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Jun 26, 2024 22 min read

This week’s tablehopper: June vroom. (free)

This week’s tablehopper: June vroom. (free)
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what’s cookin’

Double mortadella: a dream mortadella focaccia panino and glass of Mortadella rosé (made from a nero d’avola blend) at Flour + Water Pasta Shop’s party this past weekend. Pray they bring this panino back for an encore! Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Double mortadella: a dream mortadella focaccia panino and glass of Mortadella rosé (made from a nero d’avola blend) at Flour + Water Pasta Shop’s party this past weekend. Pray they bring this panino back for an encore! Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Happy Pride week, gang! This is always one of my absolute favorite weeks to live in SF—it’s so wonderful to go out and be in community, reconnect and celebrate and catch up and uplift and dance and laugh and hug and hellavate and get our swerve on. The weather is looking pretty damn good this weekend, but I need a little more sun on Saturday for the Polyglamorous Pink Block street dance party. Come on, weather goddess, give us some proper caftan weather! I look forward to seeing you in the mix! 💋

I’m going to be taking next week off from writing this column, and it’s not just because I’ll be in post-Pride recovery or enjoying the Fourth of July holiday—it ends up I’m going to be dealing with an annoying apartment shituation and will be stuck moving a bunch of furniture around. (If you saw my tiny studio apartment, you’d understand why this is a nightmare.) My external computer monitor randomly fried a few months ago after a power outage, and I did a little investigating (and watched some YouTube videos, LOL) and can you believe I just discovered both of the outlets in my main studio room (all two of them, ugh) aren’t grounded? After almost 30 years of living here, it’s a miracle I haven’t had a fire or burned out my oil heater. Mamma mia. Sadly, my landlord thinks he’s capable of doing this rather complicated electrical work, so it’s going to be a disaster of a job site over here (you don’t want me to recount all the crazy “fixes” he has come up with over the years). I’m going to need to pop Valium all next week to get through this. Serenity now! 🙏 (Or a real electrician, that’s what I actually need.) 

Speaking of serenity, I have been immensely enjoying watching Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros, an almost four-hour documentary film by Frederick Wiseman about the generations of the Troisgros family and their three restaurants (the three-star Troisgros, Le Central, and Colline de Colombia) in France. It’s pretty incredible to watch how they source and prepare ingredients, develop dishes, manage service, buy wine, and interact with guests. It’s a quiet film that is very meditative to watch, and an inspiring and intimate look at a storied family business. Check it out on PBS.

On the decidedly “not chill” side of the culinary spectrum, all episodes of the new season of The Bear start streaming on Hulu this Thursday June 27th. Buckle up.

Also stressy AF: members of California’s restaurant industry are collectively holding their breath this week while watching the successful passage of SB1524 through the Assembly—and hopefully passing through the Senate this week—before the confusing and misguided SB478 (the “junk fee” law) goes into effect July 1st. Here’s the latest from the GGRA (Golden Gate Restaurant Association): “We are relieved that SB1524, which was introduced by California Senators Dodd and Wiener, and co-authored by Assemblymember Haney, and Assemblymembers Aguiar-Curry and Gabriel, passed unanimously yesterday on the Assembly floor. It now goes to the Senate for a vote later this week. If passed by the Senate, it will go to the governor for his signature. 

“The passage of SB1524 clarifies and defines the language in SB478, and clarifies what restaurants, bars, or other food service providers need to do in order to comply. The revised language states “that for restaurants, bars, or other food service providers, or for a contract for banquet or catering service providers, any service charge, mandatory gratuity, or other mandatory fee or charges needs to be clearly and conspicuously displayed on the advertisement, menu, or other display.”

“As we have stated previously, transparency is critical and customers should never be surprised by their bill. We believe that allowing the many restaurants who for decades have used auto gratuity instead of tips, (which is more fair and equitable), and more recently who have added service charges to help offset things like the SF Health Care Security Ordinance, will make it possible for restaurants to continue to support pay equity and contribute to worker health care. We are thankful for Senator Dodd’s and Senator Wiener’s leadership to get this addressed, and for Assemblymember Haney to take this up in the Assembly and to co author it.”

I have been speaking with restaurant operators over the past month about the catastrophic impending ramifications of SB478 on their businesses and employees, and every time I write something, the situation changes, so we’ll just have to see what happens this week. Hoping for the best.

Lastly, I’m sending condolences to the vast culinary and family circle around legendary Bay Area chef and personality, Narsai David, who passed last Friday. He was 87 years old/young, and part of so many memories for many people. We are raising our glasses and spoons!

Be well. Stay safe and joyful. I’ll see you in a couple weeks (July 9th)—this honking column has plenty to tide you over!

With love,
~Marcia


the chatterbox

A trio of spritzes at the new Fiorella Noe (there are 12 in all!). Photo: Eric Palozzolo.
A trio of spritzes at the new Fiorella Noe (there are 12 in all!). Photo: Eric Palozzolo.

Fiorella’s Latest Location Opens Wednesday in Noe Valley, Serving the City’s Largest Selection of Spritzes


Opening this Wednesday June 26th in Noe Valley is the fourth Fiorella, an SF neighborhood Italian restaurant from owners Boris Nemchenok and Brandon Gillis; it’s opening in the former Patxi’s on 24th Street (their other three locations are in the Outer Richmond, Russian Hill, and Inner Sunset). They have installed their custom-made, wood-fired, Valoriani oven that is hand-built in Italy and central to their menu of wood-fired pizzas ($18–$24), along with housemade pastas (including some gluten-free options, also $18–$24), and there’s going to be quite a large menu of spritzes (12 in all), which they claim to be SF’s largest selection. I’m ready to taste all of them.

Octopus sugo. Photo: Eric Palozzolo.
Octopus sugo. Photo: Eric Palozzolo.

Summer produce will be in full display in dishes like stone fruit and stracciatella (cherries, peaches, nectarines, hazelnuts, warm spices); capicola, melon, and Italian chile crisp (Charentais melon, coppa, chilies, and mint); and a sweet corn pizza (Brentwood sweet corn, mozzarella di bufala, Parmigiano, chile flake, oregano, pickled torpedo onions). A special pasta dish to take note of is the octopus ragù, with housemade squid ink mafaldine, braised octopus, fennel broth, Calabrian chile butter, and herbed breadcrumbs. You can also go for some of their longtime classics, like the NYC-style, Ezzo pepperoni pizza; their spicy radiatore alla vodka; and tasty salads—take a peek at their menu here.

I’m a fan of their weekend brunch (which they serve on Fridays too, bringing three days of brunch radness!), with dishes like a carbonara pizza, a kickass breakfast sandwich (their house breakfast sausage is the move), and eggs in purgatory with butter beans. Brunch/lunch service begins Friday July 5th, perfect for the upcoming holiday week.

The dining room at Fiorella Noe Valley. Photo: Eric Palozzolo.
The dining room at Fiorella Noe Valley. Photo: Eric Palozzolo.

I’m getting thirsty. Here’s more on the spritz list from bar director Daniel Burns: there are four sections (classic, house, ancient, and “not spritz”), featuring unique concoctions, like a White Spritz (house lemon syrup, Cocchi Americano, prosecco), Strawberry Sbagliato (strawberry-infused vermouth, prosecco, strawberry and vanilla aperitifs), and Chonditum Spritz (honey, mastic, black peppercorn, saffron, bay, red wine). Low-proof cocktails (four) include a Negroni (with wine-based gin, Stellare Primo aperitivo, and vermouth, served on the rocks). Almost all drinks are $14–$15.

Wine lovers always find something tasty to try at Fiorella, thanks to wine director Chris Tarbell, whose list features interesting and value-driven wines (and some house wines, look for the Fiorella name); peruse the wine list here.

The vestibule (and trademark wood-fired oven). Photo: Eric Palozzolo.
The vestibule (and Fiorella’s trademark wood-fired oven). Photo: Eric Palozzolo.

Fiorella Noe was designed by STUDIO. (who also designed the “secret” Bar Nonnina at Fiorella Inner Sunset). The 2,300-square-foot space includes a six-seat, counter-style pizza bar (which is the only spot where you can order the panuozzo, a Neapolitan-style sandwich made here with mortadella and Italian long hots, plus other bar snacks), along with family-friendly banquette seating at tables in the dining room, and a vestibule for quieter (and moodier) dining. Their original space’s iconic “Bay Area toile” wallpaper by Flavor Paper (with Dennis Richmond, love!) gets a different spin here as a gallery wall, along with mid-century, Italian pop art–inspired illustrations by Alyssa Rusin, and vintage dining chairs.

Hours: Mon–Thu 5pm–9pm, Fri 11am–2:30pm and 5pm–9:30pm, Sat 10am–2:30pm and 4:30pm–9:30pm, Sun 10am–2:30pm and 4:30-9pm (note: brunch hours begin July 5th). 4042 24th St. at Noe.

El Mil Amores Opening a Second Location Off Valencia Street

The stellar huevos rancheros at El Mil Amores. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
The stellar huevos rancheros at El Mil Amores. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Almost exactly a year ago, I had my first plate of huevos rancheros at Andrea Becerra’s cheerful and charming El Mil Amores on 21st Street in the Mission, and it was love at first bite of her poblana sauce (all the dishes are inspired by her hometown of Mexico City and feature her grandma’s recipes). El Mil Amores is Becerra’s first restaurant, and she took part in SF’s First Year Free program (listen to her talk more about the program here). She is “so excited and thankful for all the love” in her first year of business. 

Fast forward to now, and thanks to an ever-faithful tablehopper tipster, I learned Becerra is going to be opening a second location in the Mission—it ends up she’s moving into Regalito Rosticeria on 18th Street (her uncle Eduardo opened it in November 2006, almost 18 years ago). Becerra hasn’t decided on the name yet, perhaps Mi Unico Amor—I told her it’s time to watch even more old Mexican films for inspiration (she named El Mil Amores after a 1954 movie). 

The exterior of Regalito Rosticeria. Yelp photo via Andrew D.
The exterior of Regalito Rosticeria. Yelp photo via Andrew D.

Becerra is hoping to open in August, and will be adding dinner service at this location (El Mil Amores just serves brunch and lunch). Abuela’s recipes will continue to be featured from her co-chef Chucky—who has been with her since day one—and some favorite dishes from El Mil Amores will come over. Becerra mentions potential new dishes like chuletas (pork chops) en adobo, some carnes asadas, seafood (like ceviche and coctel), molcajetes (mortar-and-pestle salsas, like morita and guajillo), more salads, and sopas, including an amazing-sounding pork stew that has tamales in it, wow. A couple Regalito favorites will possibly live on, like the carnitas.

In the meantime, Regalito will remain open until it’s time for Becerra to do some light updates and repainting. Becerra is so excited about the patio there, and is looking forward to serving meals outside on beautiful Mission nights. Wine and beer will be available. It will be open daily, starting with brunch/lunch from 10am–3pm, and then they will be extending hours to 8pm/9pm or so later on. I will keep you updated on the opening! 3481 18th St. at Valencia.

🙏
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Bob’s Donuts Forced to Move to a New Location, But There’s a Silver Cream Filling

The classic exterior of Bob’s Donuts on Polk. Instagram photo via @bobsdonuts.
The classic exterior of Bob’s Donuts on Polk. Instagram photo via @bobsdonuts.

It almost seems unbelievable that Bob’s Donuts on Polk—which has been around since 1953, and run by three generations of the Ahn family (since 1977)—is being forced to move because of failed lease negotiations with their landlord. There are very few businesses left like Bob’s Donuts on Polk, with their scratch-made doughnuts and 24/7 hours of service, every damn day. 

The good news is Bob’s Donuts will be moving a block away into the recently closed Lotta’s Bakery and staying in the neighborhood. Whew. Back in April, Board of Supervisors President Aaron Peskin nominated Bob’s Donuts to the Legacy Business Registry in an attempt to incentivize positive negotiations with the landlord, but sadly the negotiations didn’t pan out (yup, that’s some firmly entrenched landlord greed for you). Yesterday, on June 24th, Bob’s was officially added to the Legacy Business Registry.

The next step was getting approval for Bob’s Donuts to be allowed to relocate and expand into a vacant storefront next door to Lotta’s (which would mean Bob’s could have a larger dining room for folks to hang out in; reported by Eater). Fortunately, that was just unanimously approved, so the Ahn family can start working toward opening in this new and expanded location, and bring their legacy business certification with them.

Enjoying a classic selection of Bob’s Donuts at home. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Enjoying a classic selection of Bob’s Donuts at home. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

General manager Rebekah Ahn, whose family took over ownership of Bob’s Donuts in 1977, stated: “Bob’s has been a cherished part of the San Francisco tradition since the 1960’s, and it’s been operated by three generations of my family for the past 50 years. Although we would love to continue our legacy at 1621 Polk Street, the lease negotiations with the landlord have been increasingly difficult for us, with significant rent increases levied every couple of years with no room for negotiation—including the most recent threat to move us to a month-to-month lease at a rent increase of 150%. These contentious negotiations have been a huge stressor for our family and team, but thankfully a new opportunity at 1720 Polk Street is imminent. I would like to thank President Peskin for this invaluable legislation, which will enable us to have an even bigger space with an expanded dining room.”

Peskin adds: “Bob’s Donuts is exactly the kind of legacy small business that has not only defined the neighborhood character of Polk Gulch, but also represents what many small businesses citywide still struggle with: commercial landlords that don’t recognize their inherent value and who don’t want to offer fair leases. This is a longtime community gathering place for everyone from drag queens and late-night revelers to neighborhood beat cops and community clean-up organizers, and even better, they’re open late. At the end of the day, though, they bake donuts. They aren’t going to be able to pay higher rents year after year.”

A late-night photo at Bob’s Donuts from 2009. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
A late-night photo at Bob’s Donuts (from 2009). Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Bob’s Donuts co-owner Aya Ahn had this to say: “This business is not just about making money. We’re about taking care of each other, taking care of our customers, and contributing to the other Polk Street small businesses. We are an extended family in this neighborhood.” Thankfully, Bob’s apple fritters and doughnut holes and glazed doughnuts will continue to perfume the Polk Gulch, and will always have a light on for us in the middle of the night.

New Brunch Eats, from a Rooftop Scene to Asian-Inspired Croissants in Bayview

Tres leches French toast at Cavaña’s new Brunch Tropicana. Photo: Travis Mocker.
Tres leches French toast at Cavaña’s new Brunch Tropicana. Photo: Travis Mocker.

There’s a new rooftop brunch happening through the summer: Brunch Tropicana at Cavaña’s outdoor terrace on top of LUMA Hotel San Francisco. New cocktails include the Carajillo (Salvadoran and Jamaican rums, red banana oleo, vanilla citrus liqueur, chicory cold brew) and Black Cherry Fizz (Puerto Rican and Salvadoran coffee rum, black cherry, hibiscus, heavy cream, egg white, lemon, soda), while brunch dishes include chilaquiles, a concha breakfast sandwich, mollete (avocado toast, black beans, chile-marinated mushrooms, fried kale, salsa macha), tres leches French toast (La Victoria Panadería pan dulce, tres leches, canela, market plums, and white peach), and cachapas (Venezuelan corn pancakes, panela cheese, ancho honey). Enjoy the view while listening to rotating DJs spinning Latin funk, Jamaican, and Afrobeat on vinyl. Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. Reservations. 100 Channel St. at 3rd St.

According to my pal Earl at the edot digest, there’s a new breakfast/brunch option coming out of the Bayview Makers Kitchen: Tiny Croissanterie is serving French-Asian croissants and coffee Wed–Sat 8am–3pm from chef-owner Jade and chef AJ (there’s a sunny deck where you can sit). Flavors include yuzu ham and cheese (French butter croissant rolled in Gruyère cheese and Black Forest ham, topped with mozzarella cheese), soybean cream mochi croissant (French butter croissant filled with housemade soybean cream and Japanese mochi, dusted with soybean powder), plus pistachio and almond croissants. And then there’s the dipped Magnum chocolate croissant (French butter croissant filled with milk chocolate cream, coated with 55% dark chocolate and glazed pecan). There are also flat croissants, like a jasmine matcha flat croissant (dipped into matcha chocolate, garnished with jasmine petal), or piña colada (dipped into coconut chocolate, garnished with fresh pineapple, rose petal, coconut chip). Pre-orders are highly advised, order here. 4100 3rd St. at Hudson.

Taste the Rainbow This Pride Week

treat yoself pastry box at four one nine

A couple food-related Pride items for you: this Friday June 28th, the Pride Bake Sale at Four One Nine is back! Local, queer bakers are making sweet treats that benefit Open House SF, an organization providing providing housing, services, and community programs to LGBTQ+ seniors. Order the Treat Yoself Pastry Box ($20), and when you pick up your goodies (Fri 8am–2pm), the chic SoMa studio will have small bouquets by Mister Lee Designs, nail sets by Jess Tong-Ahn, flash tattoos by Kat from The Little Grey, with a portion of sales benefiting Open House SF. The rooftop garden will be open for hangs. Bring friends or you can even work from there! 419 10th St. at Harrison.

Colorful dishes at Frances. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux.
Colorful seasonal dishes at Frances. Photo: Molly DeCoudreaux.

On Sunday June 30th, Frances in the Castro is open for Pride Brunch, hosting a seasonal, multi-course menu by chef Ricky Chu ($100 pp, with optional wine pairings and cocktails by wine director Iris Rowlee). The menu is scheduled to include the following: kaluga caviar with almond and dulse financier; scallop crudo with ruby grapefruit, tamarillo aguachile, and Red Rover radish; summer beans of haricots verts and butter beans with mandarin and pangrattato; Star Route lettuces with stone fruit, purple daikon, and Brokaw avocado “Green Goddess”; Anson Mills grits with blackened gulf prawns, piperade, and green garlic kimchi; choice of wagyu short rib with fried duck egg and cherry tomato salsa, or king salmon with Yukon potato, Fresno hot sauce and yogurt raita; and rainbow sherbet sundae with mullberry coulis, chiffon croutons, and crème fraîche Chantilly for dessert.

A portion of proceeds will be donated to Maitri, a neighborhood non-profit organization offering compassionate medical and mental health care to people with HIV/AIDS, people in need of hospice, 24-hour respite care, or recovery support after gender affirmation surgery. Reservations via OpenTable. 3870 17th St. at Pond.

New Service (Pizza Night!) and Special Menus

Pepperoni pizza at Black Jet Baking Co.’s new Pizza Night. Photo courtesy of Black Jet.

After running a friends-and-family trial last week, owner Gillian Shaw Lundgren at Black Jet Baking Co. in Bernal has launched a Pizza Night and evening service on Tuesdays! Come by for three kinds of slices of sourdough Sicilian from pizzaiolo Max (cheese, pepperoni, and a Brentwood corn with black pepper and Parmesan), a baby grinder (a smaller version of the meatball grinder they have at the bakery on a house Dutch crunch roll, meatballs, marinara, cheese blend, and greens), snacks (giardiniera, pimento cheese with buckwheat sourdough crackers, meatballs and sauce), salads, and save room for dessert: tiramisù, ice box cake, and strawberry shortcake layer cake! Tuesdays 5pm–8pm. 833 Cortland Ave. at Gates.

Congrats to Prospect, which is turning 14 on Friday June 28th—and the team is celebrating with throwback specials all week. I wanted to be sure you didn’t miss their jalapeño deviled eggs (with pickled Serrano chile and crispy prosciutto), Prospect’s fried chicken (with caviar ranch, crispy tater tots, Southern coleslaw with peaches, and hot honey), and triple chocolate layer cake, plus five cocktails, including The Prospector. 300 Spear St. at Folsom.

The Future of the Neon Signage at the Palace Hotel Isn’t Very Bright

The Palace Hotel’s neon signage will be converted to LED for seven years. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
The Palace Hotel’s neon signage will be converted to LED for seven years. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

I wanted to update you on the unfortunate outcome of the recent hearing about the iconic neon signage at the Palace Hotel. Our friends at SF Neon had this to report: “Sad news for neon. Many thanks for the 270 letters of support for the Palace Hotel neon. We are sorely disappointed that LED prevailed at the last City Hall hearing. On June 5 the SF Historic Preservation Commission (HPC) voted to issue a permit for the Palace Hotel to convert their neon roof signs to LEDs for 7 years. Then the permit will expire and the HPC will review whether the signs should be returned to neon. This decision isn’t all bad, more of an unsatisfactory compromise. The HPC sited the financial distress of the hotel and the fact that they had to lay off 400 employees during the pandemic. It is a better outcome than a permanent conversion to LED, but not what the neon community was hoping for in the end. 

“Backstory: SF Neon contacted Aaron Peskin (President of the San Francisco Board of Supervisors) questioning the “over the counter” permit issued to convert the Palace Hotel neon to LED lighting. We spoke up: a permit for an historic building would normally get a hearing and/or a certificate of appropriateness. Aaron responded the same day and cc’d us on his email to the City’s Director of Planning, and it took several hearings and discussion before a final vote.” Thank you to everyone who spoke up, wrote in, and tried to preserve the iconic neon signs. We’ll be back to speak up in seven years.


the sponsor

Party-goers at Foodwise Summer Bash at the San Francisco Ferry Building. Photo: Natalie Ngo/Foodwise.
Party-goers at Foodwise Summer Bash at the San Francisco Ferry Building. Photo: Natalie Ngo/Foodwise.

Savor, Sip, and Party at Foodwise Summer Bash on Sunday July 14th!

Celebrate our local food and farm community at the freshest party of the season, Foodwise Summer Bash, at the Ferry Building on Sunday July 14th. Feast on unlimited food and drink from 48 beloved Bay Area restaurants, pop-ups, and beverage makers, featuring peak-summer produce from the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

From the sunny plaza to the gorgeous Grand Hall, enjoy an epic walk-around tasting featuring Copra, Dalida, Lunette, Minnie Bell’s, 7 Adams, and many more. Savor Hadeem’s Strange Flavor Style-Fig, Chili Crisp, Tahini, and Sweet Herbs; My Friend Fernando's Corn Puff with Grilled Corn, Corn Espuma, and Salmon Roe; Norte54’s Tres Leches with Cherry Hibiscus Compote; and other hyper-seasonal delights. Proceeds support Foodwise’s farmers markets, food access initiatives, and education programs. See the full lineup.

5:30pm–8pm. Indoor/outdoor event at the San Francisco Ferry Building (Embarcadero & Market St.), 21 and up. Tickets: $170; take $15 off with promo code TABLEHOPPER.


the lush

Now Open in West Portal: Binu Bonu

The natural-chic style of Binu Bonu. Photo courtesy of Binu Bonu.
The natural-chic style of Binu Bonu. Photo courtesy of Binu Bonu.

Back in February, I broke the news about Binu Bonu, the new wine bar in West Portal (just across the street from Elena’s) from Lorella Degan and Massimiliano Conti (previously La Ciccia). Per my earlier piece: The name is Sardinian dialect for “good wine,” and the list at Binu Bonu will highlight mostly Italian wines, with a few other regions, but the main demarcation is that they will be “ethical” wines, which Massimo explains as wines from small farmers, with sustainable practices, and who are good people. 

The wall of wine for retail sale. Photo courtesy of Binu Bonu.
The wall of wine for retail sale. Photo courtesy of Binu Bonu.

They’ll offer producers like La Stoppa, Alessandro Viola, Fattoria San Lorenzo, Principano, Zidarich, Barbacan, and many others who promote sustainable and eco-friendly agriculture. You’ll also be able to grab a bottle to take home from their retail shop shelves.

A look at the snacks and by the glass list.
A look at the snacks and wines by the glass list.

There isn’t a hood, so no pasta here, but there are bites and snacks, including well-sourced cheeses and salumi (including 24-month prosciutto) and olives. Massimo brought back his captivating creation from La Nebbia: cicchetto of truffled ricotta, chocolate, and Armatore anchovies (you gotta try it!), and also added “sfizzietti”—little treats/combo plates of ingredients for you to enjoy, like Italian burratina with sun-dried Pachino tomatoes and tuna bottarga; Sardinian sheep’s milk ricotta, ventricina (a type of pork salume from Abruzzo), and bitter honey; and baby octopus with Calabrian olio santo and lime zest ($14–$15).

The gregarious couple can’t wait to see everyone. You can follow @binubonusf. Open Tue–Thu 4pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 3pm–10:30pm. 230 W. Portal Ave. at 14th Ave.

Descend Into the Redesigned Persona for Culinary-Driven Cocktails, Cool Beats, and a Sexy-Chic Underground Vibe

Down the stairs you go, sissy! Photo: © tablehopper.com.
Down the stairs you go, sissy! Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Last Tuesday, I had fun checking out the renovation and transformation of Persona, a chic underground bar that opened in 2021 in the former The Cellar in Lower Nob Hill. After operating the space for three years, owners Juan Loredo and Jose Natividad (behind Barrel House and Vinyl Room in Burlingame) and Keith Goodman brought on architect-designer Silent Studios to update the space and enhance seating, intimacy, lighting, sound, and the overall experience. 

The view from Persona’s bar into the adjoining seating areas. Photo: Aliah Husain.
The view from Persona’s bar into the adjoining seating areas. Photo: Aliah Husain.

The style pays homage to the erotic film movement in San Francisco in the 1960s–1970s, when there were cinemas in Lower Nob Hill and Sutter Street. Once you descend the stairs into the dark and moody space (with a touch of Berlin rawness and Tokyo minimalism), you just may be inspired to take on a new persona.

The moody lighting of the Sutter Cinema Nook. Photo: Aliah Husain. 
The moody lighting of the Sutter Cinema Nook. Photo: Aliah Husain. 

The bar’s spacious footprint has now been divided into different areas, which is excellent news for private parties and groups: there’s the Sutter Cinema Nook, a tribute to Arlene Elster’s adult movie theater, with room for 75 guests in a minimalist, Japanese-inspired gazebo seating area with natural materials, wood slats you can peek through, and geometric rugs (plus rich, red theater curtains and a projector displaying vintage erotic films). 

The red felt pool table in the Nob Hill Grotto. Photo: Aliah Husain. 
The red felt pool table in the Nob Hill Grotto. Photo: Aliah Husain. 

There’s also the Nob Hill Grotto, with room for 100 guests behind sliding metal doors for privacy, plus a new, red felt pool table and a large communal table. The walls feature vintage erotic cinema ads and gold resin drips from artist Caroline Lizarraga. 

The space is anchored by a large, 35-seat, U-shaped bar in the middle, illuminated by golden disc lights, with hidden mirror TVs behind the back bar. There are also flip-up tables you can sit at if you make a new friend.

Additional seating includes two sleek booths inspired by Blade Runner, with a touch of Brutalist architecture from the large cement tiles, and pendants of curved metal and rounded wood suspended from the ceiling.

My favorite cocktail: The Devil in Miss Jones. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
My favorite cocktail: The Devil in Miss Jones. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

The new cocktail menu from bar manager Mario Escobar and lead bartenders Benny Galeano and Marcus Simmons is destination-worthy on its own: it’s full of creative culinary ingredients (and inspired by erotic cinema and its stars). A personal favorite is The Devil in Miss Jones (mezcal, beets, cucumber, turmeric, ginger, lime, and celery bitters—so healthy!) and the Pay Close Attention has captivating notes of lemongrass, makrut lime leaves, Carpano Antica, Campari, gin, citrus oil, and cardamom. 

For Negroni lovers: Pay Close Attention. Photo: © tablehopper.com.
For Negroni lovers: Pay Close Attention. Photo: © tablehopper.com.

The Matcha Mirage will perk you up (gin, matcha, mint, lime, agave), or you can go full throttle with the Cafe Noir (vodka, Cognac, Galliano, mocha, cold brew espresso, gum syrup, coffee liqueur). There’s an entire booklet of cocktails to taste your way through, and most are $15–$17.

The space is built for enjoying cocktails over music—the entertainment area was updated, and now there’s a DJ nest, where DJs can spin vinyl records or digital tracks. Rotating DJs play Thu–Sun 9pm–2am, and on Wednesdays, enjoy the Magic School Busk band (no cover). Open nightly 5pm–2am. 685 Sutter St. at Taylor.

Ginger’s Is Back for Pride Weekend, Bar 49 Opens in the Castro

A pic from Ginger’s (re)opening night in 2017—they still had the sign! Photo: © tablehopper.com.
A pic from Ginger’s (re)opening night in 2017—they still had the sign! Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Last month, I was happy to see a post from Ginger’s that the longtime, downtown queer bar was reopening on Pride weekend (it has been closed since the pandemic). I used to go there when it was Ginger’s Trois on Kearny in the 90s for drinks after work—it was a campy gay island in a sea of FiDi bars (we used to call it Ginger’s Twat, ha ha ha!). Future Bars took it over in 2008, and closed it in 2009 to open Rickhouse in the location (bye-bye, strong-AF dive bar drinks—you would practically need a chaser with your Greyhound). Future Bars later opened a new version of Ginger’s in the basement/storage area of Rickhouse in 2017 (you now enter the bar on Hardie Place). 

Fast forward through the ugly pandemic, and now, four years later, GM Dana Martinelli is overseeing the bar management and reopening the bar for Pride! There are three days of festivities, starting with the grand reopening this Friday June 28th. There will be a ribbon cutting with Sister Bubbles Bathory at 6pm, plus food, cocktails, drag, burlesque, and more (get advance tickets for just $10 here)! Pride Saturday is Pop Awff! For Pride, with drag performances and drink specials (starting at 9pm), and Sunday is Queer Power Party, with DJs, performances, and more, starting at 2pm (conveniently close to the parade route!). No word what the bar hours will be after Pride, but for now, welcome back, Ginger’s! Gurl! Downtown needs you and your rainbow flag. 86 Hardie Pl. at Kearny.

The new bar (and beer and wine list) at Bar 49 in the Castro. Instagram photo via @barfortyninesf.
The new bar (and beer and wine list) at Bar 49 in the Castro. Instagram photo via @barfortyninesf.

More queer bar business news: last week, I noticed Bar 49 had opened in the Castro from Colm O’Brien (previously Hi Tops and Lookout), in the former Bagdad Café space from long ago, and most recently, Los Amigos. Hoodline has the menus and details about this beer-focused bar, with 49 kinds of beer (12 on draft) and wine, plus pub-style food and weekend brunch, and pics of the updated space (view more on @barfortyninesf). Open Mon–Thu 4pm–12am, Fri 12pm–2pm, Sat 11am–2am, and Sun 11am–12am (kitchen closes around 9:30pm nightly). 2295 Market St. at Noe.


the archivist

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