This week’s tablehopper: prime. (free)

what’s cookin’

Hello, hopper friends! I hope you had a tasty and restful Thanksgiving holiday, although I don’t think most people got to relax until Sunday, once all the cooking and dishes and kitchen cleaning were finally done. I swear, my stock pot got quite the workout with a big batch of turkey stock I made before the feast, and another batch the day after with all the bones and leftover bits, and then on Saturday, I made a huge pot of pozole, which may be my tastiest batch yet (I sort of made a hybrid version from these recipes), so satisfying. But I don’t want to see another turkey neck until next year, basta.

This past weekend, I had a good time putting up my new fuchsia-pink tinsel tree (15-year-old me would totally approve), and I scored the cutest vintage glass tree topper with sis while at the Alameda flea market on Sunday. It’s so fun to see all the vintage ornaments and holiday décor—Christmas used to be so classy. But I kind of felt I was in Palm Springs—who knew we’d actually get hot in the sun while cruising the flea market this weekend? This weather is something else! We’re going to be rain-free for at least another week, and this Saturday is the Oakland Flea Market, and Sunday is the big Christmas show at the French Market Marin. Go do it!

This weekend, sis and I will be painting the town red and green during our annual holiday spirits tour around town. If you want to enjoy some holiday cheer of your own, I have some updates for you in today’s column, as well as some gift ideas since I’m no longer doing the hopper holiday gift bag. Real talk: I’m looking forward to being able to savor the holiday season a bit more this year without all that coordinating. But thanks to all of you who supported the gift bag for all these years—I will miss dropping them off to you in person! (That was my favorite part.)

Next week, I’ll be sharing places to go for holiday dinners, and where to score latkes, tamales, panettone, and other holiday treats, plus even more holiday cocktails, and other festive happenings. Elf mode is ON!

Fa-la-la-la-la!
~Champers

*One day after the paid version of this newsletter went out, San Francisco Business Times reported that a former employee of House of Prime Rib has filed a lawsuit against the owners over alleged labor law violations, and the lawsuit is seeking class action status. And this isn’t the first time: “In April 2023, another former employee brought a class action lawsuit against the restaurant, alleging wage and meal period violations.” This news doesn’t leave the best aftertaste.

the chatterbox

The Return of a True SF Classic: North Beach Restaurant Reopens Tonight Under New Ownership

Back in January, I wrote about the new era coming for North Beach Restaurant under new owners Francesco and Monica Covucci and their late business partner, Peter Fazio (Il Casaro Pizzeria, Barbara, California Fish Market, Casaro Osteria)—it’s actually where Covucci and Fazio had their first meal together. North Beach Restaurant closed in 2023, and after buying the restaurant from Leo Petroni (son of Lorenzo Petroni, one of the original founders), Francesco Covucci tells me they thought they were going to reopen with a more modern and upscale Italian concept, but they changed direction after so many North Beach Restaurant regulars were pleading for the restaurant’s well-known and longstanding dishes (many of them Tuscan-American). And if anyone understands nostalgia, it’s an Italian. After 50-plus years of business, Covucci wants to honor what this restaurant means to its past clientele and the neighborhood, with its deep SF roots.

They’re going to be welcoming back many of the legacy dishes, while continuing to offer a classic and old-school experience, with white tablecloths and servers in aprons and ties. Covucci says everyone was asking for the “pasta della casa” so many times that he got in touch with former kitchen staff to find out how they could recreate it faithfully (it’s made with prosciutto, mushrooms, veal, and chardonnay). There will also be past favorites like spicy vodka penne, petrale mugnaia (sautéed with white wine, lemon, and butter sauce), and the Fiorentina steak. (Personally, I hope the superb housemade veal cannelloni stage a comeback.) Some Italian dishes from the Covuccis’ other restaurants will be featured as well, but given an upscale touch here.

This was the kind of restaurant where you’d order a bottle of Brunello with your dinner (original owner Lorenzo Petroni would say, “Life is too short to drink bad wine, so salute!”), so expect to continue to find some elegant Italian selections from the extensive wine cellar.

The two-level restaurant is a big one, with a total capacity for 226. The upstairs main room seats 119, with private rooms like the Prosciutto Room, the Willie Brown Room, and the downstairs Wine Cellar Room has room for 70. Willie Brown used to eat at the restaurant multiple times a week, and Covucci says Da Mayor has been coming by every week to check on the progress—it’s reopening just in time for holiday parties and gatherings. 

The space was given a contemporary upgrade, while maintaining a classic look with old-school touches. There are spacious booths and banquettes outfitted in olive green, with tobacco chairs, and dark wood floors in the upstairs room under the galleria-style barrel ceiling. The cherry wood wainscoting throughout the restaurant and the granite-topped bar remain, as well as all the custom wood cabinets and niches in the downstairs cellar room (which was given a refresh).

Last night (December 3rd) was the ribbon-cutting, and the restaurant will be open nightly for dinner 5pm–10pm. Coming in a week will be brunch/lunch service Fri–Sun, starting at 12pm. Time to plan some power lunching (and holiday get-togethers). 1512 Stockton St. at Green.

Get Ready to Shake the Highly Capable Hands of the New Owner of Tommaso’s

Another era is also beginning at nearby Tommaso’s Ristorante Italiano, on the border of North Beach and Jackson Square. Earlier this year, the Crotti family (Carmen, Agostino, and Anna Crotti) confirmed they were retiring after owning the beloved family restaurant for 51 years (since 1973!), and said they were going to sell it to the right buyer, but they didn’t say who they were passing the torch to. 

The family announced their last night of running the restaurant would be December 15th, 2024, so my dear friend and I went in for a “final” dinner a couple weeks ago to say our goodbyes to this old-school neighborhood favorite. Funnily enough, we were greeted by Maureen “Mo” Donegan, who was previously the GM of North Beach Restaurant, and after chatting for a while, she revealed she’s the new owner of Tommaso’s. Wow! Mo has some deep SF industry roots (she worked at Postrio back in the day), and has the kind of understanding about legacy businesses that you only get through years of F&B experience. 

What’s fantastic is Donegan truly adores and cherishes the singular style of Tommaso’s, and wants to preserve its legacy and honor its history, while taking it into its next era of ownership. After Tommaso’s closes December 16th, it will be getting a new paint job and some light refreshing (although that tiny bathroom is thankfully getting more than a little attention), and the plan is to reopen on January 7th. The Crotti family will be taking some of their memorabilia, but the majority of the restaurant’s iconic décor will remain. Whew. I’m so glad the Crottis held out for the right new owner—I really couldn’t bear to lose this deeply rooted Italian family restaurant (and its precious booths and murals), which has been an icon in SF for over 80 years.

Did you know the historic brick pizza oven was the first wood-fired pizza oven in the neighborhood, and reportedly the first on the West Coast?! If you’re a supporting subscriber, you can read my former archivist piece about the storied location, which is where the Cantalupo family opened Lupo’s Famous Pizzeria and Neapolitan Restaurant in 1935.

Donegan says the staff is staying (many have been there for decades), and they’re keeping the same menu, but will be making some tweaks here and there, and she’ll be doing specials and desserts. I’m so grateful this North Beach time capsule will continue to make memories for people, and grazie mille to the Crotti family and their team for all their years of service and hospitality at this truly “only in SF” gem. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

The Hopper Holiday Gift Guide

It’s maximum gift-giving time, and a great time to support local businesses and makers. Here are some food- and restaurant-related gift ideas for you, and I’ll be suggesting some seasonal food items next week that also make great gifts, like panettone.

Of course, I have to suggest gifting someone a subscription to tablehopper! It fits everyone, and doesn’t require a trip to the post office or gift wrap or finding a box. Help someone live their best SF life, which they will be thanking you for over the year to come! Take advantage of this week’s Holiday Hopper Sale for 30 percent off an annual subscription ($104.30/year, for new subscribers/gift subscriptions only)!

If you want to gift a subscription, just drop me a line (hit reply to this email) and I can manually get it set up for you since we’re experiencing a small technical bug at the moment. (And it’s also a huge gift to me, so thanks! I am so appreciative of all your support. 🙏)

When I was moving to my new apartment last month, I brought over a box of what remains of the tablehopper vintage restaurant and bar t-shirts (including a couple XS sweatshirts of the Blue Fox), and a few of the spacious and custom pizza tablehopper totes (enjoy your delicious moments!). Check them out here! Thanks for repping tablehopper with some merch!

So, this may seem obvious, but here’s a reminder that restaurant gift certificates are always appreciated, by the restaurant and the recipient! There’s nothing like having a GC in your pocket to spend on a tasty meal out. Such a treat.

This Saturday December 7th is a perfect day to head to Foodwise’s Ferry Plaza Farmers Market at the Ferry Building for Pop-Ups on the Plaza: Black Holiday Market. There will be over 15 Black food and craft makers, in partnership with the Fillmore-based, Black-led marketplace In The Black. From small-batch jams and hot sauces, to skincare, candles, accessories, apparel, and more, you can support Bay Area Black entrepreneurs while picking up some hella special gifts! 9am–2pm.

When Hawaii-based Banán opened in June in Noe Valley with their totally awesome 🤙 banana-based desserts and smoothies, I instantly fell in love with their macadamia nut honey butter that is available as one of their toppings, made with macadamias from Hawaii and California wildflower honey. I was like, “Yo, you guys should sell this separately, it’s amazing!” and they said they do, but it’s only available when they make it for super-limited drops. Well, guess what, that time is now, and they just whipped up a batch you can buy at the shop! It’s so good on toast, I added a scoop on my morning oatmeal, and you will enjoy a spoonful on its own as a snack (or even better, with a banana). Fun trivia: Sarah Jessica Parker loves it! A jar is $20, and you can swing by their shop to pick one up while supplies last (as well as their seasonal Banán peppermint sundae while you’re there!). 3662 24th St. at Vicksburg.

No one is ever mad at a box of bonbons, especially one that does good for underserved youth. Keegan’s Caramels is offering their holiday boxes of bonbons and caramels, and all profits are donated to Sprouts Chef Training, which will support culinary training and job placement for talented Bay Area and NYC youth in need; Keegan’s Caramels will also be matching every dollar spent (up to $5,000). This year’s holiday flavors include crunchy cornflake bonbons, strawberry bonbons, toasted coconut marshmallow bark, milk & dark chocolate caramels, pecan caramels, and coffee caramels, along with other flavors that are available. You can customize your chocolate boxes or enjoy pre-selected holiday bundles, and there are a variety of sizes. Order by December 9th for delivery December 13th–20th, or shop in person at California farmers’ markets: Holiday Village at Bay Street in Emeryville (December 6th–8th), and the Holiday Market in Berkeley (December 14th–15th).

Here’s another gift that also shows support… So, last year was the final hopper holiday gift bag, wah-wah, but if you’re looking for a unique gift box with a variety of SF goodies, check out the La Cocina Gift Boxes! Each box is packed with a curated selection of delicious, locally made, packaged foods from talented La Cocina entrepreneurs. In fact, some items from past hopper holiday gift bags are included, like the incredible chocolate-covered alfajores from Sabores del Sur. Choose from three gift box sizes, ranging from $50–$100. Be sure to order by December 16th to ensure delivery before December 25th!

Looking for something stronger? There’s nothing like having a special bottle to toast someone over the holidays, and here’s a release from Hotaling & Co. Distillery that is truly the spirit of SF: Old Potrero Christmas Spirit 12-year-old whiskey. Wait, what? Yup, San Francisco Christmas Spiced Ale from 2011 was distilled twice in copper pot stills, before aging for 12 years in once-used Old Potrero Straight Rye Whiskey barrels, and here it is, making its limited debut in 2024. While it has already sold out in Hotaling’s online shop, I do see some inventory at D&M and Blackwell’s Wine & Spirits, hop to it! Cheers!

Yellow Moto Pizzeria Is Spinning Its Last Neapolitan-Style Pizzas This Saturday, Chadwick’s in the Castro Has Closed

Over the weekend, Yellow Moto Pizzeria in the Mission announced their upcoming closure, which will be after service on Saturday December 7th (first reported by The Chronicle). Owner David White and his dedicated team have tried to navigate tough times since their opening in 2019, from the pandemic to the changing business climate on Valencia Street (and in general), but eventually had to throw in the towel. Their farewell post says, “We love our neighborhood, and we believe in it, and we know that eventually it will come back. We wish everyone in our wonderful community the very best as you navigate the ongoing path to recovery. And we thank all our customers who chose us and who came back again and again.” 702 Valencia St. at 18th St.

Over in the Castro, Hoodline reports Chadwick’s has closed their bakery after almost three years of business serving their dough boys, fun buns, and focaccia. 2375 Market St.

the lush

Have Fun Getting Into Some Holiday Spirits 

Okay, all you naughty and nice elves, we have hopefully finished our turkey leftovers, and now it’s time to grab some friends and head out for some festive cheer. Here are some spots around town that really get into the holiday spirit (and spirits). But just consider this an initial warm-up! I’ll be sharing more soon—me ’n sis (aka Champers and Biscuit) are heading out this weekend for our annual elfing night on the town, so I will report back on any new spots we try! (You can also look at my list of festive places last year, and I imagine most of them are in effect. Just check before heading over, because you never know…)

Top of my to-hit list this year is to finally try the Eggnogs Around the World Menu at Churchill in Duboce Triangle/Upper Market. The menu highlights different international destinations, from Carnival Christmas (Venezuela) to Churchill’s Nog (bourbon, allspice) and the Amor Amargo (Amaro Montenegro). They also serve hot buttered rum, a winter Scotch Old Fashioned, Oaxacan hot chocolate, and a Cognac and ginger hot toddy. The bar really gets into the spirit with some festive holiday décor as well. 198 Church St. at Market.

While you’re doing any shopping downtown or Union Square Winter Wander-Land activities, you can get refreshed at The Bubble Bar at Press Club, a Champagne and caviar lounge running now through Saturday December 21st. Swing by Mon–Sat 5pm–7pm for complimentary Taittinger Champagne tastes, and you can enjoy a flight of 2 oz. pours of Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé, Taittinger Le Française Brut Champagne, and Taittinger Les Folies De La Marquetterie Brut Champagne for $40. Pair your bubbles with bumps of The Caviar Co. Classic White Sturgeon Caviar for $15, or enjoy full service with housemade blinis, potato crisps, crème fraîche, and chives (1oz: $65; 2oz: $130). You can also buy caviar gift packs and wines to go. The Bubble Bar service starts at 4pm.

Another pitstop before or after your downtown holiday shopping is Winter Wonderland at The Vault Garden, a fully tented outdoor space with even more festive decor, eight themed cocktails, and all-new electric heating to celebrate its fifth year. Enjoy a view of the massive 555 California Christmas tree while sipping on a Happy Tonight (green Chartreuse, Abuelita chocolate, cinnamon, piloncillo brown sugar, whole milk; served hot). Winter Wonderland is running through the end of the year. 555 California St.

At Causwells in the Marina, partner/beverage director Elmer Mejicanos always gets deep into the holiday spirits, and is currently offering a menu of 15 holiday cocktails that are never short on creativity and awesome presentation. I’m curious to try the Winter Wonderland (Roe & Co. Whiskey, passion fruit, Select aperitif, egg white, Xmas lights; $18), and there’s ube eggnog (also available N/A). Frosty’s Frozen Cocktails include Elvis Christmas (Sir Davis whiskey, banana, peanut, oloroso sherry, oat milk, nilla wafer; $18), which works during this balmy weather, and there are two hot cocktails for those of you who want to pretend it’s a cold winter. Available now through the end of the year. 2346 Chestnut St.

Little Bird Lands in Downtown Oakland

by Savannah Leone Bundy

From consultant Jennifer Seidman (Acme Bar & Co. in Berkeley) and owners Alfredo Botello, Trevor Latham, and Tim Tolle comes a new concept aiming to help revitalize Oakland’s downtown. Little Bird—located in the former Radio Bar on 13th Street—is a neighborhood gathering place that hopes to provide a safe and relaxing space for the whole community, especially women. With colorful, bird-inspired decor, hand-crafted cocktails, local beer, and daily happy hours, Little Bird should be a comfortable nest for Oaklanders. 

Signature cocktails include spirit-forward concoctions like the LB Martini (vodka or gin, pickle brine, pickle and pepper garnish; $16), Birds in Beirut (vodka, Tabasco, lemon, bleu cheese–stuffed olive; $16), and Blue Bird Sour (vodka, Hypnotiq, lemon, egg white; $16). The zero-proof menu includes a combination of sweet (the Berryly Legal features strawberry brine and simple syrup mixed with lemon and seltzer) and savory options (Green Roots has green bean and rutabaga brines with fish sauce). Happy hour (every day from 4pm–6pm) offers $2 off of house cocktails, beers, and wines; $6 well drinks; and a $10 boilermaker special. Open Mon–Sun 4pm–2am. 435 13th St. at Broadway. 

the archivist