what’s cookin’
I hope you got to enjoy yourself during that three-day weekend! I needed it to finish reading the brand-new Lustful Appetites in order to prepare for the conversation I had with author Rachel Hope Cleves Tuesday night at Omnivore Books. It was such a lively event, and I fell deeply in love with this magnificently researched book that is all about the intersections and through-lines of sexuality and queerness and cuisine and restaurants and women’s appetites and liberation over the past three hundred years (in Europe and the U.S.). Gay waiters, trans femme entertainers, SF’s pretty girl waiters in saloons, bohemianism, the Bloomsbury Group, Colette, Craig Claiborne, Isadora Duncan, gay gourmets, Gael Greene, lesbian potlucks, and even Ruth Reichl all get mentions—it’s the book we need right now.
On Saturday, I had a fun outing to Bayview for Gumbo Social’s second annual Hey Auntie! gumbo cooking competition—it was a special kind of dream to taste so many different styles of gumbo! Great turnout. Big congrats to tablehopper editorial assistant Savannah Leone Bundy for tying for first place with her family’s seafood gumbo—it was a banger. I’m selfishly trying to figure out how we can have it in our lives again.
Last Tuesday, I attended the pre-opening dinner party/preview for the updated Izzy’s Steaks & Chops in the Marina (such a scene!), you can read about most of it in today’s column—subscribers get the full rundown. I also previewed a local restaurant’s new wood-fired oven sandwiches, but you have to be a supporting subscriber to read all about those bad boys. And I finally made it over to Ilna, the Cali-Lebanese pop-up from Maz Naba happening at Buddy on Sundays, stand by for an update on all that deliciousness soon.
Speaking of updates, after running last week’s postcard of the glam Rocca’s in the archivist, I had a longtime reader chime in with some history and personal stories about the restaurant! (If you were a subscriber, you’d be able to read their notes in today’s archivist.)
I’m about to pop some bubbles 🍾 (always), because this Friday February 21st is tablehopper’s 19th birthday! Can you believe that? Things were looking bleak a few years ago, but thanks to the generous support of my subscribers, the hopper is still truckin’. Many of you have been part of tablehopper’s growth and journey, helping me build it as I flew it over these many years. I am so grateful. Thank you! Time for me to start planning the 20th birthday blowout! You know I love to throw a party.
Here’s another way to wish the hopper a Hoppy Birthday: can you please tell your friends and family about my newsletter? I would so appreciate any posts and referrals and forwards to your friends about why you enjoy reading it every week. This is not the time to keep tablehopper a secret, as I have heard many of you say in the past. There’s always room at the table for more readers! Grazie mille!
Since I lost a few hours of writing while at Tuesday night’s author event, I wasn’t able to deep dive into as many stories in today’s column as I planned—there are only so many hours in the day. I’m also working on a supporting subscriber–only pet project to thank all of you for sticking with me and getting tablehopper to nineteen, so stand by for that tasty treat.
Raising my glass! Let’s do it in person! I hope to see you at James Beard Foundation’s Taste America: SF Bay Area on Sunday.
Cheers and mwah! 🥂💋
~Marcia
the chatterbox
It’s a New Era for Izzy’s Steaks & Chops, the Marina’s Longtime Steakhouse and Living Room
Last Tuesday evening, the friends and family preview dinner for the updated Izzy’s Steaks & Chops in the Marina was quite the scene, with the gleaming new bar area swirling with guests like Alexis Traina and Ken Fulk, and Mayor Lurie was in the back private booth (designer Jay Jeffers swung by our booth to say hello). However, I know the conversation at my table was the spiciest: I invited the fabulous Juanita MORE!, Mr. David Glamamore, and Eli Kind as my guests to thank them for all the support they showed my event last year at the Savoy Tivoli—we had a blast sharing our SF stories over cocktails and filet mignon in our private booth.
The legacy restaurant opened in 1987 from famed SF restaurateur Sam DuVall, and now the second generation has given the almost-40-year-old steak and chophouse quite the update, from a casual Barbary Coast tavern to a contemporary yet classic steakhouse style. DuVall’s daughter and managing partner of The DuVall Family Hospitality Group, Samantha DuVall Bechtel, worked with New York AD100 studio GACHOT on the six-month historic restoration and renovation (their first SF project), and brought on executive chef Daniel Lucero (AFICI, Bouchon Bistro, Joël Robuchon) to upgrade the restaurant’s steakhouse menu.
The project was quite the massive undertaking. DuVall Bechtel says, “Taking the reins of my father’s four-decade-old legacy has been both an honor and a responsibility I don’t take lightly. With this renovation, we’re not just refreshing the space—we’re elevating every detail to meet the standards of today’s diner while staying true to the heart and soul of Izzy’s. It’s about building on the foundation he created and reimagining it for the next generation of San Francisco. Izzy’s has always had a strong soul. Our job is to keep that soul alive.” The project has a similar ethos to the nearby Little Original Joe’s on how to usher a treasured SF icon into a new era for the modern diner, while honoring its DNA and what longtime customers love about the place. Izzy’s started making updates a few years ago with their cocktails and menu, and now it’s time for the full reveal.
The exterior of the building (which I learned was once a post office) is sporting a new paint job, and now you’ll really notice the gold eagles at the corners of the roofline. The interior has a classic American steakhouse aesthetic, with lots of dark and glossy wood, banquettes, and the gleaming restored bar has Art Deco pendant lights, with a black and white diamond checkered floor. The lighting in the dining room feels very supper clubby, with white tablecloths on the tables and contemporary chairs that feature a nailhead trim—the semi-private booths in the back were preserved.
The showpiece in the main dining room is no longer the wall of sauces and old beer signs—there is now an incredible mural by Matthew Benedict, which looks like something you’d see at Musso and Frank’s in Hollywood. It features the restaurant’s namesake, Izzy Gomez, a bootlegger during the Prohibition era, as well as Sam DuVall, and characters from William Saroyan’s novel and film, The Time of Your Life (I hope to get more details about the mural during an artist tour soon!). It’s timeless and beautifully done.
The second floor is another world, now called “The Front Room” as a nod to Sam DuVall’s first restaurant in 1964 on Nob Hill. It can be booked as one of the coolest private rooms in the City, featuring a stone fireplace with lounge seating, a skylight that was uncovered during the renovation, a private bar, and 127 pictures, memorabilia, and artwork hung salon-style on the walls. (I’m going to be posting very soon about my visit on @tablehopper so you can see some video and more pics of the space.)
Chef Lucero has kept the integrity of Izzy’s classic American menu intact while updating the dishes with a contemporary touch, with dishes like...
Order their minty espresso martini (made with Pernod and Fernet Branca Menta) to eventually get up from the table—it’s like a caffeinated and boozy reincarnation of the Andes mint.
Izzy’s general beverage director Daniel Cameron (Nopa, The Battery) highlights local picks like Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee rosé, and Old World selections like Billecart-Salmon rosé from the Coravin. Will it be a vermentino from Reeve in Sonoma County, or a Sancerre from Sauterau? Cocktails range from a classic Izzy’s Gibson to zero-proof cocktails, like the Newgroni with Wilderton Lustre and Bittersweet Aperitivo, verjus blanc, simple syrup, and salt. The Negroni Sour was a fun place to start—here’s to a new era at Izzy’s.
Opening dinner service is Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm (Fri–Sat until 10pm), and will expand to nightly service in March. 3345 Steiner St. at Chestnut.
Souley Vegan Is Making a Triumphant Return to Jack London Square
On Friday evening, I led a visiting journalist to some destinations featured on Visit Oakland’s Vegan Trail, which I wrote a few years ago. One of my favorite spots on the trail was Souley Vegan from chef and CEO Tamearra Dyson, known for her made-from-scratch, Louisiana Creole-style vegan food. Souley started in 2006 as a stand at the Grand Lake Farmers Market, and Dyson opened her brick and mortar in 2009. She even beat Bobby Flay on the Food Network, the first vegan to do so in 28 seasons!
Sadly, she outgrew and closed her brick-and-mortar restaurant in Jack London Square in 2023, and now, she’s reopening just a couple blocks away. The new space was formerly The Port, and she says it’s going to offer her much more room to spread her wings and support the community. At the moment, she’s operating the location as an event space, and is planning to open the restaurant part of the business the first week of April (around the 5th–6th).
Dyson loves to develop plant-based food items, and her extensive menu features items like Deez Ain’t Gator Bites, with her housemade version of diced Louisiana hot links (so good!) and mushrooms battered in a Creole spiced mix. She makes okra gumbo and jambalaya (with housemade seitan), and her burgers featured savory housemade patties with her own “cheeze,” and special sauces. At her Valentine’s Day event, I got to try her vegan feta cheeze on a spinach salad that was brilliant. Of course, she has new dishes in store for the upcoming menu.
She’s intending to open the restaurant Thursdays to Saturdays or Sundays, with full dinner service, and R&B brunch on the weekends, and then offer the space for rentals and events on the off nights—there’s a stage, and an open kitchen, ideal for team-building events and cooking classes. Since there are two kitchens, she can support up-and-coming chefs, rent the space to caterers, hold pop-ups, and use the additional kitchen for her upcoming meal prep line.
The space has room for 100–120 seated guests and 200 standing, plus outdoor seating for 70. She’s excited that the opening will be happening when warmer weather is arriving. There’s also a full bar.
Dyson observes that this new space and business plan will not only allow her team to thrive, but to also sustain over time in this challenging business climate. She has been putting a lot of time and work into this business and brand over the years and is being very strategic with this next iteration.
It’s also important to Dyson that she has a space where she can offer support to the community, from mentorship to connection to supporting fellow entrepreneurs. She powerfully shared with me: “I’m so happy to be back in Oakland and serving the community again. I’m looking forward to people seeing this project, and how I have developed as an entrepreneur. Souley is a journey, not just a business. It has developed and grown because of the trials, and the next chapter is going to be stronger and better and brighter. My entire life is a process. I lean into the tough times and learn and come back better. I want to show myself to people how you can come back stronger, and we can be happy.” Here’s to Souley Vegan’s next chapter, I can’t wait to witness the growth and constant leveling up of this beloved brand and restaurant. Follow @souleyvegan for updates, and watch for buffets and events in the lead-up to the opening. 101 Broadway at 2nd St., Oakland.
Tablehopper Subscriber Exclusive: A Beloved SF Restaurant Just Launched an Oven-Roasted Sandwich To-Go Shop
Bob’s Donuts Opens Their New Polk Street Location This Friday
Just a few days ago, Bob’s Donuts announced on Instagram that they’re soft-opening their new doughnut shop location on Polk Street this Friday February 21st. The Ahn family shares: “We’ll be hanging all of the amazing artwork from the community on our walls, handing out some donuts to try, and will have them for sale as well (try the buttermilk if you haven’t already!!) Looking forward to opening our doors and seeing all of you there 🎉 first 80 people in the door get a free Bob’s tote!!” The new location has more space and a modern, minimalist style. Hours will be 10am–5pm to start.
To recap, they’re sadly closing their iconic original location (at 1621 Polk at Sacramento) due to lease negotiation issues with their landlord (boo) and are thankfully reopening in the former Lotta’s Bakery at 1720 Polk Street at Clay—you can read more in my previous post here. This SFGATE story shares the original location will stay open until its lease runs out in November.
Fun Events and Pop-Ups and Special Menus
One Market Restaurant’s annual celebration of Black History Month returns from Monday February 24th to Friday February 28th, with a special collaboration menu from chef Mark Dommen with chef Nelson German of Oakland’s alaMar and Sobre Mesa.
The menu will be paired with wines from Mac McDonald of Vision Cellars, a pioneering African American winemaker who is retiring after a distinguished career in the wine industry. This collaboration is a special opportunity to honor Mac’s contributions to the wine industry as he closes his shop after decades of excellence. Tonya Pitts–James Beard Award semifinalist and sommelier and wine director at One Market–will pair each dish with Mac McDonald’s wines, and highlight selections from other African American wineries. On Tuesday February 25th, chef Nelson German and Mac McDonald will be in person at One Market for an unforgettable evening. Select wines will also be available all month long at One Market in honor of Black History Month. Ten percent of the sales from this special menu will benefit the Museum of the African Diaspora. Make a reservation at onemarket.com.
If you ever attended Mardi Gras at Town Hall, then you already know how much brothers Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal love to throw a party. This Friday February 21st, consider this Mardi Gras Ball at Sweetwater Music Hall in Mill Valley your warm-up for the big day, with live music and a stacked menu of their buttermilk country fried chicken, andouille sausage or vegetarian jambalaya, shrimp file gumbo with okra and green onion rice, classic or vegetarian muffuletta, Creole potato salad, and classic king cake! The party starts at 6pm.
Closures Include Miller & Lux Provisions at Union Square, Jeanne D’Arc Restaurant, and Kowbird in Oakland
This just in from SF Examiner: “Celebrity chef Tyler Florence stepped away from a role operating two cafes in Union Square last week right before the start of the NBA All-Star weekend…To replace Miller & Lux Provisions, baker Belinda Leong’s b. Patisserie over the weekend and on Tuesday set up shop at the kiosk near Powell Street across from the Westin St. Francisco Hotel.” Nothing is confirmed (yet!) if Belinda Leong will continue to do more at the hastily vacated kiosks (she already has a rotisserie concept at b. on the go, so it would be a pretty amazing fit into both spaces), but we can only hope. Union Square needs her kouign-amann! Also, no word on how much of the $440,000 grant from the City to upgrade and open the two spaces remains. (So much for Miller & Lux Provisions heralding a new era at Union Square).
the sponsor
Find Chill Vibes and Tasty Bites on the Patio at citizenM Menlo Park: Year-Round Food Truck Delight!
citizenM Menlo Park brings a fresh hospitality experience to Silicon Valley—blending playfulness with tech-forward design, perfect for business travelers and worker bees. To enhance its offerings, citizenM recently launched a year-round food truck stationed on the hotel’s outdoor patio. Available for guests and passerby alike, the food truck offers the perfect pit stop for tasty, on-the-go bites.
Located on the fringe of Meta’s campus, citizenM is the ideal spot for remote workers seeking a change of scenery, practicing that all-important pitch, or simply enjoying a post-work drink on the patio. Skip the traditional sit-down hotel dining affair and enjoy the laid-back charm of a food truck instead. Fast, fresh, and fuss-free, the food truck is perfect for busy travelers seeking a quick, satisfying meal.
The menu features gourmet hot dogs with a variety of options, from all-beef, chipotle chicken, tofu beer brat, or southwest buffalo bratwurst, and customizable toppings. The food truck also offers tempting sides, including fries, a garden salad, and pretzel bites, along with a selection of local draft beers, and other refreshing drinks.
Whether grabbing a bite before a meeting, unwinding after a day of exploring, or just enjoying the sunshine, the food truck is available year-round. Stop by and experience the relaxed, vibrant atmosphere that makes citizenM special!
Address: 2 Meta Wy., Menlo Park, CA 94025
Food Truck Hours: Sunday–Thursday, 4pm–9pm
the lush
LGBTQIA+ Winemakers Are in The Spotlight at Next Month’s Vinguard Event
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On March 1st, The Vinguard (the SF-based nonprofit whose focus is fostering equity, sustainability, and inclusivity in the wine industry) is hosting a wine fair—or Wine Flair, that is— to amplify the work of queer winemakers. Put on in collaboration with Co-Fermented (an organization facilitating representation for LGBTQIA+ in the industry), the event will be held at The Academy and feature wines from thirteen queer-identifying importers and winemakers: Amy Atwood Selections, Camins 2 Dreams, Cary Q Wines, En Cavale, Etteilla, Franchere Wine, Kareen Wine, Loella—EWC Wine, Miscreant, Roni Selects, Ruby Blanca Wines, Terah Wine Co., and Ward Four Wines.
Proceeds from the $40 tickets (available here) will help fund Wine Flair events in areas of the country where LGBTQIA+ rights are under attack. Saturday March 1st, 5pm–8pm. 2166 Market St. at Sanchez.
From Beer to Burgundy: Two Major Events Are Happening This Month
SF Beer Week is here, running February 21st–March 2nd, with a kick-off party this Friday, and numerous events, launches, tastings, takeovers, and collaborations all week and all over the Bay Area. Cheers! 🍻
Burgundy lovers: the La Paulée Burgundy Wine Festival (founded by Daniel Johnnes) is back in San Francisco February 27th–March 1st for its 25th anniversary, the first time since 2018. Over 25 of Burgundy’s great estates will be pouring at the events, from legendary domaines to cutting-edge biodynamic growers at vertical tastings, dinners, and seminars.
There are numerous events, take a look and make sure you have room on your credit card for some of them. The San Francisco Gala Dinner includes Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski of State Bird/The Progress/The Anchovy Bar, as well as Michael Tusk (Quince), Daniel Boulud from NYC (represented by his right hand Jean-François Bruel), and the Slanted Door team will be participating in Charles Phan’s honor. There’s also a Grand Tasting, with over one hundred wines that will be presented, along with small plates from Rich Table, The Morris, Ungrafted, and others. Both events will be held at the Conservatory at One Sansome on Saturday March 1st.
