; Corn Pie (mozzarella, shaved onion, fermented chile paste); Funghi (mozzarella, chanterelles, shaved onion, Parmigiano); or Santo (tomato sauce, mozzarella, pork sausage, shaved onions, chile oil), and guests will be able to substitute Flour + Water’s gluten-free crust to have with Richer’s toppings if need be. Wine and cocktails crafted by the F +W team will also be available, and the special pizzas will also be offered to-go while supplies last.
Reservations for the evening (with seatings starting at 5pm) will be available here beginning on Thursday September 12th at 9am (AMEX Global Dining members can book now) and the $95 experience also comes with a copy of The Joy of Pizza and a box of Flour + Water dried pasta. Monday October 14th. 5pm–10pm. 532 Columbus Ave. at Stockton.
the lush
Pinkies Up! This Week Is San Francisco Queer Cocktail Week!
This week is the first inaugural San Francisco Queer Cocktail Week, with a variety of events at participating bars (Propagation, Casements, Grace @ SFMOMA, Zhuzh, Kung Fu Action Theater, and 620 Jones) and a cocktail competition (the winner receives $600, cocktail submissions due at Propagation this Thursday!).
Starting Thursday September 12th is a vermouth masterclass with Carpano at Propagation (free to attend) 1pm–3pm, a hosted happy hour at Propagation at 4pm–7pm, and an opening party at Casements (9pm–late); Friday 9/13 is an industry luncheon at Grace @ SFMOMA (1pm–4pm) and a disco happy hour at Zhuzh (7pm–10pm); Saturday 9/14 is The Proper Martini by Trevin Hutchins (2024 Michelin Guide California Exceptional Cocktail Award Winner) at Propagation (1pm–3pm) and SFQCW all-day voting and special queer happy hour at Propagation (4pm–7pm), with late night happy hour at Kung Fu Action Theater (9pm–12am); and Sunday 9/15 is the Queer Marketplace & Closing Party at 620 Jones (3pm–7pm), when the cocktail competition winner is announced ($600 prize). Cheers, queers!
the socialite
This Weekend: Mid-Autumn Festivals
Saturday September 14th is the sixth annual Bay Area Chuseok Festival, which celebrates Korea’s mid-autumn harvest holiday. There will be food vendors and trucks offering traditional Korean and fusion food, live music and dance performances, family-friendly activities, and more. It takes place on Presidio Main Parade Lawn from 11am–4pm. The Festival drew over 15,000 attendees last year!
Chinatown is hosting an Autumn Moon Festival all weekend (September 14th–15th), with entertainment, food vendors, mooncakes, kids’ activities, lion dancing, a dumpling eating contest, and more! 11am–5pm. Grant Ave. between California and Broadway.
The SF Cheese Fest Returns to Bring You Cheesy Joy
Next Saturday September 21st is the ninth annual SF Cheese Fest at San Francisco Ferry Building Grand Hall. The festival focuses on California producers, but this year will include cheesemakers from the West, including Washington and Utah. 19 artisan cheesemakers will showcase their acclaimed creations, including Beecher’s Handmade Cheese (WA), Beehive Cheese (UT), Bellwether Farms, Bohemian Creamery, Central Coast Creamery, Cowgirl Creamery, Cypress Grove, Fiscalini Farmstead, Laura Chenel, Marin French Cheese Co., Mt. Eitan Cheese, Nicasio Valley Cheese Co., Pennyroyal Farm, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co., Rumiano Cheese Co., Shaft’s Cheese & Co., Tomales Farmstead Creamery, Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery, and Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers.
New cheeses being introduced at SF Cheese Fest include: Pear, Wine and Rosemary Goat Cheese, Laura Chenel; Prospector Triple Crème Brie with Black Truffle, Marin French Cheese Co.; Heatwave goat milk cheese with Mendocino-grown piment d'Espelette, Bohemian Creamery; Fennel Blue and Truffle Brie, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.; and Foggy Morning with Jalapeño, Nicasio Valley Cheese Co.
The cheeses will be paired with preserves, chocolates, and charcuterie, along with local wine and beer. Guests will enjoy a gorgeous view of the San Francisco Bay, live music by Brooke & Mike, and a grazing table designed and assembled on-site by Alyssa Gilbert of Ollie’s American Cheese + Provisions (Oakland), co-sponsored by Gourmet Imports.
VIP tickets ($148) get guests in an hour early (5pm) and a personal cheese sommelier will take you and a small group of fellow cheese enthusiasts for a curated tour featuring three distinguished cheesemakers that begins and ends with a “best bite” pairing.
Main event is 6pm–9pm, $98 per person. This event is the primary fundraiser for the California Artisan Cheese Guild, so thank you for your support. Ferry Building Grand Hall, 1 Ferry Building.
