what’s cookin’
Hi there! I have (finally) surfaced from responding to the bushel of emails in my post-vacation inbox, and catching up on all the news that hit while I was away. (I hate the price we pay for going on vacation, especially when you are your business, but this too shall pass.) I’m working on some cool stories for upcoming tablehopper issues, and tasty Instagram posts, too. You may want to track down your fat pants. Ha-ha.
Highlights from last week: a beautiful family dinner at Dalida for my sister’s birthday (stand by for my recap); laughs with my dear friend over Greek-inspired bites, top-notch salumi (ciao, fried mortadella panino and spicy Calabrese Testadura pinsa with hearty dollops of Tempesta ’nduja!), and big pours of wine at Unwine’d in West Portal (Instagram post forthcoming!); and the Vintage Fashion Faire on Friday was such a blast of eye candy and delightful people. I can’t wait to sport my new lewks.
Happy Negroni Week (which is almost every week in my life)! Running now through September 22nd, bars and restaurants around the world will be mixing classic Negronis and many delicious variations, all in support of Slow Food. Check the website to see which local bars and restaurants are participating, and most places are posting on their social media what they’re offering this week. Cin-cin!
This Sunday, I’m thrilled to be returning to the patio at Cafe Colucci in Oakland to experience their latest Brundo Chef Residency/pop-up, Silent Table, hosted by chef Leonard Roberts III and his wife, CoreyMarie Roberts. The tasting menu looks fantastic (click the link below), with Caribbean spice profiles, Filipino flavors, and seasonal produce. There are still a few seats open at the 7pm seating, and the weather is going to be gorg on Sunday (I’m just sayin’).
Hope to see you out and about.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Lower Haight Scores the Future Brick-and-Mortar Location for Buzzy Pizza Pop-Up, Jules
Some exciting news: Max Blachman-Gentile and Eliza Arnold’s hawt pizza pop-up, Jules, will be opening a brick-and-mortar location in the former Iza Ramen in the Lower Haight (next to Indian Oven restaurant). I reached out for initial deets, and they’re hoping to be open in early 2025 (there’s a lot of work to do to get it ready, but they love the location!). It’s definitely a bright spot of good news since they suffered a break-in last month with five other businesses at the Treasure Island commissary where they prep and store equipment.
Max was previously culinary director for Tartine, and formerly was in New York cooking at Roberta’s, Mission Chinese Food, Luksus, Tørst, and The Standard Hotel. Jules has been popping up since 2023 at places like Buddy (next ones are 9/29, 10/6, 10/20, 10/27; reserve here) and Loquat (coming up on 9/27), with hyper-local and tuned pizzas like the Spicy Ronny (tomato sauce, mozzarella, caciocavallo, pepperoni, Parm, ajika Chile flake, Calabrian Chile; $22) and the oh-so-seasonal Field Dream (corn pudding, charred corn, Sungold tomatoes, mozzarella, Thai basil pesto, Makrut lime shrimp dust; $24).
The dough (and crust) are pretty legendary, you can read more in this SFIST piece. The current menu also includes an Italian “chopped” salad, and summer beans and greens (pickled romano and wax beans, Atlantis and Canadew melon, tarragon-miso ranch, dill, garlicky peanut crunchies; $14).
Follow Jules on Instagram for pop-up updates, and I look forward to sharing some more deets about the location soon. [WhatNowSF was first to notice the application.] 237 Fillmore St. at Haight.
ABsteak, a Global and Upscale Korean Steakhouse, Is Coming to Union Square in October
On Tuesday October 8th, the second California location of the global Korean steakhouse, ABsteak, is opening in Union Square from chef (and Seoul native) Akira Back. There are 28 locations around the world (Back was formerly a professional snowboarder!). The sleek, 6,500-square-foot space was previously Infusion Lounge (at 124 Ellis Street), and will have 130 seats, with a sleek bar and lounge area, and multiple private dining rooms. Kinney Chan & Associates is behind the sophisticated contemporary design that weaves in traditional Korean elements, with lots of wood and natural materials.
The menu will be centered around premium cuts of dry-aged beef and wagyu sourced from top producers, accompanied by an array of Korean-inspired sides, sauces, and condiments. ABsteak utilizes a custom-designed tabletop grilling system that uses smokeless Japanese binchotan charcoal to ensure you get a perfect sear while you cook your steak (and don’t smell like it when you leave).
Additional dishes include the AB wagyu pizza with wagyu tartare and an option to add caviar (of course); ganjang gae-jang with soy-marinated Korean raw female crab; and a 45-day, dry-aged ssam jang New York strip loin. There will be cocktails, and selections from Napa Valley will figure prominently on the wine list and in the circular wine bottle display glass case—featuring 112 bottles—in the middle of the dining room.
Dinner will be served Tue–Thu 5pm–10pm and Fri–Sat until 11pm. Reservations on OpenTable. 124 Ellis St. at Powell.
New Openings Include Lao, Hong Kong–Style BBQ, and Indian Restaurants
Early Bird: Grand Opening for Limoncello Civic Center Is This Week!
I reported last month that one of the City’s best sandwich shops, Limoncello, is opening a third location in the former Bi-Rite Cafe at Civic Center. Owner Jalal Heydari tells me they are opening ahead of schedule, and are holding the grand opening this Thursday September 19th. Congrats!
At this third location, they’ll serve their well-crafted deli sandwiches, salads, and pizza to start, as well as coffee drinks, and will ramp up to offer some breakfast items in time. Limoncello’s ABC application was approved, so they will also be pouring beer and wine.
There’s a spacious outdoor patio, with tables and chairs for up to 70, so you can hang out for lunch or grab a bite and a glass after going to the San Francisco Public Library and Asian Art Museum. Follow @limoncellosf for updates. Hours: Mon–Sat 8am–6pm. 52 Grove St. at Larkin.
Chef Reina Is Hosting a New Vegan Filipino Brunch Pop-Up on Sundays in SoMa
There’s a new brunch pop-up running every Sunday from Chef Reina Montenegro, known for her pioneering vegan Filipino cuisine. Reserve a table at JVK in SoMa on Sundays for her plant-based menu of creative Filipino breakfast dishes, from longsilog sweet and savory “pork” sausages, to tapsilog (tender slices of wheat gluten marinated in lemon, soy, and spices topped with grilled onions), both served with a “fried egg” and garlic rice. For her itlog/fried egg, she uses a combination of tofu scramble and JUST Egg (made with mung beans).
The extensive menu also features an artichoke “crab cake” Benedict, vegan longanisa breakfast tacos, vegan sisig (grilled tofu and mushroom in a citrus-soy marinade, served on a sizzling platter), two kinds of lumpia, and more, plus ube pancakes! Reserve here. 10am–3pm. 167 11th St. at Howard.
Don’t Miss the Next Poulet Frites Lunch at The Morris
the lush
Quick Pours: News at the Former Milk Bar and Monk’s Kettle Locations
Shout-out to Milk Bar in the Upper Haight for staying in business for over 20 years. And now, Hoodline reports it’s transforming into O’Reilly’s Pub, an Irish pub from Milk Bar’s original owner’s son (Louie Caponi) and Dublin-born business partner Neil Holbrook, who owns The San Francisco Athletic Club on Divis. According to their Instagram account, they’re offering sports, live music, and whiskey—they have already reopened, and have a show tonight (September 17th).
A trip down memory lane: back in 2003, my Knees Up crew moved our biweekly happy hour from The Hush Hush Lounge to Milk Bar when the owner complained about our music. (Bye!) We partied there for a year before moving again to Vertigo Bar on Polk (wow, that was 20 years ago). Good times. 1840 Haight St. at Shrader.
WhatNowSF notes that a business called Big Finish is coming to the former Monk’s Kettle in the Mission. WhatNowSF found a business proposal online that describes the concept as “a neighborhood tavern but with a wine focus… Big Finish will offer an extensive wines by the glass list, all available by the half glass and bottle. There will also be a quality food program and draft beer.” Stand by for more. Their Instagram account is up and running. 3141 16th St. at Albion.
Unfortunate Closures in Mission Bay
After four years of running Mission Bay Wine & Cheese (at 114 Channel Street), and opening Mission Bay Wine Bar at Thrive City at the Chase Center back in February 2023, owners Peter Granoff and Debbie Zachareas (Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant & Wine Bar, Oxbow Cheese & Wine Merchant in Napa) have closed both Mission Bay businesses.
A note on their website says: “We have tried mightily for 4 years at our 114 Channel Street location, and for 15 months now at Chase Center, to reach a level of sustainability, and to find additional working capital to keep the two locations afloat. Unfortunately we have not been successful in either endeavor. We are truly sorry to have disappointed you.” Sigh.
the socialite
The Vinguard to Host a Fundraiser Bridging Music and Natural Wine on September 27th
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Wine industry non-profit The Vinguard is hosting its first-ever fundraiser next Friday September 27th. The music and wine festival Groovine will be an opportunity to sip on natural wines from women-owned wineries and importers like ¿Por Qué No?, Lula, Tessier Winery, and Culture Wine Co., while grooving to live music (Rainbow Girls are headlining, and other acts include Lalin St. Juste and Aviva Le Fay). Guests will enjoy bites from an array of local faves, including Copra, Dalida, The Morris, The Line Hotel, A16, Reem’s, El Pípila, and Humphry Slocombe, all in support of Vinguard’s social advocacy work in the industry.
Tickets to the event—which is being held at the Haight Street Art Center—are $100 ($90 for food and beverage industry workers, essential workers, seniors, students, and educators) and are available here. There’s also a tiered sponsorship option, where guests can become event sponsors and gain access to extra perks and discounts to other Vinguard programming. See you there! Friday September 27th. 6pm–10pm. 215 Haight St. at Laguna.
Sprouts Chef Training Is Hosting a Truly Fabulous Fundraiser with Top SF Restaurants on September 29th
On Sunday September 29th, enjoy chef bites, craft cocktails, and fine wines at the Better Together fundraiser, with a live auction of fantastic items by MC Liam Mayclem. It’s a benefit for Sprouts Chef Training, a 501(c)(3) non-profit that partners with leading chefs in the Bay Area and NYC to get underserved youth and young adults hands-on culinary training, mentorship, and job placement opportunities.
The notable chef and restaurant lineup includes Evan and Sarah Rich of Rich Table; Nelson and May German of Sobre Mesa and alaMar; Rupert and Carrie Blease of Lord Stanley; Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz of Dalida; Michael Magallanes of The Third Floor; and Gayle Pirie and John Clark of Foreign Cinema.
Cocktails and wine will be provided by Delfina, The Third Floor, Moongate Lounge, The Setting Wines, Iron Horse Vineyards, and Matthiasson Wines. You’ll also see honored guests and Sprouts ambassadors Shelley and Greg Lindgren (A16 & Rye Bar), Francis Ang and Dian Ang (ABACÁ), Lindsay and Michael Tusk (Quince and Cotogna), and Roland and Jaime Passot (Left Bank Brasserie and Vine Dining Hospitality Partner).
The VIP hour starts at 3pm (with oysters, caviar, and bubbles); the main event is at 4pm, and runs to 7pm. You can also choose to stay the night at the newly open and luxurious Jay Hotel in downtown San Francisco. Tickets here (scroll down to where it says Experiences). 70 percent of the ticket price is a tax-deductible donation. Proceeds support the culinary training and job placement for 50 youth in SF and NYC. 433 Clay St. at Commercial.
