what’s cookin’
Howdy, fab readers! You ready? Let’s rock. Yours truly managed to be out on the town almost every day or night this past week, hop hop. Last week’s lineup included a fun dinner with the boys at Altamirano, the modern Peruvian restaurant that opened in my old ’hood on Fulton Street across from Lucky (gotta love free parking); I picked up a trio of sick grandma slices from Outta Sight II in Chinatown/FiDi (they’re having so much fun over there); I attended a friends and family lunch at the new Turtle Tower (read all about it below!); and tried a huge muffuletta on a sesame bagel from the new Bageletto in the Mission—I’ll be sharing my thoughts and pics soon.
But first, I gotta get through today’s onslaught of news. (Like our current weather—when it rains, it pours.) Thank goddess my bratty laptop is finally working and chugging along like I need it to—keep up with me, damn it! Praise be. I was losing my mind.
It’s past time for me to hop out of town for a little jaunt: I’m looking forward to attending a dinner at The Restaurant at North Block in Yountville next Thursday March 20th, featuring the spring iteration of executive chef Juan Cabrera’s Valley to Coast Tasting Menu, coinciding with the spring equinox (bring on the white asparagus, English peas, and green strawberries!). The five-course dinner will be paired with wines from Aonair Napa Valley; there are still a few tickets available here. I love Wine Country in the spring—admiring the green hills and fields and mustard greens is always therapeutic.
Speaking of green, don’t forget to wear some on St. Patrick’s Day—I have a few ideas of where to go and what to eat in today’s column, and a whole lot more.
Let’s dig in!
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Turtle Tower Is Soft Opening Their New FiDi Location This Wednesday March 12th!
If you follow @tablehopper on Instagram, you may have seen that over the weekend, I was thrilled to attend a friends and family preview lunch service of the new Turtle Tower location in the Financial District. Last month, I reported Turtle Tower owner Steven Nghia Pham has partnered with longtime regular and investor Arash Ghanadan and Hilwin Wong (they have a hospitality group that owns Novela, Barbarossa, Dahlia Lounge, and Madarae) to reopen our city’s iconic Vietnamese restaurant in the former Barbacco.
The new location has 84 seats, and the update includes suspended basket light fixtures when you first walk in, a fresh paint job, some floral panels on the back bar, new flooring, and plants that have some fun uplighting along the banquette that extends the length of the restaurant, giving the space a lighter, tropical feeling. There’s also a wall of photos in the back of the restaurant, including one of the namesake Tháp Rùa (Turtle Tower) in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake in central Hanoi.
Soon, the shelves behind the bar will be filled with bottles since they have a full liquor license. The menu has some new snacky appetizers, which will be great for future happy hour at the bar, including cánh gà chiên (three Hanoi-style fried chicken wings; $18), gỏi đủ đủ (papaya salad; $15), and tôm bọc chiên giòn (crispy fried shrimp wrapped in wonton paper, served with dipping sauce; $15).
The list of phở features 10 kinds—including, of course, their iconic phở gà (free-range chicken)—SF is so lucky to have our most reliable cold- and hangover-buster back in our midst. Naturally, with the new FiDi address and spiffy upgrade, everyone is wondering about the prices. At Turtle Tower on Larkin, you used to be able to order two sizes of phở, which were usually $12.50–$13.75 for a small, and $14.40–$15.75 for a large (who ever orders a small, anyway?). At this new location, the phở comes in one size (large), and ranges from $19–$20 for a bowl. Considering we now have this beloved phở back in our lives, and we can enjoy it in this sleek new location, I’m like, take my money.
Two of the bún dishes carried over to the new menu: bún thang (chicken, finely sliced egg, fancy pork vermicelli noodle soup), and bún chả Hà Nội (Hanoi-style grilled pork meat and patty served with vermicelli noodle and herbs, served dry), each $19.50 (about $3.50 more than they formerly were).
Three rice plates include cơm gà hoặc bò xào cà chua, hành tây, tỏi tây và cà rốt (stir-fried beef or chicken with celery, carrot, leek, tomato, and onion in gravy sauce with steamed rice); cơm sốt vang (beef stewed in red wine with steamed rice); and cơm thịt nướng hoặc gà nướng (Hanoi-style grilled pork or chicken served with steamed rice); all $19. For dessert, there’s bánh flan (flan with black coffee and crushed ice; $11) and bánh kẹp (pandan waffle with fresh made whip; $12).
The beer, wine, and cocktail list will be built out in coming days—they’ll start with bottled beer for now. They’re going to hold their soft opening for the public this Wednesday March 12th, and the grand opening date is TBD—they need to staff up first (they’re busy hiring, training their team, and ramping up—go apply!).
Hours for now are Mon–Fri 10:30am–2:30pm, with dinner hours coming later for the grand opening. Welcome back, Turtle Tower—here’s to your 25th year, even though we missed you for a couple of them. You’re looking great. 220 California St. at Front.
Union Square Will Soon Be Smelling Like Buttery Kouign Amann: b. Patisserie Is Opening an Outpost Later This Month
Exciting news out of Union Square: Belinda Leong and Michel Suas of b. Patisserie have signed a one-year lease to take over the bakery/café kiosk that Tyler Florence abruptly shuttered after just 15 months of operating his Miller & Lux Provisions concept, more than a year before his three-year lease was up. (You can read all the details of the the project implosion, the grant money spent, the RFP process, and more in this SF Examiner piece and SF Chronicle article, which also mentions Florence’s plans to take over Town Hall in SoMa have fallen through).
If you recall, b. Patisserie came in as a last-minute pop-up to activate and operate the café when Florence closed right before the NBA All-Star weekend—Leong and Suas tell me there were so exhausted after Lunar New Year and Valentine’s Day (super-busy periods for the bakery), but the Union Square Alliance reached out about needing help with the sudden vacancy, and so they jumped in (with just two days to prepare!). Suas shares they worked with Florence’s staff to help run the café over the weekend, and the City was very accommodating. They were so busy that they had to make four trips to their bakery in one day to replenish the cases. People around Union Square were happy to see the space activated, and were asking the team, “Why just a pop-up? You should stay!”
And so, the b. Patisserie team is going to try it out for a year, attempt to generate foot traffic in Union Square, and see how far it can go. The good news is with all the money Florence spent on equipment, at least it’s still there and they can use it, like the $18,000 La Marzocco espresso machine and the display cases. Suas says they want to put in an oven so they can bake fresh product on-site throughout the day, which is important to their ethos and the level of quality they are committed to provide for their customers. (And, we can all agree: the smell of kouign amann baking is difficult to resist.)
The lineup will be mostly the same as what’s in the cases at b. Patisserie on California Street (which just turned 12!), and will include their trademark kouign amann (nature, seasonal, and chocolate), scones, coffee cakes, croissants, financiers, bostock (my fave), desserts, and they will also have panini/pressed sandwiches. They will be working with a San Francisco roaster for the espresso/coffee service.
Leong, a San Francisco native, commented: “I think it’s very cool that we were asked to help to revive Union Square, especially if I can give back and help in any way to see this city thrive again! We’re not saying we will succeed or are any better than anyone else, but we just want to try and help where we can.” I love this attitude.
As for the larger café across the plaza, it sounds like it’s about a year away from being ready—the City will be making updates to the space, and is considering what would be the optimal concept and future tenant.
b. Patisserie is hoping to open the café kiosk the end of March or thereabouts (pending health inspections)—but first, they’ll be updating and painting the space to represent their branding and colors (yellow and brown) and installing an oven. Hours to start will be Wed–Sun 8am–4pm, and they may open earlier if the workers in the area need it. Stand by for more! Union Square, 350 Powell St. at Geary.
KIS Café Is Opening in the Former Petit Crenn in Hayes Valley
Thanks to tablehopper friend Ken W., who sent me a tip about a project that is moving into the former Petit Crenn in Hayes Valley: due to open this April is KIS Café. The project is from chef Luke Sung of the nearby Domo Sushi (and he previously opened Isa Restaurant in the Marina, which back in the day was early in the small plates trend) and Eric Lin, who left the world of asset management and fundraising to pursue his passion for food and cooking (Lin tells me he loved his recent experience working at Katsuo & Kombu).
They’re currently hiring and gunning for an April opening, when I should have even more details to share. 609 Hayes St. at Laguna.
Lord Stanley Is Going Out With a Bang After 10 Years
Darn, I just moved to the neighborhood, and Lord Stanley has sadly announced their upcoming closure at the end of May. I remember when owners Carrie and Rupert Blease were first opening their highly personal restaurant 10 years ago in a former Thai restaurant at the corner of Polk and Broadway, and their talented and dedicated team has been with them from the beginning (including wine director Louisa Smith and chef de cuisine Nathan Matkowsky).
They have accomplished so much over the past decade, with a million pivots and iterations and programs, like their Turntable concept of hosting visiting chefs-in-residence, a takeaway window, and wine club, oh, and they earned a Michelin star. I have always admired their creativity and resourcefulness, their chef community–building skills, as well as their kind hospitality and ability to create an absolute vibe in their restaurant, and on such a busy corner (they really transformed that funky space).
Speaking with Carrie, she said they have been discussing their impending 10-year lease renewal, and felt like they have done all they can in the space—they decided it was time, and wanted to end their run on their own terms. She said they want to treat the closure like an achievement, and go out with a bang and a party. (This is so refreshing to hear, instead of yet another story of the challenging business conditions in San Francisco wreaking havoc and spelling the demise of a beloved restaurant.)
Leading up to their last service on May 31st, the final two weeks will feature a menu of Lord Stanley’s greatest hits and classic dishes (Carrie said people were asking about the onion petal dish!), and some collaborations with past guest chefs are likely to appear on the calendar as well. You can book a reservation for the finale menu May 18th–May 31st here.
Thankfully, this isn’t the end of the Bleases in San Francisco—it ends up they have another project in the works, and will be sharing more about it soon. Chef de cuisine Matkowsky has been wanting to return to the East Coast and his family, and open his own thing there—he’ll be heading out in the fall. Wine director Louisa Smith will continue her consulting projects, and will be involved with the new project. Thanks to the team for all the elegant meals and memories—I’m raising my glass to the past, and the future. 2065 Polk St. at Broadway.
San Francisco’s Sole Portuguese Restaurant, Uma Casa, Is Sadly Closing at the End of March
Across town in Noe Valley, our big-hearted chef-owner Telmo Faria and his wife, Jessi, have announced the upcoming closure of San Francisco’s sole Portuguese restaurant, Uma Casa, on March 29th, after 10 years of business. I remember when Faria struck out on his own, and have always admired how much it meant to him to faithfully represent Portuguese cuisine, culture, and be a bright light in the neighborhood through tough times. I thought his parklet modeled after a Lisbon cable car was one of the most creative pandemic structures!
Faria sent a personal letter to subscribers about the closure: “Roughly 10 years ago, I took a leap of faith and set out on a mission to follow my long time dream of opening a Portuguese restaurant in the city I loved, San Francisco.
“Everything about the subsequent journey has been incredibly rewarding and simultaneously immensely humbling. From putting together a business plan, executing a series of pop-ups all over different venues in this city, to finding a space, to the build out, to opening our doors to the public in January of 2017, all made possible by the incredible support and encouragement of so many people along the way. People that owed me nothing, had no obligation to help me on my journey, and in most cases had nothing to gain but to help me chase my dream and try to bring my vision to life. They are too many to name, but you know who you are, and I’m eternally grateful.
“And just like all things have a beginning, sadly this particular journey is coming to an end. The last day of Uma Casa Portuguese restaurant will be on Saturday March 29th.
“Believe me when I say that during these 8+ years, I’ve literally put blood, sweat, and tears into making Uma Casa the restaurant that it has been. Is it perfect ? No. But neither am I or are most of the things and people that we love in this life, and it’s those quirks and imperfections that make them unique and a special part of our lives, and I’m very proud of everything we’ve accomplished along this incredible journey.
“I won’t get into the sob story or blame game, or redundant details and circumstances around having to close the restaurant, as they are all too familiar and common place these days in San Francisco and beyond, but I will say that each step of the way we fought like heck and tried our best to consistently show up, to adapt and adjust without compromising or sacrificing the culture, vision and privilege of being San Francisco’s only Portuguese restaurant.
He adds: “I’d love for the next 3 weeks to be one huge party, an opportunity to eat your favorite dish one (or two…) more time, to enjoy your favorite wine or cocktail before its departure, and most importantly to see a familiar face again while we’re around. Let’s celebrate this little Portuguese restaurant that was built by a village. Adeus and Obrigado - Telmo, Jessi, Rocky, and the Uma Casa family.” Obrigada, Telmo and team, for all the ways you showed up and fed the community! (Pearl & Pecker will forever make me laugh.) 1550 Church St. at Duncan.
A couple more notes from places around town:
The Shota posted about a temporary closure of their high-end omakase sushi counter, starting March 17th—I imagine they want to focus on getting their new Bar Shoji up and running. 115 Sansome St.
I was dismayed to hear what a tough time the family-owned The Jug Shop is having after their temporary move (while waiting to move back into the mixed-use structure being constructed at their longtime former location). Things sound dire for the 60-year-old wine shop (since 1965!) and legacy business. Show your support and go buy some wine at 1648 Pacific Ave. Read more in SF Examiner, and here’s their GoFundMe.
Antoine’s Cookie Shop Is Coming to the Former Woodhouse Fish Co. Location on Market
Coming this June or July to the former Woodhouse Fish Co. in the Duboce Triangle will be a third location of Antoine’s Cookie Shop, which first opened in San Mateo in 2016, and Palo Alto in 2021. Owner Antoine Tang makes 11 kinds of cookies (the cookies and cream is a best seller)...
He’s happy to open in Duboce Triangle, and is looking forward to being part of the neighborhood. 2073 Market St. at 14th St.
Caché, a Modern Bistro, Is Now Serving Brunch, Lunch, and Dinner in the Inner Sunset
Last week, I mentioned Caché was close to opening in the former Queens in the Inner Sunset, and French owners Florent Thomas and chef Simon Mounier actually decided to soft-open on Saturday March 8th (you can read more about them in my preview piece here)! Here’s my sneak peek video of a preview dinner, and they are launching with a bang, offering brunch and lunch as well.
Open Wed–Mon, serving lunch 10am–2pm on weekdays, and brunch 10:30am–2pm on weekends. Dinner 5pm–9:30pm. 1235 9th Ave. at Lincoln.
More New Openings Around Town, from Shabu Shabu to Thai Brunch
Festive Bites for Pi Day and St. Patrick’s Day
This Friday March 14th is Pi Day (3.14), and Flour + Water Pizza Shop is upgrading to-go orders with free Big Slice coins all day (while supplies last). Each order placed in-person or via a third-party platform (like DoorDash, UberEats) will receive one coin for a complimentary to-go slice. Coins can be redeemed at either the Pizza Shop at the North Beach Pizzeria flagship, or the soon-to-open Pizza Shop at the new Mission Rock. 1533 Stockton St.
St. Patrick’s Day is next Monday March 17th, and some local bakeries are celebrating early:
And from March 17th–21st, One Market will be serving their three-course St. Patrick’s Day dinner (leek and potato soup, corned beef with caramelized cabbage, and a Valrhona chocolate Irish cream pot o’crème for dessert). $59 per person. Reservations here.
One more note: BRAVA in the Mission is hosting a special screening of the film Kneecap on March 17th; after the show, present your ticket stub at Casements (2351 Mission St.) for a free cocktail!
the sugar mama
Savor the Flavors of Oakland Restaurant Week March 20th–30th, 2025! Enter to Win a Night Out on The Town!
Oakland Restaurant Week is back, offering 10 days of exclusive menus, special deals, and unique dining experiences across the city. With over 120+ participating restaurants, it’s an opportunity to explore Michelin-recognized destinations, neighborhood favorites, and emerging culinary spots.
Recently crowned the #1 Best Food City in the U.S. by Condé Nast Traveler readers, Oakland is the place for bold flavors and unique dining experiences. Whether you’re enjoying a tasting menu, a beloved neighborhood favorite, or a new take on global flavors, each dish reflects Oakland’s diverse culinary landscape.
Enter to win a gift certificate to one of these participating restaurants so you can check out their ORW special menus: a $150 gift certificate at Bardo Lounge & Supper Club, and another winner will get $100 to Lake Chalet.
To enter to win, all you need to do is visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram!
Two lucky winners will be announced on Monday March 17th (at 11am PT), so don’t delay. Prizes to be fulfilled by Visit Oakland.
the starlet
Awwww, as if we don’t already miss him SO DAMN MUCH—former President Barack Obama was spotted in North Beach last Thursday March 6th, leaving Quince’s private Officina space above Vesuvio. [via SFGATE]
the archivist
by Savannah Bundy
