what’s cookin’
Are we really in the last few days of February? The Oscars are on Sunday? Everything feels like a blur. Another blur was the James Beard Foundation Taste America SF Bay Area event on Sunday—a blur of delicious! So much caviar and tasty bites from talented chefs and caffeinated espresso drinks (eeeeee!)—I just posted a recap on @tablehopper. I was happy to see a number of well-executed non-alcoholic drinks at the event (more of this, please), including the salty New-groni from Sipeos. It was also a treat to run into so many readers and industry friends, which led to a fun story for today’s column.
I’ve been loving the weather—last week, I took an SF Neon walking tour of the Marina and Cow Hollow (I think I have now taken all their SF tours!) and had a late dinner perched at the bar at A16, which is always a blast—you never know who you’re going to run into or meet. Longtime A16 somm Tim Baumann is like a wine bartender, and keeps guests educated and their glasses full. I kicked off my celebration of tablehopper’s 19th birthday with some Le Marchesine Audens Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero (I need more of this in my life) and the arrabbiata pizza (tomato, pancetta, mozzarella di bufala, grana padano, red onion, Calabrian chile) was perfetto. The only thing I was angry about is I ate the whole thing, ha. This Thursday is Tre Bicchieri, so A16 and every other Italian restaurant in town with a good wine list is going to be busy this week.
Friday, I was on the road early for an adventure outside of Sacramento to visit Tsar Nicoulai’s sturgeon farm and learn about the many levels of their sustainable practices—we even got to watch how they process caviar. It was quite the in-depth tour, and I look forward to sharing more! Sturgeon are so trippy—and prehistoric! We ended the day with a seacuterie board (have you tried Tsar Nicoulai’s Cajun smoked sturgeon?), and a roe and caviar tasting alongside three cuvées from Domaine Carneros was truly the perfect pairing of two of my favorite sustainable California producers. 🥂 Cheers to that!
So, I need to wrap this intro up. My damn laptop is on the fritz again, and I need to contact Apple support before my hard drive melts down. The spinning ball of death is making me crazy, and nervous. I needed to get this column sent before I pop the hood, because you never know how long the support call is going to be. This poor computer gets no rest. Same goes for me.
Thanks for all the sweet notes about tablehopper’s nineteenth birthday last week, mwah! Appreciate you!
With love,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
One of the City’s Oldest Barbecue Pitts Has Fired Back Up at Let’s Eat BBQ in Bayview
If you’re wondering where that enticing smoky smell is coming from on Third Street in Bayview, it’s likely wisping from the recently reopened Let’s Eat BBQ & More, which has been closed since 2019, and has quite the comeback story. Owner Monique Hayes—who was raised in the Fillmore and Western Addition, until she moved to Bayview over 20 years ago—originally opened Let’s Eat BBQ with her husband, Mr. Lee, back in 2011. They were known as Nana and Papa, and were famous for their brisket, links, and peach cobbler.
The location was once Archie’s BBQ, and famous for its tiled and well-seasoned pitt smoker, which is over fifty years old, and one of the last remaining barbecue pitts in the City. Sadly, Monique had to close the business when Mr. Lee passed away in 2019. Mr. Lee (Andrew Thornton, Sr.) was a well-known figure in Bayview, working at Sam Jordan’s (the oldest Black-owned bar in the City), and he owned the Horse and Cow Bar with his friend Steve, and Bayview Triple T Bait Shop with his brothers Lester Thomas, Jr. and Woodrow Thomas. He was a Kansas City native, and one of the founding members of the 3rd Street Big Boys, which sponsored and supported many programs for the neighborhood and helped get kids to college, and they hosted an annual Back to School BBQ. Monique says he always gave back to the community.
After her husband’s death, the pandemic hit seven months later, and then Ms. Monique had to care for her mother, who had a stroke and sadly passed in 2023. But she did what she could to keep the space over the years, using her personal savings with the hope and determination to get through heartbreaking times and reopen Let’s Eat BBQ at some point.
With the NBA All-Star Game coming to San Francisco, Monique was inspired to get the doors softly open, with her brother, Mr. Marvin Enson, as the pitt master, and other family members lending a hand. She soft-opened Let’s Eat BBQ on February 14th, which she forgot was her wedding anniversary, until she started receiving texts that day from friends and family. She knows Mr. Lee was with her.
They’re currently offering chicken (smoked chicken is such a treat—I ordered a thigh), housemade links (these were a standout), smoky brisket, and meaty pork ribs (my second favorite—Monique says they sell themselves) from the pitt. I requested a four-meat plate so I could taste it all, with both sauces (hot and mild) on the side. The sauces have some deep flavor and just the right amount of heat—she uses three kinds of onions in the sauces, and a little bit of garlic, too, and layers in some herbs. (Damn good on the brisket, which needed a little sauce love.)
You can choose two housemade sides, including Monique’s flavorful baked beans (a must), potato salad, killer greens, and mac and cheese. I’m glad I waited for her to finish making the potato salad, which reminded me of my grandmother’s cooking. I asked Monique about her cooking background, and she says she grew up in the kitchen, and thanks her grandmother from Arkansas for her cooking skills and techniques. My maternal grandmother was also from Arkansas, so that’s why the potato salad was giving me the feels.
Everything had such a homemade touch—her tangy potato salad is hand-mixed, giving it that just-right texture of creamy but still a little chunky with pieces of egg, with a zip of mustard and relish. The baked beans had wonderful flavor—she said she bakes B&M beans with molasses, mustard, brown and white sugar, and love—you can taste it. The greens were fantastic—she uses vegetable stock, so they are vegetarian, with bell pepper, garlic powder, and a little kick of Creole seasoning, plus Mrs. Dash (there she is). Monique says, “It’s a dance in the kitchen” when she cooks, adding just the right amount of seasoning and ingredients. She’s still tweaking the mac and cheese to get the gooey-cheesy factor to where she wants it. But really, everything was so tasty—it was like being invited to a family barbecue.
Plates start at $25 (with two sides)—you can get two meats for $35, three for $40, and a rib for $5. She is still working out the pricing (and sourcing) during the soft opening.
There are cupcakes from Joyce Jordan (I loved the sweet potato, and there’s also red velvet), and she will be making sweet potato pie and 7UP cake soon. Monique said she will be making Mr. Lee’s favorite peach cobbler herself.
Let’s Eat BBQ has a full liquor license, and they’ll be launching Mr. Lee’s happy hour (3pm–7pm), with signature drinks named after bars on Third Street. (So clever, love it!)
I had fun sitting at a table, seeing folks come in after church, and watching a grinning customer pick up his order—he said he had just enjoyed a plate for dinner the night before, and his beaming smile said everything.
Monique is understandably overwhelmed trying to get everything back up and running, but she’s taking it day by day, and will be getting some help from chef Kevin Tucker, who was previously at the nearby Old Skool Cafe. They are ramping up for the grand opening that will be happening in March. For now, soft-opening hours are Thu–Sun 12pm–8pm. Welcome back, Let’s Eat BBQ. Thanks to Earl at EDoT for the great news. 5130 3rd St. at Shafter.
Bar Shoji Slides Open One of Its First Screen Doors, and Surprise, Chef Intu-on Kornnawong Is Working with Chef-Owner Ingi “Shota” Son
While I was at the James Beard Foundation Taste America event on Sunday, and eating one of the best bites of the night from chef Intu-on Kornnawong, I noticed a sign on her table denoting the new Bar Shoji at 140 New Montgomery Street. I asked about the sign, and she told me she’s part of this new project opening in the former Trou Normand from chef-owner Ingi “Shota” Son of Michelin-starred The Shota. (There was some ABC permit activity back in 2024, but project details were slim.)
Kornnawong was most recently at Jo’s Modern Thai, until she resigned when things went sideways with the owner last October, and took some time to travel to her native Thailand for a month. She was planning to do some private cheffing for a bit, but chef Ingi Son reached out about doing something at Bar Shoji since he has wanted to work with her (Intu-on’s husband—who is Japanese American—formerly worked with Son at Okane, part of Omakase Restaurant Group).
What Intu-on and Ingi’s collaboration will be is going to be determined in the future, but for now, Kornnawong will be working for chef Son on Bar Shoji’s restaurant and bar opening, which may feature...
First, Bar Shoji has soft-opened during the day, offering highly detailed specialty coffee and tea service, under the direction of José Garcia, formerly at Blue Bottle and SPRO. Per Bar Shoji’s post today: “It’s not just about quality beans, gear, syrups, and milks—it’s about how and why the coffee is served. Shoji’s cafe program is about sharing our love for both traditional and modern coffee, as well as tea, with you. Through carefully curated local and international partnerships, we prepare these special offerings to highlight the producer’s flavor profiles. We also bring the Japanese practice of omotenashi into our service, ensuring a delicious, intimate, and hospitable experience.” They want to encourage people to come in, sit down, and learn about what they’re pouring—they serve Linea’s organic reserve blend and a rotating single-origin coffee for espresso. (You can geek out more in Eater’s post from today.) The café is open Mon–Fri 7am–3pm.
The next stage of the project will be opening the bar in mid-March, which will serve Japanese-inspired craft cocktails. The bar food menu and restaurant will launch next, which will offer higher-end but casual Japanese dishes on an à la carte menu, a departure from The Shota’s high-end omakase experience. The bar and eventually the restaurant will be open Mon–Fri 4pm–11pm for the soft opening—more on that after they further develop the menu.
The name is a reference to shoji screens, and there is a mural above the bar inspired by the Nijo Castle murals in Kyoto. Stand by for more details in coming weeks. 140 New Montgomery St.
Pacifica’s Rosalind Bakery Is Expanding Its Footprint in SF (Get Ready for Hoagies)
I love hearing a successful Vacant to Vibrant story! Rosalind Bakery is based in Pacifica, and makes one of my very favorite baguettes (I have been missing picking them up from Falletti’s Market in my old ’hood) and originally custom-made a seeded hoagie roll for some famous sandwiches around SF. In October 2023, they opened a shop in the former Paramo Coffee in Embarcadero Four, and thanks to the Vacant to Vibrant program and their landlord, they were able to secure a sweetheart deal on a long-term lease (Rosalind has a five-year lease on their space, and don’t have to start paying rent until February 2026).
Owner Matt Kosoy is so grateful for the Vacant to Vibrant program, and that he was able to create an outpost in SF, serving pastries and viennoiserie that are baked in their Pacifica café and brought to the City (including their naturally leavened/sourdough plain croissant and ham and cheese, pain au chocolat, and a morning bun), with a few of their baguettes and sourdough loaves (which sell out), and espresso drinks (they use Grand Coffee). For now, the low-key café is open Tue–Sat 8am–3pm.
But Kosoy also just secured a second lease! He’s going to open a lunchtime sandwich shop and focacceria at Embarcadero Two on the lobby level. He has developed a menu of sandwiches, all served on Rosalind’s epic hoagie roll. As a salute to his East Coast roots, a Philly garlic roast pork hoagie will be the star (served with a sidecar of au jus)—the idea is to create a connection between a French dip (a Bay Area staple) and the traditional Philadelphia roast pork sandwich. There isn’t a name for the shop yet, but the plan is to open this summer.
Kosoy has been busy with his farmers’ market stands, which now includes Tuesdays and Fridays at Stanford, Thursdays in North Berkeley, and Saturdays in Downtown Berkeley. He said he’s been making some choose-your-own adventure/bread sandwiches, like rosemary ham and European butter, Italian hoagies, house hummus with roasted vegetables, cinnamon sugar toast with Shared Cultures miso butter, housemade Nutella, and a breakfast sandwich with pimento cheese, eggs any style, and add-ons, like mortadella or rosemary ham. Plan on seeing these items at the upcoming shop.
I’ll keep you posted on the new sandwich shop name and opening. And, if you like to invest in expanding businesses, you should hit Matt up.
This One Is for the Bagel Lovers
Last week, I had a couple friends telling me about the Calabrian chile bagel at...
A Tragic Farewell to Curtis Kimball, AKA “The Crème Brûlée Guy,” One of the Originators of San Francisco’s Street Food Movement
Last week, a friend shared the tragic news with me that Curtis Kimball, known as “The Crème Brûlée Guy” (and during the pandemic, he became “The Pancake Guy”) suffered an aortic aneurism, resulting in an emergency open-heart surgery; sadly, he didn’t recover and died on February 19th. He was just 46. So awful.
It’s horrific news that has rocked our local food world—Kimball was a central player in the birth of our street food movement back in 2009, when he set up his cart at locations in Dolores Park and around the Mission, selling crème brûlées to long lines of people. (His brother, Brian, ran the Magic Curry Kart.)
It was the beginning of the intersection of food and technology, back when we used Flickr to post our food pictures (before Instagram was around), and fans would keep up with all the new street food vendor locations on Twitter, from the Sexy Soup Lady, to Gobba Gobba Hey, to Bike Basket Pies. The Girl from Empanada, Paula Tejeda of Chile Lindo, sent me this memory: “Back in the day, I remember listening to the BBC and they were covering the Street Food Movement in SF, which was kind of a product of the 2008–2009 financial crisis, just as Twitter came into the scene… and that’s how folks found out where we were… and the one mentioned was the Crème Brûlée guy. He was huge!!!! Looooong lines for his cart.”
Off the Grid founder Matt Cohen shared this remembrance in a post: “Curtis and I met a year before Off the Grid even existed, and he was one of the first to believe in OTG, showing up at our very first event at Fort Mason Center and shaping what we’ve built ever since. His humor, wit, and generosity became a lasting part of OTG. But beyond his impact on the food world, Curtis was a devoted husband and father - soon to have been a father of three. His presence was unforgettable, not just for those who knew him personally, but for the entire Bay Area food community. I hope that by sharing his story here more people can understand his incredible influence and legacy.”
Kimball sadly leaves such a sweet family: his wife, Nicole Belanger; their two daughters, Harper (7) and Eloise (4); and a baby boy is expected this summer. As you can imagine, any help for the grieving family would be greatly appreciated; here’s their GoFundMe. You can read more about Curtis in this Mission Local post and tribute page. Rest in Pancakes, dear Curtis. Our hearts break for your family, and everyone who knew and loved you.
Chef Updates and Moves
After opening Popi’s Oysterette in the Marina in 2023 with Joe Hargrave, chef-proprietor Melissa Perfit (previously Sister, Ayala, Bar Crudo) has moved on. She’s going to keep me posted on what’s next for her. 2095 Chestnut St. at Steiner.
After departing a Mano in 2023 to join Bacchus Management Group and help open La Connessa (while also overseeing operations at Magic Donut and Louie’s Original), Freedom Rains has returned to a Mano in Hayes Valley as chef-partner. Rains came to SF as a line cook in 2001, working at Boulevard under Nancy Oakes, and then Flour+Water, RN74, Incanto, and Belga in 2015, which is when he began his tenure with Back of the House.
New additions/updates on his menu include spaghetti alle vongole, ricotta meatballs, new pizza toppings, and more. He has also added a mid-day menu, happy hour, and soon, a weekend brunch menu.
Tough Times for Local Businesses
After a massive and costly renovation—and opening less than a year ago—Hoodline reports the Castro’s Fisch & Flore is now for sale via a commercial listing from Compass real estate agent Steven Gerry. I reached out to owner Serhat Zorlu, who clarified for me: “I’m not selling the whole business, I’m actually looking for an investor partner replacing my current business partner.” I really hope things get sorted, they worked so hard on the opening. We have nice weather right now, so go enjoy their brunch and amazing French fries on the patio. 2298 Market St. at Noe.
A friend forwarded a note from Aslam’s Rasoi on Valencia, which just turned 19 (like tablehopper!), and they share: “Like many small businesses, we’re facing financial challenges, and the next two months will determine whether we can keep our doors open. A significant rent increase, along with rising costs, has put us in a difficult position, and we truly need your support to continue doing what we love. If Aslam’s Rasoi has ever been a place you’ve enjoyed, we’d love to see you soon. Whether it’s dining in, ordering takeout, or simply spreading the word, every little bit helps. Your support–now more than ever–means everything to us.” 1037 Valencia St.
The Market, the grocery store in the former Twitter building, is closing this Friday February 28th, after ten-plus years in the Mid-Market area. Vendors in the food hall will remain open. 1355 Market St. [Via SF Chronicle]
the microdoser
the starlet
Bueller? Bueller?
