what’s cookin’
I hope y’all had a fab Fogusty weekend. I was supposed to escape the mist and head up to the Russian River for some much-needed R&R, and instead, I spotted that hideous second pink line on my COVID test a couple hours before I was going to hit the road. La Puta Rona strikes again, unbelievable. This makes it four times that she has had the cruelest timing! Bish! I think I got it from Bibendum last Monday—it was his revenge for me talking smack about the Michelin Guide awards last week: no road trip for you, tablehopper. Ha! So rude.
I’m fine, I turned the corner on Sunday, but am just tired and cranky. (I am definitely taking a nap after I hit “send” on this thing.) This round of ’rona was like a lousy but thankfully short-lived cold compared to that gross crud I had a few months ago. Whatever, Miss Rona, get the eff outta here, begone. One big consolation of getting summer COVID out of the way is I can now attend busy food events and packed dance floors with impunity!
Over the weekend, I pretty much lived in my bed and did some serious movie bingeing over here: it started with the Faye (as in Dunaway) documentary, which led me to rewatch Mommie Dearest, and then Barfly, which took me back to living and dive bar–hopping in Hollywood in the early ’90s (the opening and closing sequences with all the neon signs are fantastic). The nostalgia trip continued with The Big Chill (of course, William Hurt’s still-partying character in his beat-up Porsche was living in San Francisco), followed by 3,000 Years of Longing (glad I took an edible for that one), and back down the ’80s–’90s memory lane again watching The Super Models documentary on Apple TV. Fortuna was thrilled that Mom was like one big lap for a couple days.
Living so close to the Panhandle, I listened to the droning of Outside Lands all weekend, and loved being able to watch Chappell Roan blow up the Lands End stage on the livestream. But come ON, the least they could have done was feature Grace fricking Jones on Saturday’s livestream (the only reason I would have attended this year, honestly!). What a fail. Her performances are legendary, and based on all the pics and videos my friends were sending me, this one was epic! How many wardrobe changes does a woman need to do to get put on the livestream? How many feet high into the air? How much of an absolute LEGEND? OSL, give us what we want—we are SF, jeesh!
I’ve been looking forward to this Saturday August 17th’s second annual San Francisco Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival for months! On Monday, there were less than 200 GA tickets remaining for this truly delicious, carb-loaded festival in the heart of North Beach (thanks to Tony Gemignani, in collaboration with the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club Foundation). The event covers two blocks of North Beach on Stockton and Filbert Streets, running along Washington Square—it’s a wonderful, only-in-SF kind of setting. Check out our earlier piece for details about this dream festival, including the lineup of 30+ pizzerias, bagelries, and breweries. Come hungry, wear a hat, and line up early. Gate opens at 12pm. Say hi if you see me!
Since we’re on pizza for a moment (when am I not thinking or talking about it?), some of you know I made a special tablehopper 🍕 tote that paid homage to the classic and odd “Enjoy your delicious moments” pizza box (and I still have a few for sale!). I was thrilled when the tote designer Meli sent me this recent L.A. Times article about this mysterious pizza box! Fun.
In pizza we trust. Forever and ever.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Swimming to the Ferry Building Marketplace in 2025: Nopa Fish!
I’m excited to finally be able to write about this upcoming project from Nopa restaurant’s Laurence Jossel and Holly Rhodes, with Joe Conte, owner of Water2Table: Nopa Fish!
It’s opening in early 2025 in Suite 31 at the Ferry Building Marketplace, formerly San Francisco Fish Company (which has been closed since July 2020). Nopa Fish is going to be a counter-service seafood restaurant with a traditional fish market, highlighting local, sustainable, and ethically sourced fish. Everything sold in the fish market will be traceable, from the shellfish to filets to prepared foods.
You can come in and order a bowl of chowder at the counter (or a seafood dish or a gorg farm salad—Nopa is always about peak freshness and seasonality), find a seat at the communal table (another thing Nopa is known for), and pick up some local seafood to bring home. Jossel mentions some additional dishes he’s tinkering with include fish and chips, tostadas, a fish sandwich, awesome fries, crudo, and poke. I am ready for all of it!
In a joint statement, Laurence, Holly, and Joe have this to say: “We are thrilled to bring a casual seafood restaurant and long-awaited fish market back to the Ferry Building. Our mission is to connect residents and visitors alike to incredible food, sourced locally and ethically from West Coast waters and sustainable purveyors. We support small-scale fishing and fleets who unload their catch at nearby ports, including San Francisco, Monterey, and Bodega Bay. We are excited to support local fishers, farms, and friends to provide guests with exceptional service and an authentic San Francisco experience.” 🐟
Prelude Opens Next Week, Offering Contemporary Fine-Dining (with a Touch of Alabama) at the Jay
Now opening Thursday August 22nd in the Jay Hotel is Prelude, a contemporary and fine-dining American restaurant with some Southern touches. It’s part of Kash Feng’s Omakase Restaurant Group, which is behind The Third Floor (upstairs at the Jay), as well as Omakase, Okane, Niku Steakhouse, Dumpling Time, Live Sushi, and Rosemary & Pine.
Chef Celtin Hendrickson-Jones—whose background includes Niku, Commis, Verdant in Tulum, and Morimoto Napa—grew up in California, but his family’s Sunday suppers were all about dishes from his Alabama maternal grandmother and great grandmother. Southern notes show up at Prelude in dishes like a cornbread financier served with Hokkaido uni butter (cultured in-house)...
Additional team members include bar director Franco Bilbaeno (Angler SF, Niku Steakhouse)—who has an Apple Pie Old Fashioned made with a graham cracker–washed bourbon on the menu—as well as head sommelier Morgan Harris (Saison Hospitality), in collaboration with the team from Maison Healdsburg.
I always enjoy seeing another AvroKO-designed space open in San Francisco (they go deep on the details), and this project was inspired by the Presidio and its eucalyptus grove. Elements include warm eucalyptus wood; stone flooring; gold plaster on the ceiling (that moment when daylight breaks through Karl the Fog); custom lighting, stained glass, and a carpet inspired by eucalyptus seed pods and leaf structures; and custom-designed banquettes of sage/forest green leather and mohair fabric. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm. 433 Clay St. at Battery.
Coming Very Soon: Bombay Brasserie to TAJ Campton Place
Smokin’ D’s BBQ Soft Opens in the Sunset (and Their Brisket BAO-B-Q Buns Are on the Menu)
Back in July, the Chronicle reported Daniel Ramirez of the popular Smokin D’s pop-up and farmers market stand was going to open his first brick-and-mortar location in the former Yum Yum Sushi House in the Outer Sunset. Ramirez is known for his Texas-style barbecue with Mexican and Asian influences, including the ingenious “Brisky Bao” (fluffy, Chinese-style milk bread bao stuffed with their signature overnight smoked prime brisket).
Just this past Sunday, Houston native Ramirez (with his wife, Lariena), soft-opened with a limited menu: BAO-B-Q Buns ($9 each) stuffed with chopped brisket and BBQ sauce, or pulled pork with spicy Korean gochujang BBQ sauce; loaded nachos with brisket or pulled pork and housemade queso ($19); and their classic brisket and pulled pork “sammiches” on toasted brioche ($16–$18). Also on the menu: coffee from Andytown and Daybreak Vietnamese Coffee.
The next soft-opening run will be...
They’re going to be ramping up hours and adding to the offering soon. Follow @smokindsbbqsf on Instagram for updates, and they will continue to appear at their farmers market stands (Stonestown, Grand Lake). 2181 Irving St. at 23rd Ave.
Divisadero Updates: New Pizza and Wing Shops
A New Korean Dessert Café, Ananda Fuara Returns, Downtown Openings, and More
The Korean restaurant Jang (that opened in the former Le Fantastique) is now hosting a café during the day, Buoy Dessert and Coffee, featuring specialty coffee drinks with a twist (like pineapple espresso, or black sesame or a ssuk/mugwort latte), housemade syrups, and gluten-free desserts from Rice Flour (I wrote about their pop-up at Sushi Hakko a couple weeks ago).
Buoy is actually from the founder of Rice Flour, Esther Kim, who has an industrial design background. She is serving slices of her roll cakes, as well as cookies (black cocoa, ssuk), scones, cupcakes, and more—everything is made with Korean rice flour and organic ingredients, and is gluten-free. Grab a spot at the counter or a table, use the Wi-Fi, and have your next meeting here. Open Tue–Sun 7am–3pm. 22 Franklin St. at Oak.
After Ananda Fuara—one of San Francisco’s oldest vegetarian restaurants—closed after 40 years in business last year, who would have predicted they would come back serving their food out of a CloudKitchen? Their longtime regulars will be thrilled to hear their neatloaf dinner and sandwich are back, as well as their popular veggie burger, and more. You can order delivery or pick up at 60 Morris St. at Bryant, Mon–Sat 11am–8pm.
I’m always happy to hear of new businesses opening downtown, and one of the latest is Basil the Bold, which started during the first year of the pandemic (2020). Founder and Bangkok native PanPan Thiravechyan makes Thai-Californian dishes, from pork belly noodles to massaman chicken curry, and many vegan and vegetarian variations, like fried tofu larb and red curry chickpeas.
Support this small, self-funded, female-owned, first-time, brick-and-mortar business with a visit (you can preorder for takeout/pickup, or just walk in). You can order her refrigerated meals on various platforms, as well as corporate lunches, and hire her as a caterer; you’ll also see Basil the Bold at upcoming Sunset Night Markets. Open Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm. Four Embarcadero Center at Drumm (street level, across from Harborview restaurant).
tablehopper reader Sandra wrote in to tell me the former Chaat Indian below the Holiday Inn Express is now Magnin Street Cafe & Bistro. While the menu seems mostly geared toward tourists staying in nearby hotels, I do want to do a shoutout to the pancakes Suzette, croque monsieur croissant, loaded hashbrowns, and duck confit sandwich, which all sound like pretty tasty options if I was in the area looking for breakfast, brunch, or lunch. 138 Cyril Magnin St. at O’Farrell.
The Outer Sunset has a new taqueria, Taqueria Chapala, serving tacos, quesabirrias, burritos, breakfast items, platos, caldos, and more, plus a fresh salsa bar (four kinds) and free chips. (Love that.) Open daily 10am–9pm. 1501 Noriega St. at 22nd Ave.
Temporary and Permanent Closures
Quick PSA: you better go enjoy the local anchovy toast with heirloom tomato (truly, one of SF’s best bites) at The Anchovy Bar before they temporarily close on Monday September 2nd for a seismic retrofit. Co-owner Stuart Brioza tells me they are aiming to reopen by late October; I will keep you posted, of course. 1740 O’Farrell St. at Fillmore.
My media researcher, Rebecca K., informed me of a new restaurant coming to Nob Hill’s Cocotte: Blanca from Johnny Le of Thanh Tam II in the Mission; San Francisco Business Times confirms the news that the longtime French bistro (it opened in 1988 as Hyde Street Bistro)—a beloved neighborhood hangout famous for its rotisserie chicken—has permanently closed (they closed earlier in the year for a seismic retrofit). Le hopes to open Blanca in a couple months; stand by for info on the menu, concept, and more. 1521 Hyde St. at Jackson.
Dang, was sorry to read via Eater that Daily Driver has closed their Cow Hollow location that has barely been open for a year. Fortunately, their Dogpatch and Ferry Building locations remain open for you to score their hand-rolled bagels. 1977 Union St. at Buchanan.
Special Tomato Dishes for SF Tomato Week and a Hadeem Collab Dinner at Greens
It’s peak pomodoro 🍅 season! The Golden Gate Restaurant Association is excited to announce the return of SF Tomato Week (Monday August 19th–25th), when restaurants throughout San Francisco will offer special tomato-focused items on their menus. A complete list of participating restaurants (and what they’re serving) is available here, but here’s a sneak peek to get you hongry:
3rd Cousin is serving chicken-fried, soft-shell crab with heirloom tomato, basil aioli; China Live has Guangdong tomato and egg crispy dumplings with tomato black bean relish on the menu; Prospect is keeping things summery with a Peach Farm heirloom tomato salad (Tory Farms nectarines, crispy jamón, stracciatella cheese, hot honey vinaigrette); and Gott’s Roadside is offering a Maine lobster BLT with heirloom tomatoes, Little Gems, and crispy bacon, served on a butter-toasted sesame brioche bun.
On Thursday August 22nd, chef Katie Reicher of Greens will welcome chef Spencer Horovitz of Hadeem for the latest installment of their Guest Chef Series. Get a peek of the menu in this Instagram post, and book your table for the four-course, vegetarian, California-Jewish dinner here.
Culinary Collab Ofrendas to Serve Second Edition Next Week
by Savannah Leone Bundy
On Thursday August 22nd, chefs Jacob Croom (My Friend Fernando) and Emmanuel Galvan (Bolita Masa) will be hosting the second installment of their cultural culinary experience Ofrendas at The Midway SF. This “walk and eat” event, bringing together five celebrated chefs of Latinx/Chicano heritage, is an ode to gastronomy and cultural expression.
Along with Croom and Galvan, chefs Marciela Vega, B Loza, and Andrea Aliseda will each offer a signature antojito for guests to consume while enjoying the opportunity to engage with the chefs in conversation. There will be vegan and vegetarian options, and beverages available for purchase, while all-woman vinyl group B-Side Brujas spins cumbias throughout the evening.
Tickets are $75/person and available here. Thursday August 22nd. 5pm–8pm. 900 Marin St. at Michigan.
the sponsor
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the socialite
This Sunday: a Drag Brunch Fundraiser for Rainbow Railroad
This Sunday August 18th, DACHA Kitchen & Bar is hosting a special drag brunch fundraiser in support of Rainbow Railroad, a nonprofit dedicated to assisting LGBTQIA+ individuals in escaping persecution in unsafe countries. The one-and-only Juanita More! is the guest DJ, plus there will be performances by drag stars Mary Vice and Mojo Carter.
The $69 ticket includes a delectable brunch dish inspired by Eastern European flavors, a signature cocktail (thanks to Olga Vodka and Jack Daniels for supporting this event), and a prime seat for the show. A portion of each ticket will be donated directly to Rainbow Railroad. 12pm–3pm. Hope to see you there! Reservations: 415-932-6672 or on OpenTable. 1085 Sutter St. at Larkin.
the lush
