what’s cookin’
Hello, friends. It has been a week since our hope for the future of democracy got gut-punched, so please promise me you have been trying to take good care of yourselves. I decided I needed to elevate my joy in the face of rage and dread, so I dialed down my news input and flipped the switch for more queer art, music, and community. Thursday evening, I stopped my social media scrolling and walked over to my friend YUCKY’s Dirt Rich show opening at Rosebud Gallery in the Tenderloin (on display until November 25th). The swirl of queer community and fashion and music and performance art and photography and hugs provided the medicine we all needed.
On Friday, I finally treated my banged-up, post-move body to a 90-minute Thai massage at Suchada Thai Massage—I highly recommend you do the same. Schedule time before or after your massage (or if you’re me, both) in their dry sauna (only at their Design District location). Get a 15 percent discount if you pay cash during the week, and be sure to tell them I sent you, thanks. (I’m also a big fan of their de-stress neck and shoulder massage.) You deserve it!
The massage got me into good shape for a weekend of dancing. Saturday, I went to see Róisín Murphy at the Warfield (yes, #itscomplicated, especially when we really need to protect our trans family now more than ever), but I will say her performance was uplifting, strong, cinematic, and her badass band absolutely brought IT. Felt good to shake it off on the sweaty dance floor with so many kind and queer friends, new and old.
Sunday was recovery on the patio at Casements Bar for Bangers and Bangers, with a full English breakfast from chef George Dingle (thank you doc, that was a magical plate—I was healed!) and beats from CarrieOnDisco and Mouthfeel. What a blast. Let’s hear it for daytime disco parties with the cutest crew everrrr. The mixed crowd and friendly vibes at Casements always remind me of the SF when I first moved here 30 years ago.
Music is what usually helps me push through anything: tough times, moving, and this rotten deadline every week. Big shout-out to my sister Erica’s DJ Wrecka mixes on Soundcloud that powered me through writing this column over the past few days. It’s so hard to focus when the world is crashing around you, but some house beats and funky bass lines and nu-disco grooves can help lift you up in many ways. Go sissy!
I also checked out on the couch this past week with a fascinating documentary about the many eras of the Sunset Strip (starting with its origins in the 1920s), followed by a full descent into Sunset Boulevard (available on Kanopy)—what a magnificent piece of filmmaking. I hadn’t watched it in years, and this twisted tale of Hollywood is as epic as ever. Oh, and Carol Doda Topless at the Condor is available to watch, don’t miss this powerful story of sexual liberation and resistance! Queen!
I want to say thanks to those of you who have tagged me or sent me pics of your SF Restaurant Week meals. I love to see you out on the town! It runs through November 17th, so you have this whole week to get out there and treat yourself to a fab brunch, lunch, or dinner deal at over 150 restaurants! (I keep posting updates in my Instagram Stories—as well as where to get Thanksgiving pies, and true confession, I am ready to have one all to myself right now.)
Alrighty pals, stay strong, keep your head up, heart open, check in with friends, be with people, take a break from the horrific news, and give yourself time and space to do things that make you happy.
With so much love and support,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Café Sebastian Opens at Transamerica Pyramid Center This Thursday
The first of three new restaurant concepts opening at Transamerica Pyramid Center from chef Bradley Kilgore, Café Sebastian, is opening this Thursday November 14th. Transamerica Pyramid Center reopened in September following a $1 billion dollar investment by luxury real estate development and investment firm SHVO and Deutsche Finance. Architect Lord Norman Foster and his global design firm Foster + Partners updated the iconic Transamerica Pyramid and two adjacent buildings at Two and Three Transamerica (where Cafe Sebastian is opening).
Kilgore met Michael Shvo several years ago in Miami, and was approached with the opportunity to relocate to San Francisco for this project. Kilgore is launching a trio of concepts for Transamerica Redwood Park: Café Sebastian is named after Kilgore’s son, and will open at Three Transamerica; MadLab Gelato & Kakigori—an extension of a concept founded by Kilgore’s wife Soraya in Miami, is opening in coming weeks; and ama by Bradley Kilgore, a Japanese-Itameshi restaurant (which is Japanese for “Italian food”), cocktail, and Hi-Fi lounge will be joining the lineup; Kilgore will also be doing catering for building tenants.
Café Sebastian is a neighborhood bistro designed to have a versatile format, serving breakfast, an all-day menu, and a few dishes that are only available during dinner. So whether you’re grabbing breakfast on the way to work, or a bite after, the seasonal and classic menu will meet you where you are.
Breakfast sounds fantastic, with Sebastian’s Scramble (broccoli, aged white cheddar, tomato concasse, milk bread toast; $12; add smoked trout: $6); the CS Breakfast Sandwich (house breakfast sausage, Calabrian chile-Dijon aioli, Gruyère, watercress; $9), potato rösti (soured cream, pear-rosemary marmalade, chive; $16), and a croque monsieur waffle (Mornay, prosciutto cotto; $17).
A standout on the menu will be the selection of house-baked goods, which includes seasonal babka (cocoa-walnut praline, and look for savory versions as well, with Comté and prosciutto cotto, or Parmesan and herb), a warm cinnamon roll, a cheddar frico scone with scallion, an everything croissant with herbed Boursin dip, cookies, and all the baguettes and sandwich bread are baked in-house. Kilgore’s wife Soraya is a talented baker and plays a big part in the pastry program.
Speaking of sandwiches, the all-day menu includes BLT Toast (harissa-tomato compote, peppercorn, Dijon, pea tendril; $18), organic egg salad sandwich (Japanese mayo, cornichon, shallot, milk bread; $16), mortadella (cherry-apricot mostarda, pistachio pistou, sourdough baguette; $17), and a ribeye French dip (horseradish-Boursin, peperonata, sun-dried oregano, hot jus; $26).
You can also enjoy snacky items like...
Beverages include Mr. Espresso coffee and espresso drinks, organic tea, and cold pressed juices like orange-tangerine-turmeric hibiscus, or ruby red-ginger-blood orange-rhubarb in the mornings. Simple and classic cocktails will also be served, from a traditional gin Martini to a Manhattan, as well as an SF classic pisco punch, to a Café Sebastian bloody Mary with bacon salt (all just $12, love to see it). Domestic and international wines by the glass will start at $12, with a number of half-bottles on offer as well, and $50 bottles.
In order to facilitate optimal dining flow and timing for guests, there will be a QR ordering system, so you can order, linger, and close out at your own pace. There is also a case with hot and cold grab-and-go items, plus the option to preorder for pick-up.
The light-filled space is surrounded by windows, with high ceilings, and a sleek look by Kevin Klein Design, with “tubular tufted leather banquettes, round edged walnut tabletops, and carefully curated landscaping elements are contrasted elegantly with hard-combed plaster walls, geometrically oriented French Vanilla marble tiles, and vertically stacked beveled mirror.” Hours are Mon–Fri 8am–8pm, Sat 9am–8pm, and Sun 9am–6pm. Reserve on OpenTable. Three Transamerica in the Transamerica Redwood Park, 545 Sansome St.
Morella, a Taste of Italian-Argentine Cuisine, Comes to the Marina
The former Dorian on Chestnut Street in the Marina is now home to Morella, an Argentine-Italian restaurant that just opened this past weekend from Proof Positive Partners (Wilder, Westwood). The menu from executive chef and now co-owner Jesus Dominguez (previously a sous chef for 10 years at Taj Campton Place) includes empanadas, a clever-sounding dirty Martini dip (blue cheese, mascarpone cheese, gin, and olive brine served with red peppers, stuffed olives, and pita chips), hand-sliced jamón Ibérico de bellota (which you can add to all pastas and asados—it’s the new caviar bump!), some salads and pasta dishes (including midnight pasta: spaghetti, braised beef, Parmesan cheese, and chile flakes), plus chicken Milanesa (fried Mary’s chicken breast, smoked ham, mozzarella, marinara sauce, fried shallot)—and classic pork Milanesa will be coming soon as a Sunday special.
There’s an asados à la carte menu with items cooked on the wood-fired grill, like Argentine-style sausages (duck-apple-brandy, duck-orange, pheasant-bacon, pheasant-Cognac, wild boar garlic Marsala, and rabbit white wine; $8 each) and Argentine picanha steak (14 oz. top sirloin steak with herb butter; $38). There’s also a lamb burger with cucumbers, roasted peppers, grilled onions, arugula, whole grain mustard, sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, and roasted garlic mint yogurt, served with fries ($27), only available in the bar/lounge area.
The cocktail list includes a “Spritzy” section, “Sassy” sour drinks, “Classy” spirit-driven, classic cocktails, including a twist on the 50-50 Martini: the Summer Martini, with gin, fino sherry, Cocchi Americano, and Cointreau ($16), plus refreshing “Messy” drinks, named in homage to the legendary Argentine soccer star Lionel Messi. You can expect a large by-the-glass list of Argentine and Italian wines, as well as Napa and Sonoma selections.
The bar, lounge, and dining room were updated with bold patterns and vibrant colors, with tufted dining room chairs, ornate crystal chandeliers, palm and olive tree accents, and a lush, textured look. The restaurant and bar are open Tue–Sun at 4pm until late, with food service beginning at 4:30pm. They plan on introducing brunch Fri–Sun in early January 2025. 2001 Chestnut St. at Fillmore.
Cassava in North Beach Is Closing After 12 Years (and Two Locations)
I was so sorry to hear the news that after almost 13 years of business, owners Yuka Ioroi and chef Kristoffer Toliao have made the difficult decision to close their North Beach restaurant, Cassava, on Sunday November 17th. They have made so many adjustments, pivots, moves, and commitments to carefully running their business equitably, sustainably, and inclusively, so it’s tough to see, but at least they can rest assured knowing they really tried everything in this challenging restaurant business climate.
Of course, the duo have their next steps already mapped out for themselves and their team. Chef Kris will be working as a sous chef at Atelier Crenn (he first worked for chef Dominque Crenn while at Luce at the InterContinental Hotel). In early 2025, they will be opening a café kiosk in Jackson Square, serving salads, soups, and open-faced sandwiches to go, utilizing 25 percent of their current team. The other 75 percent will be working at the soon-to-reopen North Beach Restaurant from Francesco Covucci and Peter Fazio, and Ioroi and Toliao will be consulting on the menu, as well as the group and private dining program. Best wishes and much respect to the duo for how thoughtfully they have conducted their business in these changing times. 401 Columbus Ave.
Expansions and New Concepts Coming to Mission Rock and Thrive City
Projects keep bubbling up in Mission Bay at the Mission Rock development (from the San Francisco Giants and Tishman Speyer) and nearby Thrive City at Chase Center. Joining locations of Arsicault Bakery, Quik Dog, and Ike’s Love & Sandwiches at Mission Rock will be Flour + Water Pizza Shop in early 2025. It will be the first standalone location of the Pizza Shop from co-chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow, opening in an 1,800-square-foot, street-level space at the newly completed commercial building at 1090 Dr. Maya Angelou Lane. They’ll be serving their California style pizza (with dough coming from the flagship in North Beach), antipasti (including their Calabrian chicken wings), and salads, as well as wine, beer, and non-alcoholic options.
Opening today (Tuesday November 12th) at Thrive City at the Chase Center is Kayah by Burma Love, offering street foods, snacks, and noodle dishes from Burma (modern-day Myanmar) and its Southeast Asian neighbors (China, Thailand, Laos, India, and Bangladesh). The project is from Burma Food Group founder Desmond Tan (of Burma Superstar, who with co-owner Jocelyn Lee paid workers a $1.3M class-action settlement for alleged wage theft back in 2020).
The menu from culinary director Jarvis Yuan offers an array of skewers prepared over a binchotan charcoal grill (American wagyu marinated in Burmese curry; Jidori chicken lacquered with a fish sauce and caramel glaze; baby trumpets with fermented tea leaves), raw bar items, hot snacks (Tan’s chicken lollies with fiery mango sauce), salads, and noodle dishes (like mohinga), along with larger plates—like Yangon grilled branzino, where lemongrass-infused fish is paired with chimichurri, vermicelli noodles, and gem lettuce cups—and dishes for two presented in traditional Burmese tiffins, with roti, curries, and stir-fries.
A creative cocktail program from beverage director Humberto Galeano will offer beverages inspired by the diversity of tea, spices, herbs, and fruits found across the region, including tamarind, hibiscus, pandan, and lychee. A curated selection of wine and beer on tap will also be available. The 98-seat space was designed by Jon de la Cruz (DLC-ID), with celadon tiles, plush leather and linen velvet booths, rattan, and an outdoor lounge and dining patio. Open daily 11am–10pm. 151 Warriors Way, Suite 106.
Coming in early 2025 will be Splash at Thrive City, a 30,000-square-foot sports bar that will offer fans a state-of-the-art, sports-viewing experience. The two-story space will feature four bars, an upscale food program, over 75 televisions (including an 840-square-foot curved LED wall), and multiple indoor and outdoor areas (including golf swing suites, pop-a-shot, pool, shuffleboard, and foosball, plus pet-friendly patios, an outdoor bar, and a large screen television). Dude. It will be operated by Sidecar Hospitality (Andrew Chun and Jan Wiginton), and the cocktail program will be from Kevin Diedrich (Pacific Cocktail Haven, Kona’s), plus 16 beer taps, and natural and biodynamic wines, with an emphasis on California producers.
Current Thrive City retailers include the new Che Fico Pizzeria, Cupcakin’ Bake Shop, Dumpling Time, Gott’s Roadside, Harmonic Brewing, Miller & Lux, GluGlu, and Philz Coffee; new retailers opening in coming months are Fikscue Craft BBQ (so excited for that one) and Señor Sisig.
New Neighborhood Joints
Go on, Dario Barbone! The owner of Alimentari Aurora on Potrero already got Studio Aurora open on Valencia this past weekend after unexpectedly needing to relocate from Salesforce Tower (you can help with his GoFundMe to cover relocation costs here).
I can’t wait to come by for one of his top-notch panini: There’s the DDD (mortadella, vadouvan aioli, pistachio/mint pesto, pickled red onions, jalapeños, shaved fennel, arugula, sharp cheddar), SAVI (Persian cucumbers, curried chickpeas, Mama Teav's hot garlic, pickled carrots, jalapeños, coriander salsa verde, arugula, cream cheese, and chives), TUNA (tuna confit, green onions, celery, light aioli, vadouvan, capers, toasted sesame oil, red onion, Persian cucumbers, mustard greens, gruyere), and MARIO (fennel salame, muffaletta relish, pickled Basque peppers, garlic confit, artichokes, pickled onions, arugula, provolone), all on kamut baguette from Midwife and the Baker, $15.
There’s also grilled cheese ($8), a Caesar salad ($12), and some choice beats (free)! Hours will expand with evening service upon transferring the beer and wine license. Hours for now are Tue–Sun 11am–5pm. 302 Valencia St. at 14th St.
There’s a new Korean rice bowl shop in the Financial District, Simmer & Steamer SF, which just opened their first location in the U.S. (it has more than 200 stores in Korea). Bowls are less than $10 (yup, you read that correctly), including kimchi fried rice, pork belly curry, and galbi beef rice noodle. You self-order at kiosks or online. There are a few tables, but it’s mostly designed for takeout. Open daily 10:30am–8pm. 222 Battery St. at California.
Yemen Kitchen on Jones opened a new location, Yemeni Kabab & Mediterranean, in the former Dispensa location in the Tenderloin (if you’re catching a performance at the Golden Gate Theatre, here’s a new pre-show dinner spot). The menu includes appetizers and salads, pita wraps, and lamb, chicken, and kabab dishes, from slow-cooked chicken in Yemeni spices to roasted lamb haneeth. Open Mon–Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 10am–8pm. 39 Taylor St. at Turk.
This Saturday at Merkado: Stories From Home Volume 6, and the Menu Is Fire
by Savannah Leone Bundy
This Saturday November 16th, Merkado will present the sixth installation of their Stories From Home pop-up series, featuring chef Toby Shimizu of PacificSmoke. The four course dinner—titled Flavors of San Francisco—is a celebration of chef Shimizu and Merkado owner-operator Fabien Santos’s experiences living in the Bay Area. Drawing inspiration from Shimizu’s Guamanian background, Santos’s Filipino roots, and the diverse cultures and cuisines of the City, Flavors of San Francisco will provide a wide array of tastes and culinary crossovers.
Each dish on the prix-fixe menu ($75/person) will be plated individually (though sharing is encouraged), with the option to order à la carte, depending on availability. The first course will feature an assortment of bites that includes Shimizu Mix (smoked miso butter, heirloom popcorn, honeycomb, Chex mix, wasabi peas, furikake), Dat Cheese Tho (baked Skyhill Farms jalapeño goat chèvre, roasted cherry tomatoes, confit garlic, market vegetables, crostini), and Dem Wangs (crispy chicken wings, chile-garlic BBQ sauce, chile fresno).
The second and third courses will offer a selection of appetizers, such as Nacho Average Bite (ahi tuna poke, macadamia nuts, shichimi, shaved red onion, denanche aioli, jalapeño emulsion, sesame seeds) and Dis Sopa (chicken wonton, chile brodo, salsa macha), and entrées like The Sunset (grilled king trumpet and maitake mushrooms, charred baby bok choy, soy nage), The Marina Safeway (beer-braised short ribs, daikon, cipolline onions, crispy shallots, garlic), and Dolo Park (signature burger patty, harissa labneh, cucumber, leafy greens, tomato). The meal is rounded out by dessert options Sama Sama (ube cookie, horchata ice cream, toasted coconut crumb) and PS Doughnut (vanilla spiced sugar).
Stories From Home is a Merkado-hosted series that invites food and beverage entrepreneurs to share their stories and dishes while raising funds and awareness for their business and causes. Previous installations have featured chef Monique Feybesse, performer Juanita MORE!, and another presentation from chef Shimizu, who is currently incubating his Pacific Rim barbeque concept at Merkado. Reservations can be made here. Saturday November 16th. 5:30pm–8pm. 130 Townsend St. at Stanford.
the sponsor
This Friday Is Press Club’s 16th Annual Harvest Party, Featuring Nine Wineries and Seasonal Bites
Press Club on Yerba Buena Lane in downtown San Francisco is hosting their 16th annual Harvest Party on Friday November 15th. The urban wine bar and lounge will be welcoming nine wineries to pour tastes from 6pm to 9pm.
Wineries include Iron Horse, Kanzler Family Vineyards, Frank Family Vineyards, MacRostie Sonoma Coast, Emblem Napa Valley, Clos Du Val, Shafer Vineyards, PlumpJack Estate Winery, and Newfound Wines. In addition, Press Club is now serving cocktails and will have a special selection of harvest-themed drinks.
Cheese and charcuterie will be served to soak up the adult beverages, along with passed savory appetizers from executive chef Alex Kollock. A DJ will be spinning the hottest hits and classic dance songs blended with hip-hop vibes. Tickets are $45 in advance and at the door. Get your ticket here.
Friday November 15th. 6pm–9pm. 20 Yerba Buena Ln.
the lush
QBar Reopens in the Castro, Rising Like a Queer Phoenix from a Fire
It was great to see pics from friends at the ribbon-cutting a few days ago celebrating the reopening of QBar, a queer bar and club in the Castro that has been closed for almost five years to the day from a devastating fire in 2019. Owners Cip Cipriano and John Bellemore have redesigned the space (think dark, industrial, and underground, with some custom art installations inside), and “will continue the bar’s mission to serve as an all-inclusive space while catering specifically to queer, trans and communities of color.” Here’s to the return of another safe space for the LGBTQIA+ community, needed now more than ever.
Follow QBar’s Instagram account for updates on special nights and parties (they were serving $2 drinks this Monday, lordt), and mark your calendar for a one-night reunion/return of the infamous Booty Call Wednesdays on Wednesday November 27th, hosted by local nightlife icon Juanita MORE! This night will feature the Thanksgiving Eve tradition with “Granny” (aka Mr. David Glamamore), plus DJ BEYA, and Shot in the City Photography (the party—which was co-founded with Joshua J in 2007—included a photo booth where you could model with a different art installation every week by a local artist, but this night, it’s with Granny, another piece of fine art!). 9pm–2am, $15. 456 Castro St. at 17th St.
