what’s cookin’
Yeehaw, greetings from Lake Tahoe! I’m so grateful to (finally) be up here at our family cabin in Tahoma for my annual jaunt—Fortuna was doing much better, so we drove up on Monday (which is why you’re receiving this on a Thursday—your hopper was behind the wheel of her Fiat instead of her desk)! Tuna was such a good little traveler, she amazes me. We had a pitstop at Ikeda’s in Auburn to pick up some Elberta peaches (always!), and the cashiers got such a kick out of Tuna in her fancy stroller. City girl!
As you can surmise, I’m taking a much-needed break for the next couple weeks—including Labor Day—which means I won’t be back in your inbox until September 10th! I’m also staying off email as much as possible, so please excuse my radio silence if you try to reach me. Your hopper needs to relax, refresh, and recharge. I had my first dip in the lake yesterday, and it was the crystal blue persuasion I needed—so utterly gorgeous. I’ll be out there every day!
Before signing off: back in March, I wrote a post on Instagram about the horrible blight that crept up on my favorite modernist building in the City, at 675 California in Chinatown. After reading my post, Stacy Williams at the AIA reached out to John King at the San Francisco Chronicle, who just wrote this piece about it. Right on!
Here’s hoping the more attention that gets paid to this tragically abandoned jewel box of a building, it somehow helps pave the path for something positive to be done about it? Thanks to my fellow San Franciscans who give enough of a damn about our beautiful city to say and try to do something when something isn’t right. We got this.
The same thing goes for the concerning takeover happening on Fillmore Street by VC Neil Mehta of Greenoaks Capital, who, according to this press release from Board of Supervisors President Aaron Peskin: “spent tens of millions of dollars to purchase at least a dozen storefronts through separate LLCs on three city blocks in the upper Fillmore neighborhood commercial district in early 2024. The bulks of these purchases occurred after the parcels were identified as targets for Mayor Breed’s upzoning plan. Since then, several longstanding restaurants, eateries, and shops have been forced into closure and two legacy businesses are fighting for their survival,” which includes Café La Méditerranée (45 years old, whose lease is up in May) and Sushi Ten-Ichi (46 years old, who launched a GoFundMe to relocate).
At Monday’s rally, Peskin announced new legislation to protect neighborhood legacy and small businesses to be introduced at the Board of Supervisors: “It will ensure that building owners cannot unilaterally evict a city-certified legacy or neighborhood anchor business, in the Upper Fillmore neighborhood commercial district, an approach which may be replicated citywide.” Of course, there’s much more to this developing story, you can read more here and here.
Vanick Der Bedrossian, owner of Café La Méditerranée, said: “We are honored to be recognized as a legacy business who has served as a pillar of our community for forty-five years. The recent developments on Fillmore Street demonstrate the urgent need to give the legacy business program more teeth. President Peskin’s proposal is a great step forward to safeguard the unique spirit and character of our neighborhoods. We love Fillmore Street, we love San Francisco, and we want to stay.”
This ties in to my intro note last week about what The Pizza Place on Noriega is dealing with as well: we need protection for our longtime neighborhood businesses from unscrupulous landlords (here’s their GoFundMe).
OK, gang, let’s dive in—I have a bunch of stories for you today. Have a great Labor Day holiday weekend, see you in September! [slams laptop shut]
XO! 🐿️
~Marcia
the chatterbox
An Early Visit to Bombay Brasserie, the Glam New Restaurant at TAJ Campton Place
Last Friday evening, my sister and I met up for dinner at the brand-new Bombay Brasserie at the TAJ Campton Place—the dining room (and concept) have both had quite the update from the previous incarnation, moving away from a fine-dining format (but still upscale). This is the first Bombay Brasserie in the U.S. (from Indian Hotels Company—IHCL—India’s largest hospitality company), which also has locations in London, Cape Town, Dubai, and Singapore.
A couple weeks ago, I mentioned in my column that the executive chef is Thomas George, who comes from Kerala in South India—we were happy to see some Keralan dishes on his menu (we enjoyed such delicious cuisine when we traveled there!), and there is also a strong French influence throughout the menu. For example, a pair of samosas are stuffed with duck confit ($20), while juicy prawns ($24) from the tandoor come with a sauce vierge (this full-flavored version featured olives and capers).
The Indo-French combination works especially well in the chicken keema parmentier ($36), which is almost like an Indian pot pie, with a layer of rich mashed potatoes and breadcrumbs over a truly scrumptious base of keema made with minced chicken (instead of the typical lamb/mutton). You can veer more classic French with dishes like lobster Thermidor, steak au poivre, and scallops with pea mousseline.
George’s Kerala roots shine in the restorative rasam (spiced tomato broth made with the tang of tamarind, thickened with lentil broth, and brightened with cilantro and cumin; $18) and the Kerala beef pepper fry ($36), a dry-cooked steak dish that reminded me of Thai kua kling, with shredded pieces of spiced chuck roast interspersed with ribbons of coconut, plus shallot, the pop of curry leaves, and fennel, served with flaky paratha (we also tried some garlic naan, which had an enjoyable pillowy texture with a golden base).
Descriptions on the menu are limited, and even as somewhat experienced Indian cuisine lovers (and travelers), sis and I were left wondering what some of the dishes were, so be sure to ask the helpful staff. I’m so glad we inquired about the paniyaram ($18), eight crispy-tender balls made of fermented idli batter and millet, resting on a savory and spiced tomato and onion chutney base. Fantastic flavor, a great starter or bar snack to share.
Sadly, the appam ($26)—six petite rice hoppers, with a quail egg in each nest—were quite bland and lacking in personality compared to the paniyaram. We decided to add dollops of the creamy mint chutney that was on the table (chef adds a little bit of Greek yogurt to it, to fabulous effect) on top of the hoppers to give them some oomph. Every other dish we tried had exciting yet balanced levels of flavor, spice, and kick.
For dessert...
The dining room is chic and glam but also welcoming, with hand-painted peacock wallpaper above Dijon mustard—colored curving banquette booths. Tables come with comfortable upholstered dining chairs (either in a soft grey-green leather or in a blue-and-white print or with wicker), and there’s an eight-person table with a stone top that anchors the center of the room under a modern chandelier. The perimeter of the room is adorned with glass lotus flower sconces, and the patterned carpet adds even more visual texture to the eye-catching room.
The adjoining bistro bar and lounge has a slightly different look from the main dining room—but still in a complementary palette—with tobacco-tufted banquettes, plaid upholstered chairs, and a five-person bar. Don’t miss the refreshing Chai Paloma, with blanco tequila, Aperol, grapefruit, lime, vintage chai, grapefruit soda, and sea salt.
Bombay Brasserie is a welcome addition to Union Square, whether you’re hosting a business dinner or family meal—it has a flexible style that can accommodate many occasions and levels of dining. Dinner Tue–Sat 5pm–10pm. 340 Stockton St. at Campton Place.
A Sneak Peek of Altamirano, Opening Very Soon in NoPa
For months, I’ve been keeping my eye on the construction of a new restaurant in the former Jannah space on Fulton Street (just next to Papalote), and while on my neighborhood walk last Friday, I was able to pop in and take a look around. Things look pretty darn close! It’s going to be Altamirano Restaurant and Bar, from chef and restaurateur Carlos Altamirano, known for his Peruvian restaurants Mochica, Piqueos, and Sanguchon in San Francisco, La Costanera in Half Moon Bay, plus locations in the East Bay (Parada Kitchen, Paradita, Barranco).
1775 Fulton St. at Masonic.
Magnolia Brewing Company on Haight Street Has New Owners
Over in the Upper Haight: last week, I noticed an Instagram post from Magnolia Brewing Company that announced a temporary closure starting August 26th and new ownership. Taking over from New Belgium Brewing is a trio of local hospitality pros: Kevin Kynoch (Fly Bar, Fishbowl, Polo Grounds), Brandon Phillips (21st Amendment), and Brian Reccow (Specialistas Hospitality).
A press announcement they shared with me states: “Magnolia Brewing Company will continue to be at the forefront of San Francisco’s craft beer movement. The on-site basement brewery will balance new and exciting recipes, San Francisco collaborations, while also paying homage to Magnolia classics (Kali Kolsch, etc.). The food will feature carefully curated small plates at approachable prices to allow guests to define their dining experience. Come for a beer and snack, or embrace the full-blown dining experience.”
They will be offering brunch service, which the sunny corner space with outdoor seating is practically built for. Their updated spirits program has a new lineup of cocktails, and they’ll be featuring Bay Area distilleries when possible. Spirits will be paired with Magnolia beers on a special boilermaker menu as well.
The team is proud to be the next stewards of the iconic Upper Haight location’s legacy, which transformed from Schumates Pharmacy into The Drogstore Cafe in 1964, and then Magnolia Thunderpussy in the late ’60s—Dave McLean took over when it was Dish restaurant (a popular brunch spot) and founded Magnolia in 1997, and New Belgium acquired Magnolia in 2017. Stand by for reopening news soon. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic.
A Tasty Visit to The Nosh Box in SoMa
Before leaving town, I had a fun brunch moment during the soft opening of The Nosh Box in SoMa, from Stephen Wade and Edwin Stoodley. The colorful space (now in cheerful orange and magenta) has a variety of seating options, and a case full of house-baked treats. I started with their delightful raspberry scone with candied grapefruit (using a mix of flours from Central Milling and Community Grains) and a Gibraltar (they use Chromatic for their coffee), noshed on some cream cheese smothered with housemade red pepper jelly with Wheat Thins (classic!), and you just saw their summer tomato sando as today’s main image (featuring Benevento tomatoes from Spade & Plow farm) with shiso mayo, Seka Hills olive oil, and housemade toasted focaccia topped with nepitella.
I brought one of their superlative chocolate chip cookies home, made with rye flour and brown butter, and let me tell you, it was the move. They’re making house syrups, like peach and lavender, that one customer added to their iced matcha latte, also a delicious move! They really take care with all their sourcing and ingredients—you can tell they have pondered over so many details and flavors.
Here’s more about their coming hours this week: “We will be training the staff this week in the shop, and if you pop by Friday from 10-4 we will be doing some light scrimmaging, open to the public, with an ask for feedback (all for slightly discounted rate while the staff and ourselves get our sea legs with the operational flow). Saturday [the 31st] we will be open 5pm to 10pm for Burning Man livestream party (come dressed to get down), and starting next Tuesday [the 3rd] will be fully open to the public five days a week, Tuesday through Saturday. Thank you for stopping by. Thank you for your patience. And we look forward to having y’all in very soon!”
Initial hours in September will be Tue–Thu 7am–5pm, Fri–Sat 7am–10pm, to be adjusted when they see what the community wants. Beer and wine will be pouring soon! 1116 Folsom St. at 7th St.
Quick News Links
I was so happy to hear things are still coming along for the reopening of the historic Julius’ Castle (since 1922) on Telegraph Hill. Owner Paul Scott is reportedly on the hunt for a chef who can honor the past while keeping a foot in the present. [Via San Francisco Standard]
After departing the Ferry Building, Charles Phan will be reopening Slanted Door in its original location (which he opened at 584 Valencia Street, back in 1995) in spring 2025. [Via Eater]
Make Your Reservation for Color Theory at Merchant Roots
Back in May, I mentioned that Merchant Roots was moving from Fillmore Street and reopening in SoMa, and this is just a note to let you know it has opened! New features of the immersive dining experience include projections; custom wallpaper printed with images of food, drinks, and physical menus from Merchant Roots’ previous themes; a private courtyard; a culinary garden; and strawberry bubbles: a hidden alcove where guests can experience a surprise inspired by a course from Merchant Roots & The Chocolate Factory menu.
The rotating menu theme format means that chef Ryan Shelton will create a brand-new restaurant four times a year. The current menu is Color Theory, a 10-course monochromatic menu served to 12 guests per seating, two seatings (Wed–Sat, every other Sun/Tue) until November 10th, 2024. Reservations required, reserve via Tock. Parking available in building garage with a reservation. I’ll share more on this immersive dining experience after I visit! 1148 Mission St. at 7th St.
Bi-Rite Market Polk Street Opens Thursday August 29th
After months of extensively renovating the former Real Foods. Co. location, Bi-Rite Market is opening their latest store on Polk Street on Thursday August 29th. This is Bi-Rite’s 27th year (second-generation owner Sam Mogannam has led this beloved brand since 1998) and Bi-Rite’s third neighborhood grocery store (which just created 75 new jobs!). Neighbors will be able to enjoy Bi-Rite’s trademark mix of carefully curated local and direct-sourced products, housemade meals and ingredients, desserts, and pints of Bi-Rite Creamery ice cream.
During opening weekend (Saturday August 31st and Sunday September 1st), customers will enjoy gifts with purchase, and get to take advantage of special deals, all while helping to give back: three percent of all Market sales will be donated to Bi-Rite’s longtime community partner, Project Open Hand. There will also be live music from local musicians 4pm–6pm on both days, and then on every Saturday through September. Special promotions, local producer tastings, and surprises will also continue. Open 8am–9pm daily. 2140 Polk St. at Broadway.
An Updated Look and Menu at The Brixton, Reopening Thursday
the sponsor
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the lush
A Welcoming Wine Lounge Just Opened in Dogpatch
Owner Chris Tavelli recently closed his Yield Wine Bar (after 18 years), and now the Dogpatch neighborhood now has a new (and stylish) wine bar that just opened in its space. Dogpatch resident Robert Levy is the owner of Gather Wine Lounge, which has a glam-lounge look (including Kelly green walls and comfortable seating), a neighborhood-friendly/affordable wine list, and an array of bites. There’s even some sidewalk seating (with a water bowl for your pooch—it’s Dogpatch, after all).
Levy’s background is actually in marketing/sales and real estate, but he has a deep love for wine and hospitality, and Gather is a lifelong passion project for him. His team includes Franz Zarate, Antonio Laborinho Schwartz, and Casey Knight; Brooks Griffin (another Dogpatch resident) served as a hospitality consultant during their formation, and Christopher Potter (former owner/operator of Nectar Wine Lounge) serves as an ongoing advisor.
Regarding their wine list, Levy tells me, “We strive to carry first and foremost beautifully crafted wines that represent both the integrity of the winemaker along with a quality and value that surpasses its price for our guests…and if it meets the mark, we strive to ensure that they are crafted with the lowest amount of intervention as possible with an eye towards more naturally produced and/or organically farmed grapes whenever possible.”
The global list currently has 19 selections from Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Oregon, and California, and they really want guests to feel welcome to try “a splash or two” so they can explore and taste and find something that speaks to their palate. (Guests could even do a tasting through their entire lineup.) Wines are reasonably priced (they want to be neighborhood-friendly), and you can take 30 percent off the bottle price to bring it home/to-go.
You can look at the food menu here, which features two kinds of rillettes, a cheese flight, and locally sourced items when possible (including a unique, gluten-free beer/ale selection from Black Hammer Brewing).
They’re excited by the warm welcome and support from the neighborhood, and happy to provide a comfortable space for connection. Open Tue–Sat 4:30pm–10pm, Sun 4pm–9pm. 2490 3rd St. at 22nd St.
Ginger’s Is Gonna Be Open on the Reg
Some great news from Ginger’s bar (FiDi’s only queer-identified space): after reopening for Pride weekend, the bar will have regular operating hours starting the first week of September! It will be open Wed–Thu 5pm–12am and Fri 5pm–2am.
Fun September programming includes: Wed Sept. 4th: Afterwork Karaoke with KJ LaLa and Ida Knowe; Thu Sept. 5th: Downtown First Thursday Afters – B O O T Y B S M T S F with Grace Towers; and Fri Sept. 6th: Terror Vault Takeover with Raya Light, Mocha Fapalatte, and Natasha Nightmare.
You can also come by for some special nights this week and start your holiday weekend early: Wed Aug. 28th: Hey Girl! Bingo! with Shelix; Thu Aug. 29th: Glitter Box with MGM Grande and Landa Lakes; and Fri Aug. 30th: Elsa Touche’s Flop Era. Doors always at 5pm. Check Ginger’s socials for show details! 86 Hardie Pl. at Kearny.
the socialite
Sunday Is the Bay Area’s Largest Vegan Food Festival
Sunday September 1st is the fourth annual Bizerkeley Food Festival, the Bay Area’s largest vegan food festival. Hosted by Erika Hazel, aka The Bizerkeley Vegan, there will be over 100 vendors, including vegan food and drinks, unique art, apparel, lifestyle and wellness brands, as well as music (including Stunnaman02), dance, games, and giveaways.
Tickets are available ($14 at the door). 12pm–6pm. Martin Luther King Jr. Civic Center Park (2151 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Berkeley) with entrances at Center Street and Allston Way, and Martin Luther King Jr. Way and Milvia Street.
First Fridays in the City Are About to Heat Up
By Savannah Leone Bundy
Friday September 6th marks the launch of a brand-new dining series at One Market. Hosted by Bobby Friday and chef Mark Dommen, SIZZLE will be an exciting addition to the City’s nightlife scene, with a monthly dinner and drag show held on first Fridays.
The $98 ticket includes a four-course meal and performances from Bobby and a lineup of some of the fiercest queens around—including the ultra-fabulous Bionka Simone, who graced the stage at tablehopper’s Bohemian Sunday party earlier this year. September’s menu features an amuse bouche trio of tomato gazpacho (arbequina olive oil), chickpea tot (crème fraîche, caviar), and blistered Padrón peppers (toasted nori, sesame, bonito flake); a first course choice of wedge salad (bleu cheese, bacon, tomato, chives) or ahi tuna tartare (edamame, lemon oil, taro chips); entrée choice of their truly fantastic spit-roasted prime rib (potato purée, spinach, jus, popover) or grilled wild king salmon (fresh corn polenta, toybox tomato, mustard seed jus); and a not-so-old fashioned banana split (caramelized bananas, Valrhona dulce Bavarian cream, almond sable, ice cream trio) for dessert.
Each event will support a different queer-centric charity—September is The Castro Country Club, the sober gathering space and home for members of the LGBTQ community in recovery—with shows on October 4th (La Casa De Las Madres), November 1st (GLBT Historical Society), and December 6th (Transgender District). Dinner seatings begin at 6:30pm and the shows start at 8pm—reservations can be made here. Drinks, tax, and gratuity aren’t included so plan to spend a little extra—and don’t forget cash to tip the queens! Friday September 6th. 6:30pm. 1 Market St. at Steuart.
