what’s cookin’
Howdy, hopper friends. I’m back in your inbox, this time with a bunch of restaurant news and updates for you. Man, the past few weeks have been so intense and stressful and exhausting with this move, but I’m finally settling in and sleeping better. My birthday is Friday 🎉, and you can be damn sure I’m planning on getting a massage—my body feels like I’m 80 (well, maybe it’s more like 70 this week).
There’s nothing quite like analyzing your life while putting everything away, spice by spice, lipstick by lipstick, bottle of booze by bottle of booze, caftan by caftan. Thanks to so many of you who wrote sweet notes of support, and empathy from those of you who have been in a similar shituation of leaving your longtime, rent-controlled space. So many feels.
It was so fun to hear from my new neighbors welcoming me to the area. Awwww! The rotisserie chicken my friend picked up for me from Roli Roti in front of Cheese Plus last night is going to make my Mondays really tasty, and I’ve been loving my bún bowls from Hoi An, and bites and tea drinks from Common Sage market and kitchen (I scarfed their bibimbap with housemade kimchi and all kinds of veggies, which I was desperately craving). Speaking of takeout, did you see this recent article about how horrible those omnipresent black plastic takeout boxes are for our health? Blergh. Just making sure you know!
But really, is there a more iconic food to represent moving than pizza? This past weekend, the category over here was BOXES, both unpacking boxes and pizza boxes! The kind folks at Fort Point Beer sent me my first delivery in my new apartment: a four-pack of Primo, an American pilsner made in collaboration with Outta Sight Pizza (chef-owner Eric Ehler used to be the chef at Fort Point’s Valencia Street location). I decided I needed to order one of Outta Sight’s vodka pizzas to pair with this lightly citrusy and crisp beer—such crushable perfection together (and I love the big boy beer size). You can order four-packs of 16 oz. cans on fortpointbeer.com for delivery in one hour for $17. Cheers! 🍻
This week has all kinds of celebrations going on: Diwali (The Festival of Lights) begins today (Tuesday October 29th) and runs for five days. I see tables available for COPRA’s Diwali brunch this weekend (November 2nd–3rd, $75); over at Besharam, chef Heena Patel is offering a special Diwali Chef’s Tasting Menu: a six-course, family-style experience inspired by the strong women who have shaped her culinary journey as a self-taught chef (October 30th–November 1st, scroll down to see it here, $85); and the new Bombay Brasserie is offering a special six-course dinner menu by executive chef Thomas George for $89, available Tuesday October 29th–Saturday November 2nd.
It’s Halloween on Thursday (Happy Halloween!), and if you want to celebrate spooky season in a creative way, chef-owner Kim Alter of Nightbird has created an Alfred Hitchcock–themed menu that features 10 courses ($195), available now through November 9th; reservations here.
I also read that truffle season is in full swing at A16, available nightly throughout the holiday season. Here we go! (FYI, I plan on sharing some Thanksgiving options next week…)
So, are you ready to dive into this week’s catch-up column of news and updates? (I will be honest, my brain was not. Pardon any loose writing, I’m still not firing on all cylinders over here. Oof!) I also have a fun sponsored giveaway for you to celebrate SF Restaurant Week (which is kicking off Friday November 8th!). This week, I’m going to check out the soon-to-open Le Dix-Sept Pâtisserie’s newest Potrero Hill location, opening this Saturday November 2nd—I’ll have an update for you in my next column.
I do have this fun clip for you from my segment in the new KRON4 series, “This Is Our City,” with the fab Vicki Liviakis! We hung out over muffulettas and Negronis at Cafe Zoetrope, and there’s fun footage from my Bohemian Sunday renewal party at the Savoy Tivoli. Just scroll through the carousel of videos until you see my name. Thank you, Vicki! It was a wonderful way to celebrate my 30th anniversary of living here in SF.
Well, the election is a week away, eeeeeeeeee, and I know we’re all feeling the stress—take good care of yourself, vote early, and breathe! (And remember, indica 💨 is your friend.)
Thinking best thoughts.
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Fifty Vara, a New Outer Sunset Restaurant and Bar, Is Opening in Early 2025 from a Longtime Industry Professional
Something I really love about my job is seeing someone in the industry whom I have known for a long time open their own project, especially when they’ve lived in the City for a while. Brian Reccow, CEO and founder of The Specialistas (a hospitality solutions consulting company), recently told me he had a project coming to the former Sunset Reservoir Brewing Company location. Previous owner Hilary Passman closed the brewery in August (after 10 years) so she could focus more on her other business, Devil’s Teeth Baking Co., and reached out to Reccow about the space (he lives just blocks away, and has known Passman for years). Reccow has been living in the Sunset since 1997, and the opportunity to launch his own concept in the space really resonated with him.
Coming in mid-January 2025 will be Fifty Vara, a Cal-Med influenced bar and restaurant (and brewery), which will reflect a culmination of Reccow’s extensive hospitality experience and deep consulting network. He isn’t bringing on any partners for this project, but everyone helping him is a friend or favorite collaborator from over the past 25 years, from Jim Maxwell of Architects II, to consulting chef Trish Tracey, to Cindy Bonilla of Sunset Roots (who is installing a beautiful plant interior).
Reccow’s background working at Thirsty Bear, Cortez, and Ramblas will inform the Spanish and Mediterranean influences at Fifty Vara, and his years working as director of operations for Adriano Paganini (Back of the House) will definitely support his opening timeline and business management. And then there’s his background with beer, from consulting for New Belgium and Magnolia, to opening the former Belga on Union, to owning Reccow Brewing Company from 1996–2000. But, to be clear, while Fifty Vara will have a brewery component, Reccow isn’t interested in being a brewing company—it’s more about utilizing the brewery to craft world-class beer for the community and drive value for customers in the restaurant.
The menu will feature contemporary Californian and seasonal flavors, the majority of which will be shareable plates, with local seafood, roasted meats, and grilled vegetables, and plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options. There will also be a full bar/cocktail program, wine, and house-brewed craft beer. It’s designed to be a welcoming and inviting neighborhood restaurant and bar, whether it’s a night out with friends or the family or a date destination.
The project’s name comes from how surveyors would survey land in SF (50- or 100-vara plots) and was inspired by a missing map that was rediscovered with a 50-vara plot that included the Sunset (and the restaurant location) from the mid-1800s. The building was originally a produce company built in the 1940s and has a soaring barrel ceiling with massive skylights.
The design and feeling of the space is going to evolve with warm Mediterranean colors and will feel like a lush coastal space, with plant-scapes, a few large custom driftwood chandeliers, a veined stone bar top, lots of bodega glassware, blue copper pendants, and black steel wainscoting. There will be room for 145–150, and the upstairs mezzanine will be perfect for private parties and events (it has room for 75). The space also has an entertainment permit, so there’s lots of programming that can be added—the sound is also going to be updated.
After years of consulting all over the City, Reccow is excited to create something special and personal to give back to his beloved Sunset neighborhood. He believes in the strength of the Sunset community and is betting on the City—he’s opening Fifty Vara with faith in SF’s comeback story.
He’s gunning for a mid-January opening, starting with dinner service, then adding brunch, lunch, and private parties. I’ll keep you posted on all of it. 1735 Noriega St. at 24th Ave.
Open Now: A New Parisian Concept From the Mind Behind Barcha, Sens
by Savannah Leone Bundy
The Embarcadero’s newest restaurant and bar, Bon Délire (a Parisian-inspired bistro put forth by restaurateur Kais Bouzidi of Kaisen Concepts) promises to be a chic waterfront experience with modern takes on classic French dishes, spirit-forward cocktails, a sophisticated wine list, and casual-by-day/sultry-by-night vibes.
Open daily for lunch and dinner, Bon Délire’s (pronounced bon dey-leer and roughly translates to “good delirium”) offerings from executive chef Vernon Morales feature a combination of local produce and select French imports to create an elegant yet approachable menu. Lunch fare includes timeless sandwiches like croque madame or monsieur (Parisian ham, market greens, Gruyère; $18, with a black truffle add-on option for $21) and pan bagnat (poached tuna, six-minute egg, tomato, olive, anchovies; $24), while dishes like king salmon (coconut cream nage, smoked roe; $35), Brie and roast pears tart ($9), and charcuterie (bresaola $11; saucisson $10; speck $11; and all three for $26) are only available for dinner.
The rest of the menu...
Pier 3 Suite 102. The Embarcadero at Washington St.
Verjus Reopens This Weekend
Closures Include Mourad and Humphry Slocombe’s First Location in the Mission
Some big news hit over the weekend, when chef-owner Mourad Lahlou announced on Instagram that he was suddenly closing Mourad after 10 years, and the last night of service was Saturday October 26th. In Lahlou’s post, he alluded to “a bitter dispute with city officials over the last year,” and the San Francisco Standard reported on Monday that the restaurant was sued by the city of San Francisco three months ago for over $88K in back taxes, interest, and penalties owed. When Lahlou was unable to settle the debt after 10 days’ notice, the City forcibly collected back taxes and reportedly drained the restaurant’s operating account. We already know how much restaurants in SoMa are suffering, especially finer/higher-end dining establishments (to wit: Aphotic), so it’s tough to see yet another one close, and in such a brutal way. 140 New Montgomery St. at Minna.
I was saddened to receive an email from Humphry Slocombe founders Jake Godby and Sean Vahey announcing they’re closing their Mission shop. It’s their first location, which opened in 2008—it’s wild to remember the lines of people waiting for a scoop of Secret Breakfast or Jesus Juice back in the day. Their last day of business at the shop is Wednesday October 30th; their Ferry Building and Dogpatch locations in SF remain open, as well as numerous locations around the Bay. 2790 Harrison St. at 24th St.
Over in Richmond, I was bummed to learn the Montaña family closed their El Garage restaurant, which started as a pop-up out of their home garage, and pretty much kicked off the local quesabirria craze. I remember heading over early one weekend in July 2019 with my wingwoman T$ of California Eating (do you subscribe?) to check them out, sitting on the residential sidewalk to eat those magical, drippy, cheesy taco miracles. They have pretty much been my benchmark as the best since that first bite. At least this isn’t goodbye—El Garage will be popping up and offering catering, follow their whereabouts on Instagram. [Via KQED]
And back over in SF’s Inner Richmond, we have a temporary closure coming up on November 1st at Toy Boat by Jane for some much-needed seismic work. The shop will be returning in the spring (with Butterscotch the horse). Expect some festive fun for Halloween, the last day before they close for construction. 401 Clement St. at 5th Ave.
The Owner of El Faro Isn’t Throwing in the Towel After All
Poor El Faro in the Mission—after a spate of robberies (three in a week!) totaled more than $30,00 in losses and damages, Mission Local reported that owner Raymunda Ramirez was calling it quits and was going to sell the legacy business; she was an employee for 20 years, and has owned El Faro for 25 years, so you can imagine how difficult this decision was. To remind you of the important history of this SF institution, El Faro is credited with creating and selling the first Mission-style super burrito on September 26th, 1961 (as the sign inside the taqueria proclaims).
But what a difference a community outpouring of support can make: this past weekend, Mission community member Cutberto Ramirez and others rallied to show the Ramirez family some love and support with a fundraising event outside the restaurant, and now NBC reports she won’t be closing the restaurant after all. After the strong turnout, Ramirez had a change of heart, and is going to keep on pushing and try to recover. The family started a GoFundMe page to raise money to cover their losses—please show this iconic restaurant and longtime owner some love, whether it’s where you get your next burrito, or you contribute to their fundraiser. Keep the lighthouse shining! 2399 Folsom St. at 20th St.
Another Comeback: Onsen Bathhouse and Restaurant
Back in 2016, I remember when Sunny Simmons and Caroline Smith opened Onsen, a combination bathhouse and restaurant in a former auto shop in the Tenderloin. It was such a tranquil and unique space, with so many personal touches and care for the community, plus delicious, clean food from chef George Meza, well-selected sake, and beer.
After 31 Years, Maurizio Passes the Torch at Ideale in North Beach
Madonn’, there’s a new generation of ownership at Ristorante Ideale in North Beach. The San Francisco Business Times was first to report co-owners Maurizio and Shanna Bruschi have sold the authentic Roman restaurant (which is also SF’s 400th legacy business) after 31 years of business to longtime employees Paolo Fraschetti and Fabio Cinelli. Regulars will be relieved to know things will remain as is, from the staff to the menu, like their thin-crust Roman pizzas and classic Roman pasta dishes (including their delicious gnocchi).
Maurizio and Shanna will continue to run their Nob Hill restaurant Serafina with partner Giuseppe Terminiello, as well as Piccolo Forno in North Beach. You can read their farewell post on Facebook here (and read more about a special farewell dinner on Sunday November 17th). 1309 Grant Ave. at Vallejo.
A Surprisingly Massive Project Is Being Proposed for the Former Fleur de Lys Location
I know I’m not the only one who has wondered what is going to happen to the former Fleur de Lys location on Nob Hill, which Hubert and Chantal Keller closed in 2014. Well, it ends up it’s not going to be another restaurant after all (the location first opened as a restaurant in the late 1950s). A developer just submitted a proposal for a 26-story/36-unit/240-foot residential tower for the lot, which is three times taller than anything in the neighborhood, and you can imagine how that’s going over with nearby residents. 777 Sutter St. at Jones. [Via SF Chronicle]
Expansions and New Casual Spots
Some quick opening news for you:
Pasta Supply Co. Mission Launches Delivery
While leading a family on a custom tablehopper tour of the Inner Richmond last weekend, I’m so glad I picked up some pasta and sauces while we were at Pasta Supply Co. on Clement Street (vegan bolognese for the win—I love that sauce—and the cultured pink peppercorn butter). It ends up I could have had that lifeline delivered to me and my empty fridge, since Pasta Supply Co. just started offering delivery (or pickup) from their Mission location. You can order fresh pasta, their badass sauces, and supplies from the shop, and they’re also offering their meatball parm sandwich, a salad, and prepared pasta dishes, like rigatoni for two or baked penne. 3233 22nd St. at Bartlett.
the sugar mama
San Francisco Restaurant Week Returns November 8th—Enter to Win One of Two Gift Certificates to Dine in Style!
Attention all food lovers! Get ready for San Francisco’s most exciting culinary event in the fall: San Francisco Restaurant Week (running Friday November 8th through Sunday November 17th, 2024)! Celebrate the flavors of the City and enter to win a gift certificate at participating San Francisco Restaurant Week restaurants: we’re giving away a $100 gift certificate to classic SF restaurants, John’s Grill (since 1908!), and another winner will win $100 for Schroeder’s (since 1893!). To enter to win a gift certificate, visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram. Good luck!
Delectable weekend brunch? Indulgent five-star dinner? SF Restaurant Week brings you lunch and dinner options from over 150 restaurants, including Luce, Greens, Delfina, Gumbo Social, and more!
Restaurants will offer special prix-fixe menus at one or more of the following price points:
- brunch or lunch (2+ items or courses): $10, $15, $25, $35, $45
- dinner (3+ items or courses): $30, $45, $60, $75, $90
Visit sfrestaurantweek.com to see all participating restaurants and to make reservations.
The week will also feature two Eat Drink SF Events! Don’t miss out on a Cocktail Party on November 14th, at Cold Drinks Bar & Gold Mountain Lounge at China Live, and a Closing Brunch on November 17th, at Wayfare Tavern. Visit eatdrink-sf.com for tickets and more information.
