what’s cookin’
Well, well, well, would you believe 18 years ago, I sent out the very first tablehopper newsletter? It was 2006, and a very different world then: the craft cocktail scene was just revving up, Eater hadn’t launched in SF yet, and we didn’t have iPhones! Twitter launched exactly one month later after tablehopper, and my Flickr page was my Instagram feed for all my pics I’d upload from my Canon PowerShot G6. Some of you have been reading tablehopper since the beginning, and I lovvvvvve youuuuuu so much—I’m raising my glass 🥂 to all of you! Which is exactly what I will be doing at dinner at Zuni tonight—I couldn’t think of a more perfect spot to celebrate tablehopper becoming an adult. Hurrah! I am so heartened about the future of my publication, thanks to your generous support.
Speaking of celebrating: I’m going to be hosting tablehopper’s first event since the pandemic (!) on Sunday April 14th (4pm–7pm)! Please save the date! It’s going to be A Bohemian Sunday at the Savoy-Tivoli: a renewal party from tablehopper. This party is a big thank you to the supporting subscribers who helped make my new subscription model a success, and ensured tablehopper made it to 18!
I can’t wait to tell you more, it’s going to be such a high-spirited Sunday afternoon (and evening) in North Beach. I’ll be sharing details as soon as possible, but for now, you just need to mark your calendar, mwah.
Since I’m mentioning North Beach, I wanted to share this obituary I found honoring the dynamic Mary Etta Moose, who sadly left us December 23rd, 2023, two days after her 95th birthday. I didn’t see much about it online until a month ago on Facebook, but for those who fondly remember the Washington Square Bar & Grill and Moose’s, I thought you’d enjoy reading this Cook’s Night Out article I found about Mary Etta in SFGATE in 2004 by the inimitable GraceAnn Walden (who passed back in 2015). I forgot I had Mary Etta’s obituary open in another browser window (which I just discovered this past weekend, ugh!), and didn’t want to miss mentioning her passing. She was a special lady, beloved by many.
Have a great remainder of the week and much-needed break from the rain, and enjoy this Saturday’s Chinese New Year Festival and Parade. Wave hello to Grand Marshal Awkwafina for me!
Much love and many thanks for reading tablehopper all these years! 🥂
XOXO
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Raise Your Wine Glass to the Return of Lorella and Massimo with Binu Bonu!
After selling and stepping away from their deeply adored La Ciccia in April 2022, after 16 years in business, original owners Lorella Degan and Massimiliano Conti took some much-needed time off for their health and to visit family and regroup. Well, I guess they like us, they like us, because the Sardinian duo is back! (I knew they couldn’t stay away from us for too long.) The couple has found a space to open Binu Bonu, a wine bar and shop in West Portal (the name is Sardinian dialect for “good wine”).
It’s tiny, with no kitchen, so don’t fantasize too much about plates of Massimo’s cooking, but you can definitely get excited for his next-level taste and deep connections in Italian wine (their dense list at La Ciccia crammed on the back of the menu in something like 8 pt. was truly a wonder). The list at Binu Bonu will highlight mostly Italian wines, with a few other regions, but the main demarcation is that they will be “ethical” wines, which Massimo explains as wines from small farmers, with sustainable practices, and who are good people. They’ll carry producers like La Stoppa, Alessandro Viola, Fattoria San Lorenzo, Principano, Zidarich, Barbacan, and many others who promote sustainable and eco-friendly agriculture. You’ll also be able to grab a bottle to take home from their retail shop shelves—they’re still working out the details of pricing for corkage if you want to buy a bottle and open it on-site.
There will be snacks, including well-sourced cheeses and salumi and olives, with some surprises later. They’re opening in the Que Syrah space (which is still open until the end of March), and is located just across the street from the newly opened Elena’s. Lorella and Massimo get the keys April 1st, and hope to open by the end of April. They can’t wait to see everyone (but really, I don’t know who has missed who more). I’ll keep you posted on the opening. 230 W. Portal Ave. at 14th Ave.
It Smells Like Smoky Pork Sugo: Anthony Strong’s Pasta Supply Co Is Expanding to the Mission
I’ve been bugging Anthony Strong of the Inner Richmond’s popular Pasta Supply Co for months about when I could write about his upcoming Mission location, and that day has finally arrived. While having some justified PTSD about opening a business again in the Mission (his last was Prairie, which the pandemic thrashed), the pasta extruder just can’t be stopped.
Due to open in the former Dumpling Club commissary in early April will be a second location of Pasta Supply Co, with almost double the space (2,300 square feet) and 24 seats. It will be the same mixed retail and dine-in setup as the mothership, but a bit darker, with “sexed-up deli vibes” (think: Roscioli in Rome, and Anthony’s early Cibi Cotti pop-ups at Local Mission Market). He’s doing the design and buildout himself (again), and will be using walnut butcher blocks for the tables.
One difference with the menu is thanks to the improved kitchen setup...
This location will continue the same format (no reservations, walk-in only, order at the door before you’re seated), with the same affordable pricing and cool wines sold at three-quarters of the usual restaurant markup.
Since there’s more space, he’s going to be able to offer weekend pasta classes on the regular for 6–8 folks (you’ll learn and take home 12–15 shapes), perfect for team building or birthdays. Which is why you should jump over to his upcoming Kickstarter as soon as it goes live, since he’s going to offer a limited drop of these classes (and you’ll be able to help him get this whole thing going and off to the races). I’ll keep you posted on timing and additional details soon. 3233 22nd St. at Bartlett.
A New Format and Exciting Changes at Osito
After being open for just over two years, Osito’s chef-owner Seth Stowaway has been making some changes at the fine-dining restaurant. Known for its tasting menu featuring dishes prepared on the live-fire hearth, with 24 guests seated at a handmade, 19-foot table, he has completely redesigned the dining room, which now offers 30 seats at a number of two-tops, plus some larger round tables for groups (the long table has been put into storage for now). Guests will be able to pre-book the $215 tasting menu, or reserve a table (or walk in!) for the new à la carte menu.
Back in January, I reported on the Bar at Osito, a new concept that took over Osito’s former and adjoining Liliana bar space, offering fondues and a raw bar. But Stowaway says the two rooms felt like two split parts of himself, and he wanted them to be together. He was hearing from guests that they couldn’t always pony up for Osito’s tasting menu, and some folks would never be able to experience the dining room, so that was additionally weighing on him.
He decided to quickly close Bar at Osito (first reported in Eater) and look for a new subtenant for the space, and absorb many of the new dishes they developed and relaunch the à la carte format in the main dining room.
You’ll see oysters, a Gulf shrimp cocktail, some selections from the larder, and a couple small and four large plates—including a raclette fondue—so you can still go check that cheesy situation out, as well as smoked New York strip, and claypot rice with squid, shrimp, fried garlic, and chili butter. A bar has been set up near the kitchen, right by guests, so you can also enjoy cocktails and special spirits, including some new brandies from Charles Neal Selections.
Stowaway’s thrilled with the vibe in the room, and says, “It feels like freedom.” I told him I applaud his decision to make big changes, and how he kept making them until things felt right. Stowaway adds: “Be like water. Be buoyant.” Indeed—especially during these challenging times to own a restaurant. If you have been curious about Osito’s deeply thought-out cuisine and woodsy-chic style, now’s the time to check it out. Open Tue–Sat 5:30pm–9pm. 2875 18th St. at Florida.
More Snazzy Restaurant Updates and Moves
Komaaj’s new mazze-wine bar and dining room. Photos courtesy of Komaaj.
Wow! Lookin’ so good! Komaaj in La Lengua (in the Mission/Bernal Heights) has launched their new mazze-wine bar and main dining room, offering a mazze menu paired with wines that are primarily focused on the Caucasus region, including Georgia and Armenia. Chef Hanif Sadr’s Northern Iranian dishes (mostly new, plus some favorites) are now available for dinner at the wine bar and in the new dining room, from his dips (plus a rasht mazze platter for four) to pomegranate rice and chicken. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm, while lunch in their casual pila bazaar is Tue–Sat 11:30am–4pm and Sun 11:30am–3pm. 20 29th St. at Mission.
Coming Soon: Rasa Rasa Kitchen, Lunette, and Hed 11: Brunch/Tasting Menu
Thanks to Instagram tipster Alisha, I learned about the upcoming Rasa Rasa Kitchen, opening in the former Rhea’s Cafe on Bryant in the Mission. It’s going to be the first brick-and-mortar location from the Rasa Rasa food truck, known for serving Southeast Asian (primarily Indonesian) dishes with “a Californian ‘tweak’ to suit the American taste.” Business partners Joe Sutikno-Sharp and Peggy Tang launched the food truck on March 5th, 2020, and now (exactly) four years later, they’re opening their 30-seat restaurant on March 5th, 2024.
R2K’s menu will diverge a bit from the truck’s, focusing on family-style dishes. The menu will include beef rendang (spiced beef stew cooked in slow heat with coconut milk, served over rice with curry jackfruit, sautéed green, egg, and crackers), turmeric fried chicken, chicken satay, balado, bubur yam, pork rica rica, Javanese fried rice, chicken noodle soup, fried fish, and pempek fish cake. They are known for offering many vegan dishes as well, like gado gado (mixed steamed and fresh vegetables, with fried tofu, tempeh, and crackers, topped with peanut sauce).
Hours will be six days a week (TBD which day they will close), open from 11am–3pm and 5pm–9pm (they will open at 10am on their opening day). 2200 Bryant St. at 20th St.
Chef Nite Yun (Nyum Bai) is opening Lunette, a casual noodle bar with rice plates and other Cambodian street food–inspired dishes in the former Prather Ranch Meat Co. at the Ferry Building Marketplace this spring. [Via Chronicle]
An upscale Thai restaurant will be coming to the former Mums space in the Kimpton Hotel Enso in Japantown: Hed 11: Brunch/Tasting Menu, from chef-owner Naruephon “Billie” Wannajaro of hed verythai in the Financial District. While hed verythai is known for their affordable and tasty lunch sets (you can read my post about them in The Hopper Notebook), this new location will have chef Piriya “Saint” Boonprasan from Bangkok’s Michelin-starred Saawaan in place, offering brunch, lunch, and an 11-course tasting menu for dinner. Look for an April opening. 1800 Sutter St. at Buchanan. [Via Eater]
Hummus Bodega Has Closed
After closing their Sixth Street location (which was part of Frena Bakery), it looks like Hummus Bodega sadly closed their Geary Street location this past Sunday February 18th. Regulars loved their fluffy pita and hummus and falafel plates (I dug their pita Tel Aviv). But, it sounds like they’re trying to find a new owner for the business, so hopefully it will return. 5549 Geary Blvd. at 20th Ave.
New Menus, Service Updates, and New Brunch!
The Vault Garden has launched Saturday brunch service (11:30am–3pm) in their light-filled outdoor dining space. Chef Ryan Cerizo’s new menu includes selections from their raw bar (shellfish, caviar, and oysters), the potato pavé tots with a dollop of hackleback caviar, ginger sugar–dusted beignets, pancakes and seasonal waffles, a salmon Benedict, steak and eggs, and the Vault burger. Choose from a selection of Garden Cocktails, local draft beer, ciders, and wines. And here’s a hot hopper parking tip for you: [subscribe and find out]! Sweet! 555 California St. at Kearny.
The newly opened The Rabbit Hole in Bernal just launched Sunday brunch (11am–3pm), with fried chicken and mochi waffles, a breakfast smashed burger, and a killer-sounding Bloody Mary from Simone Mims. The back patio should be opening in a couple weeks, FYI. 3472 Mission St. at Cortland.
New Fare for Our Friends in Santa Rosa
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Culinary power couple Mark and Terri Stark (known for Healdsburg and Santa Rosa restaurants like Stark's Steak and Seafood, Grossman's Noshery & Bar, and Bird & The Bottle) have introduced a new addition to their portfolio. Quietly opened in the Portofino building in October 2023, Augie’s French is an homage to Auguste Escoffier and the eighth and final venture for the Starks’ group Stark Reality Restaurants.
The classic bistro menu offers traditional French fare like beef cheek bourguignon (classic garni, pommes purée; $38); onion soup grantinée (Gruyère, Calvados; $18); and escargots with flavored butters (guests can choose from garlic, black truffle, Boursin, or Buffalo for $18, or try out the snails toast served with “Ants on a Log” glazed marrowbone; $28). Daily specials showcase dishes like crispy sweetbreads and frog’s legs for the more adventurous diner. There’s also grilled boudin blanc, mussels and frites, steak frites, and a prime burger royale.
The bar—which specializes in classic French aperitifs and cocktails, and boasts a wine list of exclusively French selections—also offers a limited food and happy hour menu, including house-cured jambon tartines ($6), pigs-in-a-blanket ($7), and a croque madame (toasted sourdough, jambon, Comté cheese, mornay, sunnyside egg; $21).
Augie’s is open Wed–Sun 3pm–9pm, with happy hour from 3pm–5pm, and dinner service 5pm–9pm. 535 4th St., Santa Rosa.
Also in Santa Rosa: chef Eric Huang of Pecking House in Brooklyn is bringing his famous Sichuan chili fried chicken (if you follow @tablehopper on Instagram, you already know how Marcia feels about this chicken) to the Flamingo Resort and Spa, now through February 29th. Chef Huang also just launched his brand-new fried chicken and waffles set, so this is the first time anyone on the West Coast will have the chance to try them. Reservations can be made via OpenTable, and takeaway orders can be made here.
the sugar mama
Giveaway: Enter to Win Two VIP Early-Entry Tickets and More to the California Artisan Cheese Festival!
Tickets are now on sale now for California’s premier cheese festival, the 18th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival, March 22nd–24th, 2024. Make a weekend of it with three days of cheese-centric events, including limited seating pairing seminars with cheese pros, a Cheese Crawl at The Barlow, and the grand finale Artisan Cheese Tasting and Marketplace on Sunday the 24th at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa.
The three-day Festival brings together California’s premier cheesemakers and offers cheese enthusiasts of all experience levels an unparalleled opportunity to taste and purchase new, limited production, and rare artisan cheeses, as well as meet with and sample products from Bay Area farmers, chefs, brewers, winemakers, distillers, and artisan food purveyors.
To enter to win tickets, all you need to do is visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram! One lucky winner will get two early-entry VIP Marketplace tickets (which includes bubbles 🥂) and two tickets to a seminar.
The winner will be announced on Monday February 26th (at 11am PT), so don’t delay! Retail value: $330.
the lush
Black Is the New Black at the LINE’s Latest Venture
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Tucked away in the street-level lobby of the Theater District’s urban-chic LINE hotel is the newest concept from collaborators Danny Louie and Joe Hou: Dark Bar. Acting as the yin to the property’s rooftop bar and solarium Rise Over Run’s yang, Dark Bar is a moody yet elegant nod to the City’s Asian heritage and cuisine.
The décor is simplistic, relying on lighting and geometric furnishings to frame the space, and the aesthetic holds true to the name—it is, in fact, quite dark. From the black glass shelving behind the bar, to the black wave-shaped banquettes, to the embossed black leather menu covers, Dark Bar really does evoke the cool, nocturnal energy of yin.
Chef Hou plans on a seasonal rotation of bar bites that emphasize fresh and house-fermented ingredients. The inaugural menu includes contemporary takes on an array of classic dishes, eclectic in origin, but rooted in Pan-Asian tradition. There’s the Veggie Wellington ($14), with celery root, walnut miso, and Swiss chard wrapped in flaky pastry; the Pho Pork Dip sandwich ($18), featuring cumin pork belly, jardiniere, and horseradish inside of a bolillo roll, accompanied by a cup of pho broth for dipping; Salt & Pepper Brassicas ($16), served with a cashew cream that’s both mild and tangy, and balanced out with a dollop of pickled jalepeño relish that provides heat and the bright hit of acid that appears throughout the menu, highlighting the team’s commitment to fermentation; and fried Firecracker Quail wings ($15), stuffed with chicken and dried cherries, presented with house-fermented sambal.
There’s currently only one dessert option, but it happens to be a good one: rum-soaked baba cake with pears that’s sweet, syrupy, and finishes with a slight vinegar flavor, sitting next to piles of salted Chantilly cream, creating an expertly composed mashup of taste sensations.
Danny Louie’s cocktail selection features high-concept concoctions that bring the bar’s theme and intentions together with drinks like Levitation (Southeast Asian rum, pandan, green Szechuan pepper, concord grape, ume balsamic vinegar, citrus; $16)—which is garnished with fizzy grapes; the spicy, herb-forward Karma (Japanese whisky, green apple shrub, aloe, dill-fortified wine, coconut, Japanese mustard; $16)—which is definitely an “If You’re Into that Sort of Thing” option, a perfect libation for those who love horseradish-heavy Bloody Marys and dirty gin Martinis; and Superstition (Japanese gin, strawberry, rau ram—Vietnamese coriander—osmanthus, pamplemousse, junmai sake, sesame, citrus; $16), giving fruits, florals, and a surprisingly welcome nutty finish.
There are also handcrafted highballs named for the seasons in Japanese: Aki, meaning autumn (Japanese whisky, green apple, celery, lemon, apple cider; $17); Haru, meaning spring (East Asian whisky, kiwi, Asian pear, honey; $16); and Natsu, meaning summer (ume whisky, long pepper, lemon; $17). An extensive spirits list comprises the bulk of the menu, with a heavy emphasis on Japanese whiskies and gins, a fun selection of Asian beers (including Korean dragon fruit blond and kimchi sour ales, each $12/pint), and glasses of wine from California, Europe, South America, and Africa.
This past Saturday, the bar hosted a grand-opening celebration, complete with a fortune teller, red envelopes holding good luck coins, and the customary Lion Dance to bless and bring good luck to the space. The whole affair was quite auspicious and we’re looking forward to seeing how the seasons change and what Joe and Danny come up with next. Dark Bar is open Thu–Sat 7pm–12am. 970 Market St. at Turk.
the starlet
They might be Giants!
