After breaking the news in the last tablehopper issue that Foxsister will be closing to make the transition to a spin on a modern, Italian American, red sauce joint, GREAT GOLD, I received an update from partner David Steele (Ne Timeas Restaurant Group—flour + water, Central Kitchen, Trick Dog, Salumeria) with more details. Foxsister’s last service is August 2nd, and it will reopen as Great Gold on Friday August 9th (they won’t be making many changes to the space, hence the zippy turnaround).
Joining chef-partner Brandon Kirksey is chef de cuisine Timmy Malloy (Local’s Corner, Radhaus, Seattle’s Tavolata), who, like Steele, is from Philadelphia and has some ingrained nostalgia for red sauce joints. But here, they’ll be sourcing local, sustainable, and seasonal ingredients, with pasta made in-house daily. They will also be supporting carbon neutral farming efforts through participation in Anthony Mynt’s non-profit ZeroFoodprint.
The menu has a big Caesar and chopped salads, a variety of spaghetti preparations, handmade cavatelli cauliflower cacio e pepe, eggplant parm, chicken al mattone, and Great Gold cioppino with local seafood. I also asked them why there wasn’t a veal Parm on the menu, and after some discussion, they added it back on, along with veal Milanese, so, you’re welcome.
You’ll see three versions of family-style meals meant to be shared by the entire table (and no, the Marcia is not me, it’s Kirksey’s grandma), and Sundays bring a family-style lasagna night.
Sam Bogue, the sommelier and wine director for flour + water and Central Kitchen, was brought in to consult on the wine list that focuses exclusively on wines from Italy, as well as local wines made by those who specialize in using varieties of grapes that originate in Italy. There will be many wines from small and independent winemakers, and most will be reasonably priced. Stand by for more details at opening. 3161 24th St. at Shotwell.
The red booths and collage artwork at Foxsister. Photo courtesy of Foxsister.