July 10, 2013 - This week's tablehopper: blame it on Rio.

This week's tablehopper: blame it on Rio.                    

The Bahian ladies (at a food stand in Rio) who made my favorite dish of the trip: acarajé! Photo: © tablehopper.com.

Boa tarde! I know, this is a first: a tablehopper on a Wednesday. But yours truly had her Saturday flight from Rio canceled an hour before I was due to leave for the airport, and wasn’t rebooked until Monday night! I know, I could think of worse places to be stranded than Rio. Anyway, here I am, and thank God for my super editorial assistant Dana who was able to track so many of these stories during my delay.

Brazil was quite the adventure—I was so impressed with many of the wineries in the south we visited (guess who was happy to be in the land of sparkling wine!), and I’m really happy my bottle of bubs from Cave Geisse made it home safely in my bag (also pleased my hot sauce didn’t explode, along with my “digestif grappa” from Perini). Whew.

Seeing Italy play against Spain in Fortaleza in a semi-final game in the Confederations Cup is something I won’t forget (although watching the Azzurri lose to a penalty kick was rough), and hello, my solo week in Rio was over the top. What a sultry, stylish city. I’ll be sorting through images and more for a recap soon, but in the meantime, you can check out a ton of pics I took on Instagram and Facebook.

I am definitely dragging right now (16 hours on two planes will do that to a person) and was very content to return to my espresso machine (and how nice, a houseguest left me a bag of Blue Bottle Hayes Valley espresso, aww). Speaking of cawfee, do you remember that panel on local coffee roasters I moderated for the Commonwealth Club? Well, now you can listen to it online if you’re so inclined.

A few more items: I have a few 7x7 posts to share with you, like this one on some of my favorite places to go for a banquet dinner with friends (so perfect for birthdays!), and I also wrote a piece on the best spots for coffee-lunch meetings (something I always struggle with—it’s so hard to find the right spot!).

I also have last week’s column for the SF Bay Guardian linked for you (and what the heck, here’s my SFBG column from the week prior because you need to know about the steak tartare I featured in it).

This Sunday evening is the CUESA Summer Celebration, are you coming? It’s an awesome event—there is more delicious food and tasty wine, beer, and booze than you’ll even know what to do with, seriously. And I’ll be there at a table, so please come by and say hello. It goes without saying that CUESA is a wonderful organization to support, so come on down!

Okay folks, I gotta go—I have a mountain of email to contend with, you can’t even imagine. But I’ll be back in your inbox on Friday.

Tchau! Marcia Gagliardi

the chatterbox

Gossip & News (the word on the street)

Roka Akor Now Open in Jackson Square

We have previously covered details in a hardhat piece of ROKA AKOR, the new modern Japanese robata restaurant that just opened in Jackson Square (in the former Cypress Club, for you fellow old-timers). Here are a few more details for you: the opening menu is online, featuring a wide range of Japanese-inspired dishes with local ingredients. I’m looking forward to trying dishes from chef Roman Petry, like the Mendocino uni with lime, daikon sprouts, and chicharrones; lobster and abalone miso soup; Wagyu beef and kimchi dumplings; and Madagascan tiger prawn (er, not local, heh) with yuzu koshu chile and lemon. There are also prime steaks, plus nigiri sushi and maki rolls, and the lunch menu has some specials too. There is a robata-driven bar menu served late, like Japanese-style fried chicken with smoked aioli.

You’ll also find a creative beverage program from the talented Daniel Hyatt (including infused shochus, top-notch whiskeys, and of course his one-of-a-kind cocktails—check ‘em out here), desserts from pastry chef Alexander Ruiz (Redd and Redd Wood), and Kiet Le (Luce) is the GM.

To recap, design firm Arcanum Architecture is behind the modern look, including the robata grill encircled by a shou-sugi-ban counter made of charred birch wood finished by hand, and Concrete Works created the concrete art wall inspired by the bamboo forests of Kyoto in the dining room.

Hours are lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; dinner Sun-Thu 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11pm. The Roka bar hours are Mon-Thu 3:30pm-12am, Fri 3:30pm-2am, Sat 5pm-2am, Sun 5pm-12am. 801 Montgomery St. at Jackson, 415-362-8887.

Tacolicious Is Now Slinging Tacos in North Beach

A report by Dana Massey-Todd. As previously announced on tablehopper, Joe Hargrave’s taco mini-empire TACOLICIOUS has a new outpost in North Beach. The newest member of the family is complete with their signature touches, including dramatic tile (it’s black and white this time, and just as stylish as the previous versions), a long bar, and outdoor seating. The space—which they took over from Caffe Maria after the owner retired—has been opened up quite a bit in front, with lots of windows letting plenty of light in. The bar is warm wood, and the walls are brightly painted, giving the whole place a welcoming vibe. There’s seating for 49, and all the tables are bistro height, including the banquettes along one wall, which lends to the casual, bar-like atmosphere.

The menu is similar to the other locations, with seasonal and well-prepared tacos that include their housemade salsas, plus lots of appetizers and side dishes; take a look at the full menu here. Of course, they’ve also got their full array of cocktails available by the glass or pitcher, including their Paloma and the delicious margarita picante. That said, this location is just as kid-friendly as the others, so bring the little ones too. They’re open straight through lunch and dinner, so it’s an easy spot to stop midafternoon for a beverage and a taco snack, plus they’ve got a television at the bar if you need a stylish place to park it during the baseball game. Open daily 11:30am-12am. 1548 Stockton St. at Union, 415-433-1800.

20th Century Cafe Is (Softly) Open in Hayes Valley (Yay!)

A report by Dana Massey-Todd. As previously mentioned on tablehopper, Michelle Polzine, the former pastry chef at Range, has opened her own project in Hayes Valley, called 20TH CENTURY CAFE. It’s open softly for now, with some limited menu choices like her delicious knishes, bagels, raspberry plum coffee cake, and ice cream in three flavors: peach leaf, chicory, and vanilla. The menu will expand more in the coming weeks, especially in the savory department. They’ve got Blue Bottle espresso and coffee to go along with the pastries too.

Inspiration for the project comes from the cafés of the “Danube region” of Europe, including cities like Budapest, Vienna, and Prague, and this is reflected not only in the food but in the space as well. It definitely has a charming, European feel to it, with marble-topped café tables, classic Thonet chairs, a green stone floor, and antique-style brass light fixtures. The front counter is made of pressed metal and marble, and the copper espresso machine still operates with handles, which is a rarity these days. Current hours are 10am-6pm daily, closed Mondays. Like the menu, hours will likely expand in the coming weeks. 198 Gough St. at Oak.

Sparrow Opens on Haight

A report by Dana Massey-Todd. As mentioned on tablehopper in January, the former BIA’S on Haight Street is now SPARROW BAR AND KITCHEN. The new project comes from Veronica Lopez and Marc Diebold, with consultation on the menu from Ola Fendert of Oola. They officially opened last night for dinner. Brunch will start next weekend, and lunch should be coming soon. The space, which is larger than it appears from the street, seats 45 in the main dining room and has spectacularly high ceilings, with a mezzanine level that seats 15. In the back is additional seating for 12 at the communal table, which can be reserved for large groups. Last but definitely not least is a pretty fantastic patio that seats 40. Wisely, they’ve made sure to have plenty of patio heaters on the plank deck, and there is seating for both groups and smaller parties.

The menu has something for everyone, starting with snacks like olives ($6) and popcorn ($5) to small plates to share like roasted beets ($10) and salads. They’ve got a burger that’s available with a beef or vegan patty ($13), and the menu is definitely vegetarian-friendly. There are also several gluten-free choices, so bring all your friends without fear. They’re making ice cream and sorbet in-house for dessert, and the brunch lineup includes chicken and waffles ($14) and several different egg dishes.

You’ll find 14 beers on tap, including offerings from Old Rasputin, Pacific Brewing Laboratory, and Linden Street. The wine list is focused on food-friendly pours, and all wines are availabe by the glass or bottle—you’ll need it after an afternoon of shopping and navigating tourists. 1640 Haight at Clayton, 415-622-6137.

Coming Soon: Asian Box Opening in Macy's Union Square, a Second Salumeria

As reported in the Scoop, Peninsula outfit with the racy name ASIAN BOX is opening a San Francisco location in Macy’s Union Square. Partners Frank Klein, Grace Nguyen, and Chad Newton opened in Palo Alto in 2012, and this is their first venture northward. The new spot will be moving into the former Wolfgang Puck space in the Macy’s basement marketplace, offering fresh rice bowls to hungry shoppers; check out the menu here. Look for an opening later this summer. 170 O’Farrell St. in the Macy’s Marketplace.

A second SALUMERIA from the Ne Timeas Restaurant Group (Flour + Water, Central Kitchen) will be opening in the Hamm’s Building in September. On offer: a lineup of their house sandwiches, salads, soups, antipasti, plus wine and beer (available to drink on-premise only) and espresso drinks. There will be a larder with some take-home items, but not as extensive as the original location. Hours will be Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, with a happy hour as well. 1550 Bryant St. at Alameda.

Tidbits: Artesano Opens Friday, Citizen's Band Now Open on Mondays

We broke the news back in April that Jeff Gambardella and Douglas Mathieux of Rigolo Café were opening ARTESANO in Laurel Heights. We just got word from the team last night that this casual South American concept—offering Latin American comfort food from countries ranging from Brazil to Peru to Argentina—is opening this Friday July 12th. You can peek at the menu here, featuring dishes at a wallet-friendly price point, like ceviche, salads, sandwiches, some larger plates like braised or oven-roasted chicken, and more. They’ll be open for both lunch and dinner: Sun-Thu 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sat 10:30am-10pm. 3415 California St. at Laurel, 415-221-5500.

The fine folks of CITIZEN’S BAND are giving you another opportunity to indulge in their insanely good burger since they are now open for service and dinner service on Mondays. Lunch hours are 11:30am-2pm and dinner 5:30pm-9pm (dinner will have a slightly shortened dinner menu, à la Sunday nights).

Citizen's Band            - 1198 Folsom St. San Francisco - 415-556-4901

Caffeine Scene: St. Frank at Public, and Cafe St. Jorge and Tierra Mia Are Now Open

Coffee and bikes is always a strong and winning combo. If you swing by the PUBLIC BIKES STORE in South Park, you’ll find a new coffee bar area on the front porch, with service from Saint Frank Coffee (which is due to open its own shop in August on Polk Street). And to encourage you to head on over and check it out, Public is offering all customers and friends a free coffee drink through July 20th (just mention “Honduras”). 123 South Park at Center.

Was happy to return home and see that CAFE ST. JORGE has opened in Bernal. As we mentioned earlier, this Portuguese-inspired café is from Andrea de Francisco, serving vittles (like sandwiches, pastries, and more—check out the menus here) and Stumptown Coffee. Open Mon-Wed 7am-3:30pm, Thu-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 8am-3:30pm. 3438 Mission St. at Kingston, 415-814-2028.

And in the Mission, Los Angeles import TIERRA MIA COFFEE has opened its first NorCal café, which we mentioned earlier this year. You can come by for more traditional coffee drinks, or check out the Latin-inspired beverages, like a Cubano con leche or horchata frappé. Open 6:30am-10pm daily. 3188 Mission St. at Valencia.

Closures: Canteen (Later This Summer), Plus Tokyo Go Go, More

Was sorry to hear the news that Dennis Leary is going to be closing CANTEEN at some point in late August or early September. Inside Scoop shares that with Leary’s upcoming projects (Cafe Terminus at 10 California Street and the Trocadero Club in the former RJ’s on Geary), it seems something had to give. So make your reservation for a farewell meal. I am going to miss those Parker House rolls, damn it. (But since Leary has one year left on his lease, some one-off dinners are still possible in the space after it closes.) Stand by for confirmed details on Canteen’s closure, and more on the new projects (which Leary is doing with business partner Eric Passetti) in coming weeks.

While I was away in Brazil, a reader asked me what was going on with Mission stalwart TOKYO GO GO, which appeared to be closed. Looks like Eater investigated the same thing—with the disconnected number and website down, it all points to dunzo. And so ends another little piece of my early SF memories—I totally remember when that space was hot (back when tartares were cool, heh). Awww. 3174 16th St. at Albion.

Also noted in Eater: SELLERS MARKETS in FiDi has closed. 595 Market St. at 2nd Ave.

The New Fillmore reports coffee stalwart ROYAL GROUND COFFEE has closed after 25 years on Fillmore; a steep rent increase is what spelled the funky little café’s demise. 2060 Fillmore St. at California.

Canteen            - 817 Sutter St. San Francisco - 415-928-8870

Gear Up for Outside Lands with Summer Pairings Series

If you just can’t wait for Outside Lands, which is coming to the city August 9th-11th, you’re in luck. You can catch one of the Summer Pairings series between now and the festival, which pair music, food, and wine together, albeit on a smaller scale than at the main event later this summer. First up is an afternoon at Longmeadow Ranch Winery & Farmstead in St. Helena on Sunday July 14th at 2pm. The Easy Leaves and Langhorne Slim & The Law will be performing live, and you can tour the ranch and enjoy their wines. Tickets are $30 in advance and $40 at the door, and include one wine tasting. 738 Main St. at Charter Oak, St. Helena, 707-963-4555.

Then, on Sunday July 21st, catch a sake and food pairing party at NOMBE along with “Ode to Sir Paul” (as in McCartney, the festival’s headliner) karaoke. The four-part menu includes pork belly, Japanese fried chicken, and a ramen burger (hint: the bun is made of ramen noodles), all paired with Oregon’s Momokawa Saké, which will be one of the vendors at Wine Lands. The event starts at 6:30pm and costs $40 per person; reservations can be made by calling Nombe at 415-681-7150.

On Sunday August 4th, there will be a final event in the lead-up to the festival, with MAGNOLIA BREWERY and NAMU GAJI. Details will be released soon!

Nombe            - 2491 Mission St. San Francisco - 415-681-7150

Special Dinners: Seafood at Oliveto, Pork at RN74

OLIVETO is continuing their tradition of special dinners built around exceptional ingredients, this time with their 12th annual Oceanic Dinners from July 9th-July 12th (yup, right now). You can still catch three nights of these suppers, which feature à la carte seafood options including a raw bar, pastas, appetizers, and a “bella vista” array of whole fish that can be selected and cooked using a variety of preparations. Take a look at the menu here. The special menu is available during dinner service, from 5:30pm-9pm Wed-Thu and 5:30pm-10pm Friday. Reservations (which are recommended) can be made by calling 510-547-5356.

Chef Adam Sobel at RN74 has launched a Cochon-inspired menu on Sundays (he was recently crowned the “Prince of Porc” at last month’s Grand Cochon event at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic). I can see why—I was really impressed with his dish at the San Francisco event—what a rocking medley o’ bites. The three-course prix-fixe seasonal menu (which changes weekly) is $39 per person, with dishes such as sweet corn velouté with ham hock-stuffed gougère, lemon verbena, and baby corn, and spicy braised pig cheeks with Vietnamese crêpes and pickled vegetables.

RN74            - 301 Mission St. San Francisco - 415-543-7474

Pop-Ups: Mattarello Pasta at Biondivino

Saturday July 13th should go on your calendar right now, because handmade pasta mavens Mattarello will be popping up with their exceptional wares at BIONDIVINO from 3pm-6pm. They’ll be hawking tagliatelle (including a parsley-garlic version), squid-ink spaghetti, pappardelle, and tortellini, to name just a few. Orders can be placed in advance by email. 1415 Green St. at Polk, 415-673-2320.

510 News: Umami Burger Opens, Comal Team Looking to Open a Second Project, Off the Grid Emeryville

Now Oakland has its very own UMAMI BURGER, which officially (soft) opened Monday July 8th. The new location has its own “signature burger,” the queso fundido, with a gut-busting combo of chile con queso and chorizo fundido sauce on top of a burger patty. It’s open daily 11am-11pm. 2100 Franklin St. at 21st St., Oakland, 510-899-8626.

The COMAL team is looking to open a second restaurant in Berkeley’s Elmwood neighborhood (in the Wright’s Garage space). It will be focused on Northern California cuisine and cocktails. Nosh has the details on the potential project—the team will have to get some approvals first, starting with a change of use. Stand by for updates soon. 2635 Ashby Ave. at College, Berkeley.

OFF THE GRID has started a new pod in Emeryville on Wednesdays from 11am-2pm. The new market happens behind Emeryville’s City Hall and will include four or five different trucks every week. Last week started with Mayo & Mustard and Hapa SF; check out the latest trucks on their Facebook page. Haven St. between Park and 40th Ave.

the sponsor

This Round Is On Me... (hey, thanks!)

(Sponsored): Get Your Tickets Now for CUESA's Summer Celebration on Sunday July 14th

For one night only the Ferry Building is transformed for a fabulous summer soirée: CUESA’s Summer Celebration. This year the focus is on the various “families” that have made the market a success over the years. Star chefs (like Lolinda, Central Kitchen, barbacco) and bartenders (Rye, Bourbon and Branch) will focus their palates and talents on six culinary families—berries, nightshades, grains and legumes, alliums, leaves and flowers, and of course stone fruits—creating original tastes that celebrate the height of the summer harvest.

Feast on unlimited food and drink while providing much-needed support for CUESA’s ongoing education initiatives, including free cooking demos, kitchen skill-building classes, Schoolyard to Market youth entrepreneurship program, and sustainability scholarships for farmers.

Tickets are $125, and there are a few left! Get yours now.

the lush

Bar News & Reviews (put it on my tab)

Marlena's Now Transformed Into Brass Tacks

A report by Dana Massey-Todd. As previously reported on tablehhopper, beloved gay bar MARLENA’S is no more and in its place is BRASS TACKS. Marlena’s owner Garry “Marlena” McLain has retired after 23 years and the place has been reopened by Matt Conway (of Comstock and Absinthe), Anthony Healy-London (Churchill, Bloodhound, and Double Dutch), and Josh McAdam. The first question on everyone’s lips, of course, is how will the quirky and fabulous spirit of Marlena’s live on? The answer seems to be in Marlena herself; McLain was seated at the bar having a grand old time the evening I stopped in during the friends and family opening. McLain was adamant that he wants the new crew to be successful, and has every intention of enjoying at least part of his retirement on the stools at Brass Tacks. For a great tribute to the bar and its fabulous patrons, check out the audio documentary Marlena’s Curtain Call from KALW right here.

So since that’s out of the way, let’s talk drinks, shall we? You’ll find a well-crafted list of cocktails, many with classic film-inspired names, like the Il Buono, Il Brutto, Il Cattivo (that’s mezcal, Averna, cacao, and hellfire bitters) or the To Wong Fu (brandy, Cocchi Americano, pamplemousse, lemon, Smith & Cross). Take a peek at the menu here. Ingredients will change seasonally, like the fruit syrups and other garnishes, while other cocktails might be swapped out according to the time of year. It’s not all fancy cocktails either; there are eight beers on tap and four wine taps. Opening beer choices include Brekle’s Brown from Anchor, Nitro Stout from Drake’s, and Stone IPA; selections will change frequently. For now, only three wine taps are up and running but the fourth will be added shortly. They’ve currently got a red (Vinum Red Dirt from Paso Robles), a white (Vinum White Elephant from Napa), and a rosé (Cultivar Rosé from Napa), and all glasses clock in at a wallet-friendly $8.

The newly revamped space has a long walnut bar, with beautifully chevroned floors and a sexy chandelier that bears a resemblance to ice in a cocktail glass. In the back area is some lounge-style seating for groups, and in front you can snag a stool at the large window that opens to the street outside for prime people watching on a nice day; it’s Marlena’s favorite perch. Hours are 2pm-2am Mon-Fri and 12pm-2am Sat-Sun. 488 A Hayes St. at Octavia.

Closing This Saturday: Bigfoot Lodge (Opening Under a New Owner as Cabin)

The hopper inbox received word that BIGFOOT LODGE on Polk Street is closing this Saturday July 13th. The lumberjack-friendly bar opened in 2001 from the 1933 Group (known for their collection of bars in LA). Scoop reports the next taker is David Zimmerman (Blackthorn Tavern in the Inner Sunset, F8 in SoMa), who will be turning it into Cabin. The updated look will be complete in August, but he is keeping the bar open during the remodel. 1750 Polk St. at Washington, 415-440-2355.

July Hotness: Lark Creek Restaurant Group Offers Half Off on Wines, Broc-tacular on July 21st

It’s that time of the year again, when the Lark Creek Restaurant Group offers half-price bottles of wine throughout the month of July. You can come by for brunch, lunch, or dinner, and whether you go to One Market Restaurant, LarkCreekSteak, Cupola Pizzeria, or other restaurants, you are gonna be able to enjoy that Feudi di San Gregorio Lacryma Christi for just $19, or a 2009 Radio-Coteau Savoy Pinot Noir for $70. Enjoy. (Participating restaurants of Lark Creek Restaurant Group include The Tavern at Lark Creek in Larkspur; One Market Restaurant, LarkCreekSteak, and Cupola Pizzeria in San Francisco; Lark Creek Walnut Creek; Yankee Pier in Larkspur, Lafayette, and at Santana Row in San Jose; Lark Creek Blue at Santana Row in San Jose, and Parcel 104 at the Santa Clara Marriott [Fridays only].)

On Sunday July 21st, make your way to BROC CELLARS in Berkeley for their fifth annual Broc-tacular. They’ll be pouring their wines, including several new releases, and there will be small bites from Naked Lunch. The event runs from 1pm-5pm and costs $25; RSVP here. 1300 5th St. at Gilman, Berkeley, 510-542-9463.

the socialite

Shindigs, Feasts, & Festivals (let's party)

Lamb Jam Comes to Town July 21st

Event Info

Sunday Jul 21, 2013 2pm-5pm, VIP entry 1pm $60 general admission, $75 VIP http://sanfrancisco.fansoflamb.com/lamb-jam-san-francisco/                        Golden Gate Club 135 Fisher Loop, Presidio

Ready to rock out with some of your favorite chefs while they compete to prepare the best lamb dishes they can muster? Get ready for LAMB JAM, which hits the Golden Gate Club from 2pm-5pm on Sunday July 21st. The event is hosted by the American Lamb Board and is all about showcasing the best lamb from American ranchers. More than 15 local chefs, including Alicia Jenish of Grand Café and Antelmo Faria of Tacolicious will be facing off in a competition to see who can create the best lamb dishes, all of which you get to taste.The winner will compete in the Nationals round later this year. In addition to the major lamb feast, you’ll find lots of local beer and wine, butchery demonstrations, and sweet bites.

New this year is a VIP preparty from 1pm-2pm, which offers not only early admission and access to the laaaamb, but also specialty cocktails, lamb charcuterie, and a variety of sheep’s milk cheeses. Oh, and all proceeds benefit La Cocina and their amazing culinary entrepreneurship programs. Tickets are $60 general admission, and $75 for VIP. Until July 12th (hurry, that’s Friday), you can get a four-pack of general admission tickets for $200, so grab a crew and get lamby! Golden Gate Club, 135 Fisher Loop, Presidio.

the starlet

Star Sightings in Restaurants (no photos please)

Yeezus Walks...to Brunch

Newsmaker and new father Kanye West enjoyed brunch at Park Tavern with a group of five including Kevin Systrom, the founder and CEO of Instagram, on Sunday. He enjoyed pancakes and bacon, and the group was looking at pictures from a party the night before.

Mai Tais? Waitress, Top It Off

Looks like Kanye West was bouncing all around town this weekend: he was also spotted at Smuggler’s Cove on Saturday night. Hayeswire has some photos fans posted to Instagram.

Go Together Like Burgers and Ice Cream

Hayeswire reports that Katey Sagal, who played Peggy Bundy, everyone’s favorite TV mom, was in Hayes Valley a couple of weeks ago. She visited Smitten Ice Cream and Flipper’s Gourmet Burgers, and hopefully didn’t find a cigarette in her food anywhere.

Prideful Newlyweds

Blair Late and Jeff Pedersen of Bravo’s Newlyweds were spotted on Pride Sunday at Rye. They enjoyed Hirsch Reserve on the rocks and one of the bar’s cocktails, the Red Hook, and were very sweet to the staff.