what’s cookin’
Howdy, friends. I’m back in your inbox after a much-needed holiday break, if you can call it that! It was a wonderful whirlwind of holiday gatherings, family time, hosting dinners and cocktail parties, and having a smashing New Year’s Eve at the Phoenix Hotel for a third year with my party posse (we all stay overnight in our block of rooms, what a blast).
Besides catching up on life and unpacking boxes and reading emails and articles and writing these past couple weeks, I loved taking the time to watch some movies and documentaries, including 100 Years of Solitude, Maria (and the much more engrossing documentaries Callas and Maria by Callas on Prime), Queer (you can still catch it at The Roxie, don’t miss the experience of seeing this film on the big screen), and, best of all, The Disappearance of Shere Hite, a must-watch documentary about the trailblazing feminist and fierce force behind the groundbreaking The Hite Report in 1976 (catch it on Kanopy and Hulu), seriously wow.
Big thanks to all our industry friends for taking care of us through the holidays. I hope they get to enjoy a break as well—a bunch of restaurants close during this time to catch their breath and refresh, so make sure they’re open before you head over. January is a slow month for the industry—go out for dinner or grab some lunch from your favorite neighborhood spots if you can. The weather is going to be gorgeous for the next week, so get out there!
I know a bunch of folks are trying on some New Year’s resolutions right now (if you’re partaking in Dry January, don’t miss my post in the lush this week), and I occasionally make my own, although I like to make sure they’re fun and the kind of resolutions I want to keep. One year, I resolved to host people over at my place for a meal once a month—it was fantastic, because I got to have quality time with friends, try out some recipes, and it forces you to keep your place clean since you’re hosting every month.
This year, I’m resolving to read an actual book for one hour every week. It’s such a shame how rarely I make time to read books these days—I consume so much online content and stories and articles that there doesn’t feel like I have any time left to read offline. I always save up my book reading time for my Tahoe summers, but I need more. Reading before bed during the week will be impossible—I may need to designate my reading time for the weekend. Maybe lazy Sunday mornings in bed? Yeah, I like the sound of that. I know Fortuna will approve of more lap time.
Our local Dungeness crab season is finally here, and I can’t wait to order crab Louie and cioppino at Sam’s Grill, and a visit to Scoma’s is always a good call. Psssst, keep your eyes peeled for an upcoming crab dinner on January 22nd at Popi’s Oysterette. Cracked crab and Champagne at home with buttery garlicky noodles is another annual tradition for me. Release the Dungies!
If you’ve been a longtime tablehopper subscriber (love youuu), then you know another tradition over here is my annual the bore piece, a roundup of 10 things I don’t want to see in the culinary world in the new year. I usually like to keep things positive over here, especially since the restaurant industry is absolutely brutal right now, but I’ve been writing this list of gripes (“the airing of grievances,” ha-ha!) since 2007. Let’s see, that’s 18 years, so there’s no stopping now.
This week’s column also includes a number of catch-up stories and news that happened over the holiday, although I won’t be writing about the dust-up between chef Geoffrey Lee (formerly Ju-Ni, Hamburger Project) and influencer Kathleen Ensign since it has been covered to death. I also have a fabulous giveaway for you in the sugar mama to start the year off right.
I’m looking forward to another fantastic year with you—may my column offer you a break from the world news headlines with some moments of pleasure and delicious discoveries. (Although what is happening in LA right now is beyond horrific, my heart is so heavy. I am in awe of the firefighters and reporters doing truly heroic work. Sending love to my friends down there, to everyone—I hope you and yours are safe.)
Take good care.
~Marcia
the bore
In 2025, There’s No Need to Keep These Things Alive
Since 2007, I’ve been writing the bore, my annual bitchfest about played-out trends or annoying things I don’t want to see in restaurants or bars in the new year. I also include some gripes about bad diner behavior and content creators, since we’re all in this ecosystem together, for better and for worse. I usually keep things positive over here, but it’s my yearly excuse to be salty, so let’s do this.
1. Shitty caviar service. I already called out caviar on errrrrything, and while I’m happy for restaurants to be able to have this hawt little moneymaker on their menus, we need to have some basic elements of proper caviar service if you’re going to sell the cocaine of food: abalone or other non-reactive spoons (what’s up with the metal spoons you just served us?), something to keep the caviar chilled (but keep the melting ice from getting into the tin, yo!), and a couple cute accompaniments—cold, pasty blini aren’t it.
2. Ubiquitous Caesar salads. I fricking love Caesar salads, but do we need to see them on every menu? (And come on, where are the anchovies?) I know, you’re doing some fun twist on it, and unless you’re Rose Pizzeria with their stupid-delicious spicy Calabrian chile and miso dressing, please, don’t fuck with perfection. It’s time for a new salad! Dazzle us!
3. Smash burgers. I almost called out smash burgers back in 2021, but they slowed their roll. Alas, they’re back with a vengeance, and I have some beef with ’em! While it’s a style of burger I enjoy when I want something greasy or decadent, and some folks do a smashing job with them, I need to stop seeing it as the sole burger style on so many restaurant menus. Long live a juicy beef patty.
(While I’m at it, why can’t we have more of our local steakhouses offer a badass, prime, dry-aged burger, like Peter Luger in New York? I was discussing this with a tablehopper subscriber, and I would just die if Harris’ started serving an off-menu, late-night burger at the bar, or next door.)
4. Signature dishes. Did you really just ask a restaurant that has been open for a week what their signature dish is? The place just opened. Everyone needs to calm down. Give chef time to spring some new dishes on us over the next few months and then let everyone decide what rocks.
5. One-hit-wonder dining. Folks, unless a restaurant is known for serving ONE thing (pizza, smash burgers, quesabirrias), it’s time to start thinking about becoming a repeat customer at places and trying other things on the menu. Did you like your first experience? Great. Instead of posting for the ’gram (“I went there and had the signature dish, check, look at meeee!”) and moving on to the next new opening you spotted on TikTok, what about returning to a spot you liked? In order for restaurants to stick around and have a sustainable business model for more than eight months, they’re going to need to see you again. The more we treat restaurants like fast fashion, the faster they’re going to leave us.
6. “It did not disappoint!” Perhaps I used this cringe phrase in the beginning of my food writing days, but can everyone please stop with: “I went to this new blabbity blah and it did not disappoint!” I see it daily, everywhere. Instead, how about: “This place was a blast!” Or: “The fries are all that!” Or maybe: “The hype is real!” Saying something didn’t disappoint is so tepid, and such a back-handed compliment. It’s like you expected it to suck. What’s wrong with some enthusiasm?
7. Same goes for: “You can’t go wrong with…” Actually, you can. Basta.
8. Tiny-ass fonts. OK, restaurants, thanks to many of you for retiring QR code menus (that was on my 2023 bore list), but now that we’re getting back to printed menus, enough with the minuscule fonts—menus have become impossible to read. Did you really use a seven-point serif font in a soft grey on vellum paper and expect me to read it? Go ahead, call me an old lady—I may have some readers in my purse, but I will still close the club hours after you went home, so shut it. Maybe your designer should sit in your dark dining room after a couple drinks and try to read the menu before you print it. Do not make me turn on my phone light, for the love of goddess!
9. Table lights. Oh wait, never mind, let me turn on this annoying little table light that is not only taking up precious table real estate along with the silverware caddy and water carafe, but it’s also too damn bright. Some have different brightness settings, but the LED light is usually cold and not going to help me take better pictures of your food—I feel like we’re about to operate on that pork loin. Nurse, suction! (But the lights come in handy at outdoor tables at night, so those can stay.)
10. Misogynistic wine service. Tap tap tap, is this thing on? Good. It’s 2025, and a few months ago, I witnessed the owner of a wine bar offer a taste of Champagne to the sole male at our table and then ask him if our table of three wanted a bottle of it, while my friend (a female wine professional) and I sat there with our jaws falling off the table and sliding onto the floor like Dalí’s clocks. After twenty-plus years in F&B, sure, we’ll drink anything, don’t ask us! I mean, what do we know? Besides, we’re invisible! Yeah, right. Don’t be that guy. Simply ask who’s tasting for the table (and don’t just look at the male).
Read past issues of the bore here to catch up on my previous kvetches, like fake neon signs and serving food on metal trays.
the chatterbox
Tommaso’s Reopens Under New Owner and Longtime Industry Vet Mo Donegan
On Sunday night, I was happy to pop by Tommaso’s for a friends and family party to celebrate the reopening under new owner, Mo Donegan (you can read my past story about the changeover from the Crotti family here). It was so fun to see so many Postrio alums in the house, and we even had Puck’s famous smoked salmon and dill-infused crème fraîche pizza coming out of Tommaso’s storied pizza oven (with caviar on top!) for a party appetizer, faboosh.
The space looks great, with a fresh coat of paint everywhere and some glam new light fixtures interspersed with the classic lanterns, but otherwise it’s mostly the same Tommaso’s we know and love (minus the booth archways and the memorabilia in the front). Same goes for the menu: they’re reopening for dinner service tonight with the same menu—some tweaks and new additions will be rolled out in coming weeks. I’m very excited for this next era under Mo’s care and leadership. Here’s to keeping the doors open and the oven lit at one of SF’s most classic and historic restaurants. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.
New Openings Include Angiday, George’s Donuts & Merriment, and Boa’s
Soup’s On at Rusty Ladle in the Outer Sunset
SFGATE posted this detailed piece about the Rusty Ladle, which is a wonderful story about a creative comeback from John Lindsey (Seven Stills, the Great Highway art gallery). The newly opened Outer Sunset neighborhood restaurant is just next door to Andytown Coffee Roasters and Lindsey’s gallery, offering a homey and affordable menu that is focused on seasonal soups (including Bodega Bay clam chowder, chicken noodle, and vegan tomato) and sandwiches, like a perfect-looking grilled cheese (the Shmelty) and an Italian-style sandwich on schiacciata that Andytown is baking for them, plus a vegan Caesar.
You can get a beer or glass of wine and post up at the penny bar (made from 10,000 pennies!), with chairs salvaged from San Mateo’s Fish Market. They also sell quarts of soup to go. Open Thu–Sun 12pm–8pm. 3645 Lawton St. at 43rd Ave.
Projects to Look Forward to This Year Include a Women’s Sports Bar and Breadbelly Is Expanding
During the holiday break, I got a call from dear friend Vinny Eng, who let me know he’s going to be helping out as opening GM for the upcoming women’s sports bar, Rikki’s, which is opening in the former Copas in the Castro (once 2223). Mission Local reports co-owners Danielle Thoe and Sara Yergovich met playing soccer for the San Francisco Spikes, an LGBTQ+ soccer club, and “bonded over their shared struggle to find a bar to watch the WNBA, Bay FC, or any other women’s sports game.” Their upcoming women’s sports bar is going to change that this spring.
Not only will the queer-founded bar be airing women’s sports that are rarely viewed anywhere, in addition to major sporting events and games, but it’s also going to be inclusive to anyone who wants to watch women’s sports—and since there will be a full kitchen, Rikki’s can welcome guests of all ages. SFIST reports JD Vance of Jamber is developing the food menu.
Mission Local explains: “Rikki’s is named after Rikki Streicher, the legendary community activist, owner, and operator of three long-since-shuttered lesbian bars in the city: Maud’s, Amelia’s, and Olive Oil’s Bar and Grill. Streicher also helped found the Gay Games.”
The duo launched a WeFunder to help reach their fundraising goals and cover opening expenses—they hope to open in five months or so. In the meantime, keep up with their watch parties at Standard Deviant and updates at @rikkisbarsf. 2223 Market St. at Sanchez.
48 Hills caught the news that Katherine Campecino-Wong, James Wong, and Clement Hsu of Breadbelly are currently seeking investors for their expansion (not just of your waistline) into a massive space at Pier 70. See more in their Instagram post and their Small Business Bonds/SMBX campaign, which mentions: “Our plans in the next year include completion of a 2nd retail store and a manufacturing facility at historic Pier 70 Bldg 12. With the ability to expand pastry production and a facility for training our bakery team, we plan to further develop our products and fulfill growth opportunities in B2C retail, catering services, wholesale, and CPG vending.” Rock on!
The New Year Brings Many Moves and Closures
Some temporary tough news for Bayview: business owner Olton Rensch of Tallio’s Coffee & Tea has closed his Bayview café at 4732 3rd Street, but there is reportedly another Bayview location on the horizon, so his café will be staying in the neighborhood—you can help support that project with this GoFundMe. In the meantime, the team is focusing on their presence at Café Mélange, the downstairs café at City Hall (along with Gumbo Social and Yes Pudding).
It seems like there has only been good news coming out of the Ferry Building Marketplace lately, until chef Reem Assil announced an unexpected upcoming closure of Reem’s California–Ferry Building on January 31st since their lease wasn’t renewed after two years in the space; the post says, “We were informed that our current space would be needed for reconstruction and that our lease would not be renewed. With no viable alternative space available, this chapter of our story has come to an end (at least for now!).” Read more in their post here, and be sure to support the Reem’s California Mission location since this unanticipated closure is a hit to their business.
SFGATE reported Red Bay’s Coffee’s lease at the Ferry Building Marketplace is also ending, and they will be closing at the end of the month as well. (Red Bay Coffee recently opened a new café located at 220 Montgomery Street, FYI.) SFGATE shares this statement from the Ferry Building Marketplace: “Once Reem’s California and Red Bay Coffee exit late next month, the two spaces will be remodeled and combined to make way for a future restaurant in a renovation project that is expected to take a year to complete, the management team wrote in a statement.”
Another departure from the Ferry Building is Daily Driver, who announced the closure of their six-year-old business just a few days before Christmas. Waaaah! Their Dogpatch flagship and Ferry Building kiosk have sadly both closed. I absolutely loved their chewy wood-fired bagels, their hand-paddled butter, and tasty pizza bagels, but as their post proclaims: “The model isn’t working.” True that. They mention a restaurant will be opening in their Dogpatch space, and is hiring their amazing team, so that’s great news in the midst of a tough closure—stand by for who and what that is.
The Madrigal in Civic Center announced their closure after being in the space for 10 years. Their late-night burger will be missed. In their farewell post, they mention: “We are going to take some time to re-imagine the possibilities and host some cool pop-ups, charity events and private events over the next year. DM us for more info and continue to follow along on our journey as we pivot again!” 100 Van Ness Ave.
Lastly, I was sorry to see an Instagram post from Al Pastor Papi, the hot pink food truck from Miguel Escobedo, announcing that after six years of serving Mexico City-style al pastor (on a trompo), that it’s closing up shop (for now). He says: “I will take this time to rest, take care of my mental and physical health, be with the kids, and create time and space to plan the next move, so please stay tuned.” Check the post for the final locations this week where you can score his tacos, burritos, and more (also available on DoorDash).
the sugar mama
Tablehopper Subscriber Exclusive: Enter to Win Tickets to a World-Class Collaboration at Empress by Boon with Simone Caporale
From January 22nd–24th, 2025, Empress by Boon in San Francisco is hosting an exclusive collaboration between Michelin-starred Chef Ho Chee Boon and Simone Caporale, the World’s Best Bartender and founder of SIPS Barcelona, the World’s Best Bar by World’s 50 Best.
While all events during Caporale’s three-day residency are sold out, tablehopper subscribers can enter a giveaway to win two seats at the bar for the sold-out Simone x Boon cocktail dinner on Friday January 24, 2025 (available from 5pm–9pm), featuring front-row access to Simone Caporale crafting his signature drinks. (The tasting menu and cocktail pairing dinner is worth $225/person.)
The giveaway ends Monday January 13th at 12pm (Pacific time). One winner (must be 21 and over) will be chosen by Empress by Boon.
Simone Caporale, known for his boundary-pushing mixology, will showcase genre-defying cocktails paired with Chef Ho’s innovative Cantonese dishes, crafted from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.
Empress by Boon
838 Grant Avenue (between Washington and Clay), San Francisco
the lush
Doing Dry January? Here Are Some Non-Alcoholic Products I’m Digging After a Visit to The New Bar
Some of you are doing Dry January, Dry Forever, or just trying to drink less, so I want to be sure you know about The New Bar on Union Street. tablehopper EA Savannah Leone Bundy wrote up this shop specializing in N/A beverages back when it opened in May 2024, and I went to check it out over the holiday break. It’s impressively well-stocked, and I had fun looking at all the cool branding and creative products.
Something they do that is really smart is there’s a fridge of single-serve/RTD products, so if you’ve been curious about trying the full lineup of Kin products or Aplos or De Sol (or many other brands) without having to commit to an entire box, this is a great way to try flavors out individually. They also offer tastes of many products that they have opened behind the counter, so that’s another way you can discover some new bevvies.
Some personal favorites: the entire St. Agrestis line (especially their Amaro Falso and the Phony Negroni—and the Phony Espresso Negroni is great if you’re going out, it’s caffeinated!), the Kin Euphorics Actual Sunshine is a perfect pick-me-up on a groggy morning, Copenhagen Company sparkling teas are an elegant apéritif, and I enjoy Ceybon Calm AF for winding down before bed (or when I’m getting stressed out).
The New Bar also carries the Free Spirits line, and if you attended the tablehopper Bohemian Sunday event, hopefully you tried the NOgroni we were serving (Free Spirits was one of the party sponsors), courtesy of the West Bev Consulting team. (Recipe from Free Spirits here.) I served NOgronis to some guests over the holiday, and they loved being able to partake in a non-alcoholic, Italian-style aperitivo before dinner. (The Spirit of Milano is a flexible, N/A aperitivo product—last year, I was using it to make The Winter Cup at holiday parties.) The Pathfinder is another one that is fun to play with—it’s like an amaro, with complex flavor and good texture.
While I’m not having a Dry January (I like mine wet and neat, ha-ha), I do like having options of things to drink besides water when I want a little something interesting at home, or something N/A to drink in between alcoholic drinks at parties, or to mix with alcoholic products in order to make a cocktail more low-ABV. These are also handy bevvies to have around when I’m consuming cannabis (um, nightly), and I don’t want to get cross-faded.
Since some of the drinks are functional beverages with ingredients like caffeine and L-Theanine and nootropics, they’re also a handy alternative to coffee when you want a gentle energy or brain boost in the afternoon. And restaurants, if you’re looking to build out your N/A offering, here’s a great way to see and try what’s out there. 2181A Union St. at Fillmore.
