July 30, 2019 - This week's tablehopper: for my next trick...

This week's tablehopper: for my next trick...                    

Step right up to the mymilligram microdoser bar! Yours truly having some fun hosting a “party enhancement table” up in Gualala at my friend’s barbecue a couple weeks ago. Photo: Liza Shaw.

Howdy, friends. I hope you’re enjoying your summer in some form, whether it’s panzanella for dinner or weekend hikes or drinking rosé alfresco. Hopefully all that and then some. I had a wonderful visit up north to Gualala (a bit north of Sea Ranch) a week ago, man, is that some beautiful coastline! I set up a mymilligram microdoser bar with low-dose cannabis products at my friend’s summer barbecue, now THAT was fun. (Cannabis olive oil from Pot d’Huile over gelato, oh you know it!) If you’d like to hire me to do the same for your parties, get in touch. You can scroll through these mymilligram partay highlights for pics (at the end).

A couple weeks ago, I attended a media preview dinner for Selby’s in Atherton, and was so delighted with the entire experience; I hope you enjoy today’s in-depth feature on it. A return to old-school class and glamour, I’m all for it.

This week is looking pretty fab, with a pop-up from Midnite Bagel on Wednesday evening, and I can’t believe I get to experience Horn Barbecue on Saturday at Hanger 1 in Alameda, oh boyyyyy. (I was in Richmond last Saturday morning with my taco wingwoman T$ on the ultimate taco quest: quesabirria at pop-up El Garage! It’s all I can think about.)

I also went to an absolutely mind-blowing magic/illusionist show from Cal Performances called At the Illusionist’s Table with mentalist, dramatic performer, and riveting storyteller Scott Silven. It was a unique setup: the evening included an intimate candlelit communal dinner with fellow guests (and whisky!), and was a total head-scratcher (HOW DID HE DO THAT?!). I have never seen a show on this level. But honestly, I also can’t imagine what it’s like to be able to afford the $350 ticket. If money is no object, or you really love magic and want to treat yo’ self in a major way, it’s a very special experience. They just extended the show, so check it out! (You can read a detailed review from a fellow guest here. And yes, that’s me in a couple of the pics, LOL.)

If you’re looking for a magic show that’s much easier on the pocketbook, check out today’s sponsor: Kevin Blake! And if you’re canna curious and not going to Outside Lands on Saturday the 10th, take a look at the infused dinner with chef Joe Sasto and that Pot d’Huile olive oil I just mentioned (I’m a fan).

Next week, I’m looking forward to a warm summer night at Wente with my dad to see the Four Tops and The Temptations—have you looked at their summer concert lineup? It extends into September, take a look, and grab some friends.

Lastly, I’m moderating a panel (Women, Wine, and Weed!) at the third annual Wine & Weed Symposium next Thursday August 8th, use my code MICRODOSER for a discount on tickets (which are almost sold out!). Hope to see you there, it’s a thought-provoking event!

Have a swell evening. Marcia Gagliardi

the chatterbox

Gossip & News (the word on the street)

Selby's Opens in Atherton, Offering a Glamorous, Classic Dining Experience

The Bacchus Management Group (The Village Pub, Spruce) has really done it this time: now open in Atherton is their latest project, SELBY’S. Open in the former Chantilly, the location has been home to fine-dining restaurants since 1937, and the swanky style feels like a throwback to that era. The group spent over two years on the project, and it shows in all the exquisite details.

Interior designer Stephen Brady, who designed Spruce, took inspiration from Hollywood’s glamorous dining scene of the 1930s and 1940s. The 10,000-square-foot space has two levels, with room for 48 in the main dining room, and 40 in the bar and lounge. There’s also a private card room, with room for 8 (you can dine in there and then a felt topper for the table comes out when it’s time to play cards—they can also hire a dealer for you); the balcony room seats 40, and there’s additional seating for up to 70, with many private dining options.

Walking through the original doors, you’ll note luxurious touches like forest green mohair walls (they provide great acoustics, and founding partner Tim Stannard tells me they have bought all the green mohair that exists in the world, for the moment), tobacco saddle leather chairs, black paneled wainscoting, and some stunning lighting, including a custom chandelier by Magnus Schevene. The welcoming design is eclectic, both modern and vintage, and is meant to make you feel like you want to linger. The Bacchus team is known for their top-notch service, only adding to the desire to stay awhile.

The bar is such a looker—I felt like I was having a cocktail in Manhattan—with three arches inlayed with gold foil, a white Carrara marble bar top, and wraparound leather chairs and bar chairs. There are over 110 American whiskies, and ask about their Blanton’s barrel reserve. There’s also an extensive selection of eau de vie from Austria, and select Chartreuse too.

The artwork is a seminal part of the décor, featuring original artwork by Rob Delamater of Lost Art Salon, who also curated over 175 pieces of vintage and contemporary artwork, hung salon-style throughout the space (I particularly fell in love with the large pieces by Bay Area abstract expressionist Jack Freeman hanging by the dramatic white marble staircase).

Many of you know what a fanatic I am for vintage restaurant history, menus, and ephemera, so I was pretty smitten with the entire dining experience they have crafted here. Bacchus executive chef Mark Sullivan really enjoyed researching vintage dishes, and has updated them with a California seasonal lens (and lightness). I’m calling it Cali-Continental, and it’s elegant without being fussy, luxurious without being gauche. Some media outlets have fussed over the Black Label $50 burger (with Époisses and black truffle), but I think that’s missing the point of the menu. (And, by the way, if you want a burger, the Selby’s burger is just $21, served with Comté.)

Starters include a lobster consommé with seafood mousseline ($19); a Russian salad (based on the recipe for salad Olivier, which dates back to the 1860s at the Ermitage in Moscow), lightened up with seasonal vegetables from SMIP Ranch and a creamy dill dressing, $17; and if you feel like splashing out with a friend, get the cured Hokkaido scallop with Kaluga caviar and cream with verjus, shallot, and yuzu ($75), perfect with a glass of their Champagne from Sanger, an exclusive here in California.

I was happy to see carpaccio Cipriani ($22) on the menu (prepared tableside)—when was the last time you had carpaccio? Some burnished Gruyère popovers will hit the table, hang onto one until the end of your meal so you can surreptitiously scoop up sauces like beurre rouge. Oh, and the china! The Ginori porcelain dishes are so beautiful, what a treat to dine off of such lovely china.

Mains include an elegant and lightly cured halibut ($41) adorned with little scales of thinly sliced potato, and you’ll want it with a side of Robuchon potatoes (there is nothing creamier on this earth), $17.

The duck is what got chef de cuisine Jason Pringle the job—here, it’s dry-aged for 17 days, and served tableside as a roast crown of duck for two ($98)—the exterior has a fantastic seasoning. Order the La Tur Robiola ravioli ($19) to share on the side, they were charmingly inspired by Lucca Ravioli (RIP). You’ll also see a variety of prime steaks from Holstein cattle, dry-aged exclusively for Selby’s by Flannery’s Beef. Plus sauces (bring on the béarnaise)!

Dessert from executive pastry chef Janina O’Leary (previously Per Se and Del Posto) is fantastic—the midnight chocolate cake ($13) with salted caramel and fudge sauce is best in class (she uses Valrhona chocolate, and there’s also olive oil in it). I’d travel here just for it and eat a slice at the bar, I’m not kidding. Beautiful mignardises at the end of the meal, like peach Bellini bonbons!

Of course wine and spirits director Andrew Green has pulled out all the stops with Selby’s. The cellar has one of the most substantial opening wine lists in the United States, including 3,000-4,000 wines from first-class producers around the world, and focusing on vintage Italian, Spanish, French, and California wines. (They’re gunning to acquire their third Wine Spectator Grand Award.)

There’s also some really fun tableside action with their Martini Cart (you can see it in action in my post on Instagram), serving two variations of “The Coldest Martini on the West Coast,” a classic martini and Vesper (they use frozen spirits only, without shaking or stirring, so it’s potent!).

Enjoy more pics here and here. Dinner nightly 5pm-10pm. Book your table soon (yes, even if you live in SF, you’re going to want to come down to the Peninsula for this experience!), and hey, tech bros, leave the Patagonia at home for a change, would ya? 3001 El Camino Real at Selby, Atherton, 650-546-7700.

April Bloomfield Closes Tosca Cafe, New Owners on the Horizon

Big news from over the weekend: North Beach’s TOSCA CAFE closed after service Saturday night. Eater reports chef-owner April Bloomfield is keeping the bar open for a bit, but no word for how long. In a follow-up statement to Eater, Bloomfield states, “Tosca Cafe will close temporarily as I prepare to transfer this iconic restaurant to new management. The conversation is still in-progress, so I can’t comment further, but I expect the restaurant to return to full operation in the near future.”

According to Eater, it sounds like Tosca has had financial troubles of late. Shame that Bloomfield and Friedman didn’t transfer it to chef Josh Even and Dana Katzakian when they made an offer. But, I’m glad there’s new management taking over—here’s hoping they bring armloads of sage to smudge the fuck out of that place, which I haven’t had much of a desire to return to since Isaac Shumway was let go back in 2015. I’m glad this treasured location will stay with us, but hopefully the next operators will do right by it, and our city that loves it so.

After Founding SPQR 12 Years Ago, Shelley Lindgren Has Divested from the Restaurant

Some big news over at SPQR: managing partner Shelley Lindgren, who co-founded the Fillmore restaurant in 2007, has divested ownership in it. She will continue to focus on A16’s SF and Rockridge locations, and A16 is going to have an upcoming location in the Oakland airport. She is also busy researching and writing “The New Italian Wine,” with Kate Leahy, coming out with Ten Speed Press in spring 2021.

Executive chef Matthew Accarrino, who has been in that role since 2009, will be assuming more oversight of the restaurant operations.

SPQR            - 1911 Fillmore St. San Francisco - 415-771-7779

Chef Moves and Updates: Christa Chase Leaving Tartine Manufactory, Patterson Returns to Coi

SF is losing a talented chef: executive chef Christa Chase is leaving TARTINE MANUFACTORY on August 20th. She helped open the restaurant in 2016, and became the exec in 2017. She says she’s going to enjoy a break (so well-deserved), and will be part of a new project by the end of the year in Oakland (no details to share yet, but at least she isn’t going too far). Thank you for feeding us such fresh, flavorful, craveable dishes!

Over at COI, chef Daniel Patterson is taking the helm once again (he left the kitchen in 2016). Over the weekend, chef Erik Anderson announced his departure in an Instagram post, and alludes to a new project in Northern California, so he isn’t going far.

Cow Marlowe Temporarily Closed for a Refresh

I’ve been hearing from multiple sources about changes happening at the eight-month-old COW MARLOWE in Cow Hollow, and got an update from Big Night Restaurant Group’s Anna Weinberg. They’re making some updates to the kitchen, and decided to lighten up everything overall, which includes the menu, cocktails, and interior from Ken Fulk (Anna sent me a pic of the in-progress paint job, and it’s looking much more airy).

Cow Marlowe is due to be closed until August 22nd, I’ll keep you posted on the changes and timing. 3154 Fillmore St. at Greenwich.

Openings: Seven Stills on 24th Street, New Thai Elephant, Homage Ltd.

After the closure of Almanac Tap Room in the Mission, local brewer (and distiller) SEVEN STILLS has moved into the space and is now open as a taproom.

You can check out the tap list, and there’s a rather extensive and affordable menu of snacks that includes Padrón peppers, deviled eggs, roasted garlic hummus, a BLT, fried chicken sandwich, and, of course, a cheeseburger.

Brunch includes loco moco, a masa waffle, and special brunch drinks/low-ABV cocktail options. The space got a bit of a refresh, with a new mural, and don’t forget there’s that awesome back patio. Hours: Mon-Wed 5pm-10pm, Thu 12pm-10pm, Fri 12pm-11pm, Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 11am-9pm. 2704 24th St. at Potrero, 415-658-7661.

North Beach residents were dismayed with the closure of Tamarind Hall, their sole Thai restaurant, but a new Thai place has opened, NEW THAI ELEPHANT, with a menu of Thai standards, from apps to rice plates to noodle soups and dishes. This is their second location, their first is in San Mateo. Open daily 11am-9:30pm. 393 Bay St. at Mason, 415-818-8999.

Downtown’s HOMAGE has opened a second location in the FiDi, offering breakfast, coffee service, lunch, and twilight/happy hour service. There’s housemade bread, seasonal soups and salads, and well-chosen wines and vermouths. Check the site for menus. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm. 214 California St. at Front, 415-658-7732. ​

Events: Abort the Ban, GastroMagic Lineup at Outside Lands

This Thursday August 1st, over 70 Bay Area restaurants and bars are taking part in a fundraiser called Abort the Ban, the first annual Bay Area Fight for Abortion Rights event! Womxn’s reproductive rights are under attack, and a team of womxn working in the Bay Area restaurant industry want to do something about it! Their goal is to raise $40,000; all funds will be donated to Planned Parenthood.

Please consider dining at participating restaurants this Thursday, whether you’re picking up bagels at Daily Driver to checking out the new AL’s Deli. (Many thanks to the sponsors who are helping to make this happen.) You can also visit their CrowdRise page for donations. Follow them on Instagram for more at @bayareafightforabortionrights.

I can’t believe Outside Lands returns next weekend (August 9th-11th), where did the summer go? Do you have your food and drink hitlist lined up? Take a look at my post from last month about what’s new, and now the GastroMagic programming has been announced. This year, they’re partnering with Bon Appétit as a curating stage partner, who is bringing a bunch of their staff (including editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport, and super cutie senior food editor Andy Baraghani).

We’re also getting some L.A. talent up here: Jessica Koslow of Sqirl and Susan Feniger of Border Grill and Too Hot Tamales (she’s even donating her time and performance fee to The Los Angeles LGBT Center). Local talent will include returning guests Brenda’s French Soul Food (beignets and bounce!), Rich Table (porcini doughnuts!), and Chris Cosentino, with new appearances from Counting Crows frontman Adam Duritz, Michael Solomonov of Zahav in Philly, rapper CupcakKe, and more.

the sponsor

This Round Is On Me... (hey, thanks!)

(Sponsored Event): Pasta & Pot Palooza with Chef Joe Sasto and Pot d'Huile

Come join chef Joe Sasto—recently the executive sous chef of Lazy Bear, pasta director for Quince, and top three finalist of Top Chef Season 15—along with Pot d’Huile for a palooza of pasta and pot. This exclusive and intimate one-night-only event has limited seating. The cannabis infusions are completely optional, and guests are welcome to BYOB to enjoy throughout the evening as well.

Dinner will be served at a secret location in the Mission (venue address to be emailed out to ticket holders 24 hours prior to the event). An eight-course tasting menu will be served, each individually infused with a combination of CBD and THC, as desired. We will start welcoming guests at 6pm, dinner at 6:30pm on Saturday August 10th.

We are in a unique time: as the prohibition of cannabis is coming to end, the negative stigmas that have plagued the industry for decades are slowly being lifted. With a lot of hesitation surrounding the consumption of edibles, chef Joe has carefully curated an experience that allows you to sit back and relax—removing the stress from the equation—individually dosing each guest’s meal tailored to their individual tolerances, from beginner to high.

Please join us for this fun gourmet experience that is quintessentially SF, tickets here!

the lush

Bar News & Reviews (put it on my tab)

Australian Little Creatures Opens Microbrewery and Restaurant in Mission Bay

Now open in Mission Bay is a microbrewery and restaurant from Australian craft brewery LITTLE CREATURES. There are 36 taps (24 behind the bar, 6 in the Brew Lab, and 6 in the To-Go Café for crowler takeaway), featuring beers brewed exclusively on-site by head brewer Dennis Stewart, and beers imported from Australia, plus an all-day menu from chef Ian De Leoz and weekend brunch. It’s in the middle of all the action, adjacent to Oracle Park and near the Golden State Warriors Sports and Entertainment Center.

They’re opening with their flagship range (pale ale, session ale, original pils), and XPA, Rogers, Bright Ale, and the James Squire Orchard Crush Cider, and will soon be adding a number of rotating offerings, guest taps, and collaborative brews. There are also wines on tap (from American, Australian and New Zealand producers). De Leoz’s menu includes Aussie wedges (seasoned and battered russet potatoes) served with sour cream and sweet chile sauce; Turkish bread with dukkah, hummus, and olive oil; lamb ribs with gochujang, scallion, and sesame; plus a fried chicken sandwich; beer- steamed Salt Springs mussels with Little Creatures pale ale and chorizo; and pizzas, like a Margherita, forest mushroom, or merguez with lamb sausage, ricotta, mozzarella, red onion, and arugula. Open Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun brunch 9am-2:30pm and open all day until 11pm. One Mission Bay, 1000A 3rd St. at Channel, 415-870-9082.

Events Include Ripe: Summer Cocktails of the Farmers Market and Wine Classes at DecantSF

A quick round of shots: Ripe: Summer Cocktails of the Farmers Market is on Wednesday August 7th to benefit CUESA. Plan for a night of peak-season drinks from 13 of the Bay Area’s most talented bartenders in the iconic Ferry Building’s Grand Hall (plus some market-fresh bites). There will be peaches!

Save on tickets when you bring your friends! Tickets: $60. With the Party Pack ticket option, you’ll unlock a $5 discount per ticket when you purchase 4 or more tickets.

Want to learn more about wine? Check out the lineup of events happening at the new DECANTSF in SoMa, from a Back to Basics class to SOMMSundays with guest sommeliers for weekly, winemaker-led seminars featuring wine flights and bottle specials.

Co-founders and sommeliers Cara Patricia and Simi Grewal are also partnering with executive chef Jessie Lugo of nearby ALX for the first event of their Female Chef Food and Wine series on Friday August 9th, 6:30pm-8pm. Live cooking demo (of a vegetarian dish), bites, conversation, and pairings; $34.

the sponsor

This Round Is On Me... (hey, thanks!)

(Sponsored Event): "Kevin Blake Is Crazy Good!" -- Penn & Teller

“Defies magic stereotypes.” — San Francisco Chronicle

“Originality that aces almost everything.” — Howie Mandel

“I love you. I love your magic. Are you single?” — Heidi Klum

Come see the Bay Area’s local magic phenom KEVIN BLAKE in his solo show, Magic Man, at The Palace Theater, back by popular demand. Four nights only, Fridays and Saturdays August 16th-17th and 23rd-24th. The Palace Theater is located at 644 Broadway in San Francisco.

Magic Man is Blake’s third acclaimed underground solo show. Over the last several years, he has opened for Third Eye Blind at the Fillmore, toured with Band of Magicians in New Zealand and Australia, and impressed judges and audiences on NBC’s America’s Got Talent—and earlier this summer on The CW’s Penn & Teller: Fool Us.

For more info and to purchase tix, visit boxcartheatre.org/magic-man.