what’s cookin’
Ciao, hopper pals. I know many of you are in a flurry of activity to get ready to head to the playa, good luck with all of that! I’m hoping to drive up to Lake Tahoe (finally) this coming weekend, but first, I need my dear Fortuna kitty to get better from her current FIC flareup so we can hit the road. (Poor baby girl, today has not been a good one. We are quite the pair over here, I swear to goddess.) Tahoe is having a bit of a cold snap this Thursday through Saturday, so at least it’s not 80 degrees and I’m missing out on my daily dips in the lake. Fall needs to stay away, it is not her time yet!
I’m just glad I finally tested negative on Friday (eight days later, what the hell, La Puta Rona!) and was able to enjoy the SF Pizza Bagel Beer Fest this past Saturday! What a fun scene! The sun was out, the pizza dough was flying, the beer taps were flowing, and I was so happy to be back out in the mix. Check out my @tablehopper recap reel on Instagram, and guess who made the lead image (with my wingman) for The Bold Italic’s story? 😎 Cheers! Thanks to everyone who worked so hard on and was part of this over-the-top event, and I look forward to hearing how much it raised for charity.
Speaking of pizza, I heard back from the apizza folks who I mentioned last week are opening a new location on Divisadero, and it ends up last week’s hoped-for opening date has been pushed to...
We also need to help some adored SF pizza folks out. I learned The Pizza Place on Noriega just got hit with an insane rent increase from their landlord (try 83 percent, are you friggin’ kidding me?) and with less than a month’s notice. This Outer Sunset neighborhood pizzeria has been chugging along through many ups and downs since 2007, and owners Cindy and Kevin need our help to get through this major curveball: please support and amplify their GoFundMe. An update says, “They are working with a lawyer and Commercial Lease Negotiator (through the city of SF) to help with the lease negotiation process.” In the meantime, go get one of their awesome pizzas, pick up some of their frozen pizzas to bring home (I love the Greek), and throw some money and love their way.
And now, a quick movie reco. While I was home taking care of Tuna this weekend, I finally watched The Holdovers (on Prime), and wow, that film was so much more than I anticipated it was going to be. Sensitive, deep, and so bittersweet. I love being immersed in a film that commands your full attention and helps you take a mental break from your own life. (Thanks, I needed that.)
It’s not like I want you to stay home—my job is actually to inspire you to go out—but I’ve had a few friends send me this online video event happening next Thursday August 29th (5pm PT): Cooking for Kamala. Chefs from around the world (including Nancy Silverton, Chris Bianco, and our own Nancy Oakes) will be cooking some of Kamala’s favorite recipes (live!), as well as recipes of their own. The list of guest chefs and personalities keeps getting bigger (hello, Ruth Reichl!). Sign up here (it’s free, but of course you can make a contribution to the Kamala Harris for President campaign here)!
As for going out, I have a bunch of pop-ups and treats featured in today’s column, as well as a recap of all the Mission locations included in the tablehopper video on my website by New Chapter Creative Studio, so go have some fun in the sun!
Yours,
~Marcia
the chatterbox
Another Exciting Tenant Is Coming to the Ferry Building Marketplace
After last week’s update about Nopa Fish, there’s even more Ferry Building Marketplace news: owners Kelly Kozak and Josh Donald of Bernal Cutlery in the Mission are thrilled to be opening a new and second location in Suite 26 this fall (currently the home of The Gardener, which will be closing this location after more than 20 years in the Ferry Building on Sunday September 22nd).
Donald of Bernal Cutlery says, “It feels like a natural fit for us and enables us to expand our reach beyond the Mission District to folks in the East and North Bay, as well as visitors exploring SF.” Their Ferry Building location will be a curated version of the Valencia store, highlighting their exclusive and best sellers: Japanese, French, German, Catalonian, English, and American kitchen knives; vintage culinary knives; cookware; select kitchen tools; sharpening supplies; as well as traditional and regional-style pocket knives. The space will be designed by Sebastian Lane, and San Francisco-based artist David Benzler will hand-paint the sign for the new location. Lookin’ sharp!
A New Location of Limoncello Is Coming to Civic Center Plaza
Back in October 2018, I remember going to the opening of the Bi-Rite Cafe at Civic Center, and now, six years and a pandemic later, there’s a new tenant for the spacious corner kiosk and café: Limoncello! I’m a big fan of Limoncello’s well-crafted deli sandwiches, and they are also known and loved for their stocked deli case, hot foods like lasagna, pizzas, and their gourmet market—they currently have two locations: their flagship at 1400 Sutter Street, and in the Mission at 2862 24th Street.
For this third location, owner Jalal Heydari tells me they will serve coffee drinks (Lavazza), deli sandwiches, salads, and pizza to start, and will ramp up to offer some breakfast items in time. (Workers at City Hall should be stoked.) Heydari is also excited that Limoncello has recently been ranked The Highest-Rated Deli in SF (according to Yelp), with a well-deserved 4.8 rating.
Once Limoncello’s ABC application is approved, they will also serve beer and wine at this new location. There’s a spacious outdoor patio, with tables and chairs for up to 70, so you can hang out for lunch, or grab a glass of wine and a bite after going to the San Francisco Public Library and Asian Art Museum. The plan is to open on October 1st—follow @limoncellosf for updates. Hours will be Mon–Sat 8am–6pm. 52 Grove St. at Larkin.
The Nosh Box Is Soft-Opening in SoMa This Week
I’ve been keeping you updated on the progress of The Nosh Box in SoMa—from Stephen Wade and his partner, Edwin Stoodley—and they’re soft-opening this weekend! Come by Friday August 23rd or Saturday the 24th from 7am–3pm for “coffee & libations, baked goods, and light seasonally-driven fare.” Stephen tells me: “This weekend will really highlight that the food was built to go well with coffee.” They’re getting their coffee from Chromatic Coffee in San Jose, and he adds, “Whether it’s the raspberry-candied grapefruit scone or the cacio e pepe scone, you’re gonna find they hug each other gorgeously. Some savory suprises too (heirloom tomato sandwiches with shiso mayo will be back!).” I’m here for all of it!
Since they won’t be able to attend TTITD (That Thing in the Desert), they’re hosting a Man Burn on Saturday the 31st (5pm–10pm), and they officially open on Tuesday September 3rd. Sparkling wines and vermouth cocktails will be coming soon. I’ll have more for you on their full offering and regular hours soon—first, I plan to swing by this weekend and check it out! (The space was previously SLUTS wine bar and Terroir.) 1116 Folsom St. at 7th St.
Mission Locations Featured in the Latest tablehopper Video from New Chapter
A couple months ago, I mentioned there’s a new tablehopper video on my homepage from New Chapter Creative Studio! When I relaunched tablehopper back in February 2023, the website video featured me traipsing around North Beach and Chinatown, and for this latest one, I’m meeting up with friends all over the Mission!
I promised to do a post about all the locations featured in the video, which are some of my favorite Mission spots (and what I like to order!), so let’s do it.
But first, let me share how wonderful it was to work with Saul Santell and Jeff Pizzo at New Chapter Creative Studio, a San Francisco video production company! They really cared about showcasing the craft and people behind everything we were shooting, as well as capturing the special vibe at each place, and on the street! If you’re a restaurant or bar or brand with a story to tell, you should reach out to New Chapter. Such thoughtful, quality work!
Tablehopping in the Mission with New Chapter
We started our shoot at one of my most-adored places in San Francisco, SanJalisco Mexican Restaurant. The Padilla-Reyes family has been running this cheerful corner restaurant since 1988, and it’s fantastic for breakfast and brunch (served all day!). Their chilaquiles are made from their housemade tortillas, and the chilaquiles Veronica, a personal fave, includes chorizo and nopales. Their platos are downright massive—whether you’re getting enchiladas, chile rellenos, or chile verde—served with creamy beans, Mexican rice, and a basket of their superlative, tender, fluffy tortillas. I also love their weekly specials, like my obsession dish: their goat birria en caldo, served Fridays and Saturdays only. Everything has that special homemade touch, because it is. 901 S Van Ness Ave. at 20th St.
I was so excited to take the New Chapter guys to Al Carajo! on our initial scouting tour. I wrote up this Mission jewel in the first Hopper Notebook, a teeny-tiny Mayan restaurant from chef-owner Javier León that has some of the most bangin’ food—it proves that nice people make the best-tasting food. From the huevos motuleños and monster torta de chilaquiles for breakfast, to the Valencia fish tacos and al pastor negro tacos (the pork is marinated in recado negro) for lunch, everything is spot-on and made with care. And now you can enjoy a cerveza with your ceviche and panucho while the sunlight streams in through the big open windows. 3224 1/2 22nd St. at Bartlett.
I’m so grateful our video isn’t an in memoriam for Beloved Cafe, which was just on the brink of closing, until two longtime workers (and sisters!) said they wanted to buy the business and keep it open (please help them!). This tiny slip of a space has pure rootsy SF character, from the beautifully carved, live-edge wood bar to the hanging plants, cabinets, and all the canisters of teas and herbs on the wall.
The place always smells amazing—thanks to all the fruit and vegetable smoothies and juices they make all day (the Everyday Greens smoothie gives me LIFE)—and their plant-based bowls, salads, wraps, and desserts are so fresh and nourishing. Come in for a tonic or golden milk when you need an immunity boost, and give yourself the time to sip and enjoy it in their magical space. Bring home a bag of their Golden Milk Latte powder, a staple in my pantry. 3338 24th St. at Bartlett.
It was time for a drink, and some of the most creative and culinary cocktails in the City are poured at the bar at Loló, thanks to Leon Vasquez and his outstanding team! I have been in love with owners Jorge Martínez and Lorena Zertuche since Loló’s early days (2007!) on 22nd Street, and am thrilled to see the smile of partner Juan Carlos “JC” Ruelas whenever I walk into the forever-upbeat and wildly colorful dining room. This is such a happy place.
I always go to town on their tacos (the tuna tacon, fried avocado, and taco tropical are classics for a reason) and I tuck into their carnitas if I have a wingman. This is one of my top spots to bring out-of-towners, it’s always a fun SF scene. 974 Valencia St. at 21st St.
Many of us have tiny city apartments, so we can’t really host a bunch of folks over for drinks, but thankfully, there’s 20 Spot, which always feels like your cool friend’s house party! And then there are inspired small plates (and a couple large ones) from chef Alejandro Rodriguez (previously Nopa) that are always peak season and pure California. Co-owner Bodhi Freedom (with co-owner Peter Goggin) is like my dealer of Paul Dethune Champagne, I can never pass up a glass (or two) when I’m there. The wine list is dialed and a delight to explore, matched by the choice soundtrack, provided by their excellent vinyl collection (they were doing this from day one), and they even installed a bass tube in the bar. Feel the bass, baby. The Mid-Century style and low light make 20 Spot the perfect date spot and neighborhood hangout. Vibes! Since 2013! 3565 20th St. at Lexington.
Dive bars are an endangered species, but I don’t worry too much about POP’S Bar, because bar owners Michael “Spike” Krouse and Tom Tierney know the special sauce: strong drinks that are well-made but not expensive (hello, pint glasses), a varied and friendly mix of regulars (the same can be said for the bartenders), and kick-ass music (their calendar is always packed). It’s a true neighborhood bar and Legacy Business, with deep history (and dogs!), and I love seeing their recently updated neon sign shine brightly like the nightcap beacon I love it for being (“Hey, let’s have just one more!”). You don’t just walk out of POP’S—you will likely stumble a little. 2800 24th St. at York.
Many thanks to New Chapter for documenting one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world with me, and the wonderful, talented, and fun people who make it so! ¡Viva la Mission! And mil gracias to all my cute friends who met up with us for cameos at various stops in our shoot!
Here’s more about New Chapter, a San Francisco video production company:
At New Chapter, we elevate brands and stories through collaborative visual storytelling, producing high-quality video and photography content for branding, advertising, marketing, documentaries, testimonials, case studies, and events. New Chapter is proud to serve a diverse clientele, including large and small businesses, start-ups, technology companies, non-profits, foundations, and value-driven organizations. (Check out our latest work for Bi-Rite’s 18 Reasons!) Every project we undertake is a dynamic partnership with our clients, from concept to execution and strategic release.
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee in the Castro
Just this past Friday, Fisch & Flore in the Castro launched their new Coffee Corner, offering full coffee service, tea, and breakfast pastries from their new counter. Come by Wed–Sun 9am–4pm, and you can order coffee drinks featuring Oakland’s award-winning Flower Child Coffee, including a drip coffee, cappuccino, cortado, espresso tonic, or iced coffee. There’s also tea service from local Song Tea, and pastries from Poesia Café, Jane the Bakery, and Neighbor Bakehouse. Order at the counter, and then find a seat at their sidewalk tables, and enjoy some excellent people-watching. 2298 Market St. at Noe.
Creative SF Pop-Ups in Full Effect
Also on Sunday August 25th: Top Chef 19 contestant Monique Lopez Feybesse, and her life and business partner, Paul Feybesse, will cohost Stories from Home, an intimate French-Filipino pop-up chef’s dinner at Merkado in SoMa. This event will offer a preview of the Feybesses’ upcoming brick-and-mortar concept: Tarts de Feybesse, opening in Oakland in September. Tickets for four courses ($85) are available via Resy, where you can check out the menu (and pssst, I’d strongly consider the supplemental salmon en croute course—just look at it!). 130 Townsend St. at 2nd St.
Sister, Mother, Crone is back for a second season at The Midway from trans chef Ollie Walleck, and hey, great timing, the state of California is celebrating its first official Transgender History Month. The immersive pop-up has a new menu, with a live DJ, projections, local art, cocktails, and more. Sister, Mother, Crone is held on select weekends through November; available dates are posted on Resy. 900 Marin St. at Michigan.
If you’re around Labor Day weekend, then you don’t want to miss Juanita MORE!’s Fried Chicken Brunch & Drag Show on Saturday August 31st at 620 Jones, with performances by Dulce De Leche, Jota Mercury, and Rahni NothingMore. The JM! Fried Chicken brunch will be available as a prix-fixe menu ($38), which includes Juanita’s fried chicken (drumstick and thigh) with honey goo, coleslaw, and cornbread; and for dessert, Juanita’s carrot cake with brown sugar frosting and pecans. (There will also be a Jones brunch menu that will include vegetarian options and seasonal specialties with locally sourced ingredients.) Two seatings: 12pm and 1:30pm. Enjoy some cocktails, the sunny patio, fried chicken, and drag! 620 Jones St. at Geary.
Cheeky Peach!
Fikscue to Open SF Location Next Year
by Savannah Leone Bundy
Alameda-based, Indonesian-Texas barbecue joint Fikscue (pronounced “fix-cue”) by husband-and-wife duo Fik and Reka Saleh just announced the upcoming opening of a new outpost in SF. Thrive City (the retail, dining, and entertainment destination surrounding Chase Center) will be home to Fikscue’s popular Indo-Tex dishes—think smoked brisket rendang and Soto Padang noodle soup (fried smoked brisket, glass noodles, potato fritter, sambal, garnishes)—with indoor seating, outdoor seating (shared with Harmonic Brewing), and grab ’n’ go options.
The official opening date and hours have yet to be announced, but early 2025 is the current timeline.
Shakewell in Oakland Is Closing After 10 Years
Over the weekend, Shakewell in Oakland announced their upcoming closure in a farewell note on Instagram, after 10 years of serving paella, tapas, and cocktails on Lakeshore (it was originally opened by chef Jen Biesty and Tim Nugent, who transferred ownership a year ago). Shakewell has booked some upcoming musical entertainment during their closing week, to end things on a high note. Their last night of service is August 31st. 3407 Lakeshore Ave. at Longridge, Oakland.
the sponsor
A Love Letter to Mr. Espresso (A Steady in the Hopper’s Hopper at Home for 25 Years)
I’ve been enjoying Mr. Espresso oak-wood roasted Neapolitan Espresso for 25 years—I remember driving to Oakland with my boyfriend to pick up an oversized wholesale bag with the winking mascot since they didn’t sell bags in SF (we’d sometimes beg a café in the Lower Haight to sell us a pound or whatever they could spare).
All the way back in 2008, I was thrilled to take my first tour of their Oakland facility with founder Carlo Di Ruocco (he’s on the Vespa on the updated design of the bag below!), and learned about their oak-wood roasting process, sourcing, and met members of this multi-generational, family-run business that has been roasting for 45-plus years.
Since living in Italy when I was 20, all I drink is espresso. I have traveled all over Italy for many years, and Mr. Espresso’s Neapolitan Espresso reminds me of the espresso I would enjoy while visiting family in Southern Italy: just dark enough, chocolatey-creamy, with balanced bitterness. This medium-dark roast helped me make it through the acidic third-wave in our city—when you could barely find an Italian-style shot anywhere—and has always been on steady rotation in my grinder’s hopper at home.
So, when Carlo’s son, Luigi, reached out and asked if I would be open to being a Mr. Espresso brand ambassador, there was nothing but enthusiasm over here! I now get to enjoy pulling shots of their espresso on my fabulous, gleaming, Rocket Appartamento machine that they just trained me on, and now I’m experimenting on some custom creations—look for recipes from me and more in coming months!
