what’s cookin’
Happy Valentine’s Day, loves! Can you believe everything going on right now? It’s such a busy week of events. I had a wonderful time celebrating the Lunar New Year in Chinatown this past weekend (check out my video of the lively fireworks show in the street—not in a Waymo—and we had a fantastic dinner at Fusion Dumpling), and now today is Mardi Gras (dinner at The Front Porch, Voodoo Love, CreoLa, or Brenda’s Meat & Three would be a good time). Wednesday is Valentine’s Day (not like you could forget, ha-ha, it’s everywhere) and did you know you can buy yourself a cute bouquet of daffodils at Trader Joe’s for $2.99, who loves you? Me! I also have a few more last-minute tips in the socialite for you below.
We have an upcoming long weekend for Presidents’ Day, woohoo, and I’m going to do something a little different over here and actually enjoy the three-day weekend like everyone else! You’ll receive the hopper newsletter a day later (on Wednesday February 21st), which will actually be tablehopper’s 18th birthday, if you can believe it! Since 2006, baby! Look who’s all grown up and becoming an adult—I’m glad she can finally vote. Thank you for getting us to this landmark birthday. And I can’t wait to tell you about the upcoming party, it’s coming together! (Supporting subscribers will get first crack at tickets.)
In the meantime, I hope to see you at the upcoming Villa Albertine Night of Ideas at the SF Public Library on Saturday March 2nd: “Exploring the theme Fault Lines: Outside the Lines, experiences throughout the library will look at the points of rupture and connection, the lines that bound and bridge our world across urban, green and digital spaces—and how we can think outside them.” It’s a full day and night of many interesting talks, screenings, performances, and more, and I helped assemble a dream team panel at 8pm: Choppin’ It Up: Black Food in the Bay with Bryant Terry, 4 Color Books; Fernay McPherson, Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement; and Dontaye Ball, Gumbo Social. We have much to discuss. I hope to see you there! Tickets are free, register here.
I can’t believe the wave of soggy weather we have coming—I’m so glad I took a break from my currently insane workload and went to the beach on Saturday for a stroll in the sun and sand with my beach buddy. What a stunning winter’s day. (And since I was in the Outer Sunset, I picked up some hoagies from Palm City to enjoy at home for my desk dinner and lunch the next day!) Ahhhhh, I love you, San Francisco. Always full of surprises and sand dollars. I know Sunday was a huge downer for sports fans and the City overall—there was such a deflated feeling in the air. But even though we keep taking it on the chin, we still live in such a remarkable place. Lucky us. Onward and upward.
Keep on truckin’. XOXOXO! 💘
~Marcia (rhymes with Garcia)
the chatterbox
Brunch Bites: Plan a Sunday Funday at the Recently Revamped Eats, and Tahona Mercado Launches a New Saturday Brunch
The next time you’re looking for a Sunday Funday excursion, I’d recommend grabbing a friend or two (or maybe your parents, or kids) and head over to the Clement Street farmers’ market (it’s one of the best in the City) and have brunch at the recently revamped Eats on Clement Street. The affable chef-owner Simon Bryant took over the 48-year-old Inner Richmond restaurant (since 1975!) after it sadly closed in early 2023, and reopened it in late summer last year, all freshened up with a bright white interior, contemporary/mid century–inspired chairs, blond wood tables, milk glass pendant lights, and lots of plants, plus there’s a huge parklet and outdoor tables.
The updated menu features classic brunch dishes done right, made with good technique and ingredient flair. While your table decides what to order, of course, you’re going to share the buttermilk biscuit with whipped butter and honey to start. Whether you crave caramelized custard French toast ($18) with cinnamon-roasted pink lady apples, hot caramel sauce, and whipped crème fraîche, or maybe the maitake soft scramble ($18) is catching your eye (three eggs, roasted maitake mushrooms, Bloomsdale spinach, goat cheese), everything is made with a deft and light hand, from expertly sliced avocado to the fluffy eggs, and all the ingredients were market-fresh (Bryant has a background in farming). You absolutely don’t want to miss a side of the expertly smashed and fried potatoes, or you can request 50/50 (for $1 more) and enjoy a nice side salad, too.
My favorite dish was...
If brunch isn’t exactly your favorite meal of the day, there are some savory lunch dishes like vadouvan curry chickpeas, a buttermilk-brined fried chicken sandwich, and we tried the flattop-grilled lemongrass chicken sandwich ($22), with a vivacious Thai green curry, pickled carrots and daikon, cilantro, Thai basil, shaved Serrano peppers (they packed some punch!), with the option to add a fried egg. Based on how tasty our brunch was, I want to return for the burger next. Great coffee and friendly, on-point service are additional bonuses that make brunch here an extremely pleasant affair.
You can put your name down, and then wander the farmers’ market until it’s time to sit down, and then you can cruise around some more after and walk off your brunch (the Sunday market runs 9am–2pm). Bring home the rich 6 percent whole milk from Alexandre Family Farms (j’adore), some pretty ranunculus flowers from Fifth Crow Farm, and pears from K & J. Open Wed–Mon 8am–2pm. 50 Clement St. at 2nd Ave.
Over in Nob Hill, the fantastic tequila, mezcal, and retail shop, Tahona Mercado, has started offering Saturday brunch service. Say “buenos días” to the menu of...
There’s a New Lunch Menu and Chef at the Palace Hotel
On a rainy day last week, I was invited to a media luncheon at the always-grand The Garden Court at the Palace Hotel, which is unveiling a new lunch menu with some SF ingredient highlights. It’s local Dungeness crab season, so their trademark Green Goddess salad (it was created at the Palace in 1923) with baby lettuce just got a crabby upgrade, and the beet salad with whipped citrus ricotta, Valencia oranges, vanilla vinaigrette, candied pistachios, and micro arugula was also of note. Our table’s hands down favorite was the seared albacore tuna served with stewed leeks, pea shoots, pomelo, and dulse seaweed—it has such a beguiling, multi-dimensional sauce and mi cuit preparation, while the halibut we tried was sadly over-cooked (it happens).
While most of these dishes were developed with the previous culinary team, the Palace Hotel just announced a new executive chef, David Teig, who has more than 25 years of experience, including two years in France, where he worked at Michelin three-star Le Maison de Bricourt. He’s already making updates to the spring menu for the Pied Piper restaurant and bar and The Garden Court, bringing in even more seasonal ingredients, and a wider range of vegetarian and vegan options.
If you have a moment, be sure to visit the recently opened museum near the Pied Piper bar—there are some wonderful photos and ephemera celebrating the landmark hotel’s fascinating history.
While The Garden Court always works swimmingly for ladies who lunch under the 110-year-old glass dome (and will be a lovely spot for Easter brunch), in order to woo back business lunchers, if you’re on a tight schedule, let your server know and they can pace your meal accordingly. Zip zip! Lunch is served Mon–Fri 12pm–2pm and Sat 12pm–4pm. 2 New Montgomery St. at Market.
Two Additions to the Next Generation of Restaurants in Chinatown
Here’s a quick update about an upcoming project I’m excited about: I enjoyed reading Carolyn Jung’s recent article in the SF Examiner about the soon-to-open Four Kings in Chinatown—take a sneak peek at the 36-seat restaurant and more in the piece (and here’s the original story about their pop-up in Eater for even more background on the team). Chefs and co-owners Michael Long and Franky Ho met while working at Mister Jiu’s, and have been hosting sold-out pop-ups with their freestyle Cantonese dishes (think mapo spaghetti with cheddar, fried squab, pig head salad, black bean mussels, and XO butter escargot) and awesomely designed menus for a while; and now they’re gearing up to open their first restaurant with partners Millie Boonkokua and Lucy Li in the former Slurp Ramen in March. Stand by! 710 Commercial St. at Kearny.
While I was in Chinatown on Friday night, my friend and I noticed some new 606 signage and the freshened-up dining room at the former New Sun Hong Kong Restaurant, right on the busy corner of Broadway and Columbus. The Hong Kong-style restaurant dates back to 1989, and just had an update—you can read the backstory (linked below) about the next generation who is taking over this family-run business. The lunch menu posted in the window features $15–$16 rice plates (including four seafood dishes, like salt and pepper calamari), while dinner brings Simon’s garlic chicken (pounded, breaded, and fried!), chicken noodle soup, dry fry beef hor fun, and sweet and sour pork ribs (Hong Kong–style). Open Thu–Tue 11am–9pm. 606 Broadway at Columbus. [Via Chronicle]
New Projects Coming Soon to Parkside and the Castro
In case you’re wondering why you’re smelling clam and garlic pizza, just look for the pointing neon finger (soon): Golden Boy Pizza will be opening a location in Parkside’s former Marco Polo Italian Ice Cream in mid-March. Bring on the Sicilian slices after a day at the beach! I have always loved Marco Polo’s font and facade—fortunately, this beloved scoop shop will reportedly be reopening on Noriega at 46th Avenue this spring. 1447 Taraval St. at 23rd Ave. [Via Chronicle]
The rotating wheel of businesses that open in the former Bagdad Café in the Castro keeps spinning, but maybe this one replacing the latest (Los Amigos Diner) will stick. Hoodline reports Bar 49 is opening in May (or thereabouts), from longtime Castro bar industry worker Colm O’Brien (he was at Hi Tops for 10 years, and Lookout for 3). He will reportedly be offering 49 beer and wine options, plus appetizers and bar snacks. An Instagram post mentions weekend brunch, music videos, and party groups. He’s currently renovating the space, stand by for more soon. 2295 Market St. at Noe.
A Scoop of Something Sweet and Supportive for Black Futures Month
For Black Futures Month, Booker T. Washington Community Service Center partnered with Garden Creamery in the Mission on a special Booker T. and EARTHseed Farm ice cream flavor! Meet Apple Cider Caramel, a tangy and bright apple-forward base with a generous swirl of gooey apple cider caramel made with apple cider sourced from EarthSeed Farm, a Black-led, Afro-Indigenous permaculture farm in Sonoma.
Throughout the full month of February, proceeds from the Apple Cider Caramel flavor will support Booker T.’s food justice programs and sustain 1,500 vulnerable, food-insecure San Franciscans each week by providing them with organic groceries, locally sourced produce, and delicious, hot meals crafted by talented Black chefs. Booker T. is the oldest Black-led and serving organization in San Francisco. This collaboration is the first of their Food to Freedom initiative, which features tasty partnerships with local chefs, food producers, and farmers who align with the values of their food sovereignty program. Make your way over to Garden Creamery and enjoy a scoop (or sundae!) in honor of Black History (and Futures!) Month. 3566 20th St. at Lexington.
Temporary and Permanent Closures
First, the good news: after being short an oven for the past six months, Arizmendi 9th Ave. is getting a new oven installed. Yay! The bad news: they’re going to be closed for about eight weeks for the upgrade, starting Monday February 26th. Stock up on your favorite treats! 1331 9th Ave. at Irving.
Over on Russian Hill, the owners of Berber (Tony Garnicki and Borhen Hammami) have announced the supper club’s upcoming closure after service on Saturday March 2nd. After five years, the North African restaurant and live entertainment venue is sadly shutting its doors for a variety of reasons, including less conference business (Eater mentions some financial issues as well), but for now, they share “we invite you and your loved ones to join us for our final performances—our February calendar is full of live multidisciplinary art to experience and be moved by.” 1516 Broadway at Polk.
the lush
A Twinkling Space for Live Music and Cocktails Opens on Lower Nob Hill
Broc Cellars Is Hosting a Week of Events in Honor of Fox Hill Vineyard
Broc Cellars, the Berkeley-based natural winery, will be hosting a couple events to celebrate their purchase of the unique (and CCOF-certified) Fox Hill Vineyard in Mendocino County (Broc Cellars’ owner-winemaker Chris Brockaway has been sourcing from Fox Hill since 2013).
On Thursday February 15th and Friday February 16th, Bar Broc (1300 Fifth St., Berkeley) will feature specialty wines from Fox Hill Vineyard, as well as those that have served as an inspiration to the vineyard’s winemakers. Wines will be available by the glass or bottle. Open 2pm–7pm, just swing on by.
On Sunday February 18th, Broc Cellars will open their tasting room for a Friends of Fox Hill taste-around-style event, with food and music from the local community to celebrate the special Italian varieties grown at the vineyard. Each winemaker that sources from Fox Hill Vineyard will have their own station where they can answer questions and provide samples. Participating wineries include Ryme Cellars, Idlewild Wines, En Cavale Wine, Jupiter Wine Co., and Ruth Lewandowski. Don't miss this fun opportunity to celebrate Italian-inspired wine and learn more about organic farming from this special vineyard. The food lineup includes Daruma Kiosk (takoyaki), Urelio’s Pizza, and Not Too Sweet Treats, plus music from Berkeley High’s Jazz Band.
Tickets ($40) here include entry and access to sample wines from all six producers. Wines will be available for purchase. 12pm–4pm (club member and industry early entry: 11:30am). 1300 Fifth St. at Gilman, Berkeley.
matchmaker
Fully Equipped Commissary Kitchen for Rent
2,000 square feet. Type 1 hood. Full cooking line. 2 walk-in refrigerators. Prep tables and sinks. Shared with 18 Reasons Cooking School, who uses it in the evenings for classes. Hours available: 6am–5pm, 7 days per week. Ideal for a caterer, meal delivery service, or packaged goods maker. Available April 1st. Located at 3674 18th St., behind 18 Reasons. Email: sammogannam@gmail.com for more information.
the socialite
Last Call for Cupid!
So, Valentine’s Day is almost here, and did you procrastinate on what you’re doing with your hunny? First, you really should look at my Instagram Highlight for ideas of places to go to (although some are booked up now) and treats to get. Here are a few more ideas for you that still have availability—and live music!
Do you recall the fab, at-home caviar and sparkling wine experience I wrote about a few months ago, with a trio of elegant sparklers from Domaine Carneros and caviar and roe from Tsar Nicoulai? It was a dream! Well, you too can experience the same caviar tasting Domaine Carneros serves at their chateau in Carneros, which is now being offered in honor of Valentine’s at Tsar Nicoulai’s SF Caviar Cafe at the Ferry Building Marketplace (until February 16th).
You and your Valentine (or trusty Palentine) will enjoy a trio of the following pairings: Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé with Tsar Nicoulai Smoked Trout; Brut Cuvée with Estate Caviar; and Ultra Brut with Reserve Caviar. $130 for 2 oz. pours and .5 oz. caviar tastings x 3. (Domaine Carneros members will receive a $20 discount with proof of membership.)
