what’s cookin’
How the hell is it already the end of July? I just can’t slow this summer down. Where are the breaks on this thing? But I definitely enjoyed a taste of summer this past weekend while in Washington with my family. We had quite a family reunion in Snohomish to celebrate my cousin Maddie’s 21st birthday, complete with a seafood boil outside on a lovely, balmy evening (thanks to my cousin’s husband, Eric). It was so fun to catch up on family news and our busy lives while cracking crab, peeling shrimp and artichokes, nibbling sweet corn, and drinking white wine together at a long table in the evening light.
My immediate family rented a lake house for a couple nights on nearby Lake Roesiger, which was so peaceful. Sis and I went for a swim in the tranquil, lily pad–studded lake (which was also shallow and slimy by the dock, eeeeeee), laughed at throaty bullfrog croaks at night, and did some kayaking as well. What a gorgeous place—we wanted to stay for a couple more days and keep enjoying breakfasts on the deck. (It was a good warmup for my upcoming Tahoe time in August.) Sis and I didn’t get home from our flight until 1:15am on Monday morning, so this week was off to a crunchy start. Thank goddess for espresso.
Here are a couple interesting articles I read on my plane ride home: a new season of My Brilliant Friend returns, and this New Yorker piece has some insightful observations on Dead & Company at the Sphere in Las Vegas.
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Looks like this week is going to be a foggy one—I’ll be posting about the perfect dinner to go get in this weather on @tablehopper!
☁️☁️☁️,
~Marcia (rhymes with Garcia)
the chatterbox
Chef Lim of Bansang Has Opened a Sleek Takeout Sushi Concept in the Former Avery
The former Avery on Fillmore has been converted into a specialty sushi takeout spot, Aji Kiji (the name means “original flavor”). Chef/co-owner Jinwoong Lim of nearby Bansang is behind this new concept—he has wanted to open a sushi restaurant for some time, and since Bansang has been open for three years, it was the right time to launch his new idea. He knew chef Rodney Wages of Avery, and is pleased to be able to open this sleek and minimalist space so close to Bansang (literally next door).
When chef Jin came to San Francisco from Korea seven years ago, he worked with chef Billy Kong and the delightful Sachio Kojima (RIP) while at Kinjo on Polk (now Saru Handroll), as well as at Kabuto on Geary, and Michael Mina. A deep lover of sushi, he notes how expensive omakase is in the City, so he wanted to create a way for guests to be able to access and enjoy premium sushi without breaking the bank.
A variety of chirashi, donburi, maki, and nigiri boxes are pre-assembled for takeout, from five pieces of assorted nigiri for $19 (or a box of torched salmon/sake nigiri for $17, or maguro/tuna for $18), to 10 pieces of maki for $13. There’s a 10-piece omakase box of nigiri with 10 kinds of fish and negi toro maki (fatty tuna-green onion roll) for $54, or opt for the 10-piece nigiri with five kinds of fish (two pieces each) and maki for $40.
They slice all the fish in the morning and build the different boxes, which are displayed in a refrigerated case until purchased. (When they run out, that’s it for the day.) Chef Jin recommends people allow the box to come to room temp for at least 30 minutes, but one hour is his ideal time for the rice and fish to have the correct temperature and texture. He uses Tamanishiki rice, with two kinds of red vinegar for his shari (sushi rice). The boxes come with a base of bamboo leaf with sides of housemade pickles (cucumber and radish) and other touches and condiments, like clever soy sauce containers which have his house-blended soy sauce with lighter and sweet notes.
Once things settle down, Jin plans to remodel the upstairs and launch a private omakase room, with room for six guests. You can preorder for takeout and look at the menu here. Open Tue–Sat 11am–7pm. 1552 Fillmore St. at Geary.
A New Spot in Japantown Is Offering Housemade Soba Noodles
Another exciting project that just opened in Japantown is Sobakatsu in the former Sushi Aoba (once KISS Seafood, awwww). The tiny, eight-seat spot specializes in freshly-made soba noodles, using organic, stone-ground Japanese buckwheat grown in Maine (from Aurora Mills and Farm).
The SanJalisco Family Has Opened a Mexican Cantina and Sports Bar in SoMa
Folks living in SoMa are so stoked to have a new restaurant from the Padilla-Reyes family, who own the fantastic SanJalisco in the Mission (since 1988!). Meet Yossie’s Cantina, a Mexican cantina and sports bar in the former Rumor’s.
You always leave SanJalisco feeling well-fed (and likely with leftovers), so this is sure to be a hit with neighbors—and $8 happy hour cocktails (3pm–7pm) and all-day breakfast are also lovely things. The name is in homage to second-generation owner Dolores “Josie” Padilla, who is working in the kitchen alongside her sons, Alfonso and Francisco Reyes. Here’s to a happy expansion of this beloved family-run business. Open Mon–Thu 8am–11:30pm and Fri–Sun 8am–1:30am. 398 7th St. at Harrison.
Downright Delicious Pop-Ups and Special Menus in SF Right Now
Back in June, I wrote about the new pop-up series, PrimeBird, from chef-partner Kim Alter and partner, general manager, and beverage director Ron Boyd of Nightbird and The Linden Room in their new and adjoining private room, NightJar. There’s a window into the Nightbird kitchen, where you’ll get a peek of chef Kim in her trademark head-kerchiefed cuteness, say hi.
It’s a dramatic and intimate space, without the din of most dining rooms, and a fair amount of distance between tables, so you can have a conversation over the fun soundtrack of T. Rex, David Bowie, Talking Heads, and YES. Order a flute of Telmont Champagne and you’re off to the races. (It’s fun how Ron has just labeled the wines in an old-school fashion on the menu as brut Champagne, white, lighter red, and bigger red, but of course he has selected some special pours—and you can ask what they are).
The current PrimeBird pop-up is inspired by Kim’s deep love for House of Prime Rib and that entire classic experience, but here, the table-side salad service doesn’t spin, and features green garlic Green Goddess dressing on gorg Little Gems that almost seem grown in the wild, along with housemade farro sourdough bread and butter. I loved the next-level service touch of the chilled silverware, so Continental.
The main event is a parade of dishes: your handmade ceramic plate comes with a fully loaded mini baked potato (a “mini baker”), über-creamy creamed spinach, and rosy, juicy, and exquisitely tender slices of wet-aged Flannery Beef prime rib, all resting in a petite pond of au jus. This one is for the beef lovers!
You will eat and dip and dunk every last bite. (Take a peek at my Instagram Reel to view the entire spread!)
How is this only $80 per person (plus tax, 16% service charge, 6% Healthy SF)? It’s such an abundant and luxe experience. PrimeBird is a limited pop-up, so book your spot while you can (August reservations just opened!). Reserve here. NightJar is open Tue–Thu 5pm–8pm (when the space isn’t hosting other pop-ups or private events). 334 Gough St.
Owners and couple Kris Toliao and Yuka Ioroi of Cassava in North Beach also love a classic American steakhouse menu, so they’re launching Tomahawk Thursdays this Thursday August 1st. The special weekly menu features a 30 oz. tomahawk steak with miso butter and local wasabi jus ($145), plus $10 sides, like Yorkshire pudding baked in a skillet, an iceberg wedge salad with Devil’s Gulch Ranch bacon and blue cheese, and summery dishes like Brentwood corn, and Jimmy Nardello peppers with roasted potatoes.
Cassava is also offering food-and-wine pairing specials on Fridays, and for the first half of August (August 2nd and 9th), they’re featuring Obsidian Wine Co. Enjoy four bites and wine tastes for just $45! Check out the menus and make a reservation here. 401 Columbus Ave. at Vallejo.
Every time Brooklyn chef Eric Huang’s Pecking House pop-up returns to SF at Lord Stanley, I can’t resist the call of that damn Tianjin chile-fried chicken. And while I’m eating it, I never want the moment to end. The just-right heat and hit of sweetness and satisfying cronch of the deeply burnished exterior are literally intoxicating. Last week, a takeout dinner of the fried chicken (half-hen for $19, and it travels so well) and a Little Gem salad with buttermilk dressing ($8) with green garlic and a flurry of furikake (brills) were a phenomenal pairing and a highlight of my week. (The spice level was a little less hot than I recall from last time, so if you’re concerned about it being too hot, fear not.)
If you missed Pecking House’s July pop-up (I wrote about it back on July 8th), good news: it’s running again August 4th to 31st! You can reserve a table or order takeout here.
In the meantime, Lord Stanley’s Carrie and Rupert Blease’s friend Ollie Dabbous of London’s Michelin-starred Hide restaurant will be taking over the kitchen this week with a fab tasting menu (fig leaf granita, wow, you can see it all here) and à la carte options, now until August 3rd. Reservations available here. 2065 Polk St. at Broadway.
The Lights Are Unbelievably Out at SF’s Iconic Bayshore Diner, Silver Crest Donut Shop
Oh man, I can’t believe the famously never-closed Silver Crest Donut Shop—which has been open daily since 1970 (even through the pandemic!)—has actually closed (via SF Standard via Facebook). UPDATE: Star reader Karen Z. wrote in to tell me a poster on the Bernalwood Facebook Discussion page said owner George Giavris (who is 84 years old) is sadly in the hospital. Mission Local did some excellent reporting speaking with neighboring businesses, and word is the Giavris family will decide whether or not to reopen the Silver Crest after George is released from the hospital. Best wishes for his speedy recovery.
This frozen-in-time, old-school diner has been a fixture on Bayshore and a favorite of kitsch lovers and breakfast-goers and night owls for decades. But, if they decide to close permanently, I’m happy to think owners George and Nina Giavris can finally put their feet up and rest. Raise a glass of ouzo to this hard-working Greek couple and their longtime crew. (Be sure to read this wonderful homage by Chris Colin for Alta.) 340 Bayshore Blvd.
SF’s Sole Nigerian Food Business, Eko Kitchen, Says Farewell for Now
I was sorry to receive this note (you can read her post here) from chef-founder Simileoluwa “Simi” Adebajo of Eko Kitchen—a Nigerian food pop-up, caterer, event host, and brand—that she is pressing pause on the business after six years. If you ordered the tablehopper holiday gift bag last year, you got to try Eko Kitchen’s kicky oba ate din din sauce. Adebajo has been splitting her time between SF and LA lately, and says, “We will still be open (part time) for large catering orders and any scheduled events through the end of the year. We will also have some merch for sale soon if you’d like to rep the brand!”
There will be a farewell party with a Nigerian dinner on Sunday August 25th at Executive Order. She also adds: “I am in search of roles that will allow me to use my many skills. So if you know someone looking to hire a transformational leader and stellar strategist with a first class honors bachelors degree in economics and a Msc in International and Development Economics, please let me know. This is not farewell forever but goodbye for now. I’ll be back to Eko Kitchen when I have the adequate capital and the right team to support me. I love you all and I am so thankful that you chose me as a leader for our community. 🇺🇸🇳🇬💕” Best wishes to you, Simi!
the lush
Local Winners at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards
Big congrats to longtime SF-based cocktails and spirits writer and educator, Camper English, who won Best New Cocktail or Bartending Book at the 2024 Tales of the Cocktail Foundation Spirited Awards® for The Ice Book: Cool Cubes, Clear Spheres, and Other Chill Cocktail Crafts. Bravo! Another local shout-out goes to The Buena Vista, which took home the 2024 Timeless U.S. Award, which is like a lifetime achievement award. In clear ice and Irish coffees we trust.
