letter from the tablehopper: July 1, 2008

Hey, guess who is actually writing a short(-ish) column this week? Shocking, but true. I'm actually on a plane coming back from Kalamazoo (no joke) from a one-day work gig for Kellogg's, and let's just say the five-hour plane ride from Chicago and one charged computer battery pack is about all I've got to write this thing. Sadly, there was no time to check out some Kalamazoo cuisine in the less than 24 hours I was there—we're talking airport and plane eatz, how tragic, but I was in love with all the green trees I saw, what a pretty state. Anyway, no review this week, I'm tired and outta time.

Fortunately, this week I have a few other people who did some writing for me (in the wino and the bookworm). In honor of the upcoming umami symposium mentioned in the socialite (I love this world we live in), we have a special wino topic this week, courtesy of Jessica Boyd, who is sharing her thoughts on umami in sake, and pairing sake with cheese.

So, let's rock. Speaking of rockin', yay, thanks to y'all who voted for me in this year's San Francisco magazine 2008 Best of the Bay Reader's Poll! While I am excited to be a winner, I am not sure what to do about the actual category I won: "Best Blog for Getting the Scoop on Food." Huh. Since many of you know tablehopper is NOT a blog (remember, this thing is emailed to you, it's an e-column, not a blog), does it mean I have to give the award back? Ha ha. Anyway, many thanks for all the votes, yo. Very cool. Congrats to all the winners.

Wishing you a happy Fourth o' July—it's shaping up to be yet another year of colored fog and clouds.

~Marcia

the chatterbox: July 1, 2008

Have you noticed some key chefs have not been around lately, or are mysteriously heading off to New York for quick jaunts? Yup, I've heard from various sources that we have quite the local lineup of chefs who have been flying to New York to compete on upcoming episodes of ~IRON CHEF~ on Food Network. Woot. Looks like there will be another chance to watch Chris Cosentino of Incanto, Jonnatan Leiva of Jack Falstaff, and Ravi Kapur of Boulevard. Also heard Nate Appleman of A16/SPQR and Mourad Lahlou of Aziza will be on too. Further rumors have David Kinch (Manresa) and Charles Phan (Slanted Door) also competing. All unconfirmed, but hey, but let's go West Coast! Will let you know when the chefs who are participating are final confirmed, and airdates are set!

The temporary ghost town of Jackson Square is suddenly getting some life back in it. Tumbleweeds, be gone! Not only is the Quince move into the Myth space looking on track, but per my little hint last week about Myth's former executive chef ~SEAN O'BRIEN~ coming back on the local scene, how about this: he's returning to his old neighborhood! At press time he didn't have the keys yet (due to happen today), but it looks like those keys will be opening the door to the Scott Howard space. The restaurant is going to get a little design refresh, and O'Brien said fall looks like a good time to plan on tasting his delicious dinners again (the part about the delicious dinners is all me, mind you). He said he's enjoyed the six-month break, but is really looking forward to getting back in the kitchen. I'll have more in coming weeks. 500 Jackson St. at Montgomery.

I was surprised to learn that ~JOEL HUFF~, one of my favorite local talents, resigned as chef de cuisine at Silks. Huff doesn't have any specific plans to announce, but he is looking for a new position. While the search for a new chef for Silks takes place, Joshua Nudd, the executive chef at Mandarin Oriental, San Francisco, will be stepping in; he recently came to the position from Chambers Kitchen, a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant in Minneapolis. Milan Drager, the previous executive chef at Mandarin Oriental SF, was promoted to the position of food and beverage director in November 2007, but during this interim time both he and Nudd will continue to oversee the dining experience at Silks. 222 Sansome St. at Bush, 415-986-2020.

Also in the downtown area, please note ~RUBICON~ has closed for their annual summer break, and will be back open next Tuesday July 8th. 558 Sacramento St. at Montgomery, 415-434-4100.

Another temporary change in hours: ~MODERN TEA~ in Hayes Valley will be narrowing its offerings for the next few weeks. The staff has a lot of projects to focus on right now, including a tea bar at Cavallo Point's Healing Art Center, their involvement with the Hayes Valley Neighborhood Parks Group, and owner Alice Cravens is also the tea curator for the upcoming Slow Food Nation. And more: they are also working on a tie-in providing lunch and afternoon service at a location south of market to open in September. So what does this all mean? Meal service at Modern Tea will be held back for the next few weeks, but you can still stop in for tea and light nibbles Saturdays and Sundays (2pm–7pm). Cravens can be contacted for wholesale and retail orders through the website, and you can also read more about the Modern Cooks program. 602 Hayes St. at Laguna, 415-626-5406.

The A16/SPQR folks have officially decided the placeholder name they used for the liquor license for their Dogpatch project is actually going to stick: ~URBINO~. (I dig it.) The opening date is still inconclusive: think January–March 2009 for now. The rest of the concept remains the same: focused on the cuisine of Le Marche, plus a food to-go component. I like having something like this to look forward to. 800 Minnesota St. at 20th St.

Things are chugging along for Ryan Scott at ~MISSION BEACH CAFÉ~. In case you were curious about his new menu, here you go: lunch includes sweet corn soup with avocado and tomato oil ($4 cup/$7 bowl); there's a salmon burger with asparagus, English peas, pancetta, avocado, aioli ($12.50); and a duck confit patty melt with smoked mozzarella, caramelized onions, and horseradish mustard sauce ($11). Dinner entrées include seared sea scallops with summer succotash, braised shiitake mushrooms, potato pureé ($23); and grilled pork loin with Israeli couscous, summer squash, cipollini onions, spiced plums ($24). Brunch brings dishes like soufflé pancakes with blueberry cream ($10); and the Mission Beach egg sandwich on a house-made English muffin with roasted tomato, caramelized onion, white cheddar, and potatoes ($7.50). Try to save room for some of Alan Carter's famed desserts (mmmm, pie). Open Mon–Fri at 7am for pastries and Blue Bottle coffee; lunch 11am–2:30pm, dinner Tue–Thu and Sun 5:30pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm. Brunch Sat–Sun 9am–2pm. The restaurant closes at 6pm on Mondays. 198 Guerrero St. at 14th St., 415-861-0198.

A tablehopper reader wrote in to tell me the famed green-glowin' steakhouse in the Mission, yes the historic ~PALACE STEAK HOUSE~, will be closing at the end of July, after 40 years in business. No more steak dinners on plastic trays and garlic bread and booths and free parking. Man. When I get a chance to investigate more I'll report back. 3047 Mission St. at 26th St., 415-647-2011.

Also in the Mission, does anyone have any intel about ~GEORGE'S BBQ~, yet another business opening on 24th Street? The name on the license is Jimmy Panagiotopoulos—anyone know this Greek fella, or have some details about the biz? Efharisto! 3231 24th St. at Capp.

~MISSION PIE~ has made a small move, and is now in a significantly bigger space on the corner of Mission and 25th Street, which means the construction of the on-site bakery is now underway in their old space. Destination Baking Company in Glen Park will continue baking goods for Mission Pie until the new bakery/kitchen is done in the fall (the target is September). Here's more from the folks on Chowhound, and you can read the Mission Pie website too. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St., 415-282-4743.

And now, some more Mission news: it looks like the ~SNACK BAR~ concept from the NOPA folks is in flux. No word on whether it will be Spanish tapas bar, or perhaps now a wine retail place. Stand by for more in coming weeks. 2495 Harrison St. at 21st.

Oh, and fellow Western Addition denizens: ~NOPALITO~, Nopa's upcoming fast-casual Mexican joint, is now looking like an October opening in the Falletti Foods/Broderick Place shopping center. We must wait a bit longer for the carnitas by the pound. (My waistline says thank God.) 306 Broderick St. at Oak.

Yes, even one more piece of Mission news (hey, sorry folks in the Richmond!): this weekend was ~LITTLE STAR PIZZA'S~ last time serving weekend lunch. Didn't seem to get enough traction to keep it going. 400 Valencia St. at 15th St., 415-551-7827.

Okay, okay, no more Mission. Let's go to SoMa, all right? Right. After the water disaster at ~OUT THE DOOR~ in the Westfield Centre, it looks like they are taking advantage of the closure to make some changes: more seating will be added, and a wine bar is in the works as well. Look for a reopening in mid-July or so. 865 Market St., 415-541-9913.

On the other side of town, ~THE GROVE CAFE~ in the Marina has finished their expansion and are now open. 2250 Chestnut St. at Scott, 415-474-4843.

Not tooooo far away, ~MARCHÉ ON THE SQUARE~, the new two-story food gourmet market and grocer in Ghirardelli Square is slated to open this Thursday (call before you head over there, things change!), and Bar Marche and Bar Marche Wine Bar are due to open next Wednesday July 9th. 900 North Point at Larkin, 415-359-0365.

After much ado, and no more Honeydoo, ~SWIRL CULTURE~ yogurt finally opened in North Beach on Sunday. P.S. Yogurtphreeks: there is a PDF coupon on the website for "buy three, and the fourth is free." 1400 Grant St. at Green, 415-397-9475.

On my way to Le Colonial's ten-year anniversary bash last week, I had a chance to peek at the now finished ~ASUKA RAMEN~, offering primarily ramen and curry dishes on the menu. It's a small and simple space, full of two-tops, plus a counter/bar, and a few other dishes like gyoza and donburi—everything is about $10 and under. They are just getting through their soft opening, expect an expanded menu as the days go on. 883 Bush St. at Taylor, 415-567-3153.

Some special meals and deals around town: ~YOSHI'S SAN FRANCISCO~ just launched Kanpai Time, a menu served in the bar/lounge area each night. The menu includes a number of small plates and sushi, like a soft shell crab "sandwich" of lettuce-wrapped tempura crab with chile lime aioli ($7); Kurobuta pork sausage with grilled baby Yukon potatoes and honey Dijon ($6); grilled baby back ribs with sweet miso glaze ($7); and a Japanese melon "cream soda" float with vanilla gelato ($6). There will also be beer, wine, sake and cocktail specials, a sake trio tasting for $18, and wine specials. 1330 Fillmore St. at Eddy, 415-655-5600.

~MAGNOLIA GASTROPUB AND BREWERY~ not only has a new look, but a new line-up each week. On Monday nights, executive chef Brandon Jew just started offering a seasonal/locally-sourced three-course dinner, priced under $30, available until it's gone. Every Tuesday through the summer, pints are $3, all day, with the occasional exception for limited release and special beers. (Mmmmm, beer.) On Wednesdays, you can "meet the brewers" (Dave and Ben) through the summer from 6pm–9pm to talk shop, answer questions, and drink more beer. Hic. Chef Brandon may be cooking a whole pig or two throughout the summer on Wednesdays too, stand by. Thursdays, fried chicken night is back! Bwok! $18, starting at 5pm, until it runs out. 1398 Haight St. at Masonic, 415-864-7468.

I had fun hanging out with author and chef ~JOYCE GOLDSTEIN~ last week at Americano celebrating the launch of Tony and Cathy Mantuano's book, Wine Bar Food, and now here's your chance to hang with Joyce: on Saturday July 12th, she will be signing books and talking about her latest book: Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of Salad Meals and Mix and Match Dressings at Bi-Rite Market from 3pm–5pm. Owner/chef Sam Mogannam will be preparing a salad from the book as well. 3639 18th St. at Dolores, 415-241-9760.

East Bay folks, you'll be happy to hear the area around Bakesale Betty's and Pizzaiolo is about to get even tastier. Daniel Olivella of B44 in Belden Place is going to be opening ~BARLATA~, an easygoing Catalan tapas spot, along with his wife, his B44 partners, and his cyclist pal Chechu Rubiera. He's moving into the former Silver Lion Buffet space (AKA Biggums to some), and hopes to be up and running by November. There will be around 65 seats, where you can order small plates plus some of his famous paellas, and while seated at the ten or so seats at the bar, you'll be able to munch on a variety of pintxos (bread and toothpick treats). Beer and wine. Look for dinner to start, with brunch on the weekend. 4901 Telegraph Ave. at 49th St., Oakland.

the lush: July 1, 2008

Another thing I noticed while gallivanting (read: barhopping) around Union Square last week: the bar formerly known as the ~RED ROOM~ in the Hotel Commodore (now a dormitory in the Academy of Art empire) has changed hands and has reopened. New look, new owners, and new name that I was asked to not mention juuuuuust yet. Gone is the redrum motif and twirling martini glass behind the bar: taking its place is more of a taupe color scheme, with taxidermy on the wall, vintage furnishings (including an animal print chaise), and some nice ladies behind the bar. I'll release the name of the bar and the players shortly. Open nightly 5pm–2am. 827 Sutter St. at Jones.

Buddy Camper English of Alcademics.com has confirmation on the rumor circling about New York's ~EMPLOYEES ONLY~ opening an SF location; owner Dushan Zaric has this to say, "We are currently not working on a SF Employees Only although it is in our plans to eventually open up an EO there...a lot of people have been asking but I have no idea how they got this information." Thanks for sleuthing, Camper!

Fans of suds, here's your chance to celebrate the 20th anniversary of ~GORDON BIERSCH~ beer, and for a week, no joke. There are all kinds of events (a few of the events are in Palo Alto and San Jose for you 650 and 408 folks), so for additional information and to purchase VIP tickets, visit www.gordonbierschrestaurant.com. Here's a recap of a couple of the events:

July 6th: Anniversary Brewer's Dinner hosted by Dan Gordon, 6pm–8pm, San Francisco Brewery Restaurant, 2 Harrison St., $60 per person. Cocktail reception and special anniversary toast, special beer and food tastings.

July 12th: Brewery Benefit Bash, 12pm–7pm, an all-you-can-eat and drink party for thousands of Bay Area residents at the original brewery and bottling facility in San Jose. Guests at the daylong celebration will munch on food, sip beer, and enjoy live music from Gregg Rolie. Tickets are $40, with proceeds benefiting the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation.

the wino: Jessica Boyd on Sake and Cheese Pairings

Jessica Boyd has been working in Japanese restaurants and studying sake for 10 years. She studies Japanese and looks forward to moving to Japan in a few years to live the good life in the countryside. After realizing her passion for sake, she sought out a job at Ozumo. Through many incarnations in her four years there, including server and sushi chef, she now finds herself the in-house sake expert and buyer. She also pours sake (and wine) every Tuesday at Corkage Sake & Wine Bar (next door to Café Abir and Tsunami Sushi Bar in the Western Addition).

Sake and Cheese: A New Frontier

Sake has always been somewhat of an approachable, friendly drink to me. It lends a comfortable (sometimes wild) hand to almost any situation. So when Kenzo Mabuchi of Tamanohikari Brewery in Kyoto, Japan asked me to get some blue cheese to pair with his Yamahai Ginjo, I have to admit the synapses were not firing. My life would never be the same.

Under careful consideration, some sake and cheeses have what is known as umami, the Fifth Flavor. In the West, we taste four states: salty, sour, sweet, and bitter. In the East, there are five tastes: dryness, sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and astringency. And crossing the borders we have the ever-elusive concept known as umami. A Japanese word combining umai (delicious) and mi (essence). So it's the essence of deliciousness? Uh huh.

Well, umami was actually "discovered" in 1908 by a researcher at Tokyo Imperial University named Kikunae Ikeda. After making a highly concentrated batch of dashi (broth) with konbu (seaweed) and katsuo bushi (dried fish flakes), Ikeda singled out the culprit: glutamates. A type of amino acid, these glutamates (when present) in a dish or single ingredient provide a delicious, savory, fullness of flavor or richness.

Perfect example: compare an unripe tomato to that of one vine-ripened, still warm from the sun's lovin' rays (OK, it doesn't have to be still warm). The unripe tomato just doesn't taste complete, whereas the ripe tomato makes you want to eat more, in fact, it makes you want to eat it like you would an apple.

Applying this concept to sake, one would say a very dry, clean sake is lower in umami than say one that is rounder, softer and more complex with a lingering finish. Both of these sakes have been made to taste exactly the way they do—no mistake. Are some of you asking, "How can there be amino acids in sake?" Well, my drink of choice is made from rice (and water, koji and yeast). When the proteins in the rice are breaking down, the amino acids remain. Sometimes, they are entirely eaten up by the hungry yeasts and sometimes they're not (depending on how long fermentation takes). The remaining amino acids then give the sake a robust, gamey, often, succulent flavor profile.

Moving on to cheese, however, generally speaking the more aged the cheese, the more umami. Think two year old Parmigiano Reggiano vs. fresh mozzarella. The parm has more depth of flavor than the mozzarella could ever dream of having. Both of these cheeses are living out their dharma perfectly. Having 1200mg of glutamates per 100g, Parmigiano Reggiano is still only second to Roquefort in technical umami content. This is why you see heaps of freshly grated parm on almost all Italian dishes—it adds that extra "mmmm."

Pairing sake and cheese can be a little tricky. But have fun with it. Taste is all very subjective, if it tastes good to you, go with it. I have provided a few pairings that I thought were great. Kanpai!

Tamanohikari Yamahai Ginjo With Pt. Reyes Original Blue (Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company)
Warming this sake gently allows it to open up and soften on the palate. The gaminess of the sake perfectly combines with the ripeness of the cheese, unfolding into a symphony in your mouth. Unqualified breads need not apply. Serve sake slightly warmed or room temperature.

Kamoizumi Nigori Ginjo With Roquefort and Honey
This sake is quite a treat. It's rich and creamy texture works wonderfully with that of the cheese. The sweetness of the nigori (cloudy) sake complements that of the tanginess in the blue veins. Sweet, smoky and salty, this cheese has it all. Add a touch of honey, and wow. Kamoizumi Nigori's complex structure can stand up to the many sensations of Roquefort. Serve sake well chilled.

Hou Hou Shu Sparkling Sake With Mt. Tam (Cowgirl Creamery)
One of the best sparkling sakes available, a refreshing beverage anytime. Soft, plentiful bubbles envelop the palate, adding just a touch of sweetness. The creaminess of the cheese is offset by the bubbles in a delicate manner. Subtle nuttiness is then welcomed by the sake's exquisite flavor profile including pear, cream, sweet rice, and banana. Serve sake well chilled.

Recommended sakes are available for purchase at Corkage Sake and Wine Shop, 1304 Fulton St. at Divisadero, 415-567-6503.

the socialite: Georgeanne Brennan, Meet the Authors Luncheon

Did you know the delightful food writer and author ~GEORGEANNE BRENNAN~ brought arugula to America? Good one, huh! Well, you can say thanks when she is signing her most recent book, A Pig in Provence, at a luncheon at the Salt House. (Yes, it's on the 15th, the day after Bastille Day.)

For $37 bucks (excluding tax and tip), you can have a glass of Champagne (included), a three-course, prix-fixe, French-inspired lunch by chef Robert Leva, and meet authors and Francophiles Georgeanne and her friend Cara Black (a well-known mystery writer living in Paris, author of Murder in the Rue du Paradis). Both authors will discuss their journeys as Americans living and writing in Paris and Provence. Salud!

Meet the Authors Luncheon
Tue., July 15, 2008

Salt House
545 Mission St.
Cross: 1st St.
San Francisco, CA 94105

415-543-8900
website

noon

please RSVP: 415-543-8900

$37 (excluding tax and tip)

the socialite: Umami Symposium

Thomas Keller of French Laundry, Hiro Sone of Terra and Ame, and Kunio Tokuoka of Japan's Kyoto Kitcho are joining together to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of ~THE DISCOVERY OF UMAMI~ by Dr. Kikunae Ikeda in Tokyo, Japan. The chefs will unite with leading food scientists and culinary experts to discuss and celebrate the fifth taste, umami.

To begin the symposium, culinary experts and scientists will discuss the impact of umami in a casual panel conversation. The panelists are Kathy Sykes, Ph.D. (professor of sciences and society, University of Bristol); Gary Beauchamp, Ph.D. (director, Monell Chemical Senses Center); John Prescott, Ph.D. (associate professor of psychology, The University of Newcastle); Harold McGee, Ph.D. (food writer and molecular gastronomist); Kunio Tokuoka (executive chef, Kyoto Kitcho); and Tim Hanni (Master of Wine and wine educator). Master of Ceremonies, Kathy Sykes, will mediate by engaging the panel of experts and the audience in a discussion about the importance of umami and its influence on the culinary industry.

Following the discussion, the internationally accredited chefs will serve a multi-course lunch to demonstrate umami (you can check out a PDF of the menu here.) Highlights of the menu will include seared Japanese spiny lobster, ginger-poached Georgia shrimp and watermelon salad, and salle d'agneau: lamb sous vide. Tim Hanni will introduce a number of wines at the luncheon to demonstrate how they can successfully be paired with umami-rich foods. (Umami is particularly prominent in ripe tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, cured ham, mushrooms, chicken soup, meat and fish.)

In honor of the event, and in case you are now really fired up for an umami-rich meal, Ame is also hosting an ~UMAMI CELEBRATION TASTING MENU~ from July 14th–August 3rd, 2008. The menu is $85, and with paired wine is an additional $65. The multi-course menu includes:

Ame Raw Three Ways:
ceviche with garum lime sauce
sea bass sashimi with ume plum vinaigrette
kampachi carpaccio with nuka pickles and ponzu

Corn Bisque with Lobster Tortelloni and Pesto Sauce

Broiled Sake Marinated Black Cod in Shiso Broth

Grilled Berkshire Pork on Carolina Gold Rice and Tomato "Risotto" with Vadouvan Sauce

Caramel Ice Cream with Shoyu Powder

Umami Symposium: New Frontiers of Taste
Mon., July 21, 2008

Hyatt Regency
5 Embarcadero Center
San Francisco, CA

11:30am–4:30pm

tickets

$100
$50 for students with valid student I.D.

Registration closes on Monday July 7th. No onsite registration.

the bookworm: Pete Mulvihill of Green Apple Recommends

Don't forget: this book is available at 20% off for tablehopper readers for two weeks following this mention at Green Apple Books—simply use the code "tablehopper" at checkout (either at the store or online) for your discount.

The run-up in food and gas prices has spurred many articles about people staying home, cooking more, trying to make their own food instead of eating out, etc. Why not take it one step further and make your own cheese, butter, yogurt, and more?

The Home Creamery by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley has you covered. It includes clear instructions and very simple recipes. I've bought (and never used) make-your-own cheese books before, but never gotten around to actually trying it. Partly to blame are my two-year-old twins—they love to "help" me cook, but patience is not their strong suit; they're more into scrambled eggs and banana bread than waiting for buttermilk to separate from cream.

While The Home Creamery includes some recipes requiring rennet or other specialty ingredients, other recipes are as simple as milk, vinegar, and salt (for ricotta), or cream and salt (for butter), so you don't necessarily need to get specialty ingredients or equipment. Sounds like fun, doesn't it?

The book, perhaps extraneously, also provides recipes for you to use your newly made creamery products as ingredients in other recipes. Perhaps that's just fluff that fills out the book, but the core of the book is worth the $16.95: clear, simple instructions to make your own creamery items. Enjoy (and feel free to drop off your surplus cheese at the store sometime in case I still don't get around to doing it myself)!

Thank you for reading.

the starlet: July 1, 2008

I heard that Macy Gray DJed for half an hour at Levende Lounge a little over a week ago.

Esai Morales (known from NYPD Blue) was spotted having a good time with some friends at Le Colonial's ten-year anniversary bash last week.

letter from the tablehopper: June 24, 2008

Hello amigos. This city’s weather is so schizo: on Friday I was enjoying a nighttime picnic on my roof with a friend, throwing back a bottle of Rias Baixas albariño (perfect with a taco salad, how hi-lo fabulous), and on Monday, I was ready for some steaming pho. While the heat was still in full effect, one place that served to be the perfect (and somewhat secret) spot for and outdoor lunch was a revisit to Ironwood BBQ—can’t beat the fresh air, the view of the green, and yes, the pulled pork. See ya there during the next heat wave.

Also had a wonderful meal at Masa’s on Saturday, since Richard Reddington was in the house for one night only with chef Gregory Short in honor of Masa’s 25th anniversary year. Can you say Manila clams with chorizo and a saffron-curry nage, with petrale sole over jasmine rice? Crazy combo that magically worked. I learned there’s a big event coming up, bringing back a number of former Masa’s chefs—stand by!

Congrats to Camille H. who won the tickets to this Thursday’s Best of the Bay Area party. See y’all there?

And this is kind of a fun one: Citysearch asked some folks around town what food is better than sex? Yup, yours truly has her answer in there; for the reveal, click here.

And lastly, you know those products you sometimes buy, convincing yourself it’s okay, just a little splurge, although you know it’s totally and utterly ridiculous to buy it? Well, I found my new bad habit: 479° Popcorn. I picked up a box of the Pimentón de La Vera version at Blue Fog Market, and am now hooked. A $5.69 box of popcorn, what is happening to me? SO bougie. Anyway, it’s beyond delicious. Tangy. Sweet. Spicy. Damn.

Oh, and happy Pride everyone. Rock out, celebrate, say it loud, say it proud.

Yours,

~Marcia

the chatterbox: June 24, 2008

Been hearing some rumblings about ex-Myth chef ~SEAN O’BRIEN’S~ next gig—the ink isn’t dry so he asked me to wait a week. Stand by. Let’s just say if it all goes through, he’ll be back in SF. And that’s all I am allowed to say!

Meanwhile, my teaser proved itself to be true: it is close to confirmed that ~QUINCE~ is moving into the former Myth space on Pacific. So, no yelling from Gordon Ramsey, ha ha. Stand by for the what (Will they close their current space? Sell it?), the when, and more.

Moving into the now-closed ~PJ’S OYSTER BED~ space in the Sunset will be a new restaurant from Jose Calvo-Perez of local favorite Fresca. He said he’s not sure if the new restaurant will carry the Fresca name—he’s considering naming it after his daughter, Juliana. Either way, the food will be his family’s trademark modern Peruvian cuisine with Latin flair—look for an opening in January or February. I’ll follow up with more details as they become finalized. 737 Irving St. at 8th Ave.



More on the Peruvian tip: last week I had a chance to meet the exceedingly kind and pretense-free celeb chef Gastón Acurio, who has restaurants in seven countries, including Peru, Chile, Columbia, Ecuador, Mexico, Spain and Venezuela, with plans to open in Costa Rica and Brazil. He is opening his first restaurant in the U.S., ~LA MAR CEBICHERÍA PERUANA~ (it’s the project going into a 100-year-old building at Pier 1½, just a smidge north of the Ferry Building). I toured the space last week, and it’s going to be quite the spread, with a pisco bar/lounge area (up to 65 seats) where you can get a pisco sour, plus all kinds of other pisco drinks, and graze on small apps to share, then there’s the ceviche bar further inside, serving about ten kinds made with local fish that will highlight a variety of Peruvian chiles, plus some tiraditos, all served on a large bar (around 30 seats) of up-lit blue glass. There is also a spacious dining room in the back (88 seats) flanking the exhibition kitchen, turning out contemporary-Peruvian fare, plus a big outdoor patio overlooking the water that will have a fire pit. It’s rather spiffy.

The chef de cuisine (Jose Luis, who opened the first La Mar with Acurio), the pastry chef, and floor manager are all coming from Acurio’s restaurants in Peru. Local wine guru Emmanuel Kemiji is consulting on the wine list, finding perfect wine pairings for the dishes, and in fact is consulting with Acurio on all his restaurants. La Mar is slated to open at the end of August or early September. Oh, and if you understand Spanish, Acurio has a series called Aventura Culinaria that you can watch on YouTube.

So, I can finally release the news about another Isaac Mogannam project in the Mission (he’s the one behind the other projects I have mentioned here: Grub and Zaytoon, and the upcoming Booth on Polk Street); moving into the Zain's Mediterranean Cuisine space, next door to Big Mouth Burgers, will be ~PHAT PHILLY~. Think truly authentic Philly cheesesteaks: an Amoroso Philly Roll (baked in Philly), with a choice of provolone, American cheese, or Whiz (if you must), sweet banana peppers and hot cherry peppers, and the twist is that these will be made with quality beef and chicken. Mogannam stated he will be doing his best to use local produce, if not 100% organic ingredients. There will be several options for vegetarians, including a portobello cheesesteak, a veggie cheesesteak, and a tofu cheesesteak. Also expect fries, both regular and crisscut (waffle fries), served as is, with cheese, or get them topped with Whiz and chili (antacid not included). Also on the menu: Buffalo wings in Frank's RedHot Sauce or BBQ-flavored, milkshakes, Tastykake snacks, Goldenberg's Peanut Chews, Herr's Pretzels, and lastly, Frank's Black Cheery Wishniak Soda, all Philly favorites. Phat Philly is due to open sometime between early July and early August. 3388 24th St. at Valencia.

And now, an export from the Inner Richmond: Eater broke the story that ~SUSHI BISTRO~ on Balboa is opening a second location on 24th Street, just next door to the St. Francis Fountain. It’s going to be a complete build out, so the opening isn’t slated to happen until the beginning of 2009. Look for a similar format to the original location, with an extended sake list. Like I said, 24th Street is shaping up to be the new Valencia. 2809 24th St. at York.

A tablehopper Missionite/hipster informs me that ~UDUPI PALACE~ opened this weekend in the former Firecracker space. Yes folks, San Francisco’s only South Indian places (two) are a block away from each other. Madness, I tell you. Open Tue–Sun for lunch and dinner, closed Mondays. 1007 Valencia St. at 21st St., 415-970-8008.

I got word that the colorful ~LOLO~ in the Mission has discontinued weekend brunch. 3234 22nd St. at Bartlett, 415-643-5656.

But, one door closes and other opens, because ~LINGBA~ in Potrero Hill is kicking off brunch on Saturday, July 12th. The menu seems mostly lunchy, but the few brunch dishes include Kurobuta pork hash and eggs, coconut buckwheat pancakes, a Thai-style omelet with green onion, ground chicken, and spicy green chili sauce, and a mushroom tart with a poached egg on top. They win for one of the most “gotta try it” morning cocktails I’ve seen in a while: the Bacon & Eggs Bloody Mary. Here’s the recipe in case you feel like experimenting at home: it’s kind of an all-in-one drink if I ever saw it. Breakfast of champions for sure. Brunch hours will be 11am–3pm. 1469 18th St. at Connecticut, 414-355-0001.

Bacon & Eggs Bloody Mary:

2 oz Tito’s handmade vodka
4 oz fresh pressed tomato juice
1 slice of extra crispy Marin Sun Farms bacon
.5 oz Worcestershire sauce
.5 oz Golden Mountain sauce
juice of ½ lemon
2 quail egg yolks
4 dashes Tabasco sauce
pinch of coarse sea salt
pinch of crushed black peppercorn
fresh grated horseradish

In glass shaker combine lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Golden Mountain sauce, salt, pepper, Tabasco, and horseradish. Add tomato juice and vodka, then fill shaker with ice. Stir all ingredients, then pour into a tall Collins glass. Carefully float quail eggs on top and add the bacon.

~UVA ENOTECA~ in the Lower Haight is starting their weekend brunch on Saturday July 5th. Hours will be 10am–3pm every Sat–Sun. 568 Haight St. at Steiner.

Fellow fans of the teas at Namu, or folks who live in the Inner Richmond nabe, may be already familiar with the Aroma Tea Shop, where you can sit for the free tea tasting and education session, and then once you’re hooked on a new kind, you can buy up some tea for home. After a scouting walk in Russian Hill, I have learned Aroma is expanding to Polk Street, opening a second location called ~AROMA TEA 2~ in the former Cafe Lambretta space. If all goes according to plan, it will open in mid to late July, and will not only have a tea tasting bar, and tea available for sale, but they will also have brewed tea to go (including iced tea with fresh fruit), plus some tables where customers can sit and enjoy tea on their own time. The tables will mimic ones common in China, with a built-in sink and heater for the kettle, so customers can sit and do their own tea service. 1806 Polk St. at Washington.

A big thanks to Thy Tran who has an update on Bay Area Bites about what is happening to the ~HEART OF THE CITY FARMERS’ MARKET~ at the UN Plaza. I love my Wednesday market, and hope it continues to exist—it’s important to a lot of people. I’ll continue to post updates here on the situation.

A few more details about the ~URBAN TAVERN~ project that Laurent Manrique and Chris Condy of C&L Partners have taken over: first, Donna Scala is still involved in the project, and second, the executive chef is Patrick Kehler, who served as chef de cuisine at Aqua, and was also at Circolo Restaurant. Look for Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, and an opening in early August. The restaurant will be open daily from 11:30am until late. 333 O'Farrell St. at Mason, 415-923-4400.

After what has seemed like ages, ~LONG BAR & BISTRO~ has finally opened in the Fillmore Grill space. The menu reportedly includes some straightforward classics, like calamari, mussels, fish and chips, sliders, ahi tuna tartare, plus tater tots. tablehopper reader Carla says, “I was at Long Bar last night (finally!) for drinks... they did such a nice job! I love how they remodeled—completely changed the location of the bar (big improvement).” But another reader was kvetching to me about a few things, so all I can say is a SOFT OPENING=caveat emptor. There’s no voicemail, so I have idea what their hours are, sorry. Yet. 2298 Fillmore St. at Clay, 415-440-1700.

And now, menu watch! ~PRES A VI GLOBAL CUISINE AND WINE BAR~ has added entrée-sized dishes in addition to their array of small plates. One Letterman Drive, near the corner of Chestnut and Lyon Streets, Presidio, 415-409-3000.

~SPRUCE~ is now offering a Harvest Menu at lunch, a prix-fixe three-course meal and optional wine pairing. The menu is seasonal, and currently features braised spring onions, pancetta-wrapped day boat scallops, and for dessert, pannacotta with market blueberries. The menu is $30 without wine, and $45 with. (Diners may also opt for a half wine pairing if they just want “a splash.”) 3640 Sacramento St. at Spruce, 415-931-5100.

~LUCE~ has kicked off Sunday Suppers, a “farm to table” tasting menu inspired by Crenn’s Saturday visits to the farmers’ market. $45 per person, and $65 with wine pairings. InterContinental Hotel San Francisco, 888 Howard St. at Fifth St., 415-616-6566.

Some cool events coming up: Meatpaper and Gastronomica, two independent-minded magazines exploring the intersections of food and culture, are celebrating the publication of their summer issues with a lively evening of artistic food and food-centric art called ~SUMMER FEAST~. The event will feature tastings from local chefs and purveyors (chef Staffan Terje/Perbacco, chef Leif Hedendal, chef Chris Kronner/Serpentine, chef Scott Youkilis/Maverick, The Fatted Calf, Prather Ranch Meat Co.), as well as wine and cocktails (Verge Syrah, La Fee Absinthe, Rhum Clement, Bluecoat Gin, Trumer Pils, and more), an art exhibition, and live music from Gaucho. Sunday July 20th, from 6pm–9pm. Tickets are $25 per person, and may be purchased online via credit card or PayPal. A limited number of tickets will be sold at the door. Event is at Perbacco Restaurant, 230 California St. at Battery.

The Commonwealth Club has a slew of great events, including this ~BAY GOURMET PANEL: WOMEN CHEFS CONFIDENTIAL~ on Monday June 30th, featuring a very special panel of women who have had a huge impact on the San Francisco dining scene as it is today: Loretta Keller, Marsha McBride, Nancy Oakes, Gayle Pirie, Judy Rodgers, and Joyce Goldstein. 5:30pm reception, 6pm program; members free, $18 non-members. Read more and order tickets here.

And then in July is the summer Platforum series, ~HOW WE EAT~, including Alice Waters on July 31st, plus a bunch more events after that. Read all about the series here.

Opening in downtown Oakland on September 1st in the former Savannah's Place (a Chinese and Vietnamese restaurant) will be ~KAFFIR~ from Amy Torgerson and Lejla Borovac. It will be a casual, quick-service restaurant offering Southeast Asian street food with a California twist, including some apps, salads, soups, and rice or noodle bowls made with free-range meat and poultry, and sustainable seafood. Eco-friendly building materials as well as biodegradable packaging will be used during the development and operation of KAFFIR. Torgerson is a graduate of the CCA and has worked at Limon, Lark Creek Inn, Costanoa Resort, and RNM, while Borovac will be running the front of house (her background includes Long Tan in Brooklyn, New York, as well as Cha Cha Cha, Chow, and RNM). The restaurant will be open for lunch Mon–Fri, with extended hours in the months following the opening. 578 14th St. at Clay, Oakland.

And coming this winter to the Glenview District will be ~MARZANO~, a neighborhood pizzeria joint from John Hurley, Justin Hafen, and Scott Sasaki of Garibaldi’s. The petite space is undergoing a complete build-out, and should be open in November, with a food-fired oven and about 40 seats. In addition to Neapolitan pizzas, there will also be a fish, meat, and pasta entrée each night, plus salads, and full liquor. The name of the executive chef can’t be released yet since he is currently employed elsewhere in the Bay Area and hasn’t given notice. Dinner nightly, and open continuously on the weekends from 10am–10pm. 4214 Park Blvd. at Glenfield, Oakland.

Got a hot tip? You know I'd love it (and you). Just reply to this email!

fresh meat: Conduit

It’s funny how restaurants can educate you, or literally make you eat your words. Back in the beginning of the New Year, in my annual missive “The Bore,” I declared how tired I was becoming of open kitchens. I ended up getting a lot of flack from some chef pals for that comment, who brought up the very valid point that it’s nice to see your customer and be able to interact with the room, instead of being locked away in the literal back of house. Point taken.

When I wrote the piece, I was actually thinking of the newly opened ~CONDUIT~ and how I didn’t like looking at the garbage and recycling in the corner while eating my winter chicory salad. Just too much kitchen reality. But fast forward: they have since covered the dishwashing and garbage area up with a curtain, and well well well, two of the three times I have eaten at CONDUIT, look who has parked herself at the counter overlooking the kitchen line.

They are great ringside seats, and rather hot ones too (just watch how the crew here chugs water), but I did reconsider my take on open kitchens. Watching the line hustle is one hell of a thing to witness, and really makes you appreciate the dance that goes into making your dinner. So fascinating, it’s hard to focus on conversation with your dining partner. It’s now probably my favorite seat in the restaurant.

Munch munch munch. (That’s me, eating my words.)

This restaurant has brought up its fair share of controversy, from the edgy urban design from Stanley Saitowitz, to its escalated price point in a location that is better known for rock than rabbit. The place is full of glistening copper pipe, the conduit, if you will. One friend has called it a gay prison, while another liked how the pipes assist in segmenting the rather spacious room into various seating areas and alcoves. It’s definitely a statement.

God bless the carpeted floor that helps dampen the sound, and it’s a pleasure to have some space in between the tables, allowing for actual conversation (the scintillating part is up to you, darlings). I do wish the bar was easier to perch at (hello, the liquors and cocktails here are enough to make me hang out for hours, but the tiny bar and ledge don’t really allow for it), and while we’re on ergonomics, the bench seating along the back wall can get a mite uncomfortable after a couple hours. (Pillows please, perhaps? Because my booty isn’t providing quite enough cushion, although it should.)

Oh yeah, and let’s talk about the infamous bathrooms. Again, it’s another case of men designing bathrooms women don’t like to use (architects/designers behind frisson and Slanted Door, I am talking to you). The opaque glass partitions between the stalls are a bit nerve-wracking to say the least: can that person see me? I can kind of see them. And the communal sink thing, well, it drives me up a wall. I don’t like to reapply my lipstick in front of random men. What happens in the ladies room stays in the ladies room. At least the stalls are now designated which are male and female.

Okay, let’s move on to why I really go to restaurants: to eat. (And yes, to drink.) I’ve enjoyed watching executive chef Justin Deering’s menu evolve through the seasons, and stylistically the somewhat haute plating and duos and trios that were originally featured have been dialed back a bit. Deering’s background at Boulevard and Jeanty at Jack’s is apparent with some Frenchie execution and ingredients making appearances here and there, but he has a playful spin on things that is definitely his own.

The starters aren’t cheap, most hover at an $11 average, so don’t let the Valencia Street address fool you. But the quality ingredients and work that goes into each dish aren’t exactly Valencia Street either. One place to begin is with the little gem salad with a creamy green goddess dressing; I’ve tried a couple variations, once with radish and hazelnuts ($9), and now the little chilled wedges are accompanied by a timbale of Dungeness crab salad ($12).

The wintertime pork belly and squab dishes have made way for a scrumptious execution of quail ($14) served two ways: it’s initially cooked sous vide, and then the pan-seared execution is served on a fried green tomato, while the buttermilk-fried piece rests over a magically ripe (wow, in June!) and flavorful purple Cherokee tomato. I liked the little side of bacon and chive ranch dressing, and peppery watercress, too.

The kitchen has come up with some pastas that regulars are not letting them take off the menu, including the homemade tortellini filled with braised oxtail ($12), resting in a broth that tastes like French onion soup (the magic of braising liquid), all topped with a crispy round of Gruyere, a fun twist on the usual au gratin melted cheese topping. The house-made fettuccine dish ($12) also changes—a delicious variation was in the winter, with a decadently deep yellow-yolked egg in the middle, and shaved black truffle on top; now it comes with a beef and pork sugo (on my “to try” list).

About that egg: it comes from owner Sydney Weinstein of Pauline’s Pizza next door (they raise eggs for the restaurant), and the Pauline’s Pizza garden is also providing most of the greens, like the arugula-like sylvetta. What a cool partnership.

Mains are nicely composed, and the flavor pairings are unique and well thought out. I especially loved the grilled walu ($19) with cannellini beans, fried Castelvetrano olives, and crispy house-cured guanciale, and a recent dish of roasted halibut ($26) with a hearty base of braised artichoke, maitake mushrooms, and fresh greens totally satisfied—nice acidic kick from some Meyer lemon relish, too.

I am missing the trio of lamb ($28) I had back in February (meow on the loin topped with piquillo pepper), but it’s the fact that the menu keeps changing with the seasons that will make me want to return. And the menu is also evolving: the apps remain a bit more “dressy,” while the mains are becoming more “business casual” and focused on satisfaction, a smidge less on complicated execution.

No, not all the dishes are perfect (I’ve been served fish a touch overcooked, salad overdressed, pasta underdone, a sauce under-seasoned) but all in all I have found a lot of care goes into these dishes, with ingredients that taste fresh, and respected. And worked out into delicious combinations.

Some folks have complained about portion size, but I have found them to be just right. Perhaps it’s all a ploy to help save room for dessert, because we have a new pastry chef star in our midst: Majkin Klare. She is wildly talented, and knocks me out with her bright flavors and artful presentations. Wait until you try her homemade ice creams and sundaes. My friend went nuts over the vacherin, an “adult ice cream sandwich” with strawberry in the middle, while the sundae of sweet corn ice cream, burnt salted caramel, and candied popcorn totally brought back childhood flavors (and enjoyment) to me. All are $8, make sure everyone at the table gets their own so you can taste and compare.

Oh, yeah, and about the bar. The inventiveness continues, under the guidance of bar manager Reza Esmaili, who has charmed me with a number of clever cocktails here, but totally wowed me with the Yerba Buena gimlet ($11), made with Square One cucumber vodka, Hendrick’s Gin (yes, homeboy mixed vodka and gin, and man, does this drink rock), plus mint and lime. Well-executed classics are also in the midst, from a Sazerac to a slowly stirred Manhattan ($10). Drink up.

I guess my palate lines up with GM/wine director Brian Gavin’s, because I’ve savored a number of wines off his list, and they all seem to pair quite well with the food. There are a bunch of Euro vinos (and ones from our backyard) to choose from, and anyone can find something to fit their wallet; one night, all the whites by the glass were under $10, nice. And every time my wine has been served at the proper temp. I gotta say, I love all the Schott Zweisel stemware—sexy stuff.

Service is friendly and efficient, and while the kitchen can occasionally get backed up, folks on the floor handle it well and check in. I like the entire team working here—you can tell everyone is working really hard to make it all happen.

One thing to note: there’s a valet lot across the street (man, the parking is the WORST in this neighborhood), but the lot says they close at 10pm, so that can be kind of annoying. Just tell them you want to leave your car in the unattended lot if you plan to stay later.

CONDUIT
280 Valencia St.
Cross: 14th St.
San Francisco, CA 94103

415-552-5200
website

Sun–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm
Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm

Closed Mondays

Apps $9–$14
Entrées $22–$26
Desserts $8

the lush: June 24, 2008

Whatcha doing tonight, Tuesday June 24th? ~CHEF TONY MANTUANO OF THE CHICAGO RESTAURANT SPIAGGIA AND HIS WIFE CATHY~ are hosting an event on the outdoor patio of Americano Restaurant and Bar at the Hotel Vitale to celebrate their new cookbook, Wine Bar Food. The cocktail party kicks off at 6pm, and will feature tasty wine bar food from recipes in the cookbook paired with award-winning Italian wines. Autographed copies of the newly released book will be available to attendees at a special discount. 6pm–7:30pm, $18 per person. Reservations for this event must be made in advance by calling 415-278-3777. 8 Mission St. at Embarcadero.

This Thursday June 26th, ~PLUMPJACK CAFE~ is hosting a four-course winemaker dinner from executive chef Rick Edge and with CADE winery's Anthony Biagi, and will include the first vintage of the CADE Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. The evening will begin with a reception at 6pm in the PlumpJack Cafe Courtyard, followed by dinner at 7pm in the private dining room. $95 per person. Call 415-440-1133 for reservations. 3127 Fillmore St. at Filbert, 415-563-4755.

This Saturday, June 28th, is the ~ST. GEORGE SPIRITS /HANGAR ONE DISTILLERY~ open house from 1pm–6pm; tickets are still available but moving fast. They will be celebrating this year's release of the Fraser River Raspberry Vodka and the brand-new still (which will hopefully be installed and doing its maiden distillation run). The stills will be running most of the day, allowing a rare opportunity to see the process up close with a live distillation. Entrance will include will include three lil’ cocktails, their spirits (including the new whiskey release), and the iced vodka luges. Music and hors d'oeuvres will be supplied throughout the day to keep everyone upright. They will also have a special "Absinthe Den" area where they will be pouring the Absinthe, Heirloom Apple Brandy, and the DeProfundis 20-year old Pear Brandy in a lounge setting. Access to this area is an additional $10.

There is free shuttle service to and from the distillery on the legendary Mexican Bus starting at 12:30pm at the West Oakland BART station, and continuing at 1:30pm, 2:30pm, 3:30pm, with the last pick-up at 4:30pm. For those of you looking to take advantage of the East Bay Ferry from San Francisco, the Mexican Bus will also be stopping by the Alameda Main Street ferry building at approximately 12:15pm, 1:50pm and 3:50pm. Tickets are $35 at the door. This is a 21 and over event. Please bring your picture I.D.! 2601 Monarch St., Alameda, tasting room: 510-864-0635, main: 510-769-1601.

Good timing on this piece of news considering it’s Pride Week: the bar most Castro visitors and locals have long-known as The Pendulum, which recently had an awning with a (thankfully) short-lived scary color scheme pronouncing it the 18th Street Bar, is now going to be ~TOAD HALL~. Here’s a pic of the new awning and be sure to read all the way to the end of the detailed history of the Castro’s first dance club, which seems to be staging a return. Not sure when the opening is, stand by. 4146 18th St. at Collingwood.

the socialite: The Secrets of Salsa

Want another culinary trick up your sleeve? Take ~THE SECRETS OF SALSA: A GUIDED TOUR THROUGH MEXICO'S CULINARY FOUNDATIONS~ at La Cocina and learn how to make real authentic salsa. Chefs from La Cocina will talk participants through four stations that begin with an introduction to the basics of salsa making—all of these salsas are designed to complement summer cooking.

Culinary director Jason Rose will walk participants through an outdoor cooking/grilling refresher course that will begin with tips on getting the perfect grill marks and end with a perfectly cooked protein (be it beef, chicken, or seafood) to go with the salsas. There will also be summer cocktails, and the event will wrap with a delicious sit-down dinner paired with wines.

The chefs include Dilsa Lugo of Los Cilantros and Veronica Salazar of El Huarache Loco. tablehopper readers get $20 off the $110 ticket price, and a large portion of the ticket is tax-deductible.

The Secrets of Salsa
Wed., June 25, 2008

La Cocina
2948 Folsom St.
Cross: 25th St.
San Francisco, CAA

website  


tickets are $110
$20 off for tablehopper readers
email caleb@lacocinasf.org or sign up at Brown Paper Tickets

the socialite: Bay Area Local Food Guide

The ~BAY AREA LOCAL FOOD GUIDE~ is about to be released, giving the public access to information on over a thousand farms, farmers’ markets, CSAs, restaurants, retailers, institutions, and specialty grocery stores that feature local food within the nine counties of the Bay Area. A celebration in honor of the guide’s release will be held at the Officer’s Club at Fort Mason, and will feature samples of some of the finest local food and wines (you can check out the entire list of participants here).

Doors open at 4:30pm, and a local food panel begins at 6:30pm; speakers include Paula Jones (SF Dept. of Environment), Sibella Kraus (Sage), Alison Negrin (John Muir Health), Simon Richard (Bi-Rite Market) and Jered Lawson (Pie Ranch). Moderated by Bill Fujimoto of Monterey Market. At 7:30pm is dessert, plus farmer and chef/retailer networking. (Event runs until 8:30pm.) 21 and over.

The Bay Area Buy Fresh Buy Local Food Guide is free and will be distributed via retailers listed in the guide, farmers’ markets and at special events. Additionally, the guide is available online for downloading and in a searchable format at buylocalca.org.

Bay Area Second Edition Local Food Guide Release
Thu., June 26, 2008

1 Fort Mason
Officer’s Club
(entry streets are on
Franklin and Bay)
San Francisco, CA

510-832-4625
website  

4:30pm–8:30pm

tickets $30
buy tickets

the starlet: June 24, 2008

Okay, now this is what I’m talking about! Becks and Posh, yup, David and Victoria Beckham, were spotted lunching with their kids at One Market Restaurant. Posh actually ate something: the Dungeness crab on greens. (Not sure if she purged later, though.) When the family finished with lunch, they exited quietly out the rear entrance of the restaurant, flanked by two bodyguards. David was in town following the Los Angeles Galaxy soccer match against the San Jose Earthquakes on June 15th (LA won 3:0) and was participating in a Macy’s signing event. Becks was reportedly looking just as hot in person as in his ads.

Katie Couric recently dined at luella with her two daughters, tucking into the ahi tuna tartare tacos, lamb, pasta, and baked peppers and eggplant dish. According to the staff, she was incredibly sweet and friendly (as expected).

Dave Chappelle, who has become a regular at Straits Restaurant in San Francisco when he’s in town doing comedy shows, dined with actor/rapper Mos Def on Tuesday night at the restaurant. Word.

And he may be a local dude, but plenty of ladies (and gents) never seem to tire of hunky Benjamin Bratt sightings: he was spotted having breakfast at Toast on Church Street on Sunday, with his pretty wife, Talisa Soto, and cute kids in tow.

the matchmaker: June 24, 2008

Angelina’s Catering is looking for a nice, fun person who loves to cook and plays well with others. We are a small café and put out delicious, fresh food everyday and we have a good catering following as well.

If you would like to work mostly days, with one weekend day off, and are experienced at managing people and cooking well with an appreciation for good food, this could be the right fit for you. Please send your resume to celia@angelinascatering.com, we would love to meet you.

Compensation: $15/hour, $20 for catered events.

letter from the tablehopper: June 17, 2008

Whew, what a week. Last Thursday I had a blast on View From the Bay, live in the studio chatting with the super-friendly hosts, Spencer Christian and Janelle Wang, about three of my favorites for semi-affordable and sexy dining: Namu, Laiola, and Lolo. You can check out the segment here.

Congrats to last week’s winners of the Grilled Pizzas and Piadinas book giveaway, Monique and Harmony! (Thank you all who entered.) Now you get another chance at fabulous prizes: I just scored two general admission tickets to give away to the Best of the Bay Area party, happening next Thursday June 26th. Dominic Phillips Event Marketing is producing the event—always a fun soiree for sure, and the best part: 100 percent of proceeds benefit Family House.

So, to enter to win this pair of tickets, just forward this newsletter to three pals (or more, thanks!) and cc (or BCC) luckyme [at] tablehopper [dot] com when you send it to your peeps—it's best if you explain why you're emailing it to them, or at least include something about tablehopper.com. I promise I won't be collecting your friends' emails, those will stay private—I just need to keep track that you forwarded it to three or more folks.The deadline to enter is by midnight, this Friday June 20th (I need to be able to mail the tickets to you in time). I will be randomly drawing the winner and will email you to let you know you've won over the weekend. Good luck!

And this week in the jetsetter, we have the second half of the Healdsburg installment: where to stay and play!

I also want to say how amazed I continue to be at the checks rolling in for the CHEFS/tablehopper benefit. You people are incredible. We’ve raised over $1,500 so far! Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Cheers my dears,
~Marcia

the chatterbox: June 17, 2008

Whoa, ~TOP CHEF~ is really over? Wednesdays just won’t be the same… but I certainly won’t miss Lisa’s “dead eye” and surly body posture at the judges’ table—bugged me every time. I was almost convinced Blaise was going to win it, but I’m so fired up that my second guess (and hope), Stephanie, ended up taking it home. There are a couple fun recaps out there of the final episode, including this one from the Cooking With the Single Guy Chef blog–his reference to Eric Ripert as Zeus had me howling. And then we have Frank Bruni in the Diner’s Journal who KILLED me with this observation, “…only “Top Chef” has Tom and Padma, who couldn’t be more perfectly matched. He: beefy and brooding, a rib-eye of a guy. She: languid and silky-voiced: a panna cotta of a gal. Together they almost make a meal.

“I wish Tom and the producers would get a little more creative with his threads, because hers are killer. He’s choking on her Gucci dust. It’s been said that restaurants are the new theater, but she proves that the dinner table is the new catwalk. Forget food-wine pairings. Frock-appetizer pairings are the trickier challenge, and she masters them.” Choking on her Gucci dust. Flawless, Frank.

I shall continue savoring, literally, the half-hour episodes of ~AFTER HOURS WITH DANIEL~ on MOJO (You know this show? It’s brilliant.) and just have to sit tight until Project Runway kicks in.

Enough with TV: let’s talk local eats. First, an update on the Bacchus Management Group’s Cow Hollow brasserie that’s developing slowly but surely in the Prego space. The name has finally been decided on, ~DES AMIS~. (Sorry not one of you who suggested names for the restaurant is going to Paris, but the Bacchus team thanks you all for the great name suggestions!) Also, Skye LaTorre, formerly a sommelier at A16, is joining the Bacchus team as a lead sommelier at des Amis. The opening is slated for fall. 2000 Union St. at Buchanan.

Over in Union Square, where Caffe Kuleto's used to be, will now be ~BAR NORCINI~, a new salumi, cheese, and wine bar (Caffe Kuleto’s and the Villa Florence’s lobby wine bar have been combined into one space). The name Norcini is Umbrian for “pork butcher”—chef Bob Helstrom of neighboring Kuleto’s is well known for his love of salumi-making, using pigs from Devil’s Gulch that are actually fed kitchen scraps from Kuleto’s. In the morning, Bar Norcini will serve Illy coffee and pastries, and then after closing for half an hour, lunch will bring panini, pizzettas topped with salumi, salads, and cheese. The evening means the menu goes back down to just pizzettas, salumi, and cheese. There will be some well-chosen Italian wines, and eight special cocktails, each featuring Italian liqueurs and ingredients. The soft opening is this week. 225 Powell St. at Geary.

The rumors are proving to be true that ~IL BUCO~ of New York will be opening a location in the 54 Mint Street space (formerly El Balazo). I’ve heard sightings of the owners recently visiting the space, although nothing has been confirmed. Their publicist says, “il Buco has no information to offer at this point.” Yes, but my sources do! This is getting exciting, because I know numerous folks who totally adore il Buco. Stand by…

Is it just me, or is the resurgence in all things Italian beginning to feel like the 1980s again? With all the salumi, wine, and artisanal cheese popping up everywhere, maybe it’s just Italia Fever 2.0.

24th Street is shaping up to become the new gourmet ghetto. This weekend I got word that handmade donuts and coffee from baker Sara Spearin and her husband Jonny Raglin of Absinthe are coming to the neighborhood. The 7x7 Bits + Bites blog broke the story yesterday about ~DYNAMO DONUT AND COFFEE~: the donuts are the creation of Sara, a pastry chef and avid baker for the past 20 years. Look for flavors like banana dulce de leche, and bacon-apple with maple glaze and caramel fleur de sel. Mmmm, bacon donuts. There will be five to six donuts available, and to go with them, it will not just be any coffee, but Four Barrel Coffee, yo. There will be a killer La Marzocco machine for espresso, a few single origin varietals available on drip, and French press for to-go. Look for this small walk-up kiosk to hopefully open in mid-July (permits and construction pending), and then as things roll out, the shop will be bigger, with additional American-style bakery items added to the line-up, like some breads, plus lunch items. There will also be a back patio! The space is the former home of La Torta Gorda, which has already moved one block down—Dynamo will be just next door to Casa Sanchez. Hours are tentatively 7am–5pm Mon–Sat, and opening possibly earlier (like 6am, depending on how things go). 2760 24th St. at Hampshire.

A few months ago I alluded to a new ice cream project happening on 24th Street—let’s break the lid off of that one too! Coming soon is an ice cream shop called ~HUMPHRY SLOCOMBE~, named after a character from the lowbrow British show Are You Being Served? (as the owner noted, not quite as lofty as the origin of Chez Panisse’s name, heh). Jake Godby, a local pastry chef whose background includes Candybar, Coi, Tartare, Fifth Floor for two years, and Boulevard for four, is calling this “ice cream for grownups,” with small batch, artisanal, and unusual flavors, like Secret Breakfast, a bourbon ice cream with caramelized corn flakes, a salted licorice flavor, and caramel ice cream with balsamic vinegar. Godby described the interior as a 1930s French café that has been remodeled in 1973, featuring eight stools from an old Woolworth’s counter, plus glass bricks, tile, and Formica. The opening is targeted for mid-August, and will be open Tue–Thu and Sun 11am–9pm, and Fri–Sat 11am–10pm, closed Mon. 2790A Harrison at 24th St.

In the Richmond, after three months of construction, Mamasan has been converted to ~HALU~, a tiny 25-seat non-sushi Japanese restaurant. I had a chance to talk with new owner Shigemi Komiyama over the weekend, who is partnering with his wife Mimi on the project—they just had their grand opening on Sunday. (Some may remember Shig from Yoshida-Ya—he was there 20 years ago). Mimi and Shig both went to cooking school in Yokohama for three years. HALU will feature ramen handmade by Mimi (five different types will be served), and will highlight an array of yakitori. The menu sounds delicious: upwards of 20 kinds of yakitori ($3.50–$5.50 for two skewers) will be available, including chicken wings, hearts, liver, thigh, and gizzard, plus bacon combos like enoki bacon or scallop bacon or asparagus bacon, beef tongue, kalbi, plus an array of vegetables and kushi katsu: deep fried skewers, like chicken with basil or stuffed mushroom, served with tonkatsu and karashi mayo sauces. There are also dishes like agedashi tofu, hiyayakko (cold tofu with ginger, green onion, bonito flakes, and dashi), chicken kara age, a variety of salads, lots of vegetarian dishes, some don/brown rice bowl dishes, and plenty of sake, beer, and shochu drinks. Don’t be surprised with the fun rock memorabilia, like the collection of vintage Fillmore posters—Shig was in Hot Tuna, and plays drums for the Shitones. Dinner to start. Rock. 312 8th Ave. at Clement, 415-221-9165.

Over in the Sunset, after 30 years of business, ~PJ’S OYSTERBED~ suddenly closed. No idea what happened—at least the rotting seafood that was left in the case was finally cleared out, as Eater noted (some not very nice “lagniappe” for the neighborhood in last week’s heat). 737 Irving St. at 8th Ave., 415-566-7775.

Another old-timer that has closed is ~LONDON WINE BAR~ in FiDi, which lost its lease after 35 years in business. Eater mentioned there might be a new location in the works in the Russian Hill/Polk Street area. Nope, not many wine bars there at all. 415 Sansome St. at Commercial.

If everything maps out correctly, opening tomorrow (Wednesday June 18th) is ~KASA INDIAN EATERY~ in the Stro. Here’s your chance to give a burrito a rest, and try a kati roll instead, one for $5.50, two for $8.95. You can check out the menu here. Open daily 11am–10pm. 4001 18th St. at Noe, 415-621-6940.

Another place to indulge in Indian treats: barring any snafus, ~AMBER INDIA~ in Yerba Buena Lane is due to open its doors this Saturday June 21st. The owner is Vijay Bist, who went to culinary school in India, and then trained in Baur au Lac, Switzerland; Excelsior, Germany; and France—he is working with chef Anish Potdar. The multi-level and 5,000-square-foot space will be open for lunch (Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm) and dinner daily (Sun–Thu 5pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–10:30pm), brunch on the weekend (Sat–Sun 12pm–3pm), and the lounge will be open and serving appetizers and bar bites daily, continuously from 11am–11pm, and until 11:30pm Fri–Sat. 13 Yerba Buena Lane, 415-777-0500.

Last week I mentioned the turnover of North Beach’s Palermo Deli into ~LA SPIAGGIA~. Now I can release more details about it since the deal is done: Nick Fasanella is running the joint. Many of you will remember him from Nick’s Crispy Tacos and Nicky’s Pizzeria Rustica on Polk Street. He has a variety of (lucky) 13 sandwiches, all named after beaches around the world. So the Amagansett will be a Niman Ranch roast beef sandwich, while the Marina Grande will be made with prosciutto di Parma and mozzarella. There are also sandwiches made with Niman Ranch porchetta (Nick is roasting his own meats), Willie Bird turkey, plus some East Coast combos, like meatball, chicken parm, and sausage and peppers. There’s even a vegetarian sando on the list, and PB&J for the kiddies. Here’s my favorite part: for $5, you can rent a beach chair and take it out to Washington Square Park while you enjoy your sandwich. If you want to kick at the (North) Beach all day, it’s $15. Open 10am–6pm daily. 1556 Stockton St. at Union, 415-362-DELI (3354).

More on the ~WASHBAG~: Once it reopens under the Tiernans, rumor has it Michael McCourt will be back behind the bar. 1707 Powell St. at Union.

The new executive chef of ~PLUMPJACK CAFÉ~, Rick Edge, has just rolled-out his new seasonal menu, which includes a return to the restaurant’s classic technique yet modern style of American dishes, like a puree of sweet corn soup with warm mushroom salad, smoked bacon, and crème fraîche ($9); Maine peekytoe crab cakes ($15); and yes, the big eye tuna tartare cones ($15) have returned. Mains include buttermilk-braised chicken breast ($22) with creamy polenta, Castroville artichokes, morel and maitake mushrooms; and red wine-braised beef short ribs with toasted farro, stone fruit salad, garden herbs, and flowers ($27), but some creative twists remain, like a carrot risotto with Idiazabal cheese, argan oil, and chive blossoms ($11/$20). In addition, he has added a “Power Lunch” section to the lunch menu, a selection of two-course paired menu items for those short on time. 3127 Fillmore St. at Filbert, 415-563-4755.


Talk about upping the ante: chef Thomas Keller will now be building a training facility next door to the French Laundry in Yountville for the ~BOCUSE D'OR~ team that ends up being selected to represent the U.S. From October–January, the team of chef and commis candidates will be housed in a private residence in Yountville, and will be compensated by Bocuse d’Or USA at a rate equivalent to compensation from their current employers. During this period, the team will work intensely with a chef coach in a kitchen custom-designed for Bocuse d’Or training to perfect their dishes for presentation in Lyon, France, when the USA team will compete at the Bocuse d’Or World Cuisine Contest in late January 2009. Does it get much better than that? Don’t think so. Candidates, you have until June 30th to apply at www.bocusedorusa.org.

Remember the ~OPEN SOIL RESTAURANT~ project I mentioned a few months ago? They have a new project called Open City: they are creating a menu for a temporary bistro using ingredients that have been grown, foraged, and crafted within the city limits of Oakland, Berkeley, and San Francisco. Their call for help is as follows: “If you are a gleaner, gardener, forager, or farmer and have produce that will be ready for harvest in late August, contact us at seed [at] openrestaurant [dot] org. Please tell your neighbors and friends.”

This Sunday June 21st, chef ~MARK SULLIVAN OF SPRUCE~ will be doing a demonstration on grilling at Williams-Sonoma as part of their guest series. Expect some seasonal and summer ingredients to be highlighted. The demo is from 12pm–2pm and is open to the public. It will be on the third level of Williams-Sonoma in Union Square, with seats set up for everyone and recipes provided for all of the dishes that he prepares. Mark will also be holding a Q&A at the end of the demo. 340 Post St. at Stockton, 415-362-9450.

According to a Chowhound, ~WILL'S VIETNAMESE~ in the Duboce/Church Street/Transfer bar triangle (or as I like to call it, “Upper Safeway”) is morphing into Jasmine Garden, also a Vietnamese restaurant. 708 14th St. at Church, 415-861-2682.

Over in the East Bay, former Chez Panisse pastry chef Charlene Reis (and wife to executive chef Paul Arenstam of Americano) is opening ~SUMMER KITCHEN BAKE SHOP~ on College Avenue in Berkeley in late 2008, just two doors down Ici, the ice cream shop from another Chez Panisse alum, Mary Canales. It will offer organic, specialty, to-go comfort-based foods for lunch and dinner, like simple long-cooked braises, stews, and sautéed fish that are meant to be shared family style; plus made-to-order Roman-style pizzas from the hearth oven, sandwiches and tartines, artisan cheeses and salumi, salads, house-made gourmet pantry staples, tarts, cakes, and cupcakes. The menu will change daily according to the seasons and will rely on small local farmers and artisans for organic produce, cheeses, breads and specialty items. The design will have a nostalgic beach house feel, and takes its name from the East Coast grand residences that had second buildings where cooking was done during the hot summer months, in order to keep the main residences cool. 2944 College Ave. at Ashby, 415-533-4012.

In downtown Oakland, ~CAFFE 817~, a small Italian caffe/enoteca, just started opening in the evenings as an Italian wine bar. The all-Italian wine list features 50 bottles from small boutique winemakers and is arranged to represent the 20 Italian wine regions. There are also 15 whites and 15 reds included in the list that are served by the glass or the quartino. There is also a selection of antipasti, cheese, salumi, and pasta dishes. Open Thu–Sat 5pm–10pm. 817 Washington St. at 8th St., Oakland, 510- 271-7965.

the jetsetter: Healdsburg, CA Part 2

And now we continue with part two of my ~HEALDSBURG~ recap. Last week was about where to eat and this week covers where to stay, and drink good wine. Cheers to that.

~WHERE TO STAY~



I was in hotel heaven at the ~HOTEL HEALDSBURG~—it’s modern and chic but still cozy, and there are all kinds of outdoor spaces for lingering, like the back patio, pool, and atrium areas, so it’s ideal for the warmer weather you get up there. There’s also a downstairs lounge area with comfy couches around a fireplace, and bingo: the hotel is located right on the Plaza. The rooms have clean contemporary styling, in soothing tones of green and sand, with heavy Venetian blinds, and fab feather beds. Enjoyed the super spacious bathrooms, which include deep soaking tubs and walk-in showers. Breakfast downstairs was quite the spread, with all kinds of egg dishes, lox and bagel fixins, and strong coffee.

Would be an ideal getaway space—it was tranquil, soothing, and there’s even a spa (I didn’t have a treatment, so can’t vouch for that part). They do some internet specials and packages (like a girls getaway), so hop online and see.

Hotel Healdsburg
Rates $260–$820





You want to really do it up? Got a big special occasion you want to celebrate right? I can’t think of a dreamier place to stay than the ~LES MARS HOTEL~. It’s like being in Europe, with such exquisite and personal hospitality, but it never feels stuffy or uncomfortable. You can almost pretend you’re staying at your very wealthy friend’s manse (a girl can dream, can’t she?) It’s no mistake this is a Relais & Chateaux property, and how convenient, Cyrus is just downstairs. If you have the ducats, this is the place to go for an overnighter, or weekend. I’m talking four-poster beds, a cloud of down pillows and comforters, and the Italian Versai linens that will make you hate anything you sleep on at home. Bathrooms are outfitted in marble, and Bulgari products. Luxe, baby.

I was obsessed with the authentic antiques throughout, especially the floral chandeliers and sconces, and wait until you see the woodwork in the room where breakfast is hosted—stunning craftsmanship. Our three-course breakfast consisted of Greek yogurt with fresh fruit, pumpkin pecan pancakes with chicken apple sausage, and a petite herb and cheese omelette. You’re set to go wine tasting all day after a breakfast like that. The wine and cheese reception in the lobby is no slouch either, mamma mia. The entire experience here is thoughtful, memorable, and pure quality.

Les Mars Hotel
Rates $475–$1050





There is also the B&B option, which can be personal, charming, and quite a bit more budget friendly. One place I tried was the ~IRISH ROSE INN~, on Dry Creek Road, a wee bit out of town and nestled closer to the peace and calm of the vineyards. It has two rooms and a cottage, which also looks darling. I stayed in “Michael’s Room” in the main house, with a super-comfy king size bed (great mattress) and my room was delightfully devoid of any dolls or bric-a-brac. I dug my sunny and private bathroom, and the view of the vineyard out back. Chris the innkeeper was super friendly, and made an awesome breakfast soufflé with bacon, plus fresh fruit and bagels.

Irish Rose Inn
Rates $160–$200





Now, the ~CAMELLIA INN~ is what veers more into the classic B&B girlie styling, but wow, what a building! It’s an 1869 Italianate Victorian inn that is walking distance from the Plaza. Most of the rooms would freak guys out with all the floral wallpaper, lacy canopies, and pink. And some of the furnishings felt a little tired. But it’s also the home of a super-budget secret: a simple double room for $119–$129 (there’s just a little lace on the curtains, that’s all!). The bathroom is a quick step across the hall, but it’s private and has an awesome tub. Personally, I’d rather stay in a cool historic building like this than some modern chain hotel any day, especially for that price. You can see pics of all the rooms in the virtual tour on the site.

Breakfast was a simple spread of scrambled eggs, plus ham, and a homemade pear tart. Nice folks running the place. And there’s a pool out back. I also had a good run along Matheson, a wide winding road with no winos driving on it.

Camellia Inn
Rates $119–$249



At this point you can head back to your hotel, relax, walk around the Plaza, and get ready for dinner.

Dry Creek:

Here are some ideas of wineries to visit for a full day—add or subtract based on what kind of a day you want, leisurely or turbo:

After breakfast, head out on Dry Creek Road and visit ~DRY CREEK VINEYARD~ (I’m a big fan of their dry chenin blanc, and fully loaded heritage zinfandel—see what they have in the handy 375ml bottle size, perfect for the single boy or girl!) Open daily 10:30am–4:30pm. There is a $5 per person fee for tasting their signature wines, and $10 per person fee for tasting their single-vineyard wines—be sure visit their site for a two-for-one coupon.

Then keep on trucking and head over to ~UNTI VINEYARDS~ for your appointment. This small producer is one of my very faves in the area—Mick Unti and his dad George do a wonderful job with Italian varietals (I heart their barbera) and try their Segromigno blend. This is a can’t-miss experience, and make some room in your trunk. Thank me later.





You’ve been spitting, right? Right. Just a tiny bit further down the road on the right is ~PAPAPIETRO PERRY~, home of some oh-so-drinkable pinots, and zins, too. (Their first release was in 1998.) This place was the pinot oasis, there are nine total plus one zin; the tasting room is tucked in with some other wineries, so don’t worry, you’re in the right place. The tasting fee is $5, hours are 11am–4:30pm daily. Have fun chatting with Barney, who is in the tasting room Thu–Sat.



Okay you little wine warrior, at this point you could cruise up to Canyon Road, hang a right, and then cruise a bit south on 128 for a heavenly lunch at Santi in Geyserville. (See my other issue for details on this delicious restaurant.)





Or perhaps you packed a picnic? In that case I’d keep on cruising north and go to ~PRESTON~ to eat on the picnic tables on their charming grounds, complete with happy cats lounging in the sun. This family-owned winery has been around since 1973, is certified organic, and totally rocked me with their barbera, and the L. Preston Rhone-style blend. The cinsault is nice to have slightly chilled (ideal for picnics), and on Sundays they have Guadagni Red, a jug wine that is a new blend each year; it’s $32 for a three-liter jug (ruh roh) and only available at the winery on Sundays. They also have olive oil (buono!) and cured olives. The tasting room is open 11am–4:30pm daily.
 $5 tasting fee, refundable with wine purchase.





Just a bit more up the road from Preston is ~BELLA~—and it totally lives up to its name: the well-maintained grounds are breathtaking. Head into the cave to taste some luscious single vineyard zins (there are three vineyards total), two syrahs, a cab-zin blend, and a late-picked zinfandel. $5 tasting fee. The tasting room is open 11am–4:30 daily.


Back down West Dry Creek Road are two gems: first there is ~QUIVIRA~, where you can learn all about biodynamic winemaking, and taste their award-winning zinfandels and sauvignon blancs. Tasting fee $5 (waived with purchase). Open daily 11am–5pm.





If you cruise down Wine Creek Road, and if you were a good planner and made an appointment, there’s ~MICHEL-SCHLUMBERGER~. What a find—wait until you try their cabs. (Can you say “reserve”?) They offer a wine tasting and a 30-minute tour of the estate to guests at 11am or 2pm daily, or a vertical tasting of library wines, an artisan cheese and wine pairing Fri–Sun, and a "Green" tour and hillside tasting in the morning Thu–Sat—all by appointment only, prices vary. This is a great place to “go deeper” and check things out if you have the time. Read more here.





Heading east on Alexander Valley Road, a visit to ~JORDAN WINERY~