what’s cookin’
Wow, how’s this for the start of Rocktober? The hottest October day in SF in 28 years? Again, I can’t believe I’m at my desk on deadline and roasting in my top-floor apartment (eeeeeee so hot) instead of chillin’ at the beach. Bad timing, yet again. But tonight, I’m happy to be leading a group on a custom tablehopper tour and progressive dinner in North Beach, while sharing the neighborhood’s bohemian history and stories. There’s nothing like a warm night in North Beach—it’s gonna be poppin’! Thankfully, I see a Negroni in my very near future.
Last week, I had a blast checking out the recently opened Prelude in The Jay hotel…talk about style! Be sure to take a peek at the Brutalist-meets-Brancusi vibe of the hotel lobby (enter on Clay Street) before entering the restaurant on the Battery Street side. The restaurant is truly natural-chic, and chef Celtin Hendrickson-Jones’s Southern-leaning menu sports as much technique as flavor. Favorites included the deviled eggs (loved the house-fermented hot sauce), the silky-sublime catfish dumplings in crayfish étouffée gravy, the “dirty rice”–stuffed wings, the hominy grits table service with the griddled stuffin’ (made with roasted cabbage, chanterelles, and mushroom gravy), and both the sorghum waffles and pretzel and banana cream pie for dessert.
The wine list has some personality, and there’s a petite bar—the fab P.F.C. Martini by Franco Bilbaeno is for the pickle lovers. Service is dialed but also so approachable, hitting that high-low balance you also see on the table with the vintage plates and bowls (which made me think of Burdell, and my grandmother) alongside the elegant stemware. I’ll be sharing more on Instagram soon, but for now, I wanted to let you know this is a fun new opening to add to your hit list.
Another tidbit: if you’re a fan of chewy sourdough bagels, check out...
In the WTF So Sad SF department, I was crushed to see the news that Fabric Outlet (2109 Mission St.) decided not to renew their lease and is closing on November 23rd, after almost 30 years of business (since 1995). Nooooo! That place has been a dependable and treasured standby for so many of my projects, from Burning Man outfits to event production to home decorating. I love everyone who works there. And the prices were right! Damn, this is a tough one. They’re having a big sale right now, and people have been coming out in droves. Meow. What a loss.
OK gang, I hope you have your cool dinner (I had soba noodles last night) and a spritz lined up for this warm evening. It’s gonna be 80 degrees at 6pm! The fukuoka signature cold udon at Katsuo + Kombu would be perfection tonight.
Cin cin! 🥂
~Marcia
the chatterbox
GiGi’s, A Vietnamese-Influenced Wine Bar, Is Coming to the Divisadero Corridor This Fall
The Lower Haight/Nopa neighborhoods have a pretty awesome project coming this fall from chef Tu David Phu: GiGi’s, a Vietnamese-influenced wine bar (first reported in Eater). It’s opening in the former Wholesome Bakery at Divisadero and Page, and Phu, a Top Chef alum, will be offering small plates inspired by his childhood in the Bay Area (Phu’s father was a fishmonger).
The initial menu includes a Saigon wagyu dog with egg, bacon-scallion, truffle pecorino, pork floss furikake, pickled serrano, sriracha, kewpie, and unagi sauce; and nhúng dấm (salmon ceviche, pineapple niyog, lemongrass, Makrut lime leaf, herbs, and coconut vinegar). His cookbook also just came out from 4 Color Books: The Memory of Taste: Vietnamese American Recipes from Phú Quoc, Oakland, and the Spaces Between.
Advanced sommelier Justin Chin (formerly at Hina Yakitori up the street and Gary Danko) will be offerings wines from around the world, and there’s also going to be a retail shop. Stand by for updates. 299 Divisadero St. at Page.
The End of an Era for Two Stalwarts on Belden Place, and the Clock Is Ticking for Sam Wo
Over on Belden Place, SFGATE reports that Café Bastille and B44 are both closing this month (currently looking like October 26th). Talk about the end of an era. Café Bastille opened in 1989 from Olivier Azancot and Eric Klein—they went on to open Plouf in 1996, and then B44 in 1999. Belden Place was IT for years. They converted that entire alley (along with Pino and Giuseppe at Cafe Tiramisu) into such a lively alfresco dining scene at lunch and dinner, and happy hour was a blast, with everyone smoking and drinking wine and Kir Royales and flirting. I worked downtown in the mid-to-late ’90s, and Belden was totally Euro headquarters (outside of North Beach), with the hottest waiters (and customers). And Bastille Day was completely crazy—what a party, every year. But yeah, times have obviously changed, and sadly the downtown lunch and after-work scene feels like a vestige from another time. You can read their farewell in this Instagram post. Merci beaucoup for all the memories. 44 Belden Pl. at Bush.
Okay, you guys, it seems there isn’t a new owner lined up to take over the historic (115 years!) Sam Wo Restaurant in Chinatown. Be sure to watch this latest report from NBC Bay Area about the current situation. Their lease is ending at the end of the year (which I wrote about a year ago), and owner David Ho, who has run Sam Wo for nearly 45 years, is ready to retire.
Come on, how do we organize and fundraise to help get a new family in place to take over Sam Wo and learn the recipes? Generations of families have dined there! We can’t let the lights go down on this iconic business when there are many creative solutions to save it. I can’t imagine SF without Sam Wo. 713 Clay St. at Kearny.
New Openings Around Town
Sandwich Report
There’s a new sub shop in the Excelsior called Ocean Subs (it’s in the former and longtime Deli World, which was open for 30 years). This project is from chef Lee Opelinia, who is behind the Filipino pop-up, Province. He was born, raised, and lives in the neighborhood, and is excited to give something back to the Excelsior. He says, “I want people to be able to afford to eat here multiple times a week—I want to see them more than once a month! I’m using sandwiches as a vehicle to create community. I hope for this shop will be here another 30 years. I want to see people’s kids grow up!”
Opelinia is keeping Deli World’s original subs on the menu, while updating them with housemade vinaigrettes and sauces and new ingredient sourcing. The menu includes the Original Sub (ham, Italian salami, choice of cheese); The Atomic (ham, Italian salami, smoked turkey, roast beef, and choice of cheese); The Italian (mortadella and salami with olives); and The Veggie Sub (cucumber, roasted peppers, alfalfa sprouts, hummus, choice of cheese). You can also build your own, and there are a couple salads on the menu. He plans to offer some new creations in time, but wanted to honor the original menu for the opening. Pricing (for now) is wildly affordable: a six-inch sub is $8.50, and an eight-inch sub is just $11.50. Prices may change as needed in time, but Opelinia wants to do what he can to feed the neighborhood well and affordably. Open Tue–Sat 10am–4pm. 18 Ocean Ave. at Mission.
Alimentari Aurora’s panino maestro Dario Barbone is going to be moving his latest project, Aurora Centro, from Salesforce Park to the Mission. He’s reopening it as Studio Aurora in the former Milk on Valencia. There will be his artful sandwiches, salads, “tapas bistro” bites, music, wine, and more. The Chronicle mentions he’s gunning to open before the end of the year. 302 Valencia St. at 14th St.
Let’s Do Lunch
New Chef Appointments at Alora and ROOH
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Alora and ROOH (both from Good Times Restaurants Group, founded by Anu and Vikram Bhambri) are welcoming new executive chefs and menus this fall. Alora—the coastal Mediterranean-inspired eatery that opened on the Embarcadero this past January—will be operating under the leadership of Nicholas Peters, a seasoned Bay Area chef (previously at SFMOMA’s grace). He plans to craft all-new, seasonally-rotating menus, which will debut October 15th for this fall and winter. Open Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5pm–9:30pm, Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 5pm–9pm. Pier 3, Hornblower Landing at Embarcadero.
ROOH—a longtime fave—is now home to renowned chef Valice Francis, whose experience includes critically acclaimed tenures at restaurants such as Indian Accent NYC, Indian Accent in New Delhi, Masala Library in Mumbai, and Daarukhana in Hong Kong. Francis plans to create a multi-sensory dining experience that blends Indian cuisine with “unexpected” global elements with dishes like Punjabi saag and burrata (mustard, spinach, fenugreek saag, garlic confit; $28) and hemp seed roast Cornish hen (tandoori marinade, hemp seed chutney, garlic aioli; $20). Francis’ menu launches October 20th. Sun–Thu 5pm–9:30pm Fri–Sat 5pm–10pm. 333 Brannan at Stanford.
Let’s Party: Fun Food Events and Experiences This Month
This Sunday October 6th, Prubechu turns 10, and you know it’s going to be a celebration. They’re hosting a cocktail-style party on the patio with a live band, DJs, unlimited passed apps and a grazing table, a Hog Island oyster bar, all-you-can-drink selections from their favorite local natural wine and craft beer makers, plus sake, cocktails, and some fun casino-style games with prizes. Every time I’m there, it’s a good time—love the spirit and vibes of this special place. Happy Birthday! $75 plus tax. Get your ticket here. 2pm–8pm. 2224 Mission St. at 18th St.
Next week, from Wednesday October 9th–12th, Gumbo Social is celebrating National Gumbo Day with three free community events in the Bayview. There will be a fireside chat about gumbo and its importance to Black food culture and the diaspora, a cooking demo by chef Dontaye Ball (aka Mr. Gumbo), and a free gumbo tasting event, where guests can try a flight of five gumbos, plus there’s a bonus discount day! Food, wine, and dessert will be available for purchase at all events. Read more and RSVP for free here. 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.
the sugar mama
Enter to Win a 1:1 Sourdough Session with Boudin Bakery’s Master Baker and a 175th Anniversary Gift Bag!
Boudin Bakery, home of The Original San Francisco Sourdough™ and the oldest continuously operating company in San Francisco, is celebrating 175 years, and they want you to join them in the party! One lucky winner will win a private 1:1 Sourdough Critter-Making Session with Boudin’s Master Baker Fernando Padilla (you’ll be able to make a crab, bear, or turtle!), which means you’ll have the opportunity to work with Boudin’s iconic mother dough (which is also turning 175!).
The winner also receives a special 175th birthday gift bag stuffed with Boudin swag and a $100 gift card!
To enter to win the baking session and gift bag, visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram. One lucky winner will be chosen on Monday October 7th (at 11am PT). Good luck!
While you wait to see if you’ve won…from September 30th–October 6th, 2024, Boudin Bakery will be offering a special anniversary “Week of Daily Deals” at all of its California locations. How about 1 lb. sourdough loaf for just $1.75?! Learn more by visiting BoudinBakery.com.
the lush
Meet Lilah: A Creative, Low-Proof Cocktail Bar
Now open in the Marina is Lilah, a cocktail bar from the Causwells crew that specializes in low-proof cocktails made with local, low-proof spirits infused with produce, herbs, and spices. Partner and beverage director Elmer Mejicanos has crafted a list of over 20 cocktails in seven categories (spritzes, sours, martinis, tiki, kakigori, savory, and no alcohol).
Today is definitely the day for one of his shaved-to-order kakigori cocktails, a boozy spin on Japanese shaved ice, featuring flavored ice, syrups, powders, and fruit, served in gold-rimmed margarita glasses. The Strawberry Hill blends low-proof white rum, vermouth, Thai basil, strawberry, pandan, and chia seeds, garnished with mint powder.
Partner and chef Adam Rosenblum has put together a menu of Asian bar snacks, like lime leaf crispy peanuts, cold and steamed dishes (Vietnamese spring rolls, vegetable potstickers), and heartier plates (Korean pork ribs, Cantonese crispy duck tacos), as well as a scallion pancake egg wrap with Chinese pork sausage, eggs, scallions, and chili crunch mayo, wrapped in a housemade Chinese scallion pancake. At brunch (served Fri–Sun), you’ll also be able to tuck into hangover rice (congee-style rice porridge with shredded chicken, grated egg, fresh herbs) along with a Bloody Mary with smoked olives.
It’s located in the streamline moderne Presidio Theater building, previously The Ocularium shop. The space has a touch of exotica and tropical chic, with brass light sconces in the shape of birds, a terracotta-tinged pink and dark green palette, and wallpaper featuring dapper exotic animals at a bar (do they have I.D.?). Open Sun–Wed 4:30pm–10:30pm, Thu 4:30pm–11pm, Fri–Sat 4pm–11:30pm, and brunch Fri–Sun 11am–3pm. 2336 Chestnut St. at Scott.
