what’s cookin’
Everything I wrote in yesterday’s column to supporting subscribers no longer matters today. Like many of you, I am absolutely gutted, devastated, overwhelmed, horrified, worried, and deeply exhausted. This past month has already kicked my ass in so many ways, so I just need to sign off and say here’s the news. May today’s missive give you a moment of much-needed distraction or pleasure at some point—there are new pastries and prime rib and pizza and pastrami you can get.
Take extra-good care of yourself and others right now. Hope can really break your heart, so she needs to rest in order to recover and come back stronger.
With love,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Le Dix-Sept Opens a Second (and Lilac) Location on Potrero Hill
Last week, it was such a pleasure to visit the brand-new, Potrero Hill location of Le Dix-Sept Pâtisserie just before it opened this past Saturday November 2nd. This second location was a long time coming, so it’s wonderful to see the doors finally swing open. Owner Michelle Hernández started Le Dix-Sept as a pop-up in 2011, before opening her first brick-and-mortar off 18th Street in the Mission in 2020, known for its hot pink exterior and signature canelés (perhaps you remember her exquisite nougat in a past tablehopper holiday gift bag?). This latest location in the new Mason on Mariposa complex (just by La Connessa) has lilac walls, with brasserie-inspired chandeliers, pink and cream tile floors, and gold and bronze accents. The expanded production space is really helping Hernández stretch her wings.
In case Le Dix-Sept Pâtisserie is new to you, the name is in reference to the seventeenth arrondissement in Paris, which is the quarter where Hernández lived (she studied at Le Cordon Bleu and worked in Michelin-starred restaurants abroad before returning to her native Bay Area).
The front case is full of a rotating selection of her unique cakes, pastries, tarts, cookies, and savory items, too. You’ll find her bestselling almond tart (with passionfruit crème in the center), which is magically gluten-free since it’s made with almond flour—same goes for the fantastic, two-layered pistachio and chocolate ganache cake, which is naturally gluten-free (do not miss it!). I appreciate that her treats aren’t too sweet—you can really taste the individual ingredients.
Hernández loves to highlight seasonal produce and botanical flavors, so last week, there was a yogurt plum cake, which will change with what’s in the market (it was great for breakfast!), and there was also an autumn cake that shimmered like a mermaid, made with rose cake, mascarpone butter cream, and cinnamon pear in the center.
I adore cakey cookies, and her Luna brownie-sesame cookie is made with cacao nibs and flaked salt—thanks to the buckwheat flour she uses, it’s gluten-free. A perfect afternoon pick-me-up is the matcha coconut cookie, another thicc cookie.
Hernández is going to be highlighting more savory items in the case now, including the return of her decadent quiche (last week’s was made with maitake and crimini mushrooms, poblano, and Dubliner cheese). Her pillowy and golden focaccia with a crackly lid would make a Barese proud—I loved the salty and spicy version with Calabrian chile and anchovy, and there was also a Castelvetrano olive and herb focaccia, both were wondrous. Lucky us, focaccia sandwiches are coming!
Coffee from Lady Falcon and tea drinks and specialty beverages are also on offer, including a lavender latte, café mademoiselle (with brown sugar, vanilla bean, cinnamon), a matcha or hojicha cloud, chagaccino, chaga matcha, and a passion ginger fizz or prickly pear fizz.
There are also some pantry shelves with tea, coffee, nougat, Fishwife tinned fish, salts, and birthday cake candles for purchase. The space only has a few small tables inside and out, so it’s primarily to go. Open Wed–Sun 9am–4pm. 455 Carolina St. at Mariposa.
New Openings Include Golden Boy Pizza Parkside, Modí, and More
Congrats to Golden Boy Pizza, who finally made it through months of delays with the City, and are opening their latest location in Parkside in the former Marco Polo Italian Ice Cream shop (which moved this summer to 3886 Noriega Street in the Outer Sunset). Owner Peter Sodini was hoping to open back in May, but now they’re soft-opening this Thursday November 7th, giving away slices from 11am until they run out. The grand opening is Friday November 8th. For now, hours will be 11:30am–8:30pm daily and may extend from there, depending upon demand. Viva la pizza! 1447 Taraval St. at 23rd Ave.
A tablehopper reader who works downtown near Salesforce Park tipped me off about Modí, a new Italian-Mexican restaurant from co-owners Dario Nicotra and executive chef Marco Avila of Acquolina in North Beach. The website mentions it’s going to be: “a unique dining experience that blends the vibrant flavors of Mexico with the rich culinary traditions of Italy.” They have installed a Marra Forni hybrid rotator oven, so pizza will be on the menu. My tipster noted they’re offering an SF Restaurant Week deal (which includes lasagna de birria and pizza Holbox con pulpo y lobster garlic), so they should be opening any day now. 88 Natoma St. at 2nd St.
The brothers behind the popular Chuy’s Fiestas on Folsom Street in the Mission (and Chuy’s Fiestas Taqueria II on Post Street in Union Square) just opened a third location: Chuy’s Fiestas Restaurant and Taqueria on Mission Street in Bernal Heights. Check out their extensive menu of seafood, taqueria, and homestyle dishes here. Open daily 10am–9pm. 3839 Mission St. at Crescent Ave.
There’s a new Turkish café and bakery in Cow Hollow, Telve Coffee Shop, serving baklava, an array of Turkish delight, housemade cheesecake, sandwiches, and Turkish coffee and tea. You can enjoy Turkish breakfast and menemen (scrambled eggs, bell pepper, tomato, cheese), along with borek, croissants, and sandwiches, like sujuk grilled cheese, and their special sandwich with Gouda, salami, housemade muhammara, and lettuce. Open Mon–Thu 7am–10pm, Fri–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–7pm. 2163 Union St. at Fillmore.
Prime Rib Fridays and Pop-Ups
After the stress of this week, it would be a good thing to know I had a prime rib special waiting for me at Prospect on Friday. (And a strong-ass cocktail.) Running now through the end of the year, enjoy a roasted, koji-marinated ribeye with a twice-baked potato, creamed spinach, and a popover for $75 on Fridays. You could also make it in there early enough for happy hour (4pm–6pm) in the bar and lounge for a warm-up before dinner. 300 Spear St. at Folsom.
Alisha Wilson of Cajun-Caribbean pop-up and catering company Lil’Alijo is popping up every Saturday from 11am–3pm (through November 30th) at The Food Pavilion at India Basin Waterfront Park (there’s reportedly a nice view). Come by for a rotating menu of dishes like Cuban mojo wings, oxtail empanadas, red beans and rice, and an array of her baked goodies, like cinnamon roll banana bread and pumpkin spice cheesecake. (She will continue her Dogpatch popup as well, FYI.) 900 Innes Ave. at Griffith.
A Few Fun and New Venue Ideas for Holiday Parties
Last week, I popped by Pasta Supply Co. Mission to check out their new holiday and private party setup. You can book the semi-private pasta table (which is set up behind the pasta case) for all kinds of events, from a pasta bar happy hour to private pasta-making classes to family-style dinners, up to 10 guests. I mean, you had me at pasta bar, but there are also beverage and gift options for guests. Bookings are now live on OpenTable (click on “Experiences”).
Owner Anthony Strong has reconfigured the dining room as well, and it’s rather perfect for a low-key first date that won’t break the bank (you can go next door to the Make Out Room for a cocktail if things are going well). 3233 22nd St.
A couple months ago, I swung by Unwine’d in West Portal for an evening of tasty heavy apps and wine, and found out they offer an amazing package deal for private parties in their back room. Depending on the time of year, day of the week, number of guests, and time slot for the back room, you can host an all-you-can-eat-and-drink spread for $3–$5K for three hours! It’s pretty incredible to see how well your guests will be hosted once you view the extensive lineup of Greek and Italian food and domestic and imported wines they offer for private parties, which includes their tzatziki zucchini fritters, Greek spreads with pita (tzatziki, tyrokafteri, taramosalata), Greek salad, meatballs, imported cheese and salumi platters (I’m talking about the good stuff), and seven kinds of their Roman-style pinsas (including my favorite, the Calabrese Testadura with ’nduja, DOP Tropea onions, Calabrian chiles, soppressata Calabrese, and mozzarella). The room has a DJ booth, screens, and plenty of seating options for guests, up to 50 max. 9 W. Portal Ave.
Zanze’s Cheesecake Is Now Available at Mollie Stone’s
With the holiday season and parties coming up, you should know that you can now pick up fluffy Zanze’s Cheesecake at all nine locations of Mollie Stone’s Markets, thanks to the Duggan family, who are the new shepherds and owners of this iconic SF cheesecake brand (since 1978!). The cakes are being produced at Zanze’s original location on Ocean Avenue, using the same techniques perfected over 45 years, which set it apart from a traditional New York–style cheesecake. You’ll find the cheesecake in both the fresh bakery and frozen aisles at Mollie Stone’s, and they’re available for pre-ordering at catering.molliestones.com.
A Couple East Bay Updates
Over the weekend, The Monk’s Kettle Rockridge softly opened their doors after relocating from San Francisco. The new location features an open floor plan that creates one big room for the bar and dining room, with 26-plus seats at dining room tables, 14 bar stools, and ample standing room in the bar area. Additionally, there is a large back deck they plan to have open by this weekend—it’s weather-proofed for year-round use, with a protective roof, electric heat lamps, around 26 seats, a lemon tree (the space was previously Citron), and an overhead trellis. Executive chef Raiden Brenner will be adding a small kids’ menu, and they plan to open early on Sundays and offer a brunch menu after they get things underway. Hours for now are 11:30am–12am daily (last call for food at 11:45pm!). 5484 College Ave., Oakland.
I was sorry to read about the shakeup at Jo’s Modern Thai (and the upcoming The Peach brunch spot coming to Lakeshore Avenue) with the departure of talented chef-partner Intu-On Kornnawong (read more about the staff turmoil and reported management issues in this NOSH piece). SFGATE reports Kornnawong plans to open her own spot after taking a break and traveling: “Kornnawong plans to open her ‘dream’ restaurant concept serving Isaan cuisine, like her pop-up Intu-On, but with a little Japanese influence — think ‘Thai izakaya,’ she said.” Jo’s Modern Thai was temporarily closed, but it appears owner Kao Saelee has reopened the restaurant. 3725 MacArthur Blvd., Oakland.
the lush
Eco Terreno Reopens Its Urban Tasting Room
the socialite
Fall SF Restaurant Week and Eat Drink SF 2024 Return November 8th-17th
Starting this Friday November 8th, SF Restaurant Week is back, bringing you some great prix-fixe brunch, lunch, and dinner menu options from over 150 restaurants! You can check out newcomers like Bettola or The Wild or the new menu at Alora; hotspots like Dalida and Penny Roma; or neighborhood favorites like Delfina and Lily. Book your reservations now and support our local restaurant industry, they’d love to see you.
The week will also feature two Eat Drink SF Events: a Cocktail Party on Thursday November 14th at Cold Drinks Bar & Gold Mountain Lounge at China Live (5:30pm–8pm), and a Closing Brunch on Sunday November 17th (11am–2:30pm) at Wayfare Tavern. Visit eatdrink-sf.com for tickets and more information.
Thanksgiving Options for You, from Takeout Kits to Dine-In Dinners
Thanksgiving is showing up later this year (on Thursday November 28th), and whether you’re looking for a feast to pick up and bring home, a few sides to supplement your spread, or you want to dine out and have someone else do all the dishes, here are a variety of options from restaurants around the Bay. Order soon!
Brenda’s French Soul Food has popular Thanksgiving meal kits with all the fixin’s for 2–5 guests ($235 + tax), with boneless turkey breast, buttery whipped potatoes, braised collard greens (vegan), brown gravy, andouille sausage and cornbread dressing, cranberry compote, their famous cream biscuits, and housemade peach cobbler jam. These kits will sell out! They will also be open Thanksgiving Day for dine-in from 11am–4pm, just make a reservation. 652 Polk St.
When Covid ruined my Thanksgiving last year, I was truly thankful for friends who picked up the Thanksgiving feast from Lily for me to eat at home. Awwww! Chef (and good friend) Rob Lam absolutely rocks his Diestel turkey, which he roasts prime rib-style, and then smothers it in rich mushroom gravy—it comes accompanied by savory hash, with a bunch of sides. Pre-order your four-course takeout feast here (at the bottom of the page) for $78; pick up Wed 11/27 4pm–6pm and Thu 11/28 10am–2pm. You can also dine-in for $88/person, starting at 12pm, reserve here. 225 Clement St.
Gumbo Social is taking orders for holiday takeout meals for two ($90), four, or more that you will pick up on Tuesday November 26th–27th, and just heat and serve (you can also get turkey gumbo!). Vegans: there’s a stuffed acorn squash for you. 5176 3rd St.
Lord Stanley will be hosting Thanksgiving, featuring aged duck served on its crown and family-style starters (four courses, $150). Reservations available from 2pm–7:30pm. 2065 Polk St.
54 Mint is hosting a prix-fixe family meal ($70), with three different options for your main course, including vegetarian lasagna, grissini-breaded organic turkey breast, or red wine–braised short ribs. 16 Mint Plaza.
