what’s cookin’
Whooo, someone pinch me, did I really dance for three hours with friends on Sunday night to Carrie on Disco taking us on a journey through the funky disco and house heavens at the new Stud? It truly was a Sunday Situation, what a turnt-out (thank you, Rich King)! I loved seeing San FranDisco tearin’ it up on a Sunday night, folx were not going to miss the family reunion. It was a whirl and a twirl. Can I get a hand clap? It was wild to run into longtime party friends who remembered when me and my disco associate Ryan used to throw our Rehab disco brunch there back when it was Julie’s Supper Club, exactly 20 years ago, so crazy. I was bouncy like a little kid, so fired up and grateful SF has our queer touchstone and home base back. Hi, Bernie at the bar! Heyyyy, dance floor family! So good to seeee youuuuu! Fortunately, your Cinderella made it home just before the strike of midnight, because someone had a lot of writing to do yesterday. Thankfully, Carrie’s mixes powered me through (4,507 words, babes—actually, you folks on the free list get 3,989), so today’s column is definitely built on disco. A chugger.
I’m looking forward to seeing Veronica Klaus perform at Martuni’s on Thursday, that will assuredly bring another wonderful group of longtime SF folks together. (Her shows are sold out, FYI!) And Friday is Harris’ 40th anniversary party, I can’t wait for some live jazz and roast filet! Here’s hoping the weather behaves on Saturday, do I really see rain in the forecast? Just stop it already! I was planning to head to Electric Fields and boogie to Doc Martin at this daytime party in the Golden Gate Park Bandshell. Rain, you were 86’ed from this party. Don’t interrupt my spring fever!
And now, some exciting press mentions that have happened in the last 24 hours since I sent my newsletter out to supporting subscribers:
Last night, after my deadline, reporter Lauren Toms from CBS NEWS BAY AREA/KPIX reached out for my comments on the potential end of restaurant surcharges with the passage of SB 478 into law this July. The segment aired on the 11pm newscast last night, you can watch it here. (Nothing like getting camera-ready at home at 9pm, LOL.)
Ending the ability for restaurants to charge surcharges and fees will be extremely challenging—if not catastrophic—especially for the businesses that have moved to an all-inclusive service charge model in order to offer their staff a more-equitable wage structure, instead of relying on the traditional tip model (which is rife with issues). These are not junk fees! We’ll have to see if Gov. Newsom (or other lawmakers) hear the many issues and negative impact Attorney General Bonta’s interpretation of the bill will have on restaurants and hopefully amend it before July 1st. (Because it’s just not onerous enough to operate a restaurant and keep it open right now, criminy. Pivot pivot pivot.) And for the folks who hate paying a Healthy SF mandate, guess what? The end of surcharges will just make menu prices go up, so we will pay one way or the other. (You can read more in this SFist piece.) Stand by for updates.
This week’s column is dedicated to the memory of my Great Uncle Tony, who departed this mortal plane last week after spending 100 inspiring years with us. What a life—he was such a hard worker and gifted businessman, it’s incredible to see what he achieved in his version of the American dream, coming from the tiny village of Aria di Lupi in Lago, Calabria, all the way to California. He was deeply dedicated to taking such good care of his family, and you should have seen him proudly seated at the head of our looooong holiday table every Christmas Eve. His sartorial sense and sprezzatura were also admirable, the man had wicked style. Every time I’d see him, I’d shake my head—he always outdid himself with some flair. I’m so glad this last year of his long life was such a good one—he was happy and loved and celebrated. It made me think of this Tony Bennett quote: “Life teaches you how to live it if you live long enough.” Love you, Zio.
Polish your shoes this week, Uncle Tony is watching you.
Raising my glass,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
New Openings Include SHOWA Le Gourmet Tonkatsu and Hed 11
Praise the Soufflé Heavens
Trois Frenchie Bistros Are Coming!
The team behind Bouche on Bush—chef Jeremy Blaringhem and Julie Fulton—and now with longtime friend Oriane Paul are opening Galinette in the former Hotline in the Outer Sunset. All three were born and raised in coastal cities in France (Lille, Marseille, and Nantes), so they decided to “bring together a unique perspective in the creation of a beach bistro.” There will be a lovely wine list, and they plan to be open daily with an all-day seasonal menu (their hope is to be open 9am–9pm, and until 11pm on the weekend).
As for the name, galinette means “little chicken,” as well as a fish they use for their bouillabaisse, but most commonly in Provence, it’s a cute nickname they call each other: “Hey Ma Galinette, ça va?” Supposedly the trio use it all the time with each other. They’ll be doing some light cosmetic remodeling for the next couple months and hopefully opening in the next six–eight weeks. 3554 & 3560 Taraval St. at 46th Ave.
ChouChou French Bistro, a longtime neighborhood French bistro in Forest Hill (since 1998) is opening a second location in the former Catch in the Castro, according to What Now SF. No word from owner Mina Habil on when their French onion soup, escargots, and mussels and frites are coming to the gayborhood. 2362 Market St. at Castro.
The New Bar Sets a New Bar for N/A Options, Opening This Saturday May 4th
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Brianda Gonzalez grew up in the hospitality-driven town of Avalon on Catalina Island where bars and alcohol sustained both the economy and social gatherings in general. It was hard to imagine life without it, but after her father’s health took an unexpected turn and he was no longer able to drink, Brianda looked for new ways to keep their family rituals without compromising his new lifestyle. While on that journey, the soon-to-be CEO and founder noticed a significant opportunity to create a space that felt inclusive to people who can’t or don’t want to drink alcohol. Thus, The New Bar was born.
After leaving her tech job in 2022, Gonzalez embarked on a quest to find and share the best nonalcoholic beverages the world has to offer. The New Bar—which operates two bottle shops in Los Angeles—is the official n/a partner of Coachella and Stagecoach, and is opening a third location in SF this weekend. It’s the result of hundreds, if not thousands, of hours of research and mindful dedication to perfecting the craft of nonalcoholic drink-making and drinking. The retailer offers a selection of over 100 premium n/a wines, spirits, and alcohol alternatives, all hand-selected through Gonzalez’s careful curation. A few of her faves are Almave zero-proof agave spirit, Copenhagen Sparkling Tea, and Prima Pavé sparkling wine.
The brand’s newest location launches this weekend in Cow Hollow (and not a moment too soon since n/a shop Boisson in Hayes Valley announced its closure) and the grand opening will be a celebration of the optimism and curiosity that The New Bar hopes to inspire in not just the definitively sober, but in the general population who is becoming more aware of their mental health and wellbeing. “Most consumers that we speak with also enjoy alcoholic beverages,” Brianda notes, “everybody I talk to says ‘I’m just trying to drink a little bit less, and I am trying to feel a little bit healthier, I want to have more energy to do the things I love.’”
The New Bar SF will be more than just a bottle shop—the company is committed to community engagement and has plans to activate the space with regularly scheduled programming like happy hours, classes, daily tastings, and “events and experiences that give people what they usually are looking for in an alcoholic experience but also just brings them in and makes it a little bit easier to learn more about the category.”
This Saturday May 4th, the programming kicks off with a grand opening party complete with music, bites, n/a bubbly, cocktails, and beer, product giveaways, a raffle, and more from 11am–3pm. The fun doesn’t stop there, though—there will be promotions all weekend and an upcoming floral arrangement course that features floral-forward n/a cocktails to go along with the pieces. “There’s a special magic to going to a place that’s dedicated to being masters of a craft,” says Brianda, and she and the team are thrilled to bring that magic to the City.
The New Bar opens Saturday May 4th at 11am. Hours are Mon–Thu 12pm–7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–8pm, Sun 11am–7pm. 2181 Union St. at Fillmore.
New Menus, Service, and Some Tasty Deals, Too
The innovative and fun/finer dining spot Anomaly SF from chef Mike Lanham (Spruce, Commis, Bird Dog) has launched a new abbreviated menu available Tuesdays through Thursdays for $109. Go have an upscale midweek night out! They also just kicked off their new spring menu, bring on the asparagus and snap peas. Tables are limited and can be booked through Tock. 2600 Sutter St. at Baker.
Anthony Strong just launched lunch at Pasta Supply Co., serving four riffs on baked penne (salt cod puttanesca, spinach-artichoke dip, creamy tomato vodka, and pork sugo and spicy greens, $15 each) and there’s a house salad you can add things to. Walk-in only, order at the counter. Available daily 11am–4pm, which means they’re now open for dinner at 4:30pm. And: their new Mission spot should be open in a couple weeks! 236 Clement St. at 3rd Ave.
Scoma’s is offering a new two-course, prix-fixe lunch with some of their most popular dishes for $37. Options include Scoma’s famous clam chowder, Gulf shrimp mezzi rigatoni with gremolata, or the longtime favorite petite crab Louie. Available Mon–Fri 12pm–4pm. Or, you could just come in for their famous bloody Mary garnished with a chilled shrimp, a bacon-wrapped scallop, a crab cake fritter, and two fried Castelvetrano olives ($30).
Closures Include Maison Danel, Plus Concept Changes at Che Fico Alimentari, and Petit Crenn’s Last Hurrah
I had a tablehopper reader reach out asking about Maison Danel in Lower Polk, the French pâtisserie and tea salon that Danel and David de Betelu opened just before the pandemic, and it looks like they have closed their dream shop. I reached out but didn’t hear back; reservations are no longer available, and their phone doesn’t work. A customer on NextDoor posted that Maison Danel canceled her upcoming reservation, and said they were closing due to lack of customers and revenue. Sorry to hear this, such tough times to make it through these past four years. 1030 Polk St. at Post.
Over in the Mission, Ivory & Vine (3248 22nd St. at Bartlett) announced their closure on Instagram. The wine and piano bar opened in the former Revolution Cafe in May 2022 from Chris Nickolopoulos, who is behind the charming Linden & Laguna in Hayes Valley. But a tablehopper supporting subscriber just informed me: “I did want to comment on your mention of Linden & Laguna, which has been closed for a few weeks. Originally there was a sign saying it was closed temporarily because of a family emergency, but I’ve noticed in the past week that a ‘For Sale’ now appears in the window.” I don’t see any reservations available, so it looks like this spot may have sadly closed as well. 528 Laguna St. at Linden.
Over the weekend, Che Fico Alimentari, the casual downstairs restaurant and wine bar from Che Fico, announced they’re ending this version of the concept after service on May 9th. Their Instagram post says: “Post-pandemic, our cherished neighborhood restaurant struggled with the new economic realities, making it clear that its current model was unsustainable. Despite our best efforts (offering CSA boxes, CPG products, to-go services, pantry items, catering, private events, and price adjustments) the challenges persisted.”
It sounds like they’re going to integrate the space for private dining, cocktail service, and a piece in SFGATE mentions “Nayfeld plans to tailor the focus of the downstairs space to a grab-and-go menu called Che Fico To-Go — think tiramisu, pizza, chopped salad, and other items that travel well.” The team is also focused on their new Menlo Park location and upcoming pizzeria at Thrive City (which SFGATE mentions should be open in six weeks). 834 Divisadero St. at McAllister.
Dominique Crenn is taking her Petit Crenn in Hayes Valley out for a final spin before closing the restaurant in September 2024, when the lease ends. She opened the restaurant in 2015, and it has been mostly closed throughout the pandemic, just open for partnerships (including with Rethink Food to provide healthy meals to the food insecure, working closely with Glide Church for two years), special events, and pop-ups. But starting in mid-May, she’s going to bringing back the original and personal concept that told a culinary story of her home: “Drawing from the food traditions of Chef Crenn’s mother and grandmother, the tasting menu will be classic and creative, combining the flavors of Brittany, France, with the exceptional fish, seafood and produce of California.”
While reservations for May and June are booked up, July and August reservations will be released as new seasonal menus are updated. Please note: this experience is pescatarian and they’re unable to accommodate dietary restrictions. Seats will be available Wed–Sat for $210 per person, including wine or non-alcoholic pairings (price does not include tax or service charge). Visit the Seven Rooms page for reservations. 609 Hayes St. at Laguna.
And in Berkeley, Market Hall Foods just announced they’re closing their Berkeley shop, Market Hall Foods on 4th, after 28 years (since 1996!), on Sunday May 26th, 2024. You can read their full letter about the reasons behind the unfortunate closure here. Their flagship Oakland shop and the businesses at Rockridge Market Hall remain open. 1786 Fourth St., Berkeley.
Some Quick and Tasty East Bay Updates
I was reading a recent La Cocina newsletter and learned about Tanzie’s Cafe in Berkeley from La Cocina’s former bar manager Jae Rojas and his partner Tanz. “Their restaurant was inspired by the Northern Thai flavors of Tanz’s mom and the home kitchens of Chiang Mai, Thailand. Tanzie’s brunch menu includes scrumptious dishes, like Thai beignets served with condensed milk, jasmine Thai tea chia bowls, lava eggs with house-made Chiang Mai-style sausage, and fried rice with pork belly—all with ingredients from local farms.” Sounds wonderful, check out the menu here. Open Wed–Mon 7:30am–3:30pm (closed Tue). 1453 Dwight Way, Berkeley.
The La Cocina newsletter also mentioned Jennifer Huang of Indonesian dessert business NUSA is now softly open in Public Market Emeryville. Originally 1000 Layer Bakery, if you ever ordered the hopper holiday gift bag, you may have have tried her amazing pineapple nastar tartlets. At her new kiosk, she’s going to be offering both sweet and savory Indonesian treats and dishes, including her signature thousand-layer cake, pandan chiffon, and the pineapple tartlets (!), along with slow-cooked caramelized spiced beef rendang, coriander-braised tofu and tempeh, chicken and pork satay, turmeric chicken rice noodles, and Indonesian fried rice. NUSA is open daily with a limited lunch menu from 11am–2pm, and starting May 15th, their hours and menu offerings will expand to include dinner service (11am–7:30pm). 5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville.
You gotta take a look at the new digs (and expanded Cal-Palestinian menu from chef-owner Mona Leena Michael) at Lulu in Berkeley, opening Saturday May 4th on Albany’s Solano Avenue. [via Eater]
Mill Valley’s First Cocktail Lounge Opens
I’m always happy to see where chef Michael Siegel (Shorty Goldstein’s Betelnut, Bix) lands, and he’s currently behind the menu at Corner Bar in Downtown Mill Valley. This new cocktail lounge and restaurant is from Bill Higgins, Peter Schumacher, and Jason Sims, the team behind Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44, and Playa. Look for original cocktails from managing partner Jason Sims, plus classic cocktails, n/a options, and a daily cocktail special for $10.
Siegel’s menu includes salmon tartare on latkes, duck wings à l'orange, various vegetarian dishes and skewers, and a signature burger with housemade fries. The 60-seat space has a loungey style from architect Tim Dixon and designer Liz Schumacher, with oversized brass chandeliers, a velvet and leather upholstered lounge area, and views of the town square. Open daily 4pm–11pm. 106 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley.
the sponsor
Join Cultivar SF for Their Seventh Anniversary Party on Sunday May 5th
Cultivar San Francisco in the Marina invites you to their Seventh Anniversary and May Wine Club Party on Sunday May 5th from 4pm–6pm. A collection of wines, restaurants, and retail, Cultivar is rooted in Napa Valley with sixty years of family history as growers, vintners, and ranchers of the land, drawing on the rich land at Caspar Estate.
Executive chef David Neri will serve wine country–inspired, farm-to-table bites paired with Cultivar and Caspar Estate Wines. The party ticket is $45 (complimentary for wine club for members and if you sign up at the party). In honor of the anniversary, seven lucky attendees will be entered in a giveaway to receive a gift certificate for $70.
2379 Chestnut St. at Divisadero, San Francisco, CA 94123
4pm–6pm
the socialite
Celebrating the Moms with Brunch, Baked Goods, and More…
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Mother’s Day is less than two weeks away, and if you haven’t made plans to treat your favorite mothers, motherly figures, or mother-identifying parents on Sunday May 12th, we’ve got you covered!
Top of the Mark is celebrating Mom with a lavish Mother’s Day brunch buffet highlighting the city’s culinary diversity with a shellfish and caviar bar, charcuterie, dim sum, carved meats, special entrées, breakfast classics, and a make-your-own pavlova station. You can’t beat that view! Reservations can be made here. $189/adult, $70/child. 10:30am, 11am, 1:30pm, and 2pm. 999 California St. at Mason.
A16 (in Oakland and SF) is going to have an all-day menu for la mamma with à la carte specials like baccalà alla napoletana, strapazzata pizza, lasagna verde, bistecca alla fiorentina, and oysters on the half shell. Wine and spritz pairings will also be available along with the regular menu. 11am–8pm. 2355 Chestnut St. at Divisadero and 5356 College Ave. at Hudson, Oakland.
Old Skool Café in Bayview is throwing a jazz brunch with live music in celebration of the mothers. The youth-led supper club will be serving up fresh pastries, prime rib, fried chicken, and more. $65/adult, $25/child. 11am–2:30pm. 1429 Mendell St. at Oakdale.
Le Dix-Sept is taking orders for their elegant Mother’s Day pastry box available to pick up from their Mission shop on Sunday the 12th. The box includes rhubarb brioche love knot, pistachio-strawberry tart, kumquat-chamomile layer cake, berry-butterscotch bar, Meyer lemon–chocolate almond tart, raspberry-rose macaron, and salted caramel macaron. Orders can be placed here. $50. Pickups from 11am–2pm. 3376 18th St. at Mission.
Support 18 Reasons’ Community Programs with a Passport to Flavor
On Wednesday May 15th is 18 Reasons’ Master Chefs at Home: Passport to Flavor, an annual fundraising event (their biggest!) to support their free community programs, providing vital food access and cooking classes across the Bay Area.
The night begins with a chic cocktail party at the SF Design Center—a live band will provide the soundtrack for your voyage from South Africa to Italy as you sample global appetizers and view live cooking demonstrations. Bartenders will be shaking up a variety of cocktails highlighting flavors from around the world. Sit down for a family-style feast, and hear inspiring stories of how 18 Reasons is changing lives across the Bay Area. Hope to see you there!
Tickets available here—purchase an individual ticket, or become a table host and a table for ten will be all yours. 6pm–9:30pm. San Francisco Design Center, 101 Henry Adams St.
