what’s cookin’
Hello, friends. Did you miss me last week? Sorry for disappearing on you, but I’m just crawling out of my sick crypt (and this week was a holiday week). I thought I only had a stupid cold a couple weeks ago, but surprise, it ended up morphing into bronchitis, so wrong and nasty. I just finished my antibiotics, and at least I can finally go a few hours without hacking like an 80-year-old lifetime smoker of Marlboro Reds. (Fortuna has been so over the cough, you should see the withering looks she has been shooting me.)
I can’t wait to finally go for a walk that is longer than three blocks—although I have been taking Fortuna out for short walks in the neighborhood in her new pet stroller and let’s just say I have unlocked another level of Cat Mom and we are both living for it. After three years of being cooped up in my studio apartment, she has been needing more stimulation, and our building’s sad back patio with nothing but concrete and shade wasn’t cutting it. Next stroller stop: Alamo Square. There will be pictures.
Tuna isn’t the only one who has been feeling cooped up—I was basically on the soup plan at home for two weeks, but I was able to do some serious spring cleaning of my freezer stash o’ soups. It has been great to slowly head back out and enjoy some real food and an adult beverage or two. On Sunday, I headed out for my maiden voyage among the living to La Connessa for their new brunch, check it out in this week’s chatterbox! I met up with a friend on Memorial Day to try a special collab pizza with Mister Jiu’s at Flour + Water Pizzeria, read all about it (and their new lunch special) below.
This week’s column has some catch-up news for you, and I was hoping to include a couple bigger pieces that I have been working on (including the Park Tavern news), but those will need to come later. I couldn’t talk for more than five minutes without going into a coughing attack, so let’s just say interviews have not been happening the past week. I’m frustrated that I continue to be so tired—what was supposed to be a 30-minute refresher nap yesterday turned into two hours. Zzzzzz. I’m still pretty wiped out. Thanks for bearing with me.
Since I was pretty useless last week, I was watching a ton of movies and new series while loopy on Codeine in bed. I finally added Apple TV+ to my home lineup, and thanks to my friend for recommending Drops of God to me, what an engrossing and stylish series! It’s a deep dive into the world of wine (all I wanted was a glass while watching it, torture!) and sensory input and family and inheritance and memory and love, of course. It primarily takes place in France and Tokyo and is such a pleasure to watch—the storyline takes many swirls in the glass. Thrilled there will be a second season. Don’t miss it.
Do you know the 2024 San Francisco Documentary Festival kicks off today (May 30th) at the Roxie? You can screen documentaries in person or order them online and watch them at home. I can’t wait for the Michael Jang doc, Who Is Michael Jang?, which keeps selling out and adding showings!
More from me soon.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Bettola Opens Friday in the Inner Richmond, Bringing an Affordable Italian Tavola Calda to the Neighborhood
After breaking the story about Bettola back in February—the tavola calda, osteria, and rosticceria coming to the Inner Richmond from owner Gianluca Legrottaglie and director of operations Jacopo Rosito (both of 54 Mint and multiple Montesacro locations), and business partner Daniele Carsano (Montesacro Walnut Creek)—it was so fun to swing by a couple weeks ago and see how close it was to opening! How close? Bettola is opening this Friday May 31st!
When I walked in, I was thrilled to see chef Bruce Binn (Spork, Thermidor) in the kitchen—the team met back when Binn had Thermidor on Mint Plaza, and he is now the executive chef at Bettola. It’s going to be the perfect addition to the neighborhood, and I’m admittedly jealous of folks who will be able to just amble over for easy and affordable dinners of timballo (oven-baked rigatoni, beef ragù, mozzarella, and béchamel, or baked shell pasta with spinach and ricotta; $15), braciole and polpette (beef roulade, prosciutto di Parma, pecorino, and nonna’s meatballs, slow-simmered in San Marzano sugo; $15), and rotisserie Mary’s chicken (half $15/whole $27; with your choice of five sauces) or porchetta ($23), along with mandatory twice-cooked potatoes or vegetables ($9). They’ll have a rotating “piatto del giorno”/daily special (like “giovedì/gnocchi” like they do in Italy) as well.
You can swing by for a variety of bites (mostly $12–$16) and a glass of wine, like fritto misto of vegetables, Fontina-filled potato croquettes, pasta e fagioli (ditalini and beans), or one of my favorites from the tavola calda when I lived in Venice: rice salad, made here with giardiniera, hardboiled eggs, and aioli. You can eventually order the piattone (“big plate”), with a chef’s selection for two for $75.
In my previous piece, I mentioned there will also be pizza alla pala (on a pizza peel) coming out of the pizza oven, served by the piece for $4—there will be a bianca or rossa pizza (like how they do it if you’ve ever been to Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome), with the option to have mozzarella or mortadella on top for $2.
Sweet tooth? There’s babà napoletana ($10), chocolate budino ($7), and a seasonal fruit tart with housemade gelato for $9. (These prices feel like 2015 and I am here for it.) Take a look at the opening menu here. You can enjoy some passito or vin santo, and there’s an espresso machine, too. When they start lunch service, there will also be panini.
There’s a front enclosed patio area, outfitted with heaters and vintage brocade patterned wallpaper that Legrottaglie grew up with in Rome and tracked down for Bettola. There are large vintage cabinets and a bright green buffet, as well as terrazzo floors, and in the main dining room, there’s a communal table designed for socializing, and beautiful cabinets and custom woodwork by Leonardo Lasagni.
On the shelves of the floor-to-ceiling cabinets is where you’ll find a retail selection of necessities for home (like an alimentari), with legumes, herbs, dried pasta, and well-sourced anchovies and tuna. They have some unique products from Bresca (don’t miss their Sardinian honey and jams) and gorg artisanal bread baskets made by Sorris. There’s also a selection of cookbooks, Italian art, and architecture books assembled by neighbor Green Apple Books. Behind the main counter, you can have a glass bottle filled to order with olive oil and vinegars (red, white, balsamic), or pick up three kinds of Sicilian salt in bulk (fino, grosso, fiore di sale) and wild fennel seeds. There are also plenty of wines (some in fiasco!) and vermouths you can bring home.
I love the carved wood figure of St. Francis looking over the room, and they will be hosting art pieces during the weekly art walk organized by The Drawing Room gallery studio. Hours to start are Tue–Sat 4pm–9pm, and in July, lunch will begin at 11am. 343 Clement St. at 5th Ave.
Expansions Around the City: Pasta Supply Co.’s Mission Location Opens for Retail, Merchant Roots Has a New Home, Plus Outta Sight, and Wise Sons
Exciting news, gang. Pasta Supply Co. is soft-opening their new Mission location for retail sales only, starting Saturday June 1st, from 10am–6pm [updated!]. Since they have that new and expansive kitchen to work out of and host their production, you’ll see some new items, like rustic ciabatta and focaccia they’re baking in-house, thanks to Brandon Wells (previously at Empire Pizza, and the man knows his way around dough); a grains and greens ragù with green farro, green lentils, and friarelli greens that Anthony Strong says, “will rock your vegan world”; and on the decidedly non-vegan side, there are pork belly “buttons” (LOL) to go with their epic double-cultured pink peppercorn butter. They have been tweaking and reworking existing retail sale recipes since they have room to do more advanced prep and cooking—like the lamb ragù, which Strong says is even better now. Impossible!
Stand by for more from me about upcoming dine-in details (the menu will be different from Clement Street, with entrée dishes like chicken thigh piccata, and spaghetti and meatballs), cooking classes (they brought on chef Marc Baltes, previously San Francisco Cooking School, as well as Zuni Cafe and Boot and Shoe Service), catering, and extended hours, soon! 3233 22nd St. at Valencia.
Due to open in mid-August in SoMa is Merchant Roots’ new space, previously the expanded version of City Beer Store (2018–2022), and originally Charles Phan’s Coachman restaurant (2014–2015). Chef-owner Ryan Shelton is trading his 900-square-foot, fine-dining restaurant on Fillmore (since 2018) for this 4,500 square-foot space, which will allow for much more room to create an innovative dining experience, but he’s still going to limit his themed and experiential dinners to just 12 diners per seating. “The purpose of the move is not about packing the place, it’s about expanding the creative possibilities and diving even deeper into menu themes, essentially enabling us to create a brand-new restaurant four times a year, which is an insane thing to accomplish,” Shelton says.
Designer Jon de la Cruz of DLC-ID (Che Fico) is going to be creating a clean canvas for Merchant Roots’ quarterly changing menus, using a palette of blue, white, and denim for the space, and walls will feature curated projections designed around each theme. The enclosed, gated courtyard will also be utilized as a setting. In 2025, look for low-proof and n/a cocktails at the live-edge wood bar from sommelier/cook Christine Hirtzel, plus a menu of entirely plant-based bar snacks.
Shelton’s team not only has a large, open kitchen to work in now, but there’s also an in-house industrial space: The Workshop, where Shelton can create materials for his menu themes. Past themes have included Elements, Thackeray’s Victorian novel Vanity Fair, or a foraging journey: Into the Forest. The upcoming theme in the new space, Color Theory, will be an 11-course menu that explores the meaning and nuances of pink, white, green, orange, blue, yellow, brown, red, violet, and black. It starts August 14th (through November 10th), reserve here. 1148 Mission St. at 7th St.
I was so happy to see the Instagram post from Outta Sight Pizza announcing that they’re opening a second pizza shop in Chinatown. The first thing I thought of was their char siu pizza (with miso honey glaze, hoisin, scallion, and shallots), and for the Lunar New Year, they dropped a pork belly pocha pie, so there’s no shortage of creativity over there, ever (both with their pizza and their subs). Plus, they do the classics right, so there will be a slice or sub for everyone. Owners Eric Ehler and Peter Dorrance are hoping to open by fall, stand by for more. 643 Clay St. at Kearny.
Another Instagram announcement: Wise Sons Deli will be opening a location at the JCCSF this September. I reached out to owner Evan Bloom for details, but didn’t hear back in time. Stay tuned.
Quick News Updates, from Reopenings to Chef Moves
Whoops, last month, I saw that the classic Anchor Oyster Bar in the Castro (since 1977!) reopened after their soft-story retrofit and renovation, but completely forgot to write about it! Better late than never. It’s time for their Caesar with Dungeness crab and garlic butter croutons, shrimp cocktail, and cioppino! Open Thu–Mon 2pm–8pm. 579 Castro St. at 19th St.
Wow, it’s the end of an era: after founding Sightglass Coffee in 2009, brothers Justin and Jerad Morrison have stepped down, and “Sharon Healy, a national account executive at Starbucks for nearly a decade, is the new CEO.” The brothers reportedly have something new in the works. [via SFGATE]
After closing Estiatorio Ornos, chef Michael Mina (with Brent Bolthouse) have brought chef Daniela Vergara to The Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon, where she has debuted a new menu, along with a few Estiatorio Ornos—influenced presentations, including chilled Maine lobster “ceviche” with Brokaw avocado, Egyptian mango, and blistered peppers ($39), and salt-baked sea bream with shaved zucchini, oregano, and lemon vinaigrette ($59). She’s also updating the brunch menu and running a special Sunday Supper menu that rotates monthly. 5 Main St., Tiburon.
Only a Couple Days Left to Get the Mister Jiu’s Pizza at Flour + Water Pizzeria
In honor of AAPI Month, chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow of Flour + Water Pizzeria collaborated with chef Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s on this brilliant new pizza, featuring thick slices of lap cheong pork sausage (from Wycen Foods in Chinatown, my favorite), tangy wood ear mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, and ginger-scallion oil that melts into the pie and brings it all together—there are also lightly pickled scallions that give it some lift, and fresh scallions sprinkled on top. The crust is so light and crispy, you’ll love this pie fresh out of the oven (it’s for dine-in only).
It’s $26, and $5 from each pie sold will benefit Gum Moon Women’s Residence, an organization in Chinatown that helps immigrant women and families transition safely into SF. You can enjoy this special pizza through Friday May 31st, the last day of AAPI month! Go get it. (And don’t miss their new Calabrian chicken wings while you’re at it, so good alongside their punchy Caesar salad with escarole.) 532 Columbus Ave. at Union.
One more thing to note: Flour + Water Pizzeria has launched a new, dine-in lunch special:
Brunchin’ and High Tea
Over the long weekend, I went to check out the new brunch at the chic, Cal-Italian bistro La Connessa in Potrero Hill. It’s just as lovely in there in the daytime, and the brunch menu has everything you need, starting with a variety of four fizzes they make on their Vevor automated milk tea shaker (of course, there’s a classic Ramos Gin Fizz, but they have also turned the Last Word into a fizz). The Garibaldi is for my fellow Campari lovers, and my friend deemed their piquant Harry’s Bloody Mary his new favorite (it features the original recipe, created in Harry’s Bar Paris, served in a coupe with a clever tricolor of garnish). Don’t forget, their brilliant Tomatini (which has become one of my top SF cocktails) is on their main cocktail menu and our table loved it with our savory dishes.
You’re probably hungry, so pop some espresso bomboloni ($11 for three) in your mouth while you decide what to order. If the Delta asparagus fritto ($18) is still on the menu, do it—these lemony spears were fried with a deft hand, served with a green garlic aioli I want in my fridge, always. Spring fever continued with their Bianca pizza (fior di latte, green garlic, fava greens, Castelvetrano olives, lemon zest; $26), which benefits from a drizzle of chile oil to perk it up.
My favorite was the eggs Benedict ($22), because here’s the kicker: you get to enjoy the trademark Spruce housemade English muffin in it! That buttery muffin is too damn good. Perfectly poached eggs, ribbons of prosciutto, and hollandaise round out the Benedict state of heaven. There are also some pasta options, like their spaghettino al limone ($28), a bewitchingly simple but perfect emulsion of butter, lemon, black pepper, and grana padano.
Considering how expensive it is to eat out in a basic diner or brunch joint these days (my grotty neighborhood café serves omelets with ingredients from Sysco for $18.50), you’re getting quite the upgrade with this quality, seasonal, and fairly priced experience, a welcome new brunch on our local scene. Sat–Sun 10am–2pm. 1695 Mariposa St. at Carolina.
I’m loving the news that Bodega SF is now serving brunch, because we need dishes like chao suon (rice porridge, mussels, pork spareribs, Chinese doughnut), bo ne (house-marinated filet, two eggs, pâté, roasted tomatoes, baguette), and Bodega shakshuka (Dungeness crab, two eggs, red peppers, baguette) in our weekend mix. Brunch cocktails include the Veggie Tales (Helix vodka, tomato cucumber water, Vietnamese herbs, vegan nuoc mam, house sriracha). Available Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. 138 Mason St. at Ellis.
I briefly mentioned Fisch & Flore is now serving lunch and brunch, and wanted to be sure you know you can book a reservation for a spot on the patio or in the dining room (or try walking in). I can’t wait to try The Perfect Egg: a soft-boiled egg that is breaded in panko and fried, served with yuzu sabayon sauce, potato terrine, and chives, and topped with Tsar Nicoulai white sturgeon caviar. Wine director Irem Sahin has the perfect glass of bubbles to pair with it (along with a platter of oysters)! Lunch Wed–Fri 11am–2:30pm, and brunch Sat–Sun from 11am–2:30pm. 2298 Market St. at Noe.
After launching brunch for Mother’s Day, Che Fico is now hosting brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2pm. Check out the latest menu here. 838 Divisadero St. at McAllister.
Closures Around Town (Both Temporary and Permanent)
Birdbox in SoMa (280A 2nd Street) has temporarily closed, which will make their fried chicken sandwich lovers unhappy. But, the Birdsong team will be reopening Birdbox soon in a new location in SF, stand by. In the meantime, New Yorkers will be pleased to know Birdbox is flying to New York and opening a location this Friday May 31st. Follow @birdboxsf for updates on Claude the claw’s latest perch.
Just after I sent out my last newsletter, I found out Presidio Social Club closed after Mother’s Day service (on May 12th). I remember when owner Ray Tang opened the Presidio restaurant in 2006 (the same year I launched tablehopper), and it was quite a hotspot, full of star sightings and regulars, and known for its stellar cocktails (bar manager Tim Stookey was behind the stick there for seven years, before moving on in 2014 to open Stookey’s Club Moderne). It had a good run (18 years!), and made it through the pandemic, but as Tang told the Chronicle, “Running a business of this size is no longer tenable,” with high operating costs and staffing issues. 563 Ruger St.
the socialite
This Saturday: Block Party and Seafood Boil with Gumbo Social in Bayview
This weekend, on Saturday June 1st, chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social is celebrating the restaurant’s first anniversary in business at their Bayview location with a block party! From 1pm–8pm, there will be live music (including The Gumbo Band second line marching band with a parade down 3rd), special guests, Bayview food vendors, a DJ, and more. RSVP for free here and pre-purchase tasting tickets!
Mr. Gumbo will be bringing out the boiler and preparing his famous seafood boil featuring shrimp, baby potatoes, corn, and smoked sausage, served with Old Bay, Cajun seasoning, and butter. Vendors include Papa Rudy's BBQ, Sukulenta SF, Yvonne’s Southern Sweets, Ayuba Wines, Divine Desserts, and SF Eat’n Vegan.
Gumbo Social will be open with a limited menu (I would definitely bring home the roasted duck, red beans, and rice to enjoy later!). 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.
Celebrate 40 Years of Tsar Nicoulai Caviar at Their National Caviar Day Soirée!
Calling all sustainable caviar lovers! National Caviar Day is July 18th, and in honor of this holiday and to celebrate Tsar Nicoulai Caviar’s 40 anniversary (!), they’re throwing a soirée on Saturday July 20th from 4:30pm–7pm in the Grand Hall of the historic San Francisco Ferry Building for a festive evening of delectable, caviar-filled delights.
You’ll be treated to bites from Aphotic Restaurant, Osito SF, chef Tu David Phu, Daily Driver, Hog Island Oyster, Honey+Brie, and MAC BBQ, along with California wines from Domaine Carneros, Nomadica, St. Supery, J Wine, and Lichen Estate. Enjoy the iconic caviar-stuffed olive martini by Trevin Hutchins at Aphotic while listening to music from DJ Jasmin, The Dahlias, and violinist Shaina Evoniuk.
From now until June 18th, enjoy a 20 percent early-bird discount on tickets with code FeedMeCaviar at check-out. A portion of ticket proceeds will benefit UC Davis Aquaculture, whose mission is to provide science-based support for California's aquaculture farms, and without which, Northern California would not be the caviar capital of the United States that it is today. See you there!
the starlet
Happy to see President Bill Clinton is in on the local’s secret that Sam’s Grill is where you go for true SF seafood and soul. He dined at Sam’s on May 22nd (not his first time!) and stayed for three hours with a group of friends. Owner Peter Quartaroli was told that the last thing he said before leaving the City was: “I love going to that Sam’s place! I always have fun there.” You can see “Da Mayor” Willie Brown in the photo (of course, he has his unofficial office at Sam’s).
Chef and philanthropist José Andrés was in town for an appearance at BottleRock Napa, and a tablehopper friend spotted him buying a pound of morels, two truffles, and some porcini at Far West Fungi in the Ferry Building Marketplace last Tuesday May 21st.
